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Found 51 results

  1. Morning All, I have Listed on the BST , the above Exhaust. For those that don't Venture to the Classifieds. These are not available any more , as far as I know. Great looking Exhaust in Black Paint, Good Weight to each Piece. Quite Exotic, maybe just what you were looking for, or didn't know you were looking for !! Conrad.
  2. Hi, After doing some searches here regarding fitting a Phoenix Super Sports Exhaust, I've found a few mentions of poor fitment of the single tube from manifold to rear box, and wanted some current observations from those that have fitted this exhaust. I am running what appears to be a Rimmers twin box system at the moment, and really want to have a more standard look, but also like the idea of the upgrade in terms of the original exhaust, with bigger bore and stainless. Many thanks Gareth
  3. I hope this doesn't upset anybody putting this item on the 6 forum, just wanted to get it out were it would be seen I have a full set of pipes and manifold, good condition, stainless steel, no jubilee fittings, for sale, can deliver to the triumph and mg day in February 250 pounds
  4. Dear Experienced and Knowledgeable, Following my success with very tangled PI problems solved from advices gratefully learned from the Forum, I have now another concerning the car's exhaust. It is fitted with a stainless 6-2-1 arrangement at the manifold end and a mild steel SINGLE long pipe -about 2"o.d. - to a transverse end box. This mild steel rear box is now totally blown.. Actually I went and bought a correct (two-inlet) box from Rimmers before realizing that it cannot fit. There is a single-inlet rear box listed by Rimmer made for the TR5, which it appears could be a replacement, but I do not know if this would be correct enough. I would value members' opinions. There is a custom exhaust firm fairly near to me in Hastings and I think they could make something up, if thought necessary. It is a shame to have the car off the road for days over such a slight matter of course! Many thanks in advance. Mark.
  5. Farly6

    Petrol Smell!

    I have been trying to sort out this issue for ever and getting no where fast! So I'm appealing for help. I have tried to find a discussion forum about this but cant.. so here goes. I am the owner of a late model UK CR TR6, which has standard fuel injection and a fast road cam. It has the twin tail pipe sports exhaust. The problem is that the boot is constantly smells of petrol. Its so bad that you cant really put bags in the boot. I have replaced many of the pipes around the Bosch fuel injection pump, fitted proper petrol pipes and petrol clips and the seals in the tap in the bottom of the fuel tank. So I'm wondering what I should do next, I thought it could be replace the exhaust to a Phoenix Big Bore exhaust system which will over come the exhaust fumes into the cockpit etc. or alternatives change the fuel tank. or both... Thought comments would be greatly appreciated. Am I missing something?
  6. Just wondered if anyone here was interested in doing a comparison test between using Header Wrap and Ceramic Coatings. I ask as I will be fitting a new set of Stainless Manifolds over the winter, and have to decide if I Wrap them or try Ceramic Coating. Now I know that the choice is a bit like Marmite, people either love one and hate the other. I'm not out to convince anyone either way, or actually start a long debate about why people think one is better and for what reasons. What I'm actually interested in is getting some real test results as I can find no actual comparisons on the web, well I can but they are either totally subjective and of the I think its much better now I have spent $300, or they are the sudo manufacturer tests where they make impressive claims, but with nothing other than bare metal as a comparison, or use some weird radiant heat measured a few inches away from the manifold. So I though there must be enough of us on this forum with ceramic and wrap that we could set up a test something like running engine for 20 mins and then taking surface temperature readings at a few designated spots, and then producing a table of the results. Not hugely scientific but better than anything I can find. Anyone interested? Alan
  7. I am currently fitting a Moss Tourist Trophy exhaust system to my 1974 Tr6 (with overdrive). The system is similar in design to the standard exhaust with cross box at the rear. The removed exhaust system did not have a support fitted at the gearbox. I intend fitting the 'standard exhaust' hanging system which clamps the two pipes between an upper and lower plate which then attaches to the gearbox via a 'support strap ' part number UKC878. Can anyone please advise where on the gearbox/ overdrive does the support strap attach. Regards Alan
  8. Thought a few techies might be interested in the following pictures to have a guess at cause. As you can see all the exhaust valves stems have a very light white coating. A few clues to help you on your way. All 6 are identical, the plug colours (as much as you can tell with modern fuel) are in the nice mid brown shade. I run permanent AFR logging on both banks of cylinders, they never go lean, apart from at gentle cruise (no load) say 2-2.5K when I allow the AFR's to hover in the 15-16 band. About 1300 miles since last winters light rebuild, new shells, new rings, cleaned and relapped valves, they are stainless. Slight damp black oil on back of inlet valve heads (so a tiny bit of stem leak even with stem seals fitted. Compression test a few weeks ago all were just about even, but about 15psi down on what I expected, Leak down test gave very good results for road engine, but a tad lower than I would have liked hence head coming off for a check and relap. I have never seen valve stems & heads quite that white, normally at season rebuild they have a similar but tan coloured deposit. The only difference being that this engine last ran fast idling for an hour or two a couple of weeks ago whilst taking manifold temperatures. Alan
  9. A TR4A friend has suffered a crack/split in his cast manifold. Is it possible to weld or should he look for a replacement? If anybody has a spare available please PM me. Thanks Mike
  10. The current exhaust system is getting a bit long in the tooth. Bought from TrShop in the late 90,s it's a two box standard system on the standard cast manifold. It has never fitted very well and is getting noisy. What would people recommend as a quality replacement? Cheers Iain
  11. FULL KIT .... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/352062397035?
  12. Hello all... Let's try to keep this to ourselves (I don't want those Peerless guys getting wind of this) I've started restoring a 1960 3A I know, SPLITTER! I'm just asking in case there's a good resource/cheat sheet of 'sensible/practical modifications' for people doing a complete nut and bolt rebuild. Does anything want strengthening/beefing up/adding/cutting off (I'm talking about the car) etc on either the body/chassis ? Are there any well known weaknesses or failings (I'm talking about the TR...) that can be improved upon without spoiling the originality (noticeably)? (I'm certainly thinking about the rear crank rubber oil seal mod as no one would ever know except the people I get my driveway cleaning fluid from...) My chassis has already been powder coated (that was already done) and I intend to get the endoscope into the chassis tubes to preclude any nasty surprises later but now's the time to make any mods if any are necessary. I'm not aiming for bloody minded 100% originality to the absolute exclusion of every day practicality but I don't want to be adding ABS and IOBD2 either. The car will be used virtually every day in the same way I used my Warwicks/Peerlii in the past so it's got to be reliable and reasonably usable in modern conditions (i.e. crawling along at 2mph 50% of the time and having the suspension battered to death by 4" deep pot holes the other 50%. Once any modifications and repairs to the body/chassis are complete, my first job will be mounting the (etch primed) body on the chassis so that all the paint prep work can be carried out and panel gaps sorted. So for instance..... Where do I buy (or do I make) the best possible body mounting kit? I've seen talk on here of the old fabric impregnated rubbers being better, if this is true does anyone sell them? I'm sure I will have a million questions but I'll try to ask some of you in person as I look around all the 3A's at Malvern this year... Thank you for reading this far and if you have any comments that will be a great bonus! Jon
  13. Greetings from the states...and my apologies if this subject has been beaten to death on this site. I am considering a sports exhaust purchase for my USA spec, stock carbed 74 TR6. I would like a stainless twin "box" type and am considering the Bell, Double S (TRshops), rimmer bros. predator styling brand or scparts limited (they make their own). Anyone have them installed on their car? too loud? bad fitment? fumes? On this side of the pond most systems offered are Monza, Falcon...very limited use Bell. I have not been able to get opinions on the UK brands listed above. They are actually less expensive to buy and shipped here than to purchase a system over here. Thx Cliff
  14. Olde Starts on the Button Olde Purrs Like a Kitten Olde Roars Like a Lion Olde Great Oil Pressure Olde No Smoke (honest) Olde no Oil Leaks Olde Good Water Temps Olde Bombed it Round the M25 Olde BMW Basher Olde Boomin Northern Soul on the Stereo Olde (lights even works in the dark!) Olde Maybe I Should Change my Mind? Olde Worth At Least £1/2m Well done gents. Another victory to strike up for 'TR Forum Restorations Ltd - No Challenge Is Too Hard'
  15. Hi folks First post here having recently acquired a 1971 CP engine TR6. Got a few jobs to tackle but would like to fit a twin tailpipe (wheelbarrow) SS exhaust system and like the look of the Revington TR system as it is designed to provide maximum ground clearance (my TR seems quite low compared to others) - but it is several hundred pounds more expensive than equivalent exhausts from other suppliers. Anybody have any experience with this system - quality, ease of fitting etc -and whether it's worth the extra? Also - difficult question I know as it's very subjective but what does it do to the exhaust note compared to the standard configuration (the sound of which I like)? cheers Tim
  16. Can someone identify what exhaust system I have on my car? I thought it was a Phoenix system but would like confirmation. As part of the RBRR preparation I thought it would be wise to check underneath so my local garage obliged. The exhaust is clearly blowing at the front joints and the PO has made some interesting adaptations to prevent it rattling through the chassis - although I suspect that this is encouraging leaky joints! It is stainless steel and 4 manifold pipes come down from the engine to a short collector which is held to the manifold with two "fins" which are bolted together (picture ). You can feel that this is blowing but there is no sealant that I can see. Presumably because there has to be some movement somewhere! This collector then joins the pipe back to the first silencer box and on to the second. (I suspect at least some of the system is bespoke). Contemplating 48 hours in a "fume cabinet" isn't appealing and so can you gurus recommend a sealant that is flexible enough to seal the front collector thingy but resilient enough to survive the high temperatures at the front of the system?
  17. I require advice or recommendations on what stainless exhaust to fit. I wish to replace my cross box with a twin box as I like the look of twin pipes. I do not want a sports straight thru as they are too noisy for me however I would like a bit more 'throaty ' than the cross box. The standard twin box arrangement seems to come complete with a third front box which I would have thought would make it very 'quiet'? Any advice would be much appreciated. Also any thoughts on best supplier. Rimmer is about £415 where as Ebay is about £250 which is a big difference.
  18. Hi there Bit of a mix of topics here! I'm about to change the silencer on my TR5. The current box has a hole blown in it. Fortunately I was given a new spare mild steel box when I bought the car so am fitting that while I decide whether to undertake a body off repaint and other work, maybe a stainless exhaust. For the current situation can anyone guide me as to the best (original?) clamping method where the mild steel tail pipes joins the middle section of the system eg standard U clamp, single clamp etc and where to buy (if unusual item)? Also looking to replace the radio and want to stick with a period or period looking set (Radiomobile, Motorola etc), but want FM ideally - does anyone have any experience of the old sets that have been converted to receive FM etc etc? I'm not interested in cassette players. Thanks David
  19. Bang-bang, two at a time. Will be fairly competitive http://www.ebay.com/itm/262449904286?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  20. I have been trying to fit my TR Shop / Phoenix exhaust system without success. It contains a Phoenix extractor – fitted OK, a short step down pipe that follows the chassis line OK (ish) and stops just short of the cruciform ......and then two pipes with silencers, first a long and then short. I can get it so that the second (longer) pipe exits the cruciform pretty central, as shown in the pics. But then it heads off in the direction of the rear chassis on the passenger side, such that the second (rearmost) silencer clashes with the chassis big time, as in overlaps. Does anyone have a pic of the same system installed ? It seems as if there is a kink missing in the first (longer) pipe about 6 inches after the cruciform that would have turned the remainder of the system more rearward than sideways (position about alongside the closest end of the rubber map in the pic below). Also, the two boxes sit straight ‘in-line’, ie, there is no bend between them. There is ample space between the exhaust and diff such that if it were to turn more centrally by up to 2” at the rear of the first longer box then it might solve the issue. I appreciate that on these cars some fettling is required, but I have asked all the neighbours and none of them have an exhaust system mandrel bending widget and jig on them. Is this degree of modification expected? It seems as if this system were designed for a much wider car ? My dream of getting this freekin car running seems to go one step forwards and 3 back ! A supposedly simple bracket and exhaust fitting job has left me with a car with no seats, carpets, tunnel.
  21. Gents, i am fitting my twin box exhaust (well trying) - a challenge single handed with a car only on short ramps ! The pipes fit very very snuggly and i will be using Mikalor clamps. Is exhaust paste necessary? I appreciate that it Is designed to set by heat, but applying paste and trying to fit the pipes, then jiggle around take in out jiggle again etc etc, I am guessing the paste will turn dry and powdery long before the engine is run some time in the future. Cheers
  22. Hi - looking for some views on TR6 exhaust. Bit of background first. I've got a 1975 TR6 which I've had for the last 25 years. It was restored about 15 years ago - lot's of panels replaced, TRGB restored the engine and converted to unleaded, reconditioned gearbox, stainless exhaust, overdrive, GAZ rear shock conversion yada yada.....It's now in fine condition, can be used whenever and looks great. As ever there are a list of jobs to be done - but that's part of the fun! But - this is the only 6 I've ever driven! A friend has just bought his second - a well sorted early model which has had a few upgrades including a full Phoenix big bore system. He's retained the original lever arm rear suspension and driving the car has reminded me of some of the charachter that's been dialled out with the conversion - so I am changing mine back. The car already has polybushes done so I reckon this should be a perfect combo. I'm not into ragging the 6 - just want to continue to enjoy the experience. So here's the question I'd appreciate your views on. The full system Phoenix system (with original looking tailpipe) sounded fabulous, helped with the odd pop and bang from time to time. I don't need the performance increase and don't really want the hassle of changing the full system so will the Pheonix exhaust mounted to standard manifold give the same sound experience? Any views appreciated - thanks.
  23. Hi. Anyone have the 6-1 extractor manifold and single big bore exhaust system fitted who would be willing to let me come and have a look? I'm particularly interested in why the original linkage can not be used and also have a listen. I'm based in Swindon, Wiltshire.
  24. Well the full system is off the car at last. Ironically the main pipe and silencer were very well sealed rear of the collector - no need for springs as they were jammed together and took 3-4 hours of bashing and heating to get the three sections apart. No blockages in the system - indeed, a clear 55mm dia hole (58 pipes) all the way. Lots of black soot in there tho. One small L shape hole (5-8mm) in the bottom of the section of pipe just before the cruciform - but surely not enough to explain the strong fumes and the fact that the engine bay is sooty? 3 of the 4 extractor pipes were a snug fit in the collector and one slightly loose but not gaping. In any respect I would have thought that the air flowing from the other 3 would drag the gases rearwards ? All very odd ? So the mystery of the sooty bay and tubes continues - I am hoping that this may be down to extraordinarily rich running and that when rebuilt, the carbs will be sending much cleaner fumes down the (replacement bastuck) system. As a reminder, in addition to the sooty engine bay, in slow or stationary traffic there would be exhaust gas in the engine bay and cabin and for several days after a run one's nose would smell nowt but exhaust gases ! (despite the gaskets appearing to be intact and tight ???? Found out where the old exhaust was manufactured. Not sure they do refunds !
  25. I know Peter W has one, but anyone else any experience of Bastuck exhausts. The reason is that they do a 'sports' extractor and twin box system for the 3a that has a constant dia (rather than a Phoenix then step down to standard twin box that seems to the be the only UK retail option?) ....and its way way cheaper than in M...... I am not sure if the step down is an issue, but I just like the idea of a constant dia ? Cheers
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