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  1. Hello, not strictly technical................ I am flogging a couple of old Bosch lights on Fleabay and there is interest from Japan, initial search brings up costs in excess of £200, with additional packaging the parcel will weigh in at 4kg and be around 600mm x 400mm x400mm, can anyone help?, cheers, Andrew
  2. A Coil Conundrum ! I've had this original Lucas red coil for some time with the thought it might make a good spare for travelling etc. Problem is I'm not completely certain about its suitability for a CR TR6. The label says "for use only with 0.9- 1.25 Ohm ballast" and I'm unsure what ballast a CR TR6 loom comes with - could someone advise please? It also claims to be a "12v High Energy Power Coil" and on a CR TR it will only see 12v for the start-up, then approx 8-9v I think when running. I've measured the primary resistance and it reads 2.3 Ohm, thats pretty much half wa
  3. kcsun

    Alternator

    What is the expected voltage from an alternator?? The ignition light goes out on my car and the voltmeter on the dash slowly creeps up to just over 13, checked with a digital meter on the battery terminals and depending on revs the meter only goes up to 13.5 ish volts? kc
  4. I've seen a few posts over the past year of folks, like myself, looking for a wiring diagram for CR cars. Usually we get (well intentioned-ly) sent toward the advance autowire link that seems to have diagrams for every TR5/6...except ours. I managed to get pdf of a pdf of a copy of a scan... that I've tidied up into a colour wire diagram to mimic these. I originally formatted at A3 on PPT and converted to pdf which seemed to magically transform it to A4, but it should blow up ok. There are some bits for German market cars I've left out for simplicity (extra rear lights & hazard l
  5. A question for any of the electrical experts out there ....... My TR6 alternator is simply marked as 14v 45A A115 type (it has a Lucas Electrik sticker with 24 026 on it). The concern is I'm only seeing 13v across the battery terminals at tickover, and only 13.8v when revved harder. If I turn the headlamps on the voltage drops back towards 13v again. I think this is 1v less than it should be, doesn't sound much difference I know but the battery isn't that old and I'm having to separately charge it. The alternator is under 2yrs old btw. Has anyone taken an alternator volta
  6. Hi All Was going to pop my refurbished washer bottle back on my resto project. Looks nice and clean with repainted bracket and home made strap. Cleaned all the motor up before giving it a test and err dead. So should it work by just connecting to a 12v, i would assume it would, but no. Completly disasambled it and it looks fine to me and the motor spins freely when the shaft is spun, but clearly i know nothing. So any tricks to get and old electric motor such as this kicked into life? I've had a look at the usual retail suspencts and this type of motor (see pic) see
  7. Since I wrote about wiper-motors in TR-Action it's probably no secret that I rebuild the early Lucas wiper-motors. About 10% of those that come my way have a problem with the armature. This is not a problem with the DR2 type, because I have a good stock of new armatures for these, left over from other activity. Ask if you need one. But the more common DR3A type armatures are a problem to get. Now and again I get lucky and find one for £20. Sometimes I get forced to pay £40-50. This really makes a motor rebuild uneconomic. Even if I find an NOS one there is no guarantee it wi
  8. I thought it would be useful to post some words and pictures on how I recently fitted LED strip lights to vastly improve the illumination in my boot. Hopefully the pictures tell the story, but here are some points to note: The c.45 degree edge on the boot frame provides an ideal mounting point for self-adhesive LED strips 30cm long as the angle means they flood the boot with light when the boot is open. I used red heatshrink to protect and camouflage the wiring to the LEDs. The wires are fed into the space behind the boot card by using the boot hinge assemblies and connected
  9. I see there have been a few posts recently around this area so apologies but given the consequences of me getting this wrong I wanted an unambiguous thread. When I ordered my new wiring loom for BUO, CP series TR6, I spec'd an upgraded relay fed supply for the fuel pump, and feed for electric fan. All good I thought .............no the fuel pump and fan feeds were taken directly from the back of the starter motor ie the non load side of the ammeter so if it (the ammeter) was of any use when it was fitted to the car in '72 it not doing much good now. I'm planning to pull my cur
  10. Just thought I would share some information regarding voltage stabilisers. Both Moss and Rimmers specify the part number 128484 for both TR4 and TR4A. However this stabiliser is for positive earth only vehicles (i.e. original TR4 spec). As such they will not work on the TR4A. Instead you should fit the TR5 unit part number 148876A which is for negative earth cars (TR4A and later). This is because these later units have solid state internals and need to be connected with correct polarity. The original stabilisers had a bimetal strip with a heating wire coiled around it. Voltage was regulate
  11. Have started to install the dashboard and instruments on the 5 and have got to the rheostat. The hexagonal 'driveshaft' has a sprung button on it as do all the other controls of that type but the black control knob does not have a hole for the button to spring into. Is that normal and if so is there any benefit in drilling a hole. Obviously there is no 'pull' action on the rheostat as with the other control knobs? Many thanks, Tim
  12. I want to replace many of the corroded bullet connectors, but is there a tool in the market place that will also crimp the wire insulation like the originals were done? I have seen the tool in Vehicle wiring products, 4 sided crimp, but it would seem it doesn't crimp on the insulation as well. I know there are special bullets for crimping, where is the best source of these? John
  13. Another question! Installed the new wiring harness, supplied by AutoSparks, and am now slowly connecting up. Have now realised that having asked for "the standard primary wiring harness and standard secondary harnesses for gearbox, overdrive" , and emphasised in writing that the car does have overdrive, the loom has nothing for gearbox and overdrive. I assumed that this would have been part of the main harness - am I wrong - is it supplied as a separate harness and not integral with the main harness? Your views welcomed as usual. Thanks, Tim
  14. Can any one confirm or deny the truth in this listing please. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-XK120-XK140-WIPER-MOTOR-NEW-ORIGINAL-3-SPEED-WORKS-Triumph-TR3-TR3A/232133465815?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 If it's true, I'll make 'em available to anyone making a works replica. Its not right for an XK120 or 140 probably. But this guy is a Triumph restorer so maybe he knows.
  15. Can someone help with a fuse rating. I have a relay for the two front spot lamps. The relay takes a signal from the high beam feed and then connects main power. The fuse has gone missing and I am not sure what rating would be correct. It is a coloured blade fuse. I have a card of different coloured blade fuses but can not see a rating on the individual fuses. I need to know the rating and the colour if significant. Thanks Richard & B.
  16. Does anybody have clear wiring diagram for a 5 please? Many thanks, Tim
  17. This fault was new to me, the engine wasn't running well, so I tried tuning carbs and ignition and checked the plugs. I didn't get any result and it seemed that it ran even worse after checking the plugs. This continued until I finally discovered that the brass insert in the cap, of one of the caps, was stuck on the plug. Checking the other caps showed that 3 out of 4 brass connectors were loose. Substituted them for considerably more expensive caps and the engine is now running as it should. So, advice to myself, stop buying cheap stuff!
  18. Hi Troops - a quick question that I hope you can help with. My temperature gauge has been over-reading for some while and I ordered a new 85 degree temperature switch from RS Components. The packet has arrived and it states 100 degrees and 100 is printed on the switch itself. I've been on the 'chatline' to RS and it appears there is an error on their website specification for this item (it clearly states 85 degrees). RS components don''t have 85 degrees, they do have 75 degrees. I'm obviously no techie so not sure what to do? Any advice very much appreciated as always.
  19. Keith66

    Headlights

    Hi All Looking at making the switch from std bulbs to LED’s and looking for some views and feedback. No issue for the interior and the exterior bulbs like indicators brakes etc, but unsure about headlights. My car currently still has the original type sealed beam units and I know they are not great so I do want to upgrade, but a few choices so I thought I’d ask for some feedback from those who have the diff options fitted. First and simplest would be to upgrade to Halogen units but does it enough improvement. Secondly Xenons, my understanding is that fitting Xenons alt
  20. A well known register member passed a DR3A wiper motor to me recently. It's got a 130 degree gear-wheel and came from a TR3A most likely. It ran OK, but took more current than they should do, indicating it was a bit stiff. It always amazes me how well these have stood up and I've yet to see one that is beyond repair. But there are a couple of common failures and so here I dismantle this and show how to restore and improve these. It came looking like this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/12569961143/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/12569960223/ There is a
  21. Hi all Im trying to source some cibie headlights. Looking at past threads 082441 seems to be the right part number but it seems they are no longer available. Ive ordered a couple of times only to find the order cancelled because they cant get hold of them. Ive got them on my TR4 and looking for some for my GT6. Any help appreciated. regards Bob
  22. This topic has been prompted by wiper-brush kits becoming available on eBay for much lower prices than hitherto, £12 as against £25 or more. And I bought a DR2 from 1958 with the classic destroyed commutator, caused by running with worn-out brushes. A few years back I'd have to store a motor like this until a new armature turned up. Both DR2 and DR3A wiper-motors will run to destruction without carbon-brushes. This one was running OK, if a bit squeaky. Then I bought some commutators from the US and could fix them. But after shipping, import cost and VAT these worked out to c
  23. Hi all, went to the garage to start the car and it won't start! It is a 73 PI CR engine with a Luminition system which I fitted 5 years ago and has worked perfectly until now. I turn the ignition on and there is 12v at the coil, I then start churning the starter motor and the voltage at the coil drops to about 9 - 9.5v. The engine does not fire, when I release the ignition switch the engine fires on the release and tries to start???? If it fires successfully the engine runs OK. I do not think there is any spark while the starter is churning but is a bit difficult to see as I have only one
  24. More electrical gremlins on my 73 cr tr6! My horns stopped working and I found the fuse -35 Amp had blown. I replaced this and all was well. I checked for any obvious wiring issues and found none. On taking car for MOT I checked horn on the way and found fuse had gone again! I replaced fuse just before reaching the MOT station and it lasted for the test however by the time I got home the fuse had gone again! This fuse covers the horns,all interior lights and the headlamp flasher. All bulbs on interior lights (underdash, boot) are not fitted at the moment. the glove box bulb operated
  25. Hi, Just wondering if anybody could point me in the right direction to buy a coloured wiring diagram for my TR7 1981 UK car. I have unfortunately tried to use the many websites that advertise TR7 wiring diagrams under google images , but most if not all turn out to be scams looking for payment card details and hidden monthly subscriptions. Very frustrating for your average classic car enthusiast. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks in Advance Paul
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