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Found 404 results

  1. The indicators have stopped working on my 1974 TR6 can you please give me some advice on how to troubleshoot this. The flasher unit looks new - its round not oblong, but of course that doesn't mean it is working. I also dont know if this is important but when I tried the indicators in the garage there was a click on the passenger side behind the dash and then nothing. It hasnt done this again turning the ignition switch on and off. The fuse is ok. Could a blown bulb cause the problem? I'm not an electrician but I know how to use an ammeter and follow basic instructions. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Rob
  2. Since I wrote about wiper-motors in TR-Action it's probably no secret that I rebuild the early Lucas wiper-motors. About 10% of those that come my way have a problem with the armature. This is not a problem with the DR2 type, because I have a good stock of new armatures for these, left over from other activity. Ask if you need one. But the more common DR3A type armatures are a problem to get. Now and again I get lucky and find one for £20. Sometimes I get forced to pay £40-50. This really makes a motor rebuild uneconomic. Even if I find an NOS one there is no guarantee it will be in good shape. Often they have rusty shafts and other corrosion, having sat too long in damp packaging. Anybody on here who finds he has a commutator ploughed up by the brush arms, will be in the same position as me. Except I'll be on eBay bidding too. Apart from damage from being run with worn brushes, there is the dreaded "black-wire" problem. Here is one I fixed recently for a Register member: This happens if they are powered up, but stalled or jammed for any reason. At least 10A will flow and the temperature gets high enough to melt the solder joints. You can see this on one of the tags. This is the inside of the motor. You can see the witness left by evaporated varnish: Armatures like this continue to run. May do so so for quite a while. Annual MOT and running about to summer shows and you'd be OK, most likely. But one dark wet night on the motorway and after running hot for a few hours, don't bet on it. I DON'T SELL THESE. No doubt many others on eBay would. Be careful ! So I have a dozen laying about and a worsening supply problem. I asked every motor rewinding-shop I could find, to quote for rewinding them. NOT ONE REPLIED. I am rather glad they didn't bother. The reason is that they know what I now know. It's not just the wire. The copper commutator-segments are moulded into the phenolic bush. This is probably the hottest spot. When you strip one down this happens: This is probably a more likely cause of terminal failure than the wire. A segment gets loose, catches the brush and game over. Rewinds are POINTLESS on these, unless you fit a new commutator. Nobody has these, which is why nobody would quote me. To be fair I asked in the RFQ for new commutators, just to shut out the rogues. I thought about making new commutators. I'd do this if I just wanted one, maybe! I considered other things like nicking them from DR2's. These are not exactly the same but close. I could get them off but I'd scrap the shaft. It would mean lathe-work and this would be slow. Then I found these: New, not identical, but very close. They would be cheap too, were it not for shipping, VAT, customs-handling etc. i took a £100 punt and got ten. All the ploughed up commutators got fixed in an afternoon. Four perfectly serviceable armatures from the scrap heap, economic even if I count labour at a commercial rate. Brilliant! Now then, what to with the black-wire ones? You can all guess what comes next I expect.
  3. I've been busy the last couple of days re modelling my TR6 loud speaker pods. I had bought and fitted Moss supplied pods at least 20 years ago with locally supplied Alpine speakers. Many years of activity, (you don't have to ask!) had taken the toll on the integrity of the hardboard backbone as highlighted in the attached photo. They also had a mind of their own and often fell down into the footwell. The used of cable ties and gaffa tape to hold them in place was never pretty. My wife bought me a Stanley staple gun for my birthday in August, and naturally I knew exactly where it was going to be used first. I have remodelled a pair but with thought for robustness and price. I have used 5mm plywood from B&Q and resourced off cuts of vinyl and a combination of 1" and 0.5" foam to suit from 'Thames Upholstery' here in Southend on Sea, Essex very generously given to me at zero cost! I used the original hardboard as a template, out came my hardly used jigsaw and copies were made. Everything else more or less fell into place, and as you can see from the photos, job done! The sound from these speakers was never that great with a distinct lack of bass as there is no baffle. However the rigid construction of these new pods has helped the sound to a small degree. They were a little tricky to get into place as the plywood does not offer much flexibility, but where there is a will, there is a way! So for the cost of less than £10 I'm very pleased with the end result. Only one downside, the 20 year speaker covers are not like new, oh yes there's always Ebay!
  4. Hi, I've done a forum search and a general google to try and answer the question I'm about to ask but end up going around in circles and getting more confused so I'm hoping there's a straightforward answer. I've got standard rear bulb holders and struggling to get a decent earth. I've run an extra ground cable to each bulb holder but still only some of the lights work consistently. I've read about people soldering an extra tab to the bulb holders, and others using stag bulb holders. My question is, do all stag bulb holders have the extra earth tab fitted as standard? Thanks, Steve
  5. Hi All Some more advice please. My car has not run in a long long time, in reality it probably ran for less than 15 years before being taken off the road. So I’ve got what appears to be an original Lucas distributor. Do I just clean it up stick in new points and a condenser and put it back or get it refurbished by Distributor Doctor (or similar) or exchange it? (any other suggestions welcome) What slightly puzzles me is that if Distributor Doctor refurb it that’s £195 but if Moss (not usually that cheap) supply a refurb one on exchange its £165. I’m tempted by the Moss one but has anyone any knowledge or experience of the quality of the work or know who they use to rebuild? Cheers Keith
  6. Hi All Any wiring experts out there. Having a few issues with this bit. It might be my lack of knowledge or me not being able to read a wiring diagram, which is not good when trying to rewire a car, Lol. So I’ve got 6 wires go to the IGN switch, it’s a 72 so its under the steering colum. There are 3 white, 1 white red trace and two brown white trace. Now according to the wiring diagram (advance autowire version 1972 model) there are 4 connections, as per rear of IGN switch with the brown/W to a common connector the 3 white to a common connector and the White red on its own so one unused. No prob that makes sense. But which connectors? The diagram in the brown book shows them but does not say which wire goes to which connector, unless I assume the Red white goes to the single. Given that on the physical switch the connections are numbered (See pic) does anyone have a definitive list of what wire goes to what number connector? Clearly those connections will determine what is “on” at each different position of the IGN key so if anyone can also supply or direct me to a list of what works and when that would also be great. I think I’ve tried every combination and its got it working but not quite at 100%, so its either wrong or its right but I have another problem affecting these wires as well. Cheers Keith
  7. I have a 45 amp alternator with a voltmeter fitted but have a bit of a worry Most of the time it reads 13.5 volts At 2000 revs With Revotec fan running it drops to just under 13 volts With headlamps (Osram night breakers) on as well it drops to just over 12 volts At idle with everything on it reads just under 12 volts Is this normal? Im in a quandary as we are off to Angouleme very soon and returning via the Italian lakes and Switzerland, so a lot of driving in the Alps. Do I Leave it as it is Buy an 18 ACR alternator (45 amps) from Moss tomorrow Fit a 55 amp alternator If the latter where is the best and quickest place to purchase one that will be a direct swap. Thanks for your help Nigel
  8. Hi all, I am installing a new loom in my TR4, I have changed to an alternator. I assume I change the old dynamo regulator to a alternator regulator ? also do I need to upgrade the fusebox ? Regards Ron
  9. Hi All Still on going with the electrics and one thing that i didn't do but would be a good idea is bench test my starter motor. Si I stripped it down and cleaned and tidied it up and all looks ok, but i guess i should test it to see if it actaully works. So i'm not 100% sure on how to do that. Clearly i would put a live feed to the top electrical input on the solenoid but i know that won't do much until the White / Red Trace wire from the IGN switch powers and tells the solenoid "GO" So can i use any old live feed for that or does it need to be a specific current to trigger it? Seems sensible to bench test it as i can then see if anything at all is happening. Cheers Keith
  10. ronhatch

    Fuse box

    Hi all, just going to install the fuse box but in looks knackered, so going to buy a new one should I take the opportunity to put a bigger capacity unit in for future add ons and if so what size 6 way, 8 way ? Regards Ron
  11. Went for a blast in the TR250 to calm down after after posting about the latest bod problems and the fuse blew when I flashed my headlamps. The flasher, stereo and 12v accessory socket share their own unique fuse and the lighting switch is column mounted so changed the fuse, tested the flasher and the fuse blew. After lots of stripping everything down (what a pig of a job to access the wiring under the colum and remove the switch - thinking of leaving the cover off and use cable ties!) all the wiring appears fine - no breaks or dodgy insulation. By accident I discovered that the outer casing of the switch is permantly live when all wiring connected. If I disconnect the brown wire which supplys the power to flash the headlamps the outer switch casing is no longer live. I assume this is the problem but cannot see anything obvious and it looks impossible to take apart without breaking it. A new switch is £60ish so any ideas before I go to Moss on Tuesday. Was hoping to use the car this weekend but dont fancy putting everything back together and then stripping it all out again. Cable ties are looking more and more attractive. Cheers Nigel
  12. Hi, Moved on to the interior of a long 74 TR6 restoration project. Got a new wiper/wash switch, the big round one that pushes and turns not a rocker. Trouble is it doesn't come with the fixings, numbered 81 to 85 in the Moss book. Have tried all the usual suppliers, including those who deal in second had parts with no luck. Does anybody know where i can get these or any other suggestion. If not does any body know the thread size and type on the switch as will try and make something. tried lots and nothing seems to fit and have to be very careful due to the soft plastic. Thanks Dave
  13. Before I begin this post, I am aware that the newer fuse ratings are continuous and not blow. The question therefore is fuse ratings in 'old money'. The TR4/4A workshop manual states that the fuses in the fuse box should be 25A blow (12.5 continuous) but both Rimmers and Moss are selling 35A fuses for both the TR4 and 4A (I am assuming for the sake of this that these fuses are 35A blow). The only fuse that is 35A blow 17.5A continuous in the workshop manual is the horn fuse. Consequently I have been using 25A in the fuse box (with no problems). Usual reason for a fuse to blow is a short to earth and both a 25A and 35A would blow in that instance. Just wondering when it was decided by the 2 suppliers mentioned that it was ok to fit the 35A (blow) in place of the 25A (blow) mentioned in the workshop manual. Unfortunately the TR4A handbook fails to state the fuse rating. The Haynes manual follows the workshop recommendations. I have also got the TR4/4A owners workshop manual by Kenneth Ball (Autopress) and that also states that the fuse carrier has 2 x 25A fuses and the horn is 35A (again blow rating). Does it matter which fuse is fitted? Personally I am sticking to the 25A fuses to err a bit on the safe side. (Rather blow a fuse than cook the wires). Also does anyone have a quick DIY way of telling whether a fuse marked simply 35A is blow or continuous. Presumably the 2 types have differing resistances but the resistance is too low for a standard ohmmeter to differentiate. I have tried a simple Wheatstone bridge and a simple Kelvin bridge arrangement to compare fuses with no success. I have a few of these fuses that I might end up ditching because I can't tell what they are. Keith
  14. Hi everybody Kenlow fan controls are good because they have an automatic function when the water temp gets too high and a manual override and a fan teltail light to enable the driver to manually switch on the fan and also be aware when the fan is running very good but the fiddle of getting a copper tube into the upper waterways is difficult and difficult to seal What other methods are used to give the auto control with manual override and tell tale light? I have used kenlows for years but feel it might be time to move on Would appreciate more modern solutions that others have found to work Hopefully MichaelH
  15. Hi all I have a 1972 PI with ignition on the steering column. I discovered the other day that the spring that returns the ignition key from "start" to "run" appears to have failed. Before going the whole hog and replacing the ignition unit (which seems like a sledgehammer to crack a nut) I want to remove the ignition barrel and do some investigation. Plenty of instructions on how to do that, but I can't for the life of me find how to remove the padded trim around the keyhole. How is it fixed - I don't want to force it. Any guidance gratefully received!
  16. Keith66

    Washer Bottle

    Hi All Was going to pop my refurbished washer bottle back on my resto project. Looks nice and clean with repainted bracket and home made strap. Cleaned all the motor up before giving it a test and err dead. So should it work by just connecting to a 12v, i would assume it would, but no. Completly disasambled it and it looks fine to me and the motor spins freely when the shaft is spun, but clearly i know nothing. So any tricks to get and old electric motor such as this kicked into life? I've had a look at the usual retail suspencts and this type of motor (see pic) seems unavailable only a Lucas GWW125, which although cheap as chips is the wrong shape and i'd prefer to get this one working. Cheers Keith
  17. Keith66

    More Electrics

    Hi All In my "Fuel pump electrics" post i also asked the question "On a similar (electrical) but unconnected note whats the best way to test my "Highly Professional" installation? lol." "Do i just stick a battery on and see if the lights work, things like the fuel pump feed i guess i can check via a multimeter." Well all i can say is Whoa, let there be light!!, lol. Keith
  18. Hi All So i'm kind of finishing off the installation of my new Autosparks harness on my 72 Pi. Now call me dumb as i didn't think about it when orderring the harness, but its been suggested that the feed to the fuel pump should be a heavier gauge wire and possibly be fed via a relay, to make sure no or less current drop by the time it al reaches the pump and that the wiring does not overheat, or so i understand things. So assuming that is right, has anyone else done it and can someone give me some info on how to do it, what gauge wire to use, what relay to use if thats sensible, and where to connect all that. The harness is in and more or less finished but with no interior in the way now is the time to tackle this kind of thing. For info i'll pretty much be running original Pi spec, so Lucas pump etc but in the future one never knows so flexibility would also be a fine idea. Cheers Keith
  19. When I rewired my 3A I kept the old wiring harness. This provides me with spare colour coded wiring for additional extras. Tom.
  20. Hi All Trying to finish off my electrical installation and hopefully not a million miles away. But its new electrical harness installation on a bare car (so no old harness references) so I have some question which might be obvious to everyone, but err not to me. So I’m using the brown book and the advance auto-wire wiring diagrams but need some clarification on a few points. Horn Relay. I’m sure I found a schematic that said what wire to what connection. But as I cannot find it can someone enlighten me. There are C1, C2, W1, and W2 connections and as far as I can work out the following wires, plain purple X 2, but linked, Purple Yellow trace and Purple Black trace. So I’ve connected it up as per some photos etc but would just like some confirmation of what colour to what connection. What wire go to the white plastic connector block located in front of the fuse box? So far I have a brown single and a twin brown both from the harness but nowt else, sure something is missing. What wires go in and out of the fuse box. Think I’ve got most of it ok from the schematics but seem to have a couple of wires left over from the harness, a black erath (Lucar Spade) and a Green with a black or possibly slate trace (Lucar Spade) which is believe is either the fuel gauge to sender or possibly heater motor, but as it’s by the fuse box fuel sender seems favourite. But where does it connect. Also slightly puzzled by the front indicators. All connects up ok (hopefully) bar the green from each indicator and repeater which seem to have nowhere to go. But thinking about it sense would say they connect together so linking the indicator to its repeater but I’m not sure so can someone confirm or shoot down my thoughts. All help much appreciated. Cheers Keith
  21. Just thought I would share some information regarding voltage stabilisers. Both Moss and Rimmers specify the part number 128484 for both TR4 and TR4A. However this stabiliser is for positive earth only vehicles (i.e. original TR4 spec). As such they will not work on the TR4A. Instead you should fit the TR5 unit part number 148876A which is for negative earth cars (TR4A and later). This is because these later units have solid state internals and need to be connected with correct polarity. The original stabilisers had a bimetal strip with a heating wire coiled around it. Voltage was regulated by the rapid make and break of the bimetal strip. Didn't matter whether positive or negative earth for those types. Would work either way. Earlier Moss solid state units had part numbers 131-555 for negative earth and 131-556 for positive earth if you have one of those. This all came to light this morning when I turned out the spares in the boot to find that my spare voltage stabiliser was a positive earth rather than negative for my 4A. Also discovered the spare spark plugs had gone rusty and were not the same as in the car and the spare radiator cap had disintegrated. Time for a spares spring clean I think to see what other junk I have been driving around with in the boot. Keith
  22. Hi Folks, yesterday I renewed the battery on my '64 TR4 and the guy tested the battery under load [engine running, lights on]. It gave 13.8 volts so all well. However, the alternator conversion is causing the ammeter to give a significant apparent discharge. Does anyone have details of wiring which correct the ammeter reading to include alternator input? Pic attached of the ammeter with engine running and lights on. Best wishes Willie
  23. Had problems with the Overdrive that turned out to be the switch. So I replaced it, but this one is nearly as bad in as much as the overdrive will keep dropping out and reengaging. Are they all from the same source or are some better than others? Definitely the switch because if I put pressure on it I can get The overdrive to cycle! Or has anyone managed a good modification?
  24. Having recently had the dashboard and steering column out on my car, a 73 CR and replaced wiring and heater etc., I am now in the process of checking everything. My indicator switch was very worn and tired and I have ordered a new one. However the spring clip on the steering column with the wheels straight ahead, has the operation hump at 12 o'clock which does not seem right. This clip has an indentation that engages with a indentation on the steering column and therefore will only go in one fixed orientation. The steering column is connected as was previously and unless I am missing something, because of the flats where the bolts go at the joints, the column has to go back in the same orientation as before. It may well be that the cancellation clip has been in the wrong orientation for many years and cancelled one side sooner than the other! What is the correct orientation of the cancellation ring in relation to the switch? ( I think it should be pointing away at 9 oclock) How do I change it if required - drill another indentation in the steering column? MARK
  25. XKC1808 is fitted to late US TR6 : apparently made in Zamak, it's bolted under the front bumper. I need the right one (driver side on UK' car), who can help ? https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID600327 (item 119 on this drawing)
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