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  1. Since I wrote about wiper-motors in TR-Action it's probably no secret that I rebuild the early Lucas wiper-motors. About 10% of those that come my way have a problem with the armature. This is not a problem with the DR2 type, because I have a good stock of new armatures for these, left over from other activity. Ask if you need one. But the more common DR3A type armatures are a problem to get. Now and again I get lucky and find one for £20. Sometimes I get forced to pay £40-50. This really makes a motor rebuild uneconomic. Even if I find an NOS one there is no guarantee it will be in good shape. Often they have rusty shafts and other corrosion, having sat too long in damp packaging. Anybody on here who finds he has a commutator ploughed up by the brush arms, will be in the same position as me. Except I'll be on eBay bidding too. Apart from damage from being run with worn brushes, there is the dreaded "black-wire" problem. Here is one I fixed recently for a Register member: This happens if they are powered up, but stalled or jammed for any reason. At least 10A will flow and the temperature gets high enough to melt the solder joints. You can see this on one of the tags. This is the inside of the motor. You can see the witness left by evaporated varnish: Armatures like this continue to run. May do so so for quite a while. Annual MOT and running about to summer shows and you'd be OK, most likely. But one dark wet night on the motorway and after running hot for a few hours, don't bet on it. I DON'T SELL THESE. No doubt many others on eBay would. Be careful ! So I have a dozen laying about and a worsening supply problem. I asked every motor rewinding-shop I could find, to quote for rewinding them. NOT ONE REPLIED. I am rather glad they didn't bother. The reason is that they know what I now know. It's not just the wire. The copper commutator-segments are moulded into the phenolic bush. This is probably the hottest spot. When you strip one down this happens: This is probably a more likely cause of terminal failure than the wire. A segment gets loose, catches the brush and game over. Rewinds are POINTLESS on these, unless you fit a new commutator. Nobody has these, which is why nobody would quote me. To be fair I asked in the RFQ for new commutators, just to shut out the rogues. I thought about making new commutators. I'd do this if I just wanted one, maybe! I considered other things like nicking them from DR2's. These are not exactly the same but close. I could get them off but I'd scrap the shaft. It would mean lathe-work and this would be slow. Then I found these: New, not identical, but very close. They would be cheap too, were it not for shipping, VAT, customs-handling etc. i took a £100 punt and got ten. All the ploughed up commutators got fixed in an afternoon. Four perfectly serviceable armatures from the scrap heap, economic even if I count labour at a commercial rate. Brilliant! Now then, what to with the black-wire ones? You can all guess what comes next I expect.
  2. I thought it would be useful to post some words and pictures on how I recently fitted LED strip lights to vastly improve the illumination in my boot. Hopefully the pictures tell the story, but here are some points to note: The c.45 degree edge on the boot frame provides an ideal mounting point for self-adhesive LED strips 30cm long as the angle means they flood the boot with light when the boot is open. I used red heatshrink to protect and camouflage the wiring to the LEDs. The wires are fed into the space behind the boot card by using the boot hinge assemblies and connected to the existing wiring using plastic self-stripping cable lock connectors - not my usual connector of choice, but OK for this non-critical low current wiring. The LEDs I used had a 1metre wire already attached, but don't seem to be available any longer - however search for "LED white strip 12v 30cm" on and you will find what you need. I hope this is of use to someone. Cheers Steve PS) I can't claim the credit for the idea - I was inspired by seeing a similar arrangement under the bonnet of Mark Bulford's TR4!
  3. I see there have been a few posts recently around this area so apologies but given the consequences of me getting this wrong I wanted an unambiguous thread. When I ordered my new wiring loom for BUO, CP series TR6, I spec'd an upgraded relay fed supply for the fuel pump, and feed for electric fan. All good I thought .............no the fuel pump and fan feeds were taken directly from the back of the starter motor ie the non load side of the ammeter so if it (the ammeter) was of any use when it was fitted to the car in '72 it not doing much good now. I'm planning to pull my current ammeter apart and fit the front bezel and 'mask' to one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Smiths-Volt-GAUGE-52-MM-Diameter-Real-Item/124102619368?_trkparms=aid%3D999002%26algo%3DURGENT.LUI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140502134130%26meid%3D08b0fa52eb6f41c18adec7086db7055d%26pid%3D100043%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26so%3Dlastwatched%26sd%3D202761281899%26itm%3D124102619368%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2508447%26brand%3DSmiths&_trksid=p2508447.c100043.m2062 I know it will then show 'amps' when I'm measuring volts but think I'll be able to manage the conversion in my head. My understanding is connect the 'in' and 'out' of the ammeter together and connect this to the +ve side of the voltmeter and then earth the other side. Could somebody just confirm for me please.
  4. Just thought I would share some information regarding voltage stabilisers. Both Moss and Rimmers specify the part number 128484 for both TR4 and TR4A. However this stabiliser is for positive earth only vehicles (i.e. original TR4 spec). As such they will not work on the TR4A. Instead you should fit the TR5 unit part number 148876A which is for negative earth cars (TR4A and later). This is because these later units have solid state internals and need to be connected with correct polarity. The original stabilisers had a bimetal strip with a heating wire coiled around it. Voltage was regulated by the rapid make and break of the bimetal strip. Didn't matter whether positive or negative earth for those types. Would work either way. Earlier Moss solid state units had part numbers 131-555 for negative earth and 131-556 for positive earth if you have one of those. This all came to light this morning when I turned out the spares in the boot to find that my spare voltage stabiliser was a positive earth rather than negative for my 4A. Also discovered the spare spark plugs had gone rusty and were not the same as in the car and the spare radiator cap had disintegrated. Time for a spares spring clean I think to see what other junk I have been driving around with in the boot. Keith
  5. Have started to install the dashboard and instruments on the 5 and have got to the rheostat. The hexagonal 'driveshaft' has a sprung button on it as do all the other controls of that type but the black control knob does not have a hole for the button to spring into. Is that normal and if so is there any benefit in drilling a hole. Obviously there is no 'pull' action on the rheostat as with the other control knobs? Many thanks, Tim
  6. I want to replace many of the corroded bullet connectors, but is there a tool in the market place that will also crimp the wire insulation like the originals were done? I have seen the tool in Vehicle wiring products, 4 sided crimp, but it would seem it doesn't crimp on the insulation as well. I know there are special bullets for crimping, where is the best source of these? John
  7. Another question! Installed the new wiring harness, supplied by AutoSparks, and am now slowly connecting up. Have now realised that having asked for "the standard primary wiring harness and standard secondary harnesses for gearbox, overdrive" , and emphasised in writing that the car does have overdrive, the loom has nothing for gearbox and overdrive. I assumed that this would have been part of the main harness - am I wrong - is it supplied as a separate harness and not integral with the main harness? Your views welcomed as usual. Thanks, Tim
  8. Can any one confirm or deny the truth in this listing please. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-XK120-XK140-WIPER-MOTOR-NEW-ORIGINAL-3-SPEED-WORKS-Triumph-TR3-TR3A/232133465815?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 If it's true, I'll make 'em available to anyone making a works replica. Its not right for an XK120 or 140 probably. But this guy is a Triumph restorer so maybe he knows.
  9. Can someone help with a fuse rating. I have a relay for the two front spot lamps. The relay takes a signal from the high beam feed and then connects main power. The fuse has gone missing and I am not sure what rating would be correct. It is a coloured blade fuse. I have a card of different coloured blade fuses but can not see a rating on the individual fuses. I need to know the rating and the colour if significant. Thanks Richard & B.
  10. Does anybody have clear wiring diagram for a 5 please? Many thanks, Tim
  11. This fault was new to me, the engine wasn't running well, so I tried tuning carbs and ignition and checked the plugs. I didn't get any result and it seemed that it ran even worse after checking the plugs. This continued until I finally discovered that the brass insert in the cap, of one of the caps, was stuck on the plug. Checking the other caps showed that 3 out of 4 brass connectors were loose. Substituted them for considerably more expensive caps and the engine is now running as it should. So, advice to myself, stop buying cheap stuff!
  12. Hi Troops - a quick question that I hope you can help with. My temperature gauge has been over-reading for some while and I ordered a new 85 degree temperature switch from RS Components. The packet has arrived and it states 100 degrees and 100 is printed on the switch itself. I've been on the 'chatline' to RS and it appears there is an error on their website specification for this item (it clearly states 85 degrees). RS components don''t have 85 degrees, they do have 75 degrees. I'm obviously no techie so not sure what to do? Any advice very much appreciated as always. Christine PS - she did 1500 miles to Angouleme and back last year - so chuffed. I didn't drive all the way!
  13. Keith66


    Hi All Looking at making the switch from std bulbs to LED’s and looking for some views and feedback. No issue for the interior and the exterior bulbs like indicators brakes etc, but unsure about headlights. My car currently still has the original type sealed beam units and I know they are not great so I do want to upgrade, but a few choices so I thought I’d ask for some feedback from those who have the diff options fitted. First and simplest would be to upgrade to Halogen units but does it enough improvement. Secondly Xenons, my understanding is that fitting Xenons although legal is much more complex and difficult but more info would be welcome. LED’s. Again i think LEDs can be fitted but not sure bulbs can just replace Halogens or a whole LED specific unit is required. Also some of the lenses I’ve seem for LED units look way to modern aesthetically for an old car so are there alternatives? Cheers Keith
  14. A well known register member passed a DR3A wiper motor to me recently. It's got a 130 degree gear-wheel and came from a TR3A most likely. It ran OK, but took more current than they should do, indicating it was a bit stiff. It always amazes me how well these have stood up and I've yet to see one that is beyond repair. But there are a couple of common failures and so here I dismantle this and show how to restore and improve these. It came looking like this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/12569961143/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/12569960223/ There is a bit more corrosion underneath than usual but this is insignificant. Four screws hold the top-plate, one missing but I've got new ones. Slip off the Horseshoe clip and C-clip, don't loose the tiny thin shim from the crank-pin. http://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/12569957713/ This is a carbon-braush set, in good order, note the orientation of the "grooves". http://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/12569956373/ The 130 degree gear, arm and cone-washer http://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/12570304214/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/12570301184/ Store the armature carefully to prevent breaking any wires. If the carbon brushes wear down the two arms will cut grooves into the copper I can "skim" these but this one is good. The black ring is normal. http://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/12570297144/ This shows one of the common problems http://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/12569945753/ The arm is bent up. Happens if you try to remove connection to the wire-rack without releasing the Horseshoe-clip. The arm will scrape on the cover and the wire-rack won't go smoothly into its tube. You can do without this extra friction. It takes a few wiggles to get the big self-taps out of the pole-piece. Go easy they could break off and this would be awkward to fix. http://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/12569923693/ After 1 hour in Caustic-soda. Wear protection! http://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/12593543515/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/12593984004/
  15. Hi all Im trying to source some cibie headlights. Looking at past threads 082441 seems to be the right part number but it seems they are no longer available. Ive ordered a couple of times only to find the order cancelled because they cant get hold of them. Ive got them on my TR4 and looking for some for my GT6. Any help appreciated. regards Bob
  16. This topic has been prompted by wiper-brush kits becoming available on eBay for much lower prices than hitherto, £12 as against £25 or more. And I bought a DR2 from 1958 with the classic destroyed commutator, caused by running with worn-out brushes. A few years back I'd have to store a motor like this until a new armature turned up. Both DR2 and DR3A wiper-motors will run to destruction without carbon-brushes. This one was running OK, if a bit squeaky. Then I bought some commutators from the US and could fix them. But after shipping, import cost and VAT these worked out to cost around £10 each. Now I can get them on eBay from China for less than £3 including shipping. And very good parts they are too. The photos are largely self-explanatory I think. Except photo 3. I get the old commutator off by crushing in a vise. You can see that only a few thou of copper remains and if run a little longer this would all come apart. More or less anybody with a soldering iron could do this job and it would take only an hour or so. The last photo shows the front area of shaft where the bearing runs. Even after 60 years of hard life I cannot measure any wear here. They are usually like this. Whereas NOS ones in boxes are often rusty, even if advertised at £100 or more.
  17. Hi all, went to the garage to start the car and it won't start! It is a 73 PI CR engine with a Luminition system which I fitted 5 years ago and has worked perfectly until now. I turn the ignition on and there is 12v at the coil, I then start churning the starter motor and the voltage at the coil drops to about 9 - 9.5v. The engine does not fire, when I release the ignition switch the engine fires on the release and tries to start???? If it fires successfully the engine runs OK. I do not think there is any spark while the starter is churning but is a bit difficult to see as I have only one pair of arms!! I am assuming it then sparks as the ignition switch is released any ideas?? kc
  18. MARK

    Horn fuse blowing

    More electrical gremlins on my 73 cr tr6! My horns stopped working and I found the fuse -35 Amp had blown. I replaced this and all was well. I checked for any obvious wiring issues and found none. On taking car for MOT I checked horn on the way and found fuse had gone again! I replaced fuse just before reaching the MOT station and it lasted for the test however by the time I got home the fuse had gone again! This fuse covers the horns,all interior lights and the headlamp flasher. All bulbs on interior lights (underdash, boot) are not fitted at the moment. the glove box bulb operated ok when I earthed it (Switch missing). The interior light switch is not fitted at the moment and connections are insulated. So far I have checked that the circuits from the fuse are not showing a leak to earth by putting a test lamp on them with a feed directly from the Pos battery terminal. I have also checked that the horn push is ok by removing the trigger connection from the relay and using a test lamp. I have taken apart the Lucas relay and could find nothing wrong and no sign of shorting. I have checked all the bulb holders and no sign of shorts. The headlamp flasher operates correctly( new switch). I have been unable to replicate fuse blow in the Garage even with ignition on and lights. Before I start an autopsy on my wiring loom, has anyone had the same problem? I must be missing something !!! Any words of wisdom as ever, very gratefully accepted !! MARK
  19. Hi, Just wondering if anybody could point me in the right direction to buy a coloured wiring diagram for my TR7 1981 UK car. I have unfortunately tried to use the many websites that advertise TR7 wiring diagrams under google images , but most if not all turn out to be scams looking for payment card details and hidden monthly subscriptions. Very frustrating for your average classic car enthusiast. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks in Advance Paul
  20. Hi I tried to start my TR5 which had been stood for a while and found whilst the battery was allowing the Bosch fuel pump to whir when I turned the key there wasn't enough juice in the battery to start the car - no surprises there. However having removed the battery, charged it up etc I then turned the key to find that the fuel pump is silent and clearly not working so the starter motor is clicking away with no fuel coming through. I have checked the fuses, I have checked all the wires connecting to the fuel pump but can't find any obvious issues. Seems very strange when all I have done is remove and replace the battery after charging it up. Any thoughts/assistance? Thanks a lot Best Sean
  21. I've been busy the last couple of days re modelling my TR6 loud speaker pods. I had bought and fitted Moss supplied pods at least 20 years ago with locally supplied Alpine speakers. Many years of activity, (you don't have to ask!) had taken the toll on the integrity of the hardboard backbone as highlighted in the attached photo. They also had a mind of their own and often fell down into the footwell. The used of cable ties and gaffa tape to hold them in place was never pretty. My wife bought me a Stanley staple gun for my birthday in August, and naturally I knew exactly where it was going to be used first. I have remodelled a pair but with thought for robustness and price. I have used 5mm plywood from B&Q and resourced off cuts of vinyl and a combination of 1" and 0.5" foam to suit from 'Thames Upholstery' here in Southend on Sea, Essex very generously given to me at zero cost! I used the original hardboard as a template, out came my hardly used jigsaw and copies were made. Everything else more or less fell into place, and as you can see from the photos, job done! The sound from these speakers was never that great with a distinct lack of bass as there is no baffle. However the rigid construction of these new pods has helped the sound to a small degree. They were a little tricky to get into place as the plywood does not offer much flexibility, but where there is a will, there is a way! So for the cost of less than £10 I'm very pleased with the end result. Only one downside, the 20 year speaker covers are not like new, oh yes there's always Ebay!
  22. Hi Folks, yesterday I renewed the battery on my '64 TR4 and the guy tested the battery under load [engine running, lights on]. It gave 13.8 volts so all well. However, the alternator conversion is causing the ammeter to give a significant apparent discharge. Does anyone have details of wiring which correct the ammeter reading to include alternator input? Pic attached of the ammeter with engine running and lights on. Best wishes Willie
  23. I am thinking of installing electronic ignition to my '72 UK Dec registered TR6. Looking for any advice on which is the best and the best value for money and tips on fitting. Thanks, Andy
  24. The indicators have stopped working on my 1974 TR6 can you please give me some advice on how to troubleshoot this. The flasher unit looks new - its round not oblong, but of course that doesn't mean it is working. I also dont know if this is important but when I tried the indicators in the garage there was a click on the passenger side behind the dash and then nothing. It hasnt done this again turning the ignition switch on and off. The fuse is ok. Could a blown bulb cause the problem? I'm not an electrician but I know how to use an ammeter and follow basic instructions. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Rob
  25. Hi, I've done a forum search and a general google to try and answer the question I'm about to ask but end up going around in circles and getting more confused so I'm hoping there's a straightforward answer. I've got standard rear bulb holders and struggling to get a decent earth. I've run an extra ground cable to each bulb holder but still only some of the lights work consistently. I've read about people soldering an extra tab to the bulb holders, and others using stag bulb holders. My question is, do all stag bulb holders have the extra earth tab fitted as standard? Thanks, Steve
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