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Found 98 results

  1. So always hearing about electric fans and how they save 100hp blah blah. Well I was looking for an electric water pump for my Turbo powered F3 car as when she stops in hot weather after a burn the fans start going. But of course the water isnt circulating so I thought why not have an electric water pump to circulate the water one engine is off but fans are still going. Well after reading up about Hp saved and stuff I was wondering, has anyone ever fitted an electric water pump in their TR ? Why not? many want electric fans and an electric pump is the same principle, Hp saved and faster warm up times etc. Personally I dont even use an electric fan in my 5 or 6 but it might be handy to use as a supplementary cooler for someone or even as an emergency carry pump. Anyone ever used one and if not why not if your so convinced regards an electric fan? Tony
  2. I want to temporarily measure the coolant temperature accurately. My TR4A <seems> to run a bit hot, but I don't know if its just the gauge or something worse. So I am looking for a bit of kit that I can temporarily install to check the temperature against what the gauge is saying. Then can see if there is actually an issue. Any ideas? Ian.
  3. Good Morning Sages Getting air to the carbs? I believe I have a 4 engine with HS6’s and of course those mahoosive 'neighbour annoying' extractors sitting right underneath. I have the standard cardboard air cowl, so water temps fine and cool when poodling, but it gets very wheezy when hot. I don’t want to wrap/coat as the exhaust as it will be replaced in the nearish future. How are you venting air to the carbs (if you are)? I assume some sort of flanged intake then a hose directing air ? Recommendations, materials? Dia of hose to be effective? Demon weeks have these ? http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/brake-ducts-ducting/revotec-aluminium-air-inlets http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/silicone-ducting-hose/revotec-flexible-ducting-hose-2 Do these Moss heat carb shields work and are they simple to fit, ie, will i fup uck my carb settings by unbolting the carbs? (do I also need to add gaskets) £46 seems a lot for a bent piece of tin ! http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/-357876.html I was going to slide this over the fuel lines as they sit v close to the extractors. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/heat-shielding-protection/design-engineering-cool-tube
  4. DaveN


    CR chassis. New Radiator bottom hose is tight up against the cross member. Now the bottom hose boss/pipe on the Radiator does have a slight bend as is correct but should it also be bent downwards allowing the hose to sweep up and thus clear the chassis? Its almost as if the rad brackets should be slightly higher (therefore allowing the rad to sit lower). The downside to this would mean the two stays would have to be altered otherwise due to triangulation the rad would not be vertical! Another minor point theres no way in its current configuration would the rubber isolation washers fit.! Thoughts anyone? Dave
  5. Willie


    Hi Everyone. A seasonal conundrum - I can't get any heat out of the heater!! Scuttle vent lid OPEN, heater core backflushed and found to have a healthy water flow. New heater control valve fitted. Both heater hoses hot during test and heater box also pleasantly warm to the touch. Blower fan aking a blower noise so assumed to be working [negative discharge on voltmeter also suggesting it is running]. I assume the airduct control cable is pushed in fully to divert all airflow to the screen vent outlets? Only thing missing appears to be hot air!! HELP!! Best wishes Willie
  6. Sorry - SOLD I have one of the famous Everco 74648 heater valves available (new) if anyone wants one, brought over from the States by a friend as I have bought one to fit to my TR6 and replace the standard part. Will sell at cost (£22.34) plus P&P or bring up to Malvern - will be there Sat & Sun. Cheers Steve
  7. A company I came across several years ago, looking for component to make up a fuel pressure testing rig, and have subsequently used for odd requirements. They seem to have a vast selection of products, and by phone were knowledgeable and more than helpful . . . . . also have an ebay shop https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/ http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Venair-Silicone-Hose-World/Terms-and-Policys.html Usual disclaimers, I don't know the folks there, simply found them useful ! Cheers Alec
  8. I am gradually working through the usual list of suspects in order to keep the 3A running at an acceptable temperature. Yesterday I noticed that the temp gauge was registering a little north of 30 degrees. This on a car that has not moved for 3 weeks and was sitting in a cool garage. Just wondered if this is the normal resting position of the needle or whether this might be indicative of an over-reading gauge. If the latter, it would explain a couple of things. Anyone any knowledge? As a supplemental, what are the pair of dots either side of the 85 degree line? Never noticed them before. Many thanks as ever - Miles ~original
  9. The subject of radiators comes up from time to time - cost of rebuilding etc. I've just had the Super Snipe rad rebuilt by Raysons of Yeovil, a firm I've used occasionally for the past 30 years. The original 1958 rad, now somewhat the worse for anno domini, I wished to preserve as much as possible rather than replace. Not that replacements exist for cars as rare as an S1 Super Snipe . . . . . The old Humber has a big radiator, 27" x 19" x 2½" . . . . . a lot bigger than TR, for example. Yank Tank size as Raysons put it.This one required a recore, and some judicious repair to the brass casing and steel bracketry. Proper old-fashioned job in proper old-fashioned materials. See photos below. Cost came out at £307 including the vat, which isn't too bad for the size - and the fact that the various repairs to the metalwork are barely visible even to me, who knows where the problems were ! Usual disclaimers. Cheers, Alec
  10. Hello all... Let's try to keep this to ourselves (I don't want those Peerless guys getting wind of this) I've started restoring a 1960 3A I know, SPLITTER! I'm just asking in case there's a good resource/cheat sheet of 'sensible/practical modifications' for people doing a complete nut and bolt rebuild. Does anything want strengthening/beefing up/adding/cutting off (I'm talking about the car) etc on either the body/chassis ? Are there any well known weaknesses or failings (I'm talking about the TR...) that can be improved upon without spoiling the originality (noticeably)? (I'm certainly thinking about the rear crank rubber oil seal mod as no one would ever know except the people I get my driveway cleaning fluid from...) My chassis has already been powder coated (that was already done) and I intend to get the endoscope into the chassis tubes to preclude any nasty surprises later but now's the time to make any mods if any are necessary. I'm not aiming for bloody minded 100% originality to the absolute exclusion of every day practicality but I don't want to be adding ABS and IOBD2 either. The car will be used virtually every day in the same way I used my Warwicks/Peerlii in the past so it's got to be reliable and reasonably usable in modern conditions (i.e. crawling along at 2mph 50% of the time and having the suspension battered to death by 4" deep pot holes the other 50%. Once any modifications and repairs to the body/chassis are complete, my first job will be mounting the (etch primed) body on the chassis so that all the paint prep work can be carried out and panel gaps sorted. So for instance..... Where do I buy (or do I make) the best possible body mounting kit? I've seen talk on here of the old fabric impregnated rubbers being better, if this is true does anyone sell them? I'm sure I will have a million questions but I'll try to ask some of you in person as I look around all the 3A's at Malvern this year... Thank you for reading this far and if you have any comments that will be a great bonus! Jon
  11. Hi Anyone used these £145 alloy rads on ebay ? LEN
  12. Hi, I am thinking that i might like to have an air-conditioning kit fitted to my UK spec right hand drive, petrol injected TR6 which is a 1974 CR model. Does anyone have any experience with this and who is the best outfit to have this done by?
  13. Hi All, just trying to replace the wide fanbelt on my 1960 3a but struggling with the narrow gaps it has to pass through. 1. The aftermarket steering rack is v. close to the crankshaft pulley securing bolts, but I can loosen the rack mounts to get clearance there. 2. The gap between the cross brace and the crankshaft pulley is also less than the width of the belt, but I see Mr. Haynes recommends unbolting the brace to get the belt in/out. 3. Now I see the gap between the fan bolts and the radiator is also less than the fan belt width Mr. Haynes makes no mention of removing the radiator. Has anyone got any tips on this (simple) roadside task? Haynes does suggest I strap a second replacement belt in place ready for next time but that doesn't help me much now. Maybe this is the reason so many people go for the narrow belt conversions..... Keith
  14. Been doing a bit of research into a new radiator for BUO's rebuild. I must admit I knew there were to types the pre CP75000 and the post but I thought it was just a repositioning of the of the bottom outlet (although why I've no idea) but when Looking at alloy rads ( que some running for crucifix and holy water) sold by Moss the pre 7500 rads have the rad cap on the top of the rad wheras the post 7500 rads have the cap inset into the top of the rad, any ideas why ? Racestorations appear to only sell the post 75000 type http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/cooling-system/radiators-hoses-fittings/aluminium-radiators-420355.html ATB Graham
  15. Olde Starts on the Button Olde Purrs Like a Kitten Olde Roars Like a Lion Olde Great Oil Pressure Olde No Smoke (honest) Olde no Oil Leaks Olde Good Water Temps Olde Bombed it Round the M25 Olde BMW Basher Olde Boomin Northern Soul on the Stereo Olde (lights even works in the dark!) Olde Maybe I Should Change my Mind? Olde Worth At Least £1/2m Well done gents. Another victory to strike up for 'TR Forum Restorations Ltd - No Challenge Is Too Hard'
  16. I have a CR car immigrated from the UK where it underwent an amateur (but looks, I think, relatively sound) restoration in the late 90s. Part of this was the installation of a Kenlowe fan. The switch/light for it under the dash was swathed in electrical tape which I thought was to keep the smoke in but after having a go at the dash recently and neglecting to redo it all, I found that it was actually to prevent getting burns from accidentally touching the contacts whilst it's running... I had always assumed that little box under the thermistor dial held a relay but given the amount of amps that must be going through those wires to heat them up am I right in assuming there's no relay and I should (now the blister is healing) get onto this? Does anyone (Stuart?) know whats in that little box (circa 1990s)? Cheers MT
  17. I was out in my TR3a yesterday and after returning it to the garage noticed that the electric fan was still operating. It turns out that the thermo switch has failed and is shorting to earth permanently. I have ordered a new switch from Moss but has anyone else had the same problem. Part of the fun of ordering the new switch was getting the correct temperature range. Up until it failed, I have been very happy with how the cooling system is operating, the engine warms up quickly and the fan only seems to come on in traffic. "Simples", I thought, buy another like the one I had. The only problem was that when I looked up the invoice for the original order back in 2010 it states: IM50090 - Thermoswitch for 88 - 79C And when I look at the current Moss catalogue it shows that part number as being for a 86 - 81C 'switch, and it's out of stock. So I ended up ordering IM50120 which is the current listing for the 88 to 79 deg C switch. Hopefully it will work as well as the old one did. Rgds Ian PS Considering the limited mileage that the car does, the original switch hasn't lasted very well.
  18. Having successfully installed the new speedo cable I have now moved to the next issue! I have recently had installed a new radiator - old one was seeping. At the same time a heater control tap was installed as the PO has plumbed it in to run constantly on. Even in the non-event of a British summer we seem to be having it was excessively warm! So new rad (4lb rad cap) new heater plumbing what could possibly go wrong! Well first the hose from the stainless steel pipe running along the engine block kept blowing off. (Seems to have been sorted by roughing up the pipe to give the hose more grip - if this doesn't work I will resort to brazing on an olive to the end of the pipe!) The heater matrix started leaking! AHHHGGGGHHH!! Solution so far has been to remove heater completely and connect up the in & out pipes together (and turn off the flow using my nice new heater control tap!) Removing the heater unit was entertaining .......... Finally getting round to the question!: Is this a standard TR3 heater and mounting. It doesn't look like anything else I have found on the Forum! It has been mounted to the rear of the battery box with a plate to support it. It was installed in 1989 but may not have been new. It says it Smiths Model: R200 Code: FHR 2404 Researching options based on threads on the Forum I am minded just to replace the heater matrix with a Clayton one rather than replace the whole unit as it will involve less faffing about. I am just wondering if the new radiator installation has increased the pressure and triggered the demise of the heater matrix!
  19. No, please don't yawn! I know this has been discussed at length before - but we're all unique! (and yes I have reviewed previous posts first!) My issue is not with effective cooling when moving. With a small mouthed TR3 this is not an issue (or hasn't been yet!). However we are planning a continental tour next June and I don't want overheating in traffic to spoil it! The existing system is: no mechanical fan, narrow pulley conversion, a tweaked engine with SS extractor manifold which exudes heat and a new alloy radiator with an electric "sucker" fan which is manually operated (oh and interesting alloy blocks raising the rear of the bonnet by 1/2" to let heat escape). Under normal conditions (most recently the RBRR in very clement weather conditions) the engine probably runs cooler that it should ideally. But in traffic it rapidly becomes beastly! The fan will maintain the temperature gauge mid-way between "185" and "235" in the UK's mid-20's (Celsius - sorry mixing my units!) summers. I am less convinced how it will cope with higher temperatures, in queues in for example the Czech Republic and Germany. The current electric fan is mounted on brackets on the tubular cross member very close to the matrix - 1/4". In this position it is in direct line with the grill mouth. However there is about 4" of "un-sucked" radiator above this. Should I reposition the fan to what after all must be the hottest part of the radiator - i.e. the top? I am also planning to ceramic coat the manifold to reduce the engine bay temperature and reduce the fuel volatilisation. Looking at the small mouth's built-in ducting there is still daylight either side of the radiator that could be blocked off. Would further directing of airflow be of benefit in a stationary traffic situation? Would shrouding behind the radiator to direct all the air through the fan be beneficial? Would a pusher fan be better in traffic as it might huff the hot air through the engine bay and out through the raised bonnet? Has anyone had any experience of this issue on a TR3?
  20. Is this the right stuff ? No reference to Oats or barley
  21. Hello I am new to the forum having recently bought as TR3B. Since I got the car, I suspected the engine was running on a rather rich mixture as the car would start from cold without choke. So when I got a chance I pulled the plugs and found them to be black and soothy. I did not have time to do a full tune of the carbs, so I just gave the adjusting nuts both about half a turn to make the mixture leaner. Since then I have noticed two differences: 1. I need the choke for the first couple of minutes of driving (even though ambient temperatures here are 25-30 C here right now) and the engine is prone to stalling in the first 10 minutes of driving. 2. Engine temperature during driving has gone up significantly. Before it used to be at 185F, unless in stationary traffic. Now during driving it goes up to the next mark on the dial (half way between 185 and 230F). This causes the electric fan to kick in and I am assuming that then keeps it stable. I am rather surprised by the large impact on the engine temp the (small) adjustment in mixture has made. I will spend some more time tuning the carbs better today, however I was surprised by the large effect. Anybody have any experience, or thoughts to share? Thanks Ewald
  22. joste

    Over heating.

    HI all I have a overheating problem, I have tried flushing the system twice , but the strange thing is nothing ever comes out the drain plug on the engine only on the rad. If any body has any ideas would appreciate them. many thanks Steve.
  23. Hello fellow TR ers Being a very recent member of this forum I haven't read anywhere near all the posts concerning overheating, but there is a contributory factor not mentioned in the last two, but it is alluded to in a round about way by Bob in the last one. Bob said he removed his badges and spotlights. I gleaned the following snippet from an American lady who has a bit of a blog on her TR-ing adventures. I can't remember her name and have not been able to find her web page again, but credit goes to her. She points out that the holes in reproduction front grills are significantly smaller than the original factory grills and says that where at all possible we should keep our old battered aluminium one rather than buy a new shiny straight stainless(?) one. If I remember rightly she states that the smaller holes cause something like a 30% reduction in area through which air can flow through to the radiator. Such a reduction is going to make a big difference. So, if you have knocked out all the other possibilities, or even before you remove the cylinder liners to clean out the rust, and you have a new front grill, it's worth considering. Unfortunately her advice came too late for me as I no longer have my old battered one. I personally never throw anything out but someone else disposed of it on my behalf without my permission. No, it wasn't Mrs B. I haven't as yet had any overheating problems, touch wood, (he says tapping his head) but when you know this and look at the front of the car you realise it doesn't look right and that's why. I have thought about having a go at making a punch and die to enlarge the holes and doing them one at a time in a press. Perhaps when I have ticked everything else off the list. Cheers everyone, Tony
  24. Well, does anyone? I had one fitted to my MkII spitfire. I took it off when I sold the car, fitted it to a series one landrover, took it off when I rebuilt that and didn't put it back, and now am thinking about fitting it to the TR3. The problem is, if you don't leave it switched on all the time (and I don't know what that would do to the electricity bill) you have to plan in advance when you are taking the car out so you can turn it on or you don't get the benefit. If you have one fitted to your TR where did you put it? Tony
  25. Hi I am looking to get my TR2 long neck original radiator refurbished. It's leaking so a re-core is in order and clean/paint (probably eliminate the crank handle hole). Can anyone recommend anywhere that would do this in the Midlands - close to Stoke-on-Trent if possible? Is this the best way to go or is buying a new radiator a better option? What are the costs involved? Kind Regards Ade
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