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Found 119 results

  1. Yesterday I opened up mt 10" rear brakes to check the linings. They are worn out so I need some new shoes. In my manual, Autopress Workshop Manual. the linings do not full cover the metal shoe. I have never found these anywhere. So I plan to buy the best quality and modify them at home. I also note that my backplate has no hold down pegs. Maybe I have a later back plate with only a small post and no springs and cupped washers. The main question is where to buy the best brake shoes. Thanks Richard and B
  2. My front right caliper has started to have less effect. Car pulls to the left under braking and the front left wheel gets hot, right stays cold, after a couple of miles. I assumed either stuck caliper or in serious need of bleeding. I rigged a clear hose from bleed nipple clamped to top of hood, and dropping into a little container. Cracked the nipple and pump the brake, keeping an eye on the hose. All I’m seeing is very fine bubbles. More and more. The more vigorously I pump the pedal the more tiny bubbles come out. To the point it’s nearly foam. I PtFE taped the nipple to be sure it’s not air being dragged in. Also a few bigger bubbles rise into the reservoir. Is my system creating tiny bubbles somehow?
  3. Is replacing the above a big job ? It does not include discs/drum, just the master cylinder/servo and lines. I am having difficulty obtaining accurate quotes for this work as my mechanic is worried that to complete this work it might involve major time work, engine removal or the like. There is no guidance on hours required etc in Haynes. So, if you have completed this task, how long in hours might it take ? Many thanks in advance.
  4. Hi I'm refurbishing the master cylinder on my TR2, once I put the front plate on, the springs don't have enough 'spring' to return the piston when pushed in. The rubber seal at the end of the pushrod by the end plate seems to be the offending item, really, really tight to fit. Is this just a poor fitting repair kit or am I missing something/they are meant to be like that? Both sides are the same I've lubricated with fresh brake fluid etc, and the rest has gone together fine Also the bellow seems to have two retaining rings, I assume this are no longer available so was thinking I could just wire these on Any advise appreciated
  5. I have an ongoing problem with the rear brakes. The drums feel like they are square as you come to a halt. I have had the drums machined, and I have replaced the return springs and the holder springs on the shoes. I have fitted new retaining clips to the slave cylinders and greased them. The steel brake lines to the slave cylinders were replaced when the car was rebuilt. The brake shoes still do not seem to be retracting. I can adjust them with the adjusters so that the drum rotates freely but it seems that the first application of the brakes has them binding again. It seem like the slave cylinders are not moving freely. I had the backing plates powder coated when the car was rebuilt and I have done some sanding of the coating in case the thickness of that is stopping the cylinders from sliding. I am wondering whether the modern brake line is too stiff and is preventing the cylinders from moving. I seem to recall pictures of one model of Triumph where the brake lines were coiled before the slave cylinder which would allow more movement. Whatever the problem is, it also causes issues with the handbrake. All contributions gratefully received!
  6. When checking on rear brakes I discovered that the new brake cylinder had leaked and soaked the brake shoes . Brake shoes are so expensive as exchange parts, considering shipping from and to Sweden. Maybe someone knows where to buy just the lining and the rivets? I found at least 3 pores in the sealing area of the brake cylinder, compared it with and old saved cylinder and the old one looked better so I installed that one instead of buying a new. The old one has a more complicated design/better design with a separate piston for the handbrake and a spring behind the actual brake piston. Also discovered that I had fitted the backplate 45 deg wrong and the cylinder 180 deg wrong probably causing only one brake shoe working as the cylinder was unable to slide enough, fitted in that position (a bit ashamed now) And how it should look, used brake shoes nicked from (probably) an old Volvo, just adjusted the length in one end and drilled some new holes for the springs. Exactly same diameter and width.
  7. Does anyone know whether Princess 4 pot calipers fit the TR6? I have heard that this was a popular modification when there were still Princesses around (usually in breakers yards!) but I'm not sure what mods are required to make them fit. Any information much appreciated.
  8. A few years ago there was an article in the mag about improving handbrake efficiency by moving the fulcrum point closer to pivot point on the handbrake lever. I seem to remember Triumph recommended the mod for another model - Spitfire?? What location on the lever should the new hole be (closer to pivot point) be drilled? ( Diagram would help!) Is this an effective mod ? MARK
  9. Not sure how many forumites use the TRR main website BST facility, and having read a few comments about it, both positive and negative, I thought I would direct those who don't normally look to check it out, and if anyone wants an original Lockheed Master Cylinder, I have just listed one for sale. It was so much easier doing it via the forum........... Ian
  10. Any disc recommendations for 1109 and 1144 Mintex pads? Standard 209327, Slotted/Drilled, Brand? (Moss, TRW, EBC....) Jochem
  11. Hi Just managed to roll the chassis out of the garage since rolling it in over a year ago. Before and after pics below. Am now running brake and fuel lines. Does anyone have photos of where the brake line from rear comes to the front of the chassis? I'm unclear on where the join to the pipe connected to master cylinder should be. Should it be within the chassis c section (as Moss diagram implies) or bent up into engine bay (which is what I think I can see in the before photo below)? Similarly, does anyone have photos of where fuel and fuel return lines bend up at front and back of car? I found an old thread with some photos posted by Stuart but photobucket changes mean they're no longer visible. Thanks
  12. I've renewed everything on my brake and clutch systems. New discs, calipers, copper brake pipes and flexible s/s pipes. Which brake fluid should I use? When I fitted 'Coopercraft' four cylinder front brake calipers to my 1965 'E'-type Jaguar I was instructed NOT to use Silicon brake fluid ~ Why??? Tom.
  13. I've only had my car a week, the previous two owners had looked after it well but don't appear to have driven it much, I have all the MOT's and it shows an average of 51.5 miles/year over the last 12 years. Knowing this, I have to expect a few issues as I start to use the car, tonight I have been bitten by one. When I collected the car I noticed that the brakes worked but there was no pedal feel whatsoever, I visited TRGB yesterday and they recommended I fit a new brake master cylinder, I did this today and after bleeding all round 3 times, I had a nice firm pedal, I test drove the car and all was well, including some emergency stops, I took my wife out for lunch and, again, all was well. Tonight however, I managed to drive about 9 miles when the car suddenly started slowing down and the brake pedal was rock solid, on stopping the car I saw a lot of smoke coming from the OSF calliper. I called for a recovery truck and waited, after 90 mins or so, the brake pedal freed up and the car seemed to drive ok, I was recovered home and the car is now in the garage, not quite in disgrace as I'm not entirely surprised that this has happened. Obviously I'm going to need to replace this calliper (and other side perhaps?) I guess the pads will be toast too, but is there likely to be any effect to bearing grease etc?
  14. I took advantage of the almost springlike weather in Frome today to refit the rear axle to my TR3a today. Apart from the fact that it's a heavy old lump of iron and I'm not as young as I used to be, it all went reasonably well until it came to reconnecting the handbrake. Try as I might, I couldn't get the cable at the axle end to slot into the little welded bracket on the axle. In the end I ran out of time but does anyone know an easy way to do it or is it a case of having to disconnect the clevis at the front so that there is enough slack to allow it to be slotted into place. If anyone has an easy solution that avoids wholesale dismantling, I'd be delighted to hear it. I don't recall it being that difficult to remove. Rgds Ian
  15. Just a couple of contacts which might prove useful for others. Although these are a couple of years old now I think the companies are still going. I had two LT77 gearboxes rebuilt at Hardy Engineering in Leatherhead. The proprietor is clearly an enthusiast and cares about his customers and their needs. He has a mechanic who specialises in the LT77 and seems quite knowledgeable himself. One box was well chewed but the other needed only a light fettling. Both together cost me about £800 if I remember correctly. The internal oil pump mechanisms get replaced with brass components as a matter of course. https://www.hardyengineering.co.uk/ I also found a brake and clutch refurbishing company in Stourport on Severn. This company specialises in classic car brake components and supplies some of the big name suppliers who drop pallet loads of units off and have them refurbed in batches. However they are still happy to do one-offs for enthusiasts who contact them. I took a set of Princess calipers, a set of TR8 calipers and a Sherpa master cylinder for refurbishing. Stainless steel sleeves are used in the calipers, new seals as you'd expect and they come back in a gold finish. www.classiccar-brakes.co.uk/
  16. Nothing to do with me, but this isn't something I see very often . . . . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Girling-Restrictor-Valve-Discs-Triumph-TR3-TR4-TR4A-Old-Stock-but-untested/292392684380?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 Useful if you really want 100% originality ! Cheers, Alec
  17. As we all know the PI system requires manifold depression to operate correctly, and the manifold also has the brake servo claiming vacuum from it to boost the brakes. Has any one tried one of these electrically operated vacuum pumps instead of tapping from the manifold? Could kill two birds in one bush - boost brakes and not affect the manifold depression. https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/electric-vacuum-pump It says they are noisey in operation, so I would suggest mounting it in the boot with the Lucas fuel pump.....perhaps they would noise cancel (like my hearing aids) and there would be silence when driving. Cheers Peter W
  18. Hi all Would appreciate some help identifying a master cylinder - its a Girling with the numbers "875" and what looks like "64675575" cast on its side- photos below ( hopefully!) Any help much appreciated cheers Rich
  19. Is it correct to apply copper grease to the back of new brake pads? Tom.
  20. A couple of years ago I replaced my old but original brake reservoir because I was worried about it starting to leak. When I rebuilt the car I refurbished the original reservoir but it had quite a lot of rusting on the side that had reduced it to 'paper' thickness in places. The new repro reservoir started 'out of the blue' to leak a month or so ago just as we were about to move house and I have only just got around to removing it to fix the leak. I turns out that whereas the old reservoir was sealed by flat aluminium washers that were clamped firmly against the bottom of the can by the outlet unions, the new cans have an arrangement involving a nylon insert to the fitting attached to the bottom of the can and it was this insert/fitting that has given up the ghost. A quick search of the internet revealed that this is not an uncommon problem and on a Cobra Forum it said the solution was to use a product called Seal-All to seal the joint. Apparently it is resistant to everything including brake fluid. So I have some on order, hopefully to arrive tomorrow but in the meantime if you have a repro Girling reservoir be prepared for it to start to weep from the unions at the base. Another case of newer technology not always being better. Rgds Ian
  21. OK, you'd have thought I'd have learnt my lesson when it comes to fiddling with things I know little about, but I haven't and now find myself with a brake problem. As some might remember from a recent thread of mine, I was going to change my brake fluid, because what I had in there was at least 3 years old and quite probably a few years older. My brakes did seem to be working well and the fluid didn't look very dirty, but I thought better safe than sorry, so yesterday I set about the task. Never having done this before, I thought I'd read up on it, watch videos, buy the gear ... all I've which I did so I felt confident. Got the Easybleed kit, but couldn't get the proper cap (cheaply), so speaking with neighbor about it he said he had one of the vacuum type "bleeders" and said I could borrow it. So, watched the videos on it and seemed straightforward. Got to work, starting with bleed screw furthest from m/c. Fluid came out, but not in continuous flow, went to offside wheel, and the same happened. Yes, I'd removed old fluid from m/c first, but left some in their, and had then topped up with new. So, tried fronts (which are discs, drums at back), and they bled exactly how I thought they should. Fluid come out in continuous flow and went down in m/c, which I kept topping up. Soon fluid ran clear. All good then at fronts I think. OK, I thought, perhaps I'm not getting a good vacuum seal on the rears using this gadget, so I'll have a crack at the two person method. Pulled son away from video games, sat him in car, and told him to press brake as I loosened bleed screw and to lift when I tightened it. Again, some fluid came out in squirts, but not continuous flow and eventually it stopped coming altogether ... I'm now just getting air and brake pedal is spongy. We've done it over and over, but nothing. And yes, there's still fluid in the m/c ... that's just sitting there. Thankfully, one of our group members is going to pop over in the week and help, but I'd love to be able to fix it without putting anyone out. Have I made a simple error somewhere along the lines? Son said that when he pressed the brake pedal, that it went to the floor with the fronts, but only half way when I was working on the rears. Sometimes I just wish I could get a job right the first time
  22. Hello all... Let's try to keep this to ourselves (I don't want those Peerless guys getting wind of this) I've started restoring a 1960 3A I know, SPLITTER! I'm just asking in case there's a good resource/cheat sheet of 'sensible/practical modifications' for people doing a complete nut and bolt rebuild. Does anything want strengthening/beefing up/adding/cutting off (I'm talking about the car) etc on either the body/chassis ? Are there any well known weaknesses or failings (I'm talking about the TR...) that can be improved upon without spoiling the originality (noticeably)? (I'm certainly thinking about the rear crank rubber oil seal mod as no one would ever know except the people I get my driveway cleaning fluid from...) My chassis has already been powder coated (that was already done) and I intend to get the endoscope into the chassis tubes to preclude any nasty surprises later but now's the time to make any mods if any are necessary. I'm not aiming for bloody minded 100% originality to the absolute exclusion of every day practicality but I don't want to be adding ABS and IOBD2 either. The car will be used virtually every day in the same way I used my Warwicks/Peerlii in the past so it's got to be reliable and reasonably usable in modern conditions (i.e. crawling along at 2mph 50% of the time and having the suspension battered to death by 4" deep pot holes the other 50%. Once any modifications and repairs to the body/chassis are complete, my first job will be mounting the (etch primed) body on the chassis so that all the paint prep work can be carried out and panel gaps sorted. So for instance..... Where do I buy (or do I make) the best possible body mounting kit? I've seen talk on here of the old fabric impregnated rubbers being better, if this is true does anyone sell them? I'm sure I will have a million questions but I'll try to ask some of you in person as I look around all the 3A's at Malvern this year... Thank you for reading this far and if you have any comments that will be a great bonus! Jon
  23. All My brake lights stopped working this weekend. The fuse is good. Bulbs are good Tail lights work I have checked all the earth (body) connections I can find in the boot and cleaned / vaselined I have the brake light switch out and checked with a test light; it is working However, the switch looks old and feels fragile so I plan to replace it. I plan to buy Lucas or Intermotor, unless the forum suggests otherwise. . . . . suggestions? But . . . where else can I look for a resolution to the 'no brake lights' problem All advice gratefully received
  24. Good afternoon all Due in part to the previous Mr Bodger I have decided to replace all the brake pipes, basically to tidy them up and clip them properly I have bought new Kunifer piping manufactured to BS EN12249 rated IIRC to 3150 psi. (I will test this at work....just because!). However the end fittings! There are brass and what looks like plated steel available. What is the consensus on the best to use? And, as mine is a late model 6 I need metric end fittings for the calipers but what about the rest of the system? Cheers Dave
  25. The rear lights are now working - new base plate and bulbs to remedy the damage caused by the naff LED's. Q1 - to test the units when not fixed on the car I obviously needed to earth the socket - they weren't earthed before, should they be - the is a spare bullt on the plate which appears to be for an earth? The PO seemed to have relied on the screws through the base plate into the spire nuts for earthing ?? Q2 - still no brake light, even when the pedal is pressed hard, so going to replace the hydraulic switch. Can someone with my level of (in)competence replace it without having to bleed the brakes - is it a case of quick off, thumb over hole and quick on again ? The switch I have ordered is 21B291 (chassis No. 26000#) Moss doesn't seem to offer tapped or parallel options ? Also, I have read on other posts the suggestion of installing a copper washer - is there a specific type - again no suggestion in the boook. PS - Q3 - where will I find the switch on the car !
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