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Found 114 results

  1. What better to do on a scorching hot day than tune me carbs! Gave up with Colortune - wound both jets up to flat on the bridge then backed off 6 flats. Front carb was way off balance, now running well!
  2. So we take a 3.5 Rover V8 with a Webber 500/Holley carb and one of the big pancake filters that sits on the carb in the V above the engine. Its a good K&N one and appears to work fine apart from on hot days when all the thing is doing is sucking hot air from inside the Wedges engine compartment, not in anyway ideal for good performance. So we get a nice plenum from one of the V8 tuning specialists to sit on the carb, a length of 3" duct to run to in front of the radiator and a nice big Cone K&N filter to go on the end of the duct. Starts up nicely, cruises nicely, plant your foot in the floor and at about 3.5/4K rpm it starts to stumble unless you ease off. Bugger this isn't good what's the problem. Quick test reinstall original filter, problem goes away, so something in new set up is choking engine. First suspect is the new smaller plenum chamber, so just fit that with out duct and filter, works perfectly. OK must be the meter long ducting just wont flow enough air, so fit plenum and duct, works perfectly. Fit K&N filter to duct, problem comes back! OK so a few measurements show that the original pancake K&N has a surface area of around 110 sqin and the new big round one has a surface area of about 85-90 sq in. This is just visible measured surface area not including all the convolutions which must at least double the total area. So a 3" round duct with a area of approx 7sq in will flow more than enough air, but a massive K&N Cone Filter with a surface area of 85 sq in (and probably double that) just wont flow enough air to keep up! Always wondered why those V8 pancakes were so big, thought it was bling factor not that the filters were useless. So going to make my own long tubular one with a cover of KTG filter foam, and I'll bet it will work a treat. So new useless £45 K&N filter heading for the bin! unless any one want's one. Alan
  3. Grinnal

    SU Carbs

    Hi Folks Can anyone recommend a garage that is good with SU carbs in the Dudley / Wolverhampton area? Thanks Mike
  4. Hi All, I am looking for some advice , I have a US 1969 TR6 that had been converted to right hand drive, during the conversion a set of HS6 SU have been fitted, the choke cable from the old cards does not reach the choke connector for the first SU (nearest the bulk head ) Given the cost of replacement cables can anyone advise which one is best to order? Thanks Mike
  5. A very hot spell leads me to wish the 3A would do better mpg. It went to a local sports car garage and the SU tuner had his own way for the adjustment of the needles in the SU H6. It ran very smoothly and off to Lincoln and back. The roads are rough, crowded and the M11 north of junction 14 was a huge building plot with a 1 hour traffic jam.At the show my friend balanced the two carbs with a Gunson balancing tool and then checked the mixture with 4x colortunes. On the return journey we are over 30mpg. Rest days before setting off for CLM The son-in-law cancelled at the last moment so drive alone from Lewes to Portsmouth, meet the friends and ferry across the channel to Caen, Quiet drive to Le Mans on beautiful empty roads without traffic or potholes.. On arrival the s-i-l calls to confirm a late start and an independent journey to Portsmouth and then Caen. So erect the tent and back up north to collect him and drive down a second time. This time I find the entrance first time. England win the match and the new inflatable bed works first time. fabulous race cars and lots of French registered Triumph cars. An excellent two days with amazing cars and atmosphere. Set off on Sunday lunchtime to drive to Dieppe for a booked crossing to Newhaven and home early !!! Caught the ferry and arrived in Newhaven about 50 yrds from the dock.when we are informed that something on the landside ramp is broken and we have to turn around and have to return to Dieppe. Arrive back and leave immediately for Calais to Dover ferry. Check in at 03.59 ,leave at 04.15 and back home by 08.30. In all a 20 hour trip and crossed the channel three times in one journey.. The car runs very well but did get hot once. Why does the tick over need adjusting after a very hot traffic queue for the boat ? Back in the garden the engine is smooth and there is no need to adjust the carbs any more. A mileage check every time we fill up gives some good figures. One fill of French best giving high thirties for casual cruising. So, tune it x2, drive just under 1,500 miles in a week and the car is running very well and reliable hot starting. The owner is totally worn out. Triumph wins again
  6. I am currently driving a Kent 270 cam Duration 270 Timing 37/63 73/27 Cam Lift 7.44mm After about 4.200 the torque curve starts sloping down, max HP @ 5.355 I called Newman Cams and showed them this curve. They recommend Duration 280 Timing 30/70/70/30 Cam Lift 7.36MM So this is a PH2 with PH3 Cam Lift. It should increase the rev range at the top end and not loose any power at the bottom end. Take a look at the Kent 280 version. Question: Should I get a customized Newman cam, or get the Kent 280 cam. Any opinions? Jochem
  7. Well my simple head off project from last year has ended up with a complete engine rebuild and in inline rebore. So I now have the pleasant prospect of putting it all back together with a new sprint cam, unleaded head conversion etc etc. Its been a while since my Webers were tuned and I am sure that all these changes will need some fine tuning. So the question is do I bother with a rolling road or just a good old fashioned tune up? I live near Reading so any recommendation is this area much appreciated. I should also put in a word for Classic and Modern based in Bracknell who dropped everything to get my rebore on the crank and cam finished in three days! Hopefully the car and I will be ready for the trip to the Le Mans Classic.
  8. Hi Folks, Another question which I can't get my head around. My car as a late TR4 [July 1964] is displaying strange combustion. Twin CD175 Strombergs are fitted. Numbers 1 & 4 spark plugs look as if the mixture is leanish, whereas numbers 2 & 3 look as if the mixture is too rich! How can the front carb create lead cylinder lean and trailing [#2] cylinder rich, and the rear carb create lead [#3 cylinder] rich and trailing [#4] cylinder lean? To my amateurish eye, it just doesn't make sense! Best wishes Willie
  9. So Finally getting round to doing a few jobs. One of the things I have read for years is regarding how you should get a properly designed kit and anything else is dangerous and blah bla. So My 5 has had a bosch pump for 30 years. It doesnt have anything fancy just a 580254973 pump which was superseeded by the 910. It doesnt have a bosch filter just low down in the boot and with the CAV filter and it has done many many miles of hard driving here in the alps without ever missing a beat. So sorry folks when I read stuff about you will damage your car and stuff I am not very convinced as I am living proof. The original system was deigned to feed 6.89bar @72,74 Lph. The Bosch I have feeds 5bar @130 Lph. Just about every Bosch pump feeds 5b (some 3b) Some of the differences are in the consumption and I have no idea why a 910 pulls 1amp more than a 909. Now I am not sure how all this converts as it would appear that the Bosch pressure is too low but what can I say, they work. Maybe someone wiser than me can explain? Anyway back to the point. due to a layup without fuel my pump seal has gone and its leaking so its time to change. I have a 580254933 someone gave me and I am going to try it out as I cant find any info regards the specs, worst case either she wont run at all or will not ave power at top end, unlikely its dangerous as I said before in theory its rare to have pumps that are more powerful than the Lucas. Would be great if someone knows where to find the specs of the 933 (Saab 900 I believe) to see but if not I will try it. For those interested all the info point to virtually all the pumps we are interested in being standardised to the 909 and 910 which have similar specs so all this talk about you need our kit as its the only safe one has me wondering if its not marketing? For those of you interested I have also found a Marelli pump with similar specs at about 1/5th of the Bosh price. Interested to hear from anyone who has actually tried the combinations or knows the effects of changes in Lpm (what most of the Bosch do when specs change) I have been collecting quite a bit of info so for those of you interested here are some links. http://www.tr6pi.com/Lucas%20Petrol%20Injection.pdf Page 8 shows lucas fuel specs http://www.leicestertr.co.uk/Part%20Numbers_files/pumps.pdf Range of pump numbers as published by Peter Winn many years ago. https://www.auto-doc.it/magneti-marelli/7613355 Marrelli pump 6b @120lpm very cheap......It does look identical to my 973 and at that price I am tempted to get one to try. https://www.boschfuelpumps.com/B.htm list of bosh specs Last but not least the 2 lists of Bosch cross reference numbers. Second one is easy to read https://www.boschfue...er Guide .htm http://www.guzzitek....sReferences.pdf If anyone has info on the 933 pump I am interested the last link shows the Saab 900 as a 909 so I am hopeful...So meanwhile I am going of to play Tony P.s. I have been doing a lot of research on oils and do you know that some very well done test charts showing oil resistance I have found actually point to all the chat about zinc and stuff as not being too relevant and not as worrying as some people might think. Gonna post it now separately.
  10. Farly6

    Petrol Smell!

    I have been trying to sort out this issue for ever and getting no where fast! So I'm appealing for help. I have tried to find a discussion forum about this but cant.. so here goes. I am the owner of a late model UK CR TR6, which has standard fuel injection and a fast road cam. It has the twin tail pipe sports exhaust. The problem is that the boot is constantly smells of petrol. Its so bad that you cant really put bags in the boot. I have replaced many of the pipes around the Bosch fuel injection pump, fitted proper petrol pipes and petrol clips and the seals in the tap in the bottom of the fuel tank. So I'm wondering what I should do next, I thought it could be replace the exhaust to a Phoenix Big Bore exhaust system which will over come the exhaust fumes into the cockpit etc. or alternatives change the fuel tank. or both... Thought comments would be greatly appreciated. Am I missing something?
  11. Hi all, I've been meaning to get the engine tuned, and injection properly set up on my TR6 for a while!.. Finally started to look around for a 'specialist' place that could do this in the area.. Around Sandhurst, Berkshire.. Or a reasonable distance. Does anyone know of anywhere that can set them up properly, and can recommend? Many thanks in advance.. Richard
  12. Hi, I am looking for some help and this is my first foray into the TR Register Forum. My TR6 seems to be running lumpy/hesitant from idle up to around 2.5k revs. Throttle response doesn't seem to be as crisp as it was before. The car was running fine, sat for maybe 4/6 weeks without a proper drive out then developed this problem. Higher up the rev range it seems to sound okay. I have a coolant leak from somewhere front nearside which I think may be the top hose but thats a seperate issue which should be easily found/fixed and possibly unrelated to the above. I am new to the classic car world and would very much appreciate some help and advice. Also if someone has experienced a similar problem. Prior to me inheriting the car off my grandfather he had mentioned the plugs get quite sooty upon inspection at MoT. I am very much into cars/classics but I am ashamed to say that my technical knowledge is lacking and didn't get enough time with my grandfather to learn about the mechanical side. Bodywork I am good with as that was his trade. Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
  13. I admit that I have been a so called expert hahahaha on the PI system since the age of 9 when my father picked up his new CP TR6 directly at the factory at Coventry in 1970. Sitting in the back of the smelly car accompanied by the whine of the Lucas pump I learnt a lot from the start.o By the age of 15 I was already tinkering, trying to cool pumps and checking injectors. By 21 I was well into vacuum gauges and fuel pressures. So While waiting for some parts to arrive I thought I would open up a metering unit I have swapped out. It was leaking fuel from the datum cover. I have always tuned the PI on the fly (I cross the Alps a lot and Colle Della Bonette at 2650m is Europe's highest and the PI splutters). I rarely choose a pass of less than 2,000m and you need to counter the rich effect of the vacuum. So for once I thought I would have a go at the unit myself instead of sending it back to the UK. As It was leaking I was convinced it was a Diaphragm. But both the unit and distributor ones are fine. So I would like to hear from someone who has overhauled a unit as I would like to try and see myself. FYI Unit had Red springs in it and already there I suspect thats thats not right. The unit always ran rich at idle even when I tuned it down and I think that is due to those springs being for the Tr6 CP which has the idle screw. I would also like to hear from someone who has an idea why fuel was leaking out of the datum cover if both the diaphragms are ok? The unit also turns over ok and hold vacuum with track movement on suck etc. If it wasnt such a pain taking the unit of and on due to the dreaded third bolt I would love to road test settings other than the top screws. The Lucas manual says to take it all off via the pedestal, but I have always been worried going that route due to end float stories. Although the manual doesnt seem concerned. Thanks Tony
  14. Having recently fitted a Pertronix set up to my TR3a, I have been experimenting with the timing. I indexed the front pulley when I rebuilt the engine so it is a fairly straightforward task to check the timing with a strobe - I don't have one of the fancy modern ones that allows you to read it off the light. I have set the plug gaps to 32 thou and have found that the engine runs best and at its smoothest with a nice clean pick up from low revs and no pinking with the timing set to 10 deg. BTDC at idle (800 rpm) with the vacuum advance removed. My calculated CR is 9.2:1 and I am using Shell V-Power fuel. However what has interested me is the change in the exhaust note as the timing is altered. When I tried setting it to 15 deg. BTDC the sound became a much more aggressive sounding 'bark' and the engine wouldn't pick up cleanly from low revs, it kept misfiring. I moved it back progressively to the point where it ran best which was the aforementioned 10 degrees. Does any expert out there know why the exhaust tone would change when the timing is advanced? Rgds Ian PS The Pertronix appears to do just what it says on the tin, timing mark is rock solid steady using the strobe and the engine runs as sweet as a nut with a nice even tick over. PPS Whilst the mixture (as evidenced from the plug colour) is spot on at cruise, at idle it is too rich - I am using SM needles and red springs in HS6 carbs - what would be the options for addressing this?
  15. I know there have been a few threads about this, but guys Im desperate! I have a 1973 car which was brought back from the USA in the 90's and was converted to PI with a donor engine from a 1971 CP car. Ive owned it for the last 17 years, with hardly any issues- superb tick over, good responsive acceleration. Last year it was beginning to run a bit lumpy bottom end on acceleration, so I took it to a rolling road. All was going well, until the mechanic started playing with the throttles, and sprayed carb cleaner on the butterflies. Then he commented that he couldnt adjust one of the sets of butterflies as the slotted end of the throttle rod was damaged. Anyway at the end of it I had a once perfectly ticking over car, ticking over at 1300rpm. I wasnt happy, but he said it would calm down with use. It didnt. I realised having read on here that cleaning them is a big mistake. I also realised that the broken throttle rod needed replacing. I then realised that the exact replacement of the original was not available from Rimmer or Moss. I did some research and ended up buying some ball jointed type rods from Revington TR, these seemed like the sensible option. I bought myself a syncrometer and fitted the rods. I did manage to get the butterflies reasonably synced, but as soon as the car got really hot, the throttle would start to stick. Many calls to revington (who were super helpful) but nothing seemed to sort the sticking throttle. As soon as the rods got hot- just too much friction! I even tried beefier springs on the throttle return, but it spoiled the control and still wouldnt stop the sticking issue. I also noticed that with the the ball and socket design the whole linkage could move laterally- not good. Ive ditched those and found some exact copies of the originals supplied by TR GB. These have instantly cured the sticking throttle, but I just cannot get the butterflies syncing. With the butterflies fully closed the car is ticking over with the airbleed screw fully closed. The hoses are all new and snug. If i use the cigarette paper method to set the butterfly gap, starting on cylinders 5/6 then working to 3/4 the 1/2 the car ticks over at 2000rpm and they dont seem very well synced. I notice that the design of this thing is flawed, because as soon as you get one right, then move on to the next, by adjusting the next it throws out the first. They dont work that independently- its a bloody nightmare! Ive used the synchrometer/ weber tool method too and have managed to get cylinders 6, 3 and 1 (as per the manual) all giving the same reading at 1500 rpm, but when I drop the revs down, the thing is practically stalling when increase the throttle, horrible throttle response. It makes no sense at all. I have noticed that each set is giving slightly different readings on the syncrometer, most noticeable on 3/4 where at the lowest readings im getting 11/2 on cylinder 3 and 3 on cylinder 4. These discrepancies cant be helping! The other thing Im noticing is that if I build the revs slowly and then back off the throttle completely, its taking a long time for the revs to come down, unless I blip the throttle. Im getting very frustrated with this and im unsure what to do next. Am i doing something blatantly wrong, or do all my throttle bodies need rebuilding?? The workshop manual procedure is about tweaking an existing set up, but when you are putting in new rods its like starting from scratch. I know the whole thing is flawed, so maybe an overhead linkage might be the best option and it will get those rods away from the searing heat of the exhaust? if anyone can help, I would be sooooo grateful. Thanks in advance.
  16. Here's a pdf of the talk: https://supertrarged.wordpress.com/2017/07/10/how-does-an-su-carburettor-work/ There's information about SUs ( and Stromberg CDs) that will probably be new even to most SU experts: 'mixture spread'. ======== May I thank those of you who braved the sauna-like conditons in the Friesen Shed. And may I apologise that you could not hear me. I do not have a loud voice and the PA for the arena defeated my best efforts. In my defence I had requested months before that a lapel mic and amp-loudspeaker be provided. It was not there. So I have suggested to the powers that be that the club invest in its own portable kit, along the lines of that owned by our local U3A (membership about 400). For me it was a disappoiting experience having spent several hundred hours trying to fathom SUs and at least 100 constructing the talk. In 2015 the organisation of the Malvern facilities was impeccable ( thank you Ian again) Something has gone wrong this year. I'm not sure I'd want to repeat last Saturday's experience at Lincoln 2018. Peter
  17. All details are in buy sell trade on main club website.
  18. Hi there, I am looking to have the engine from my TR4a rebuilt (along with the gearbox) and would ask if anyone can highly recommend any specialist they have used over the past few years - preferably in the Oxfordshire/Berkshire area - although not essential if it's the right person. If anyone has had a full new rebuild, an indication on cost and time it took? Obvosuly every case is individual, but a ballpark would be nice to know. Thanks in advance Paul
  19. FULL KIT .... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/352062397035?
  20. Back with more engine/ignition/fuel issues – seems never to end J The car fires (not easily) up, but will not idle. Unscrewing/open/lock the air supply from air manifold have no impact. The plugs are getting black/carbonized after very few minutes of running. So I guess running over-rich. I have not measured any vacuum anywhere. I’ve measured the balance of the butterflies, they are closing fine and produce fairly equal readings. 1. Since the MU is rebuild by Prestige injection, I assume the settings are right. I’m reluctant to adjust the mix on the MU. But I will if I have to. 2. Could the fuel filter on/at the Bosch pump be causing such problem, if it has gone bad. It’s not that old, though. 3. The PRV is new as well – if it allows for too much pressure (not measured) will it give an over-rich mixture? I haven’t really thought that question through, so apologies if stupid. 4. Ignition timing seems to be ok – started at 12 dgr static BTDC. Could be air leaks on the vacuum hoses. They are all new. Any suggestions? Engine: ’71 2.5PI w/sprint90 cam Ign: Flametrower, pro rebuild dizzy Fuel: Pro rebuild MU, all new injectors, good spray, Bosch pump
  21. I've had my TR6 for 15 years now, after buying a partly stripped down but relatively solid car. It was garaged in 1985 by the previous owner and remained there until I bought it in 2002. I then garaged it and over the years gathered some parts while missing out on many more and getting the welding and strengthening done. I got a bit lost in my desire to get the car back on the road mainly caused by time, money and a lack of skill and knowledge. My dad rebuilt the engine and stripped down the front suspension and steering. Unfortunately he became ill and was unable to finish this job off before passing away almost four years ago. This car was to be a project we shared but for various reasons was never really to be. I reached a point at the beginning of this year where I accepted an offer for the car. A week before it was due to be sold my mother-in-law passed away, bringing back the feelings of losing my dad and the project we never completed. It made me realise how much I'd regret selling the car without finding out how much it'd cost to get back on the road and usable. The key word here is usable, not concourse. Off I went to get some estimates to see if it was doable by firing off a few emails with some detailed photos and a list of the work I wanted doing. I had an immediate response from one restorer (and supplier of parts) of £50k - this same company had a full nuts-and-bolts restoration on their website for £35k, so I could've sold mine, bought this and still be £15k to the good. The next company viewed the car in-person and proposed £12-15k for the reassemble and £8k for prep and respray. A third viewed and gave an estimate of almost £12k for prep and respray and no real estimate for reassembly but an hourly rate for labour and a 6 months timescale. I'd pretty much given up at this point and was almost on the verge of going back to selling it. I've got a company coming on Monday and another local company who aren't "TR experts" but have both brought TRs back to road use who've quoted between £3 and £3.5k for prep and respray - to a daily use standard - and have indicated they can complete the reassembly within my budget, based on their past experience. It looks like I'm heading towards getting the car back on the road and actually driving it. If you're still reading at this point, the main reason for my post is to find out if £3 - £3.5k seems good for prep and respray and what your estimates would be to reassemble everything after a respray, including fitting the gearbox and engine and rebuilding the front suspension and steering. Also, I've got a shopping list of parts that I'll need and wonder if anyone can point me in the right direction for them or if you have any of them you no longer need. I'm in North Staffordshire so would be willing to travel around a 25-30 mile radius. It's an early (first 500) 1972 CR 125bhp car. Cooling System Water Pump and Pulley Air Duct and fitting kit Electrical Battery box linertray, Battery hold down kit Battery cable kit Lumenition Magnatronic Ignition System Full Wiring loom assembly Engine Engine mountings Fuel System PI fuel pump kit, 'Bosch' type cylindrical pump Fuel pipes Braking System Brake pipes Interior Boot liner kit, PI model and fitting kit Boot Mat, carpet, nylon, PI models, black and fitting kit Gearbox tunnel, fitting kit and seal Trim kit, coarse grain vinyl, black and fitting kit Dashboard, matt finish walnut (preferably) veneer, RHD Seat belt kit MX5 heated black leather seats (wife has insisted on heated!!)and seat runners/adapters Hood Hood frame rivet and washer, plain Seal and channel kit Hood webbing kit Black vinyl roof cover Miscellaneous Front spoiler Matching lock set (doors, boot and cubby) with key Ignition cylinder and key If anyone fancies a trade I've got two sets of driver and passenger seats from a 1969 TR6 although both sets have holes to the driver side outer edge and are likely to need refurbing. I've also got an MG prefix Triumph 2500cc engine ready for refurbing although still turns by hand. Thanks, Steve
  22. Hi Guys, I'm planning to fit my TR6 PI with the 123 ignition distributor (number 8898 without vacuum port). As you know, it has 16 pre-memorized curves selectable by a rotary switch. My car configuration is basically stock CP 150bhp, original Lucas injection, fitted with a sport exhaust. By watching the original ignition curve of the lucas 22D distributor on the manual, the most similar curve of the 123 distributor seem to be the number 0 (zero). There is someone with more experience than me that it's using my same configuration? Which curve you have chosen on 123 ignition?
  23. The winter project is to remove the 2 x H6 SU and send them away to a specialist for rebuilding. Please send me the supplier who has given you a good service. If someone has let you down send me a PM Thanks Richard & H ( sunny and bright in Sussex)
  24. I have a 1962 TR4, which is in almost standard form that I have owned for nearly 18 months. This winter I am going to have a number of items uprated / changed to increase reliability and performance. I have found searching the forum and reading Roger Williams book ‘How to improve TR2-4A’ very useful. Now to the question at hand, having looked at different options for more performance, would a swap to the Dolomite Sprint engine be feasible and has anyone done it before? I have seen a thread on using a Dolomite gearbox in a TR6, so I’m guessing that using a TR4 gearbox with overdrive on a Dolomite engine is not too much of a problem? I know that I could get good performance out of the standard TR4 engine, but that does come at considerable cost so I have been looking at the alternatives and this option so far looks interesting. Thanks Chris
  25. Hello everyone I am looking for some tips and experience: I have decided I need a performance upgrade for the TR3B. I am not building a race car, several reasons, amongst others Swiss rules for making changes to classic vehicles. So, I am aiming for a ca 20 bhp increase and don't want to do a full rebuild. The car is also prone to running hot, and since Summer's can be hot here and of course there are plenty mountain roads around here to enjoy, so I am also looking to address the lack of cooling capacity. Here is what I am planning: - Stage 2 or 3 flowed head - Extractor manifold and free flow exhaust - Uprated (6 fin) water pump - Oil cooler Questions: - There is not much price difference between a stage 2 or 3 head, any reason not to got for the stage 3? - Out of convenience I am considering buying the head from Moss. Does anyone have any experience with these? - What compression ratio should I am for. The Moss once come set up for 9.5:1? - Anybody have any experience with roller rockers? What sort of performance increase would you expect from that with the standard head? Cheers Ewald
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