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  1. Hi All... following a nice day out in the car last week, I stopped for a coffee and when I came back out it wouldn’t start. The key was simply turning in the ignition switch! Looking at the back of the switch I could see that the brown wire had melted the insulation at the spade connector. This must have been an issue for a while as the innards of the switch had perished too! New switch ordered but 2 questions: 1) What would cause this to overheat? A bad connection I assume but is it safe to assume that was down to a failing switch or problem elsewhere? 2) In replacing the
  2. Welcome to this collection of pamphlets, TR Owners Manuals, posters, articles, and competition books by Kastner, Vizard, Williams, and a link to a collection of articles on TerriAnn's website. Plus more new additions, whenever spotted. NB. Changing date (above) indicates latest addition. We must thank an American TR enthusiast who kindly allowed me to access his collection and make it available here. I am grateful to Paul Anderson who sent me the link. I must point out that it was originally compiled by Randall Young, a long-term owner of TR3As and Triumph Stags in Southern Californ
  3. Hi All.... been a while since I was on here but need some advice on what I am sure is an easy question (if you know the answer!) My passenger side headlight went really dim a couple of days ago. I assumed the bulb was on its way out so replaced it - but the replacement(s) are just as dim. Given that, my next assumption is that it must be a loose/poor connection somewhere. Does that sound reasonable? If not, can anyone shed any light on the subject?
  4. As the title says i had a problem fitting the four seasons heater valve, the old one came out with no issue, I fitted the new one with some thread sealant even the rubber pipe went back on just fine, But I wasn't sure how tight to do it up, and so as the thread sealant says you can reposition up to four hours I thought I'll tighten it some more to be sure, that's when I noticed the valve would no longer turn with the lever! I took it off again and I can't see where I've bent or pinched the housing, but it didn't take a lot for the top part to start spinning instead of the valve inside, so
  5. This should keep you busy Please add on 1/ New type Kenlowe fan
  6. Help! ive removed the front offside ball joint as the gaiter was perished and the joint itself wasn’t in great nick Attempting to install the replacement which I thought should be easy enough but I can’t tighten the nyloc which holds the ball joint to the vertical link - the joint itself turns as well as the nut! I had assumed the fitting was tapered and would self grip - an I doing something wrong or could I have been sent the wrong part? I bought it from ANG classic car parts and it claims to be for a TR6 - part number GSJ131 (same as Rimmers) Any suggestions gratefully
  7. This question is popular on other forums and I couldnt find anything on here so I thought I'd start..........better if you can show pictures. Today Ive fitted a firewall to my TR4. Not that bad to fit but not sure what level of seal is acceptable/advised.
  8. Hi All Car lifts. Just wondering what solutions everyone had come up with? Now its not just a TR thing as i do have a couple of other oldish steeds on the fleet that i need to look after, but i'm considering something i can use on the TR as i've still got some plumbing to do underneath, but i've also go the Wife's (cough cough) MG TF to look after and at 15 years old it needs a fair bit of fettling, with suspension and rust problems to sort, subframe and suspension rust as the body is almost immaculate, they were pretty good at the end. But only having a domestic garage and nar
  9. Hi All I know this one has been discussed before but this is more of a technical question rather than an opinion. So my 1972 TR6 is off the road at present undergoing a long term restoration. As its now MOT exempt do I need to MOT it when finished or do I just remove the sorn declare it MOT exempt and tax it? If the latter is ok how long does that process take and can I commence it prior to it being finished or is it still illegal to go through that process with a car which could not pass an MOT despite it sitting in my garage and there being no intention of it being on the roa
  10. After lavishing money, time and effort on my 1972 TR6 this year in a number of areas. Famously eliminating my age old fuel smell problem and more significantly cash spent on my 132k miles engine to breathe new life into it. As well the gear box being extracted for primarily a noisy first gear, the lay shaft bearing had landed up in the overdrive with no additional damage thank goodness. All back together with a new clutch to suit. Whilst fettling with the cars induction over the past week or so to get things just right, I noticed the clutch master cylinder had dropped to almost empty, however
  11. Hi guys, Thanks for all the helpful posts I've already learnt from. As a relatively new 6 owner here, and I want to check my thrust washers as a preventative measure. I've searched through many threads on here and have got a good idea now, but I wanted to list it out to make sure I've got it right. 1) using a Dti gauge measure the current end float (push pulley in, press clutch to push out) 2) if above reveals wear over minimum, drain oil, remove sump, bearing cap and take out TW's and check (if possible) what size were fitted. 3) if I can see what size were fitted
  12. Hi everyone. Just discovered that there doesn't appear to be info in the TR4 Workshop Manual on how to adjust the accelerator pedal screw. It is referred to in the Manual - P1.306, Fig 11, Items 23 & 24. However, nothing as to the correct setting. The excess thread sticks out rather a long way from the scuttle panel. See pics attached. Does anyone have a starter figure? Best wishes Willie.
  13. Hi All, I am hoping someone will pick this request up and confirm a point of confusion before my TR4 gets the gearbox overhaul completed. WHICH WAY ROUND DOES THE CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING GO? Does the larger diameter flat face point outwards from the bellhousing as the original TR4 Workshop Manual illustrates? That is how the bearing is set currently, but in the next couple of hours we will either commit to that or have to open the assembly up and swap it round. I hope this reaches an authority on the subject in time!! Best wishes Willie
  14. I've often been asked about drain keys or spanners, many folks don't even know what one looks like . . . . . after all, they're not something you get in the average socket set, and very much a thing of the past. Nevertheless, a damn useful bit of kit when you need one. Here's an example of one on the 'bay . . . . nowt to do with me, I'm just trying to be helpful ! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-MELCO-DPW-3-SUMP-GEARBOX-AXLE-DRAIN-PLUG-KEY-SPANNER-/142539416782?epid=2038095214&hash=item213002e4ce:g:2UQAAOSwx6pYoGAT Cheers Alec
  15. So I have a temporary garage at the moment its very tight spaced so I bought one of those easy tanks that are only 8cm high for collecting oil from sump so I could work from the front of the car with only the need to raise my Tr5 a couple of inches. Like a wally I didnt think to remove the second plug to on it to speed air out and so the rush of oil overdid the flow into the collector. Now I have about a litre of nice black oil on the concrete floor of the garage.... I have googled ways to clean ranging from WD40 to Coca Cola. Anyone got some magic solution for removing the foot square st
  16. Why is it so difficult to fit the heater? I had the motor overhauled and cleaned up the rest of it. Trying to make it fit back in is very hard. The bracket which attaches to the bulkhead behind the battery seem to hold the heater too low. I removed the dashboard stay and fitted the heater back in but it needed a lot of leverage to replace the stay. After a while lying on your back under the dashboard, begins to lose it's appeal. This is not a complicated job but I am obviously doing it the wrong way. Any advice would be very useful Almost ready for Drive it Day. Thanks Richar
  17. Bought a couple of new trunnions today just to sling in my parts bin. However Mr Moss does 2 types, a 'proper' one and a 'replacement' obviously there is a price difference and me being me went for the more expensive option! So the questions are: What IS the difference between the two? (how would one know that a 'cheap' one hadn't been put into a bag marked with the more expensive option!) Hypothetical question!! I note that the bottom has a steel base, is that correct? ROGERRRRRR one for you! Dave
  18. Does anybody have experience with this company please. http://www.jlspares.com/
  19. Hello, having a good clearout of stuff I no longer need or in this case, have never used, brand new King Dick sockets and extensions for use with an impact driver, all imperial British Made, excellent Quality, Brand New 3/8" drive sockets, 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", 3/4" all six point in black industrial finish 3/8" drive deep sockets 7/16", 1/2", 9/16" 2 Extensions 1 1/2" and 3" He named the tool firm after his dog if you were wondering, £40 including postage, grab a bargain!! Cheers, Andrew Now Sold
  20. Hello everyone, I would really appreciate some points of view on this topic. I rebuilt my '71 TR6 using original parts in 1989. It has not done a whole lot of miles since and stood for extended periods while we lived overseas. I have now passed the car on to my son and am giving him some assistance in swapping in a replacement gearbox. As a matter of course we are replacing the clutch (well having the Laycock unit re-manufactured by Precision Clutch), release bearing etc. plus any other pieces that make sense 'while I am there'. I have two questions: 1) The original gearbo
  21. Good Morning Guys, I am looking at changing my choke lead (Triumph TR6 Pi 1970) it has a single cable going to the MU is it possible to change just the inner cable and if so what cable would you recommend. Plus any tips on how to do this, thanks
  22. MARK

    Heater motor

    Currently have dash and under dash stripped out on my 73 tr6 to get at the dreaded rot around the drains on the heater plenum. So it would be a good time to sort out my heater !! The heater motor sounds a bit weary and I will be checking the matrix. Has anyone sourced a better motor ( 2 speed) or had experience of uprated motor from the usual suspects - Ross and Mimmers ? The same for the matrix ! I would like to get heater sorted for once and for all as I don't want to go through this excavation again !
  23. I've had my TR6 for 15 years now, after buying a partly stripped down but relatively solid car. It was garaged in 1985 by the previous owner and remained there until I bought it in 2002. I then garaged it and over the years gathered some parts while missing out on many more and getting the welding and strengthening done. I got a bit lost in my desire to get the car back on the road mainly caused by time, money and a lack of skill and knowledge. My dad rebuilt the engine and stripped down the front suspension and steering. Unfortunately he became ill and was unable to finish this job off be
  24. Hello All trying to use the power of the internet and the Tr Register to get some history on my car I am wondering if anyone knows anything about the history of my car when i got the car all i was given was a Heritage cert a few docs and the logbook i would speak to my local group but as the car has had 14 owners not sure that would get any results was hoping someone would recognise the reg number and know a little bit about where its been serviced etc etc the car had some work done recently as its in very good condition for a car stood for so long so someone must k
  25. So after years and years of the unleaded situation I was wondering if there are definitive articles on all the unleaded saga? Both my CP Tr6 and Tr5 have been running on unleaded with a dash of castrol valvemaster without any conversions for about 20 years now right? Recently I swapped out a metering unit for a torn diaphragm which has more to do I suspect has more to do with me leaving the system dry for 6 months, I also just replaced a broken rocker on N°2 valve which is an inlet valve not exhaust anyway. So where is all the worry? 20 years hard driving expecting to face the unleaded dev
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