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  1. The clutch saga continues. The box is now out and there seems to be reasonable amount of oil on it. Some of this is engine oil which I suspect has climbed out of the dipstick on the ignition side of the engine due to the inadequate closed circuit breathing system. But there is definitely some EP90 too. Not much but some. I will obviously check the breather hole, but is it worth going round and tweaking up the gearbox to overdrive nuts & bolts as there seems to be a bit of seepage here? Apart from to the casing or threads can I damage the OD by over tightening these?
  2. Hi Folks, The gearbox/overdrive is coming out of TuRK tomorrow to sort some oil leaks - having taken the speedo drive out I was expecting to find an O-ring, but can't see anything obvious - can someone please advise me if there is an O-ring in the brass housing as there are two flats just under the threaded end which I think the O-ring sits inside? Thanks Andrew
  3. Hello chaps. For the second time I have had to get the box off (clutch change) and for the second time I am struggling desperately. I just cannot understand it. I had the box off my old six four times and each time it virtually fell back into place. Yesterday, I spent 8 hours farthing about, heaving shoving and swearing and I have now given up! I did use a plastic clutch centring tool and I put the friction plate up to,the flywheel with and only then secured the cover, tightening to the required 20lb/ft. I also wired the clutch lever so the RB didn't fall off (and I know it was
  4. Would welcome views based on recent experience on where to get quality synchro cups. Don't want to repeat the job in less than many tens of thousands of miles. JJC
  5. shunty

    Gearbox

    Hi, Anyone know of a good gearbox repairer ,near Portsmouth/Southampton, I think it's just a bearing noise everything works okay, including over drive. Just noises when you accelerate. Have completely dismantle the car for a rebuild (by the way it's a 1972 TR 6 CP with A type o/D) . Have owned the car for 25 years thought about time it had overhaul. Believe it or not every nut and bolt came undone Regards Derek PS I don't mind sending away I just want a good job
  6. Evening All I would like to try a find out the condition of my gearbox and overdrive whilst they are out of the car . Having not had the pleasure to drive car , condition unknown Recommendations of anyone who could assess or bench test , local to me in south Wales would be a bonus.
  7. I am considering fabricating replacement front and back plates on the 6 engine and seek information on the grade of aluminium alloy to use. I am looking at 6082 T4 which appears to be suitable but would welcome advice from those who have travelled down a similar road or who know better. Vic
  8. Finally got my car back together having adjusted the tension on the gearbox selector rods. Gearbox is now working like a dream with 'rifle bolt' action. In the end I decided to tension the rods by feel rather than a spring balance (I haven't got one for a start) not quite textbook but works well enough. So if anyone else gets jammed selectors I can give advice and provide a complete set of new springs, ball bearings etc. etc. that in the end weren't needed. I also decided to replace my moth-eaten fibreglass tunnel with a new polycarb plastic version from Moss. Not cheap, about £100 but
  9. Another query on my project. Clutch will need to be changed as the GR serial gearbox (Triumph rebuild I am reliably informed) has a saloon first motion shaft so the clutch plate will need to be changed to the smaller spigot hole'd saloon one. As I'm there does anyone know whether this clutch cover plate (seemingly never used) will be ok (ie no clutch judder/drag etc). I cant identify it but it does say 'National Re-manufactured' on it , as per pic. Any thoughts or identification welcomed before the gearbox etc OK, cant do the upload but will continue trying heres a phobucket link
  10. Hi Folks, I found the filter magnet in the Overdrive in four pieces the other day. So today I bought a new magnet(s) only to find it is slightly different. The new magnet is made up of three fairly thin rings. The original was one thickish ring. All three rings togther are slightly thicker than the original; However using just two rings it is slightly thinner than original. What have people used as the norm? - three rings or two rings. Roger
  11. I recently made the mistake of stopping my TR6 while still in overdrive and didn't realise until after I had restarted that it was still switched in. I had switched the engine off before restarting and when I realised, after restarting, that it was still engaged I switched out the overdrive. It seemed to switch out OK as I felt the rise in revs, but it now will not engage overdrive. I wondered if anyone else has experienced anything like this and might be able to help.
  12. Hi, As my 3A and 4 have non overdrive boxes,I was always on the lookout for overdrive gearboxes.I now found two overdrive boxes from TR2's. Would a 2 overdrive box fit in the 3A and/or would the overdrive bolt on(after changing the outgoing shaft)the 4 gearbox,so I wouldn't loose the 1st syncro gear. Thanks
  13. Here is an aircraft bolt that will probably do for the dowel bolts on your TR5-250-6 engine to gearbox attachment. They are close tolerance 3/8" shank with a 3/8 unf thread. Be sure they are the right length - They are advertised as 1" grip length which should do. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-3-8-UNF-Close-Tolerance-Hex-Head-Bolts-Part-NAS6606-17-I4-/130896612945?pt=UK_CPV_Aviation_SM&hash=item1e7a0bce51 Cheers Peter W
  14. Hi TR-ers Yesterday on my return from the 1930 mile round trip to Morges, my overdrive developed a problem which I would be glad to receive your comments on and possible causes and remedial work. I was in top o/d when it slipped out and then back in again several times, before it finally stopped working in that gear altogether. Despite this the second and third worked properly all the time, including hard acceleration in 2nd and normal changing in both 2nd and 3rd. That I see indicates to me that the solenoid is O.K. as is the oil level in the box (this being topped up before I left, al
  15. Time to sort out my non-operating A type overdrive. Can anybody confirm the size and thread type necessary to connect a suitable pressure gauge so that I can confirm what, if any, pressure I'm getting? If that turns out to be OK, then I can work my way through all the other suspect areas. Thanks GoGuy
  16. Hi all, Can anyone recommend someone to recondition the gearbox of my TR4A? I live in South Bucks, near High Wycombe. I am pretty sure the problem is the syncromesh gear as the the gearbox baulks when I try and put it into second but eases off after 5 or 6 miles. I have heard that it's difficult to get quality spare parts (Enginuity mentioned that they need to buy 10+ spares to get one within the right tolerances). I am happy to remove the gearbox out and put it back in again - just need someone who knows their way around these gearboxes and is trustworthy. I heard there is someone in Walling
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