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Found 178 results

  1. Felix

    gearbox worry

    After a weekend run my car developed a vibration while being driven. I could find nothing physical under the car. While reversing and driving at slow speed I could hear strange metallic noises. When the car was garaged I lifted the rear end to have a look but still nothing visible. While the car was up I put it in gear but was able to turn rear wheels. Is there something that could break in the gearbox/ overdrive? The gearbox was a reconditioned one supplied by the restorer only 2K miles ago. Anyone any ideas or is it a gearbox out job? Craig
  2. Hi Guys, I have a small problem and wondered if others had experienced it and found a way to overcome. My TR3A has always tended to run hot when in traffic on a warm day - a problem we are all aware of - but one effect for me is that when the car has run an hour or so and is quite hot. If I then select reverse the gearstick jams and I cant either de-select reverse or engage any other gear. The only way out is to remove the gear stick from the housing completely and, using a large screwdriver or similar, force the sliders inside the remote housing back and forth until they run free. Replacing the gear stick again will then allow all gears to be selected but I take care not to select reverse again until the car is cool again. After that the gears are fine again -that is until the next long run and a reverse selection. I presume that this is a metal expansion problem of some kind and have used a liberal coating of good quality high temperature copper grease in there to try to cure this but it still happens when I forget the hot/reverse combination and fall in the same trap again. As it always happens in a most inconvenient spot to be carrying out such kerbside repairs I am looking to pick your collective brains to suggest a way to permanently cure this annoying problem. Any thoughts ?
  3. bluebob

    gearbox oils

    Hi All Just need some info on oil required for the gearbox with o/d i understand there are two main types GL4 -GL5 one is suitable the other is not as we have bronze bushes in the gearbox ,and can cause frothing? Bluebob
  4. Hi Everyone, I recently took out the gearbox, clutch and engine backplate to change the rear engine oil seal. Started to put everything back, after a bit of a struggle with getting the gearbox splines to engage through the clutch plate. Then started to bolt up the bell housing, tightening the 2 dowel bolts first, then all the others. When it got to refitting the gearbox mount I noticed that it was about 1/2 cm to the left out of alignment, in that I couldn't get the bolts through the holes. I could do it by levering the gearbox over to the right and then getting the bolts in but it doesn't seen right to me. I then decided to strip it all back again, so gearbox out, clutch and backplate. I checked the backplate was aligned correctly with the 2 dowels on the engine block and torqued correctly. Refitted the clutch. Gearbox back in. New dowel bolts at 2 and 8 o'clock positions, tightened first. Then all the others. Back to the gearbox mount and it's still out of alignment to the left! I'm sure when I originally took the gearbox out the gearbox mounting wasn't forced over to the right to enable it to align. Anyone have this happen before? It's a non overdrive box.
  5. A type over drive Usually comes in and out "briskly" but after longer runs it stops working or more precisely I swith the lever and it comes in some time later - many seconds. Is this solenoid getting hot? Any suggestions thank you - if solenoid look like I will be taking my interior out and so may as well change the getabox oil and clean filters. Snowy
  6. I need to replace my gearbox oil seal, do I need to remove the tunnel or gearbox from the car, or can it be done in situ
  7. Good people, in this last week my gearbox or clutch is making a whirring noise in second and third only, and also a rattling noise at idle in neutral. Pressing the clutch pedal only slightly, stops the whirring & rattling noise. This is most noticeable when everything is at normal operating temps, all quiet from a cold start. Regards Craig
  8. Are TR4's meant to have an angle drive connection at the gearbox or is it just a straight fit cable to gearbox Graze
  9. Practical advice needed. What is the trick to fitting these two components? The WM just says depress with a screwdriver (easy enough)! Firstly there hardly seems room to get a screwdriver in position and secondly the spring is very strong and in its unrestrained state protrudes well out of its cavity in the lever. and that's before you try to add the plunger. It seems that the spring and plunger needs to be kept compressed together (but how) while being inserted into the cavity formed by the three selector rods. I have tried it a few times and aren't getting close to achieving it. Perhaps i should add that the box is saloon with J O/D but frankly it looks just the same as the illustrations in the WM. Any pointers very welcome. Norman
  10. We'll Guys I think I'm just about clunked and rattled out but I thought before I throw in the towel for good and live with the rear clunk and gear stick rattle I'd ask for any final suggestions so here goes. All suggestions very much appreciated. Rear end clunk: Replaced ALL UJs, drive shafts, rear hubs, prop shaft, new gas shocks, recond diff, poly bushed just about everything but still get a clunk. May be a couple of things as I seem to get a consistent clunk when I apply and reduce power cruising. Also clunk if the one side goes over a speed bump. Only thing I can think off now is a slight gap on the rear poly bush on the diff that may be moving but that appears very small,I've tightened all bolts. Gear stick rattle: Really annoying under power. I've replace the rear gearbox mount and the selector shaft spring and plunger. Apart from that the car is going really well after a major rebuild but these 2 have stumped me a bit. Like I say could live with them BUT it detracts from the drive and we all want our cars to be the best we can get them.it would be rude not to so any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim
  11. Having fitted a stag gearbox to my tr6, the overdrive now does not wantto work. When it was bolted to the tr6 box it was working fine, but now its bolted to the stag box it don't wanna know. I have tried adjusting the rod, that operates ok. The solenoid works ok. I've seen you can bleed them, and tried that nothing coming out. Its got 2 litres of oil in it. Any ideas? Cheers Steve
  12. Hi Folks, Been out in the 'Saffron survivor' this afternoon for the first time since driving it the 8 miles home when I bought it two weeks ago. This is my fourth TR6 in the last 30 years, the last three having OD. VUX was a CP car, the other two were CRs and whilst I'm not looking to open the debate on CP vs CR on the performance stakes (BTW, the CP wins hands down!) I did notice today that 'Saffy' which is non-OD CP feels a bit quicker through the gears? I believe the gear ratios on OD and non-OD CP cars is the same, or are they? - both my CPs had/have 3:45:1 diffs, although VUX wore 185/70 and 'Saffy' wears 165/86; not sure if that would make a difference............ Also, I have to say that this car with its standard suspension and ride height (VUX was lowered by 20mm, with stiffer springs with poly bushes all rounds) has a more comfortable and compliant ride, or maybe it's just my age?! That said, VUX was far better through the twisty bits! Cheers Andrew
  13. Hey guys My TR6 has an A-type overdrive gearbox, and the layshalf and input shaft are knacked, however the overdrive is good. I've just brought a Stag re-con gearbox with an A type overdrive bolted to the back. My plan is to switch the gearboxes over, so to use the TR6 A-type Overdrive on the Stag gearbox. What else do I need to do? Cheers Steve
  14. The gearbox keeps slipping out of reverse. I am assuming this has something to do with the spring and plunger mechanism in the gearbox cover. Having removed the gearbox cover I referred to the Workshop Manual where it show three screws that hold the three spring/plungers/ballbearings. On my cover there are no screws. I don't know whether they changed the design of the fittings (I have one of the last production models) but I appear to have three indented caps with no obvious means of removal. Does anyone have any idea how I can unscrew a screw that has no slot (assuming they are indeed screws)? I was thinking about using a chiesel or something similar to try and turn the 'screws' but don't want to damage anything if this is the wrong approach. Cheers Steve
  15. Hi, i'm replacing the gear lever anti rattle plunger which was missing. One side of the plunger is flat, the other one is slightly cone shaped. Which side goes where? thanks
  16. Hi, Whilst removing my gearbox I noticed that there appeared to be oil leaking from at least one of the welch plugs in the sides of the top cover. Anyone else had this problem? I've bought a set of plugs from Moss, any tips for replacing the plugs? I had it in mind to use a sealant of some sort, any suggestions? As always, all contributions gratefully accepted. Peter
  17. I have been scratching my head this afternoon with regard to trying to wire up the O/D I have bought new looms from Rimmers.....poss first mistake I have three separate sets of wires one set has two green and yellow spade connectors and these intern are connected to a bullet connector( i guess this connects to the wire from the o/d/switch on the steering column . then there are three spade connectors coloured yellow and purple. i can see from the wiring diagram that one of these goes to the solenoid , so where do the other 2 go? I will stick with this question first before i sort out the next 2 sets of wires
  18. vegard_s

    New clutch

    What are the thoughts on the clutch kits being offered today? I´m about to put in an order from Moss and was wondering what people think about the B&B kits they sell, any experience with them? CLUTCH KIT, Borg & Beck, 3 piece Note: standard. (B&B no. HK966S clamping load 535dn) or CLUTCH KIT, Borg & Beck, 3 piece Note: standard. (B&B no HK9649 clamping load 400dn) / Vegard
  19. Greetings, I have used the angle speedometer drive on the "J" type overdrive unit in my TR3A. The car is on temporary licence plates, getting ready for spring and the German TüV. The angle speedometer drive has broken three times, always after I have driven about 120 kilometers. I assumed I had done something wrong the first time but since have carefully followed instructions and it still breaks. I have had two replacements free of charge but now I would rather pay whatever amount to get this straightened out. Help! And thanks for any replies.
  20. Good afternoon everyone, Prior to the re-installation of my TR6 gearbox I have a question regarding the installation of the gear lever plunger and spring. As I am sure you are all aware the plunger and spring sit in a blind hole at the base of the gear lever and are held in place once the lever is inserted into the selector housing. My question is how on earth are you supposed to install the spring and plunger as I'm currently finding it a little challenging. The Brown Bible states to add plenty of grease to hold it in place. This may hold the spring in but certainly not the plunger. I was wondering if fellow members may have a trick or some wise words to offer before I give up hope. Thank you for reading the post. Best Regards, Peter
  21. While I wait to have my garage electrics upgraded I thought I'd drain the oil from the gearbox and have a look inside. Oil black as the ace of spades but to my surprise very little sediment, drained it through some linen and used a magnet in the remains , very little swarf. Took the top cover off all gears looked in very good condition apart from one no 43 in the moss catalogue, 1st 2nd and reverse synchro Hub it as a little bit of wear were I believe it comes into contact with the reverse gear no 65 . Is this normal wear and tear and is it something that needs to be addressed. Thanks Mark
  22. PaulR

    gearbox again

    Just reassembled the gbox with all the new bits and all seemed to go well, however trying to turn the flange on the end of the overdrive ( that connects to the propshaft) by hand is almost impossible. Is this normal Attaching a power drill to the clutch end of the input shaft and sliding the reverse gear into mesh enables the output flange to turn as expected, so all seems to work, I'm just concerned about the amount of effort to turn it by hand Opinions please Paul
  23. 2-3 years ago I had a problem with my 64 TR4 jumping out of second gear when not under load. After reading the forum and dismantling the Gbox I found the second gear 'Top Hat' bush was sheared. This was duly replaced and all was well with the world. Until recently. Same problem has re-occured. Just had the box out and low and behold 'Top Hat' bush has sheared again. Now thinking that sheared bush was effect rather than cause. All the rest of the innards appear fine, no missing teeth or wear marks. However the rear gearbox mount has done its usual trick and disintegrated, could this be the cause? Anyone got any suggestions what I should check before replacing the bush and refitting Also whats the answer to the gbox mount, this will be the 3rd one since I 've had the car Thanks in advance Paul
  24. I have a TR250 gearbox (no O/D) that was rebuilt and used for two years (It had the occasional crunch on 3rd selection) before I replaced it with another fitted with overdrive. Is it better to split and sell internals for spare parts or complete?.......anyone need either option? john
  25. Hi Guys, I've lived with a rattle on the gear stick for a few years so I thought I would try and sort. I've replaced the rear mountings on the gearbox and the selector shaft spring and anti rattle plunger at the base .... eventually using a plastic tie to hold plunger and spring in place. Absolutely no difference in that under heavy acceleration the gear stick rattles a lot which is really disappointing after all the work. So assuming it's stayed in place has anyone any ideas what else I could try ... or I've missed. Thanks, Jim
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