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  1. Hi, My speedo has stopped working and having established the cable isn't rotating I need to have a look at the gearbox end. Unfortunately there is no inspection access. Does anyone have both covers for speedo and gearbox oil please or know where I can buy some. I don't really fancy taking a hacksaw to it and trying to make my own. Thanks Jim
  2. Taking the car out for spin this evening and the car got stuck in 3rd gear. Managed to pull over and had a go trying to select any gears. Suddenly I heard a metal clang, as something fell on the tarmac. Looking under the car it was a selector fork! Luckily, wasn't far from home so managed to get the car back in 3rd. Looking under the car I could see that the 3rd/4th selector fork had come off the selector rod. The other 2 selector forks seem to be bolted onto the selector rods. The 3rd/4th selector fork doesn't seem to be bolted. The Moss Catalogue isn't clear how it is attatched. There's
  3. Can anyone help in sourcing the washer that sits between first gear and the bearing in a Tr3 3 speed synchro gearbox. Moss advise me they no longer stock them so I guess it's going to be difficult. Alternatively, is there an alternative solution that has been/is being used? As always, all help/advice great fully received Vic
  4. Originally in the TR6 forum, seemed to be of general interest. Here are the turned bushes I made to press the bearings and oil seals: https://flic.kr/p/nYRpxD You can get the spring-ring off with screw-drivers or make some wedges: https://flic.kr/p/oeiKJb For removing layshaft bearings, the big jaws if the bearing has a gap behind as it should do and the small jaws against the bronze bush to get hold of a bearing thats been pushed too far in: https://flic.kr/p/oghZY9 You could tap the races of the new layshaft bearings in with a punch I suppose or pull them in with this: https://flic.kr
  5. Just looked at a very informative set of YouTube videos on an A type gearbox rebuild. It didn't look too difficult, at least less daunting than I thought. So the question is, do I have a stab at it myself or hand to a professional?
  6. Hi all A couple of years ago while rebuilding my gearbox I bought an uprated lay gear from somebody off the forum, thing is I can't remember for the life of me who it was. Friend of mine now wants the same and apart from remembering he was very helpful I can't remember who it was. SO HELP.....PLEASE. cheers Mark
  7. savi55


    I need a recommendation to recondition my existing gear box for a TR6. Please advise someone who can help with this. Kind Regards Sav Fasulo Peterborough
  8. Hi I need to have my gearbox overhauled as I have drained the oil out of the gearbox and found a needle roller, a couple of bits of small metal that resemble a needle roller bearing casing, I also drained the overdrive and there was no bits coming out of that. I have several questions to ask and I live in Poole, Dorset. Recommendations on where to send the gearbox. What cost am I looking at. Whilst I have to take the gearbox out would it pay to have the engine out as well and get that overhauled as it’s original on 78,000 miles with lowish oil pressure when hot. The head has just been done,
  9. As per the title, bit of oil dripping here, no much. Where will it be coming from (seems like engine oil) and is it a problem. All else seems fine, just did first oil change and filter after 500 miles on rebuilt engine. Oil pressure good (75 at 3k revs 25 at idle when hot). Its not much but was just wandering where its seeping from to get there, and dont want it on my clutch .....
  10. bearing has disintegrated leaving outer ring in crankshaft, any ideas how to get it out ?
  11. I am looking to install a reconditioned gearbox and overdrive in my TR3B (TCF series). The unit I am considering is a 4-synchro box with 'A'-type O/D from a TR5. The vendor tells me the only difference is that the input shaft is slightly shorter but that the box can be fitted without adaptation. Can anybody confirm? Also, can anyone recommend dealing with TR Shop on Chiswick High Rd. in London based on experience? Thanks, Bob.
  12. Hi All I'm trying to find the gearbox number on my imported 4a, the workshop manual say's its on the L/H side gear box boss where the clutch fork exits if I'm reading it right? I've cleaned it off but there is no number that I can see. There is a set of numbers on the output end of the gearbox starting 30........ but I thought it was meant to start CT............... Any help would be great thanks. regards Gavin
  13. Hi guys, Here's a tester for you! I drove 4,000 mile last year in my TR6 with no mechancal intervention. At this year's MOT/maintenance check (90 minutes drive each way) I was told I had gearbox and diff oil leaks. The diff is a recent (2 yrs) replacement, the age of the gearbox is unknown. Neither drops any significant amounts of oil onto my garage floor. However I do get the ocasional whiff of hypoy on hard acceleration or cornering. (leaking from the rear seal onto the exhaust pipe?) I've driven crappy british cars for tens of thousands of miles, and never checked t
  14. Felix

    gearbox worry

    After a weekend run my car developed a vibration while being driven. I could find nothing physical under the car. While reversing and driving at slow speed I could hear strange metallic noises. When the car was garaged I lifted the rear end to have a look but still nothing visible. While the car was up I put it in gear but was able to turn rear wheels. Is there something that could break in the gearbox/ overdrive? The gearbox was a reconditioned one supplied by the restorer only 2K miles ago. Anyone any ideas or is it a gearbox out job? Craig
  15. Hi Guys, I have a small problem and wondered if others had experienced it and found a way to overcome. My TR3A has always tended to run hot when in traffic on a warm day - a problem we are all aware of - but one effect for me is that when the car has run an hour or so and is quite hot. If I then select reverse the gearstick jams and I cant either de-select reverse or engage any other gear. The only way out is to remove the gear stick from the housing completely and, using a large screwdriver or similar, force the sliders inside the remote housing back and forth until they run free. Replaci
  16. bluebob

    gearbox oils

    Hi All Just need some info on oil required for the gearbox with o/d i understand there are two main types GL4 -GL5 one is suitable the other is not as we have bronze bushes in the gearbox ,and can cause frothing? Bluebob
  17. Hi Everyone, I recently took out the gearbox, clutch and engine backplate to change the rear engine oil seal. Started to put everything back, after a bit of a struggle with getting the gearbox splines to engage through the clutch plate. Then started to bolt up the bell housing, tightening the 2 dowel bolts first, then all the others. When it got to refitting the gearbox mount I noticed that it was about 1/2 cm to the left out of alignment, in that I couldn't get the bolts through the holes. I could do it by levering the gearbox over to the right and then getting the bolts in but it do
  18. A type over drive Usually comes in and out "briskly" but after longer runs it stops working or more precisely I swith the lever and it comes in some time later - many seconds. Is this solenoid getting hot? Any suggestions thank you - if solenoid look like I will be taking my interior out and so may as well change the getabox oil and clean filters. Snowy
  19. I need to replace my gearbox oil seal, do I need to remove the tunnel or gearbox from the car, or can it be done in situ
  20. Good people, in this last week my gearbox or clutch is making a whirring noise in second and third only, and also a rattling noise at idle in neutral. Pressing the clutch pedal only slightly, stops the whirring & rattling noise. This is most noticeable when everything is at normal operating temps, all quiet from a cold start. Regards Craig
  21. Are TR4's meant to have an angle drive connection at the gearbox or is it just a straight fit cable to gearbox Graze
  22. Practical advice needed. What is the trick to fitting these two components? The WM just says depress with a screwdriver (easy enough)! Firstly there hardly seems room to get a screwdriver in position and secondly the spring is very strong and in its unrestrained state protrudes well out of its cavity in the lever. and that's before you try to add the plunger. It seems that the spring and plunger needs to be kept compressed together (but how) while being inserted into the cavity formed by the three selector rods. I have tried it a few times and aren't getting close to achieving it. Pe
  23. We'll Guys I think I'm just about clunked and rattled out but I thought before I throw in the towel for good and live with the rear clunk and gear stick rattle I'd ask for any final suggestions so here goes. All suggestions very much appreciated. Rear end clunk: Replaced ALL UJs, drive shafts, rear hubs, prop shaft, new gas shocks, recond diff, poly bushed just about everything but still get a clunk. May be a couple of things as I seem to get a consistent clunk when I apply and reduce power cruising. Also clunk if the one side goes over a speed bump. Only thing I can think off now is a sl
  24. Having fitted a stag gearbox to my tr6, the overdrive now does not wantto work. When it was bolted to the tr6 box it was working fine, but now its bolted to the stag box it don't wanna know. I have tried adjusting the rod, that operates ok. The solenoid works ok. I've seen you can bleed them, and tried that nothing coming out. Its got 2 litres of oil in it. Any ideas? Cheers Steve
  25. Hi Folks, Been out in the 'Saffron survivor' this afternoon for the first time since driving it the 8 miles home when I bought it two weeks ago. This is my fourth TR6 in the last 30 years, the last three having OD. VUX was a CP car, the other two were CRs and whilst I'm not looking to open the debate on CP vs CR on the performance stakes (BTW, the CP wins hands down!) I did notice today that 'Saffy' which is non-OD CP feels a bit quicker through the gears? I believe the gear ratios on OD and non-OD CP cars is the same, or are they? - both my CPs had/have 3:45:1 diffs, although VUX
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