Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'gearbox'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • TR Register Information
    • Find your local TR Register group
    • TR Register News
    • Events
    • TR Register Insurance
  • Parts and Cars
    • Classifieds
    • For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250
  • TR Register's TR Chat
    • TRs Out and About
    • General TR Technical
    • TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
    • TR4/4A Forum
    • TR5/250 Forum
    • TR6 Forum
    • TR7/8 Forum
    • Italia, Swallow Doretti, Peerless & Warwick
    • TR Motorsport
    • TRs Re-United
    • Social Scene
  • Help Topics
    • Forum Help / Rules
  • Useful Links
    • Contact the office
    • Facebook
    • Twitter
    • Members' websites


  • Forthcoming Events
  • Community Calendar

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL






Cars Owned:

  1. Is the bellhousing on the TR3/4 the same size as the TR6? Reason for the question. I have some instructions for putting a modern clutch into a TR. i.e stopping the clutch judder. Unfortunately in the title is says for TR3/4. there is no refernce to a TR6
  2. Out in the 6 first time this year, all running fine until pulling away from junction. Nothing hectic just normal driving. Slight squeal and rumble on drive take up, possibly from release bearing ( not heard before), 100 yards on no drive to rear wheels. Coasted to a halt. Engine running fine, clutch still requires force to depress, gears can be selected with or without clutch depressed, but no drive available to fear wheels. Car can be pushed 'in gear', no engine break. I'm a little stumped as to what this can be. I suspect it's a gearbox out what ever, but any thoughts would be much appre
  3. Hello All, and I thought everything was going so well after my winter projects, car started first time and all electrics worked as they should, took the car for a run and had to do a u turn to get back, there is a ticking noise from the gear box, out of gear nothing, once in gear volume and frequency increases with speed, I fitted a new anti rattle plunger as the previous one had been lost and I have fitted a hi torque starter motor, other than that I have not touched the gearbox, I jacked the rear end up and ran the car in gear, at tickover first gear noise is barely audible, in second gear f
  4. All I have never been completely happy with the way that my clutch & gearbox feel The clutch was new in March (I think) 2014, put in by Carlow Engineering, just before I bought the car, however, I have never been happy with the feel of the gear change Is there a '6' owner in the Essex neck of the woods, who is happy with their own set up and who would be prepared to meet up somewhere convenient, with a view to taking my car for a spin and offering their considered opinion. Nothing in writing, so no come back, just an honest opinion sought!
  5. I need to replace the selector seals on my gearbox, the box has the pressed in detent plugs on the selectors, can anyone tell me where I can obtain replacements when I have extracted the old ones, as I cannot find anyone that supplies them any more, Cheers
  6. So I was trying to figure out why my gear selector isn't working (Gearbox already out of the car) and have either by some error put myself in this position or found a cause for the problem, at this point I have removed the 1st/2nd gear selector shaft. and loosened the forks for both reverse and 3rd/4th. But what appears to be the case is that the 3rd 4th shaft is "too far in gear" meaning it is past the point in which it would be furthest forward when normally in gear. I cannot get it out of gear or even take the shaft out the top cover. Because of how the interlock system works this means I c
  7. Gents, I'm in the process of trying to service my car myself - for the first time - and this is the second in my forthcoming series of "hmmm, what do I do now?" questions. As the car is up on stands, I thought this would be a good time to look at the brakes, waxoyl the chassis and address the "territory marking" issues while I am at it. I've sorted the drip from the radiator (loose jubilee clip on the bottom hose), the rocker cover (new gasket) and the clutch slave (new unit). I'm now moving back to the gearbox and beyond. I can't see any images attached to the above post so have a
  8. It looks as though my initial enthusiasm at finally getting my gearbox in was a little premature - I've hit a problem. Basically I'm replacing the original non-overdrive gearbox in my TR4 with an A-type overdrive gearbox from a TR4A. All was going well until the final tightening of the mounting bolts. It quickly became apparent that after tightening I could no longer turn the engine over. I slackened the mounting bolts and it freed up so something is amiss. The gearbox is now out again. The profile of the input shaft in my new gearbox differs from my old gearbox. The problem appears
  9. Hello there New to the TR world and saw this (photo attached) when lying underneath the car the other day. I'd appeciate it if someone could tell me what it is and what it's for. Many thanks
  10. Hello all, I wonder if anyone can help. I've had a thorough search around, but can't the answer to this specific issue. I've just bought a '74 (so J-Type era chassis / non-overdrive box) TR6. The car's a donor for a coachbuilding project, so originality isn't a particular issue. Floors are going to be replaced, so cut outs for solenoids no problem. I've read about people using 2000/2500 O/D gearboxes in TR's, and have just picked up via E-Bay a 2000 A-Type O/D box. Now, as I was driving over to collect (after committing to it), I realised that I've made the school-boy error of mixi
  11. Hello guys, I have a problem with a seriously leaking Tr4' A type overdrive : the leak is from the solenoïd alloy bracket (item N°502566), where the actuating lever (502568) is connected to a shaft who goes through the overdrive. There is an o'ring in the alloy bracket, around the shaft, but it don't seems to be enough, as the beast is as dry as Gran' Ma underwear. So, please allow several questions : - how can I identify a repro bracket, as the culprit may be a badly moulded repro alloy cover/bracket ? - as someone made a cover/bracket with a hole for an oil seal instead o
  12. Just starting to hopefully fix noise on overrun, so lifted gearbox out yesterday (well, dragged actually) and found that the clutch diaphragm markings from the release bearing are not where I expected them to be- see photo. Is this perhaps because I have the wrong release bearing- see photo? Also, the oil is really frothy man- I'm using a branded GL4 EP 80W-90 oil. Any ideas guys? (and gals).
  13. Hi All, The synchromesh on 5th gear on my TR7 Sprint has stopped working suddenly, so suddenly that I suspect the synchro ring has broken rather than worn out. The gearbox is working fine in other gears, just the nasty crunch when going for 5th at anything more than snail's pace. I've been told it's possible to change the 5th gear synchro ring without removing the box from the car, and always one to avoid unnecessary work, this sounds much better than having to pull out the box. There's no sign that a total gearbox rebuild is needed. Have any of the assembled experts here tried r
  14. Well as I guessed when I pulled the fibreboard tunnel out today it was rotten, at least it came out easy in bits. However on inspection looking at the gearbox.mounts and subsequently the engine mounts they are pulling slightly to the rear, I haven't released the propshaft yet but wouldn't have thought that would do it. Any ideas or could the mounts just be tired?
  15. Has anyone installed the o/d selector switch onto the gear lever. I know that a new lever would have to be manufactured, but would a lever from a Stag or Dolly fit?
  16. Hello, I recently had a new clutch fitted to my TR4, and have not driven it much since then. On a couple of recent blasts I discovered that OD second is not working. It works fine in 3rd and 4th gears. My garage is at a loss as to why it should work in 3rd and 4th, but not second. I should add that before the original clutch packed up, OD in second worked. Have any of you got ideas as to the reason for this problem, and what the fix might be? Thanks in advance Nick Clark
  17. wjgco

    Gearbox issues

    All Good evening Just collected the car from the bodyshop (great job!), but now have a gear selection problem. Selecting 1st & 2nd was very, very stiff, 3rd worst, 4th almost impossible and reverse not available. I was nursing her home, when after about 4 miles, suddenly, all forward gears were available and a lot, lot easier, not perfect but, easier. Reverse is there, but selection is tricky. My knee jerk is that I have a selector issue, but, this is 1970's British Leyland engineering, I know that it could be almost anything. Does anyone have any suggestions? Many thanks in
  18. This weekend going to do my first oil changes after acquiring the car last year. Only done about 850 miles, but as the engine oil is nearly as black as my plugs, I am not sure when they were last done. History file suggests 2012, but ????? Scanned the Forum using the really helpful 'NO 3 letter searches' facility ! Just to check. Gearbox and overdrive 1.6 litres ? - using Pentrite GB 40 are the drain plug and filling points obvious ? and can they be reached with the car flat on the floor ? Diff have read differing docs saying 0.8 and 1.1 litres does it take the GB40? o
  19. Ok, just in case you havent seen my speedo head seize up (its off to JDO) and as a consequence the angle drive from the gearbox broke. I was looking at getting a replacement then saw the posts saying you dont need an angle drive for a J type overdrive box, just connect the speedo cable direcly. Just as a double check had a work with a TR Specialists and they said you should have one.......so now I'm not sure. Obviously if I can avoid having one so much the better as they are a PITA
  20. Hi Folks, I fitted a my rebuilt gearbox a couple of weeks ago. Since then a couple of oil leaks have appeared. I have spoken to the workshop and they are happy to have it back and see what they can do but that is not for another week+. Today I stripped the inside of the car out to see what is going on. There are a number of small stains rather than leaks - inhibit switches, a top housing screw that I disturbed for a 'P' clip etc. I notice that the greater leak ( very leaky) was coming from the underside of the selector rod box. Question 1 - can I remove the selec
  21. I went for a nice drive Sunday ending at Christchurch Quay Classic Car show, but on the way back near home I started having trouble getting into 2nd from 3rd. 1st to 2nd no problem. Occasionally 2nd to 3rd is a little difficult. If I double de clutch with a blip of throttle it seems to go in OK. Overdrive works smooth and is unchanged. This is my first couple of drives since all my problems after IWE last year and replacing the head gasket and converting the head to unleaded. I get the car running really well and smooth and now this, that’s TRing I suppose. I think I will bleed the c
  22. We had a TR6 owner at our local group meeting today who has a problem operating the clutch on his TR6 due to an accident which left him with a weak left leg. He has a TR7 Automatic which is no problem, but he does not want to give up the TR6. Currently it has the largest (3.5?) servo fitted to the clutch circuit but this is not helping a great deal. One of our group TR6 experts suggested that with the PI system there is not enough pressure (or vacuum?) to make maximum use of the clutch servo Options suggested so far: Conversion from PI to carbs It would be a shame to remove a perfectl
  23. Hi Folks, I'm doing a rebuild by stealth. Had a great week-end away with some of the London Group. Had a couple of problems. Firstly the speedo started to play silly so and so's. Needle all over the place then dead. then alive then dead again. Took the drive cable out this morning and found the square end had quite a lot of wear. It also does'nt go in as deep as it could. The new cable is a fraction longer. Also yesterday the overdrive didn't. It would not overdrive very well but it certainly wouldn't overdrive at all. The solenoid works well and the alignment lever l
  24. Hi, 2 weeks ago a friend of mine bought a tr5 from tr trader in Manchester,drove back to Oxford faultless, everything working.Took it out today for the 1st time since bringing it back and overdrive is now not working,is there any simple checks we can do before getting hold of the place he bought it from?. Cheers Nigel
  25. After a run and parking up I then found it impossible to select reverse. The gearstick was just solid when lifted and thrown over to the right. Removing the stick cover and stick to check the sliders showed that the left reverse slider would not move forwards despite much pressure. My repair man said that the selector fork was badly worn but he had been able to 'bodge' a repair by building up and machining. Its working OK. He said that he had phoned around to find a replacement slider but had no success. I would like to replace the bodged part as soon as possible of course. Does anyone know o
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.