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  1. Hi, I hope you don't mind but I would like to try some reverse diagnosis. Following a Leak down and compression test I have been told that the inlet valve on number 5 is failing to shut correctly and is giving me a 28% leak. All other valves are between 5 and 10% which I am told is good. Otherwise the compression figures aren't fantastic but within acceptable limits. Can I ask what symptoms I might be experiencing assuming that the timing and injection are set correctly or certainly to within acceptable parameters. The head is going to come off to investigate further and we
  2. Hi All, I am at the end of my tether, my Rover 4.0L V8 engine in my Grinnall, since being parked all over winter has developed a fault where it breaks down after 4-5 miles; I have been recovered twice by TR breakdown, excellent service by the way, there in 40 minutes both times, I have changed the following with new parts: Oil pressure switch Distributor Coil Ballast resistor Fuel pump Fuel line front to back Filters Checked the fuel pick up is clear in the tank By passed the immobiliser Next items to check/change Ignition switch Earth straps There has been two symptoms, no fuel in to
  3. I have a TR4 which is a deep dish spring rear axle type and has standard steel rear wheels and a set of Verdestien tyres. Ever since it was restored by myself approx 5 years ago it has suffered from vibration / resonance at various motorway speeds. Since then I replaced the propshaft which made a massive difference. The wheels are balanced only yesterday. The car still suffers from reasonances and is only smooth at an indicated 58mph and another above that. I am not expected new car standards but a moderately easy drive like my sidescreen TR. Any ideas as to what it could be causin
  4. So the story goes, my 1971 TR6 hasn't been used since IWE last year, its had the engine bay painted and since then all the side lights including number plate dont work, nor do dipped beam, main beam work when flashed on the column and the indicators work fine. Iv check all connections and they look ok altho I'm just hoping they didn't put a wire back in the wrong slot or something....any one got a wiring diagram or any clues on where to begin looking?...fuses are all ok, I'm not the best with electrics so bear with me, thanks in advance!
  5. The annoying rattle which I was convinced was coming from my off side suspension and couldn't locate was in fact my hood. Part of the frame which was attached to the header rail had snapped on the off side (another of those little jobs to attend to) and I have been driving around with the hood down and covered by the tonneau so every time I went over a bump the two ends rattled together. You live and learn
  6. Hi All Well things have still not improved, as regard to the 2 following threads that I started last year after IWE. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/42553-pinking-lumpy/ http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/44116-prvfuel-pump-rubber-flexible-mount-fixing-question/?hl=%2Bfuel+%2Bpump+%2Bmounts I have not been able to get in the garage as much as I would have liked, but this weekend was nice and now that I am feeling a bit better I thought I would spend the whole weekend on the car and see if I can get the butterflies balanced and to get it running nicely
  7. Started the beast yesterday after a reasonable lay up of 9 months. I expected the usual faff of cranking for 30 seconds until she started but yesterday no joy... So, through the usual things, have I got a spark - check. Are all the injectors pressurised - no, one leaking and dripping so a quick strip down of the offending unit and replace the 'o' ring in the nose and bingo so now - check. Still no sign of life. At this point, being an engineer by trade, the usual complicated scenarios start binging into the old grey matter as to what is up. Anyway, by this time the cranking speed is a li
  8. Hi, Took my 4A out for a spin this morning, following the replacement of discs and pads. It was obviously not my day as I had two problems. Firstly the car pulled to the nearside on braking. The harder the braking the greater the pull. After research on here my problem could be a bent hose or a sticking caliper. Well, I hope it’s not the hoses are Goodridge, two years old. First question how do I unstick the caliper without dismantling it. My thought would be to put the old, thinner pads, back in and depress the brake pedal to allow the piston to move further in towards the disc, then lever
  9. When you shut the door on the TR, you can hear the door glass wobble around loudly if it's completely wound down. However if the glass is wound up a bit (or fully), it doesn't shake inside the door shell. I've had a look inside the door cavity (without taking the interior panel off) and can see that there is a rubber guide in the channel at the rear of the door glass. Could it be that this is worn so much there's free play, or is it likely to be another issue?
  10. hi again,could some one please tell me what my amp dial should be reading under normal running? [ mine is near to the positive] many thanks steve.
  11. Hi All, I'm delighted to report that, in the main, Percy is running well at the moment. Starts first time, ticks over at 800 RPM & pulls strongly through the gears....with one small exception. On gentle acceleration, I've noticed that the engine seems to hit a flat spot around 2000 RPM - literally, from 1900 to 2100. Up to and beyond those parameters it pulls like a train. I've checked the injectors & they all have a good pulse & good spray pattern. The fuel filter is new & the pre-filter is clean. It's running on high octane unleaded and the choke seems to be opening
  12. Does anyone know what the best manual is to buy for repairing and understanding the workings of my new TR6. I'm very new to repairing cars and would like to restore it in winter but for now just get to know the car. I've been told not to get the Haynes manual as it is not informative enough.
  13. I've at last got the engine running and all appears to be well until I reversed it out of the garage. Symptoms :- With engine running and reverse gear engaged the car moving backward slowly down a slight slope if I disengage the clutch the car rocks to a stop just as if the engine had been switched off with the car in gear. I tried in forward gear and it has the same affect. With the car stopped and the engine running and the clutch disengaged it is extremely hard to get it out of gear. I have jacked it up and repeated the process ( both wheels off the ground) and all appears
  14. Hi All, Quick Question, have a noise when putting foot on the throttle particularly as I gain speed in 3rd and 4th. The noise is hard to describe but loose clattering in the engine that speeds up as the speed goes up and soon as I take the foot of the throttle it dissappears, any clues? thanks dan
  15. The story so far... About 10 days ago I blew the head gasket on my TR3 A. At the end of a speedy100 mile round trip over hills. I admit I did not check the fluids before setting off... I did get home under my own steam on the last 2 miles. literally ... The following weekend I pulled the head off and found a very small defect in the gasket but I suppose that's all it takes. I then fitted a new gasket and torqued it down to 105 as per the book. I did not adjust the timing or change any carb settings and refitted the manifolding etc. I double checked the SU float levels
  16. Hi All its been a while since i have been on here so here i go my temperature gauge runs a little high between middle and 3/4 i have a electric fan fitted it used to be ok (in the middle) until i fitted a new fan at the front of the rad, now the engine is new with a new water pump and sender and fitted the fan back to the rear of the rad and still the gauge runs the same its a bit nervy looking at it and goes between 3/4 and high before the fan kicks in then comes back but doesnt seem to overheat or anything so is there a resistor or something fitted in this wiring that maybe i ne
  17. Hello All, At the moment it feels like one thing after another when starting my 3a. Having sorted some starter motor power probs with new battery leads and a new solenoid to starter lead the electrical side has been resolved and all was good for a month or so until earlier this week. She started fine on Monday and I drove the front wheels up onto wheel ramps so I could work on sanding, rust protecting and painting the chassis. When I went to start it to reverse off the ramps it wouldn't start, just cough, but did when back on the flat after a few tries. On Tuesday when I went to carry
  18. Im about to start glueing the headlining into the backlight. I'm not sure how it fits around the recesses of the roof attachments. Could anyone take a couple of pictures so I can see how to fit the lining, Thanks muchly Simon
  19. Hello, I am currently in negotiations to purchase a TR4A. The car is in the UK, and I am based in Spain. The seller is advising that they will send the car to me using an international shipping company for a 7 day period in which time I should trial the car and inspect it. I need to send 50% deposit to the shipping company before such delivery. If I do not like the car, they will collect it in in a week anyway, and then remiburse the deposit. Now, does this sound like a genuine offer, or is it just too TGTBT (Too Good To Be True)?! I would prefer that an independent mechanic w
  20. Hi all, I have a couple of (probably) unrelated electrical problems and an almost complete lack of electrical know how... 1. An intermittent loss of the wiper / indicator / brake light circuit over the last few months. Typically everything is fine when I try to trace the fault, but not when I want to drive the car... At the weekend, I noticed (more by luck than judgement) that the circuit is fine with the ignition in the 'accessory' position, but fails in the 'on' position. A duff ignition switch? 2. More recently, the ignition light is staying on. I have a 45A alternator; 30/3
  21. Hi all, My wipers have a tendency to lift off the knurled splines, whilst at the Basingstoke festival of transport (great day out by the way) at the weekend it was pointed out that there should be a 'metal clip' that sits inside and secures the arm to the spline. I can't find any mention of it in the usual catalogues but clearly I need a pair. Can anyone help where I might buy some or alternatively does anyone has original wiper arms that they would like to sell on. Thanks Jim
  22. We'll Guys I think I'm just about clunked and rattled out but I thought before I throw in the towel for good and live with the rear clunk and gear stick rattle I'd ask for any final suggestions so here goes. All suggestions very much appreciated. Rear end clunk: Replaced ALL UJs, drive shafts, rear hubs, prop shaft, new gas shocks, recond diff, poly bushed just about everything but still get a clunk. May be a couple of things as I seem to get a consistent clunk when I apply and reduce power cruising. Also clunk if the one side goes over a speed bump. Only thing I can think off now is a sl
  23. I've spent 3 months rebuilding my 1973 US TR6. New valves, new big end and main bearings, exhaust system, valve job, carb overhaul. The car runs fine. I can't get the clutch to work. I can get the transmission into neutral, and run the engine. When I try to shift, I'm grinding gears. I have a new clutch master cylinder, and rebuilt the slave. The clutch operating lever can move about one inch back and forth without doing anything. I really don't want to remove the trans again. The car ran fine about 4 months ago. Maybe I have a too small slave cylinder operating rod? I might have mix
  24. Hi everyone, Just wondering if anyone can help. I have an 81 TR7 due for its MOT, and have just been checking things and have discovered the main beam warning light doesn't work, and that it's now an MOT issue! Checked the bulb and that is OK, so where might the problem be? Thanks for any advice. teeegeee
  25. OK….I've never done this before so bear with me…. I'm going to take a look at my front suspension today as I have some movement in my front wheels that can't be taken up by the wheel bearing, so it has been suggested it's trunnion bushes. I bought a replacement trunnion bush set and they've sat in the tool box until today when I decided to open the package and take a look. The black plastic (poly???) bushes don't seem to be a very good fit on the sleeve. From what I understand, the sleeve IS supposed to rotate within the sleeve and NOT the bolt inside the sleeve but it seems to me to be exc
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