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  1. You may recall that the brakes lights on olde smokey 'shiney & best buy of the year' stopped working on the way back from the Silverstone Classic in July. Well, having finally got round to checking whether it was the brake switch, it appears that both rear light bulbs had gone - Moss LED's - been in there 15 months and rarely lit. Looking at the wiring diagram and tracing the green or green/white (ish) cables back to the horns (?), I can find no fuse/s in the line, nor had any other fuses in the car gone (horns working, indicators working front and rear, front light working). S
  2. Greetings folk, can anyone offer some advice regarding my smouldering (standard) Lucas headlamp unit after fitting a new capless pilot lamp? The PL wasn't working so I splashed out 60p on the hopeful possibility of a faulty bulb. When it still refused to glow I cleaned up the terminals under the bonnet and replaced the joint connector block. Bingo, light. But also smoke in the sealed unit when I switched the headlamps on! I checked the new lamp, and it's a 12v 3w capless one. Although I can't make out the specification of the (fully functioning) old lamp, the Moss catalogue seems
  3. Car starts and runs/idles fine, performs well initially, but if I switch off for 10 minutes or so when restarted it seems to run on five. It will seem to clear if I thrash it but then plays up at low RPM. So back home a very weak pulse from certainly one of the injectors, however they are all new, so with the engine running I disconnect the number 1 hose from the MU result... practically nothing coming out of the adaptor! I would have thought that it would be a big healthy spurt with each revolution? Thoughts gents Dave
  4. Sorry my first post is a request for advice - I will at least try and add what I have found so far about the problem, and tried to resolve it. Really enjoying using my first TR6 now it's warmer and dryer - commute, kids' taxi, any excuse... It's a well maintained 1971 CP TR6, with no recent mechanical changes. Two weeks ago I noticed the idle speed increased to around 1400-1500 RPM on the return leg of a 40 mile round trip. It did the same at the weekend. Last night and today it was up to 2-2500 RPM at idle. Apart from that it's fine, pulls well, revs well, plenty of power, no problem.
  5. Hi Folks, Mr TR6 PI has been running a little uneven at low revs (although idles smoothly) it feels like it's running on 5 pots until 2000rpm when it evens out and runs smoothly. I'm running through some injector cleaner with the last petrol fill up, as I thought it could possibly be a blocked injector. The injector cleaner doesn't seem to have made any difference, so I fitted a new set of plugs and leads on Saturday, suspecting a failing lead but there is no difference. Where should I look next? An unrelated issue, the Kenlow fan was running more than usual, so I changed the thermostat (82
  6. I have tried to start my TR6 after 18 months in storage. Following a process of elimination I have settled on the metering unit as the culprit? Fuel reaches the m. unit from the tank and the engine runs for a few seconds with 'Easy Start' sprayed into the air intake. I have also added fresh petrol so as to dilute the 'old' fuel. The metering unit was fitted new about 2 years ago and was running fine at that time. Any advise anyone can give as to how to tackle the m. unit assuming that is the problem would be greatly appreciated. David.
  7. Anyone still got one of the old Piranha units fitted and could check something for me. Just be sorting an under power missfire on a TR8 which turned out to be down to both a **** new Distributor Cap and **** rotor arm. But anyway in looking for causes I noticed that the Piranha rotor in the distributor seems to have about 5-10deg float on its locating collar. Having never played with a Piranha unit before I don't know if this is normal or not, and a trawl of the web hasn't revealed an answer. Whilst I'm fairly certain that this unit is a decade old from being fitted, I'm fairly certai
  8. Whenever I stop at lights etc, the car Idles @800rpm and then the idle speed drops before my eyes to zero. I now have to keep my foot on the accelerator pedal to keep the car at 800rm. Apart from thus problem , the car is running fine. Pointers please
  9. My TR7 V8 pop ups work fine except, on daylight flash, the lights come on but have gone off by the time they have popped up! Whilst up, the lights will come on while holding the daylight flasher. The main dashboard switch works fine. It's driving me nuts trying to find the problem. Any ideas anyone....please.
  10. Two issues. First one is wiper motor running very slow on slow speed but ok on fast speed. I have fiddled around trying to line up commutator with floating bearings each end and also cleaned out all old grease that had gone hard. Problem can be seen with motor on the bench. Brushes and commutator look ok. Any ideas? Second problem is that the 3 wires are now 50 years old and need replacing. What size wires are recommended - 8 amp, 10 amp, 15 amp? I can get correct colour coded wires once I know what ampage I need. Keith
  11. Everyone knows that faults which are intermittent are the hardest to find. This motor would run for ages and then just refuse to start. After a while it would go again. Eventually the owner got desperate and sent it to me. It seemed fine at first. I gave it my usual clean, lubricate and service. Then it just stopped. I popped in a spare armature and off it went. My standard armature test soon showed an open-circuit but on close inspection this proved an easy fix. Over 50 years ago the production operator failed to solder this joint. This thing has survived all this time jus
  12. Cracking day at Castle Combe on Tuesday but not without a few issues. OGB is a TR2 with twin Weber 45’s and a few other bits but with a standard mechanical fuel pump. First two sessions, the engine’s on song, running well and pulling hard. Towards the end of the second session the engine cut out and I coasted in. Enlisted the help of Carl and Dan from Revington TR (thanks again guys) and it proved to be the pivot pin on the pump lever had fallen out resulting in no fuel to the carbs. Swopped in a new pump, another session, on song again, problem sorted. Went out for the next se
  13. Took the car for a 140 mile spin a week or so ago and it ran like a dream. Took it out yesterday and while it was still running fine, I noticed that the temperature gauge was up at the 4th white mark before I'd reached the end of the street. Today, I flushed the cooling system - was due anyway - and confirmed that water is flowing as I'd expect. I also ran the engine and noticed that the various pipes and thermostat seem to get warm as one would expect. I disconnected the gauge from the temp sender and it dropped to zero. I also checked the gauge with the ignition on, engine cold,
  14. tr6tuga

    fuel filter

    On summer holidays at my grand parents, had the chanse to read Somerset Maugham's collected short stories, and that inspired me to sugest forum managers to to edit a TR6 collected short stories:-) I post a couple of topics concerning erratic engine running at 1500 rpm, pointing to fuel starvation The story began in 2014, and almost every sugestion, advice,clue, experience from the forum was applied, just to name a few, replacement fuel lines, injectors, MU, PRV! lucas pump, head conversion, dizy, contacts, dito, chasing rabbits:-) Yesterday, decided to recheck if there were some
  15. Good evening. I'm adding this post on behalf of a fellow Register member and friend who runs a 1973 US restored Triumph TR6. The car is presently running twin SU carburettors. The following is a list of symptoms and work undertaken so on the car to try and identify the problem. Sadly so far we have been unable to get the car to start and run properly. TR6 running on twin SUs One day running perfectly and then after a few weeks without use engine will start but not run. Much back firing and un-burnt fuel being thrown out All plugs go sooty black within a minute Points, rotor
  16. Knowledgeable forum! My quest for finding the erratic picking up is driving me nuts! It's a 1971 PI Electrics all check no voltage drops all across battery and fuel pump Dizy, leads, spark, timming check New valves set, head gasket, valve clearance rest Compression test less than 5% variation Fuel line, all check, clean tank, new / refurbish lucas pump, PRV, MU, injectors, fuel hoses Fuel pressure at PRV and MU 110 psi constant. After a looong time bleding the lines finally got the six injectors cone spraying. Engine starts a firts runs unenven, them as soon hits the trotle it st
  17. Happy New Year everyone! In anticipation of my road trip to the Laon Historique Festival this May, I’ve decided that it’s time to sort out the strange noises coming from the rear of my ’63 TR4. I wonder if you could help me to diagnose where the problem is likely to be? It’s a series of loud knocks, bangs and squeaks which I can only hear when I drive over bumps and into potholes (not deliberately, I might add!). The noise isn’t there when I’m driving on a level road although I’ve sensed some slight ‘movement’ when I drive into bends, like something is slipping at the rear. I’ve alrea
  18. I recently fitted an electronic ignition system, a new fuel pump diaphragm and a new pump outlet valve (the old one was sticking). The car starts without any problem and when warm idles at a steady 800rpm and will also rev freely however on the road it is another matter. Even when hot it drives in spurts as if it needs some choke which when applied doesn't make any difference, I have no evidence of a blockage, the tank is two years old and I run with a fuel filter which is clean so I suspect that the pump is not delivering sufficient flow under normal driving. My question is how can I chec
  19. Hey All, In March I went on a long drive across Malaysia from penang via cameron highlands to east coast and up to kota baru. As I descended cameron highlands the misfire became obvious...a few hours later and the loud banging noise under power was disturbing the locals... Today I finally had a chance to dig in and fix the problem....my cam lost one lobe almost completely...this cam has 120kmiles fitted in 1992 from C&B. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B18oPAukFCEebHFKcTE0RkZJYjA/view?usp=docslist_api https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B18oPAukFCEea040RWJvY296Tzg/view?usp=docslist_ap
  20. When I stripped my TR down I found the wiper wheel box cover plates (See pictures) had mastic around them. I guess this was a waterproof seal to stop water from around the wipers getting back in to the car. I also found the same mastic on the heater hose plate that is also attached to the bulkhead. My guess is, that this mastic was done during a previous restoration a long time ago? Was mastic used in the factory? If so what mastic should I use now? A clear mastic might look better than the black treacle I found? If it wasn't used, is it a good idea in this location?
  21. Well the beast is alive. Took ages to 'fire' (if only i had known!) up....until i turned the jet to 11 flats down (could be old fuel - it is after all 15 weeks old !!!) Kept starting, but dying at anything below 2,000 rpm, but eventuaually managed to tick over when warmed up. Sounded a tad rough (always has) and was still smokey (if only i had known). Took it out for a run, lots of coughing under load and backfiring........but only managed 1 1/2 miles before the fire started 😱 ... ... ... Fortunately not fuel related, but exhaust wrap that I had put on in an atte
  22. Hi all, For some time I have had a bit of a problem with the gearbox on my TR6 - more specifically, with the clutch which can be sticky in action. Its only an issue when pulling away in first but I think the time has come for me to resolve it. The gearbox was removed (not by me) a couple of years ago to replace the starter ring gear and it hasn't been the same since, so having read through other posts, I am wondering if it may simply be an alignment issue. My first plan of action is to loosen the bell housing bolts slightly, engage the clutch a few times then retighten the bolts t
  23. Good afternoon forum members, I was asked by a fellow member to assist him with a failed rev-counter on his 1973 CR TR6. The instrument has simply stopped working with no obvious signs of failure. All other instruments are working fine including the two bulbs in the rev-counter which illuminate when you turn the ignition on. I have checked the fuses and the fuse box which all seems fine. I have also checked the drive from the distributor (at the distributor end) which also appears to be working OK. I have suggested that we will need to remove the instrument to have a look at the drive in
  24. TR6SAF

    Metering unit

    Hi everyone, I have a problem with my metering unit leaking petrol from the control end of the metering unit, which I beleive is due to the failure of the seal between the metering unit and the control unit. I have removed the unit and removed the seal, but I cannot see any split, but intend to change it anyway. When I removed the diaphragm I noticed that the small section of seal that locates on the adjustable shuttle stop was not fixed to the rest of the centre of the diaphragm, is it supposed to be fixed or glued to the centre? if so what type of glue should be used? I cannot find any refer
  25. Can anybody help. My tr4a, reliable for over 10 years in my ownership developed a problem last Spring where after driving about 20 miles it would begin to misfire and soon after would cut out completely and refuse to start again for 15 minutes. After which it was fine and the cycle began again. The problem has slowly become worse throughout the Summer and now I cannot even get to the end of the road! I have changed every part of the ignition system; coil, leads, plugs, points, condenser, dist.cap and arm. There is fuel in the carbs. I have reached the end of my knowledge. Any ideas?
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