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  1. Hi all, I’ve recently found an oil leak coming from a hole on the bellhousing and I can’t figure out what it is from the Haynes manual or info online. The hole looks like a bolt hole minus the bolt. However, it looks a bit larger than the others and has a raised ring surrounding it. Also, there is another, smaller, hole close by on the left which isn’t leaking. Does anyone know what the situation is here? Should something be screwed in? I’ve attached a couple of photos. It’s a 1981 car, 5 speed, 2 litre. Any knowledge, suggestions gratefully received. Thanks all,
  2. tr6tuga

    Heater valve

    Just after 2k of service, supplied by rimmers any advice este to get a good One?
  3. April Issue 297 of TR Action carries an article about poor starting associated with braided injector pipes. I fitted Exact branded pipes February 2016 and of late starting has being getting worse and worse - in fact exactly as described in the article. Has anyone else found this? John
  4. I have a thrumming vibration coming from the rear of my TR6. It starts at about 65 mph but goes quiet on lifting off the throttle. The diff mounts have been replaced but the vibration remains. There does not seem to be any obvious UJ issues. I have heavy duty rear outer drive shafts fitted. Any thoughts as how to isolate the problem ? MARK
  5. Hi Fellow Members I'm in the process of sticking everything back together again on my 1976 USA imported lhd TR6 and been having a few problems with the electrics. Fortunately, I seem to have solved most of them but am now left with one that has got me totally frustrated. As indicated in the title it involves the indicators. When I indicate left I get the rear and side indicators coming on but instead of the front indicator I get the side light. When I indicate right I get just the side and rear indicators lighting up. When I try the Hazard lights I get one ping from the relay and the
  6. Had car out last night for run up the glens and noticed my idle speed started to creep when the car gets hot....it's about 900 when cold but as it heats up it creeps to about 1200 doesn't (so far) go above about 1200...any help appreciated , Regards Jas
  7. Hello, not sure if this is where I should post, but here goes, I have an ecoair dehumidifier, DD122 Classic Mk5 that is playing up, briefly, it switches itself off after 20 minutes running on all three settings, I have checked the manual, no help, after having searched on t'internet it appears it could be a thermal cutout, anybody on here got any advice, experience, wiring diagram before I consign to the tip and buy another, it seems such a waste as the thing is not long out of warranty, cheers, Andrew
  8. Hi everyone, I'm really looking for help and inspiration to solve a fuel related misfire now that all logical fault finding paths seem to be exhausted! Am running a 1975 CR which has been getting progressively richer during the past few years, so finally, after many attempts at tuning, the exhaust smell prompted me to exchange the metering unit. Then things got a little crazy! I chose the correct MU for the CR engine and had to modify the fuel return as this version of the MU only has the screw fitting, but the car had been built at some time in the past with a push fitting pipe conne
  9. Hi all I have a 1972 PI with ignition on the steering column. I discovered the other day that the spring that returns the ignition key from "start" to "run" appears to have failed. Before going the whole hog and replacing the ignition unit (which seems like a sledgehammer to crack a nut) I want to remove the ignition barrel and do some investigation. Plenty of instructions on how to do that, but I can't for the life of me find how to remove the padded trim around the keyhole. How is it fixed - I don't want to force it. Any guidance gratefully received!
  10. Farly6

    Petrol Smell!

    I have been trying to sort out this issue for ever and getting no where fast! So I'm appealing for help. I have tried to find a discussion forum about this but cant.. so here goes. I am the owner of a late model UK CR TR6, which has standard fuel injection and a fast road cam. It has the twin tail pipe sports exhaust. The problem is that the boot is constantly smells of petrol. Its so bad that you cant really put bags in the boot. I have replaced many of the pipes around the Bosch fuel injection pump, fitted proper petrol pipes and petrol clips and the seals in the tap in the bottom o
  11. What is the failure mode on these? My fuel and temp gauges pegged themselves ( to the high end ) today, correcting themselves after some time. What else could be the culprit? Cheers, Tom
  12. My 3A has progressively been driving me crazy with intermittent missing and poor running. Convinced it was fuel related, after making my first foray onto the forum: I pulled and flushed the tank out. - Still, even with hindsight, a good job done. Got the fuel pump rebuilt - Still a v good job done and absolute pleasure to make acquaintance of such a knowledgable Gentleman; Dave Davis. Fiddled and fiddled around with the carbs - Not such a good job done, if anything suspect Ive made them worse.. But, again, got some really knowledgable help via the forum I pulled out and pulled out the plug
  13. Now, where exactly does it plug in.....? - No rude answers thank you! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRO-OBD2-Diagnostic-Code-Reader-Fault-reset-Scanner-for-TRIUMPH-TR4-6/173367546376?hash=item285d82d208:g:IRQAAOSw5P9bJR5d
  14. Hi folks, Gutted not to be out & about in S Wales tomorrow. Reason? My TR4 has received a gearbox overhaul and new clutch cover, plate, and release bearing & carrier. Just about got everything back when my mate suggests we check all is well. With engine off, all gears are smoothly accessed. Engine running, blah, blah, can't get it into gear! Pump & pump the clutch pedal, and eventually it just about gets drive. Evidence of serious wear on clutch pedal pivot, and bad grooving on the cotter pin connecting the pedal to master cylinder. Tried altering cross shaf
  15. Hello Again, tackling the next problem now, tracked my air leak down to the interface between inlet manifold and head, I used Racetorations 'high specification competition gasket' but it is not sealing, I am using standard 4A exhaust manifold and Bastuk Weber inlet manifolds, the only discrepancy is about 50 thou difference between the thickness of the two clamping points, will that affect the clamping? and can I use a gasket cement to assist, as always, many thanks for the help, cheers, Andrew
  16. Hi Troops - thank you Roger for earlier advice re wheel boxes, delved deeper and the wheel boxes appear to be in quite good condition, checked back through the car bills and found a receipt from '87 for 2 new ones, bearing in mind the car is rarely driven in rain the wheel boxes have been hardly used. The problem with drivers side wiper is the over large hole in the bodywork that the the wheel box comes through. I attach a photo. She is in my garage with dashboard out, anyone else had this problem? any thoughts on an easy repair? The other wiper is fine Would appreciate your feedback
  17. Hello All, one step forward, two steps back, a bit of a strange one, car carries on running after the ignition is switched off when the engine is racing (another problem), pulling the ignition lead from the coil stops it so for some reason, yet to be determined, the coil is being energized. The ignition switch is fine, I have tested a dozen times with my continuity tester and no signs of any issues. After mulling over my wiring diagram the only source of power I can see is from the alternator when the car is running, ie, alternator - ignition light - ignition switch contact/same contact to c
  18. In a FB thread for the Tr5ers was discussing bad suppliers and bad parts. Not that I am in need right now but was wondering if there is maybe a list of worst repro parts ? Would be good to know the danger areas. Certainly would keep cowboys on the hop but ...No need to necessarily name names just maybe know what needs consideration as you go? What are the parts where we are most at risk? Tony
  19. Yesterday my TR6 failed it's MOT Because when the brake lights (which are LED ) were applied the front side lights also came on. The garage replaced my LED bulbs with standard filament ones the fault went away. Can anybody explain this or hopefully suggest how I can put the LED bulbs back and prevent the same thing happening. John
  20. I removed my engine fan and now there is a lot of noise, it was present before but not as noticeable as it is now. I had thought that this was the water pump, this has been replaced, it's not alternator as I've had two different units on today and no difference. Thoughts please? Noise.mov
  21. Willie


    Hi Everyone. A seasonal conundrum - I can't get any heat out of the heater!! Scuttle vent lid OPEN, heater core backflushed and found to have a healthy water flow. New heater control valve fitted. Both heater hoses hot during test and heater box also pleasantly warm to the touch. Blower fan aking a blower noise so assumed to be working [negative discharge on voltmeter also suggesting it is running]. I assume the airduct control cable is pushed in fully to divert all airflow to the screen vent outlets? Only thing missing appears to be hot air!! HELP!! Best wishes Willie
  22. Gents, since a few weeks i'm dealing with strange electrical gremlins: intermittent spark failure which i though being the coil, then condenser, then points, then leads, then rotor arm, etc... Ignition would stop working for a few hours then start again. When i'll put a test lamp on the (+) of the coil...the electric fan would kick in... Then i tried installing a 2-speed wiper motor supplied by AlanT and I got 12 V on both green-brown and green-red with the green connected to 12 V.... Then today, few bangs-black-smoke-bang and the engine died on the highway. Two cops came to rescue, 1 holding
  23. In preparation for the arrival of a 123Ignition Tune+ i decided to take ignition advance readings from my car as a starting point. I got readings using a Gunsons Advanced timing light of : Tickover, about 800 revs, 16 btdc 1000 17 1500 18 2000 22 2500 26 3000 28 3500 30 4000 36 I then backed the ignition off to 12 btdc and the idle slowed and was rougher, engine much happier at 16, and no pinking under load at any revs. This doesnt seem quite right, as even though my engine is modified, i dont have full details but +60 forged pistons and possibly a 777 cam ( 145 bhp at t
  24. Hi, I am looking for some help and this is my first foray into the TR Register Forum. My TR6 seems to be running lumpy/hesitant from idle up to around 2.5k revs. Throttle response doesn't seem to be as crisp as it was before. The car was running fine, sat for maybe 4/6 weeks without a proper drive out then developed this problem. Higher up the rev range it seems to sound okay. I have a coolant leak from somewhere front nearside which I think may be the top hose but thats a seperate issue which should be easily found/fixed and possibly unrelated to the above. I am new to the clas
  25. The front engine block sump bolt thread on TR2-4 is a textbook source for oil leak. Forget the washer in refitting the sump bolt or try putting a longer bolt if the thread is damaged and the aluminum block will crack giving way to oil leak "from the sump". This adds up to the long list of potential leaks from the engine block.
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