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  1. The number plate lamps on my CR based 6 ( engine isnt CR) were, well, knackered! One was cracked, both had been partially painted over, innards decidedly 'old' So had a search and ebay came up with a set of new lamps, with fittings and bulbs for less than £20. Supposedly made using the original machinery. Turned up in the post today, nice quality, fitted perfectly and work too! So a recommendation for ANG Classic Car Parts on Ebay, I've used them a couple of times and always been happy. No connection just a happy customer......😀 Steve
  2. Overdrive has never worked since I bought my TR5 a while ago. The relay could be heard clicking on switching into overdrive (in 2nd, 3rd and 4th) but no movement /noise from the solenoid. I recently removed the gearbox tunnel as part of an exhaust change (new brackets need etc) and decided to get to grips with the o/d problem. A quick test showed that there is 12v to the solenoid when overdrive is switched in but o/d does not engage. A quick inspection of the solenoid revealed a brown substance resembling molten resin which had run down the cylinder internally I think and solidified around th
  3. Hi there Bit of a mix of topics here! I'm about to change the silencer on my TR5. The current box has a hole blown in it. Fortunately I was given a new spare mild steel box when I bought the car so am fitting that while I decide whether to undertake a body off repaint and other work, maybe a stainless exhaust. For the current situation can anyone guide me as to the best (original?) clamping method where the mild steel tail pipes joins the middle section of the system eg standard U clamp, single clamp etc and where to buy (if unusual item)? Also looking to replace the radio and want
  4. Hi, Does anybody know where I can find a diagram or picture that shows the fitting location for all the under dash relays. Car is a 74 although the wiring seems to be from an earlier model. Many Thanks Dave
  5. I'm after some help / ideas After removing and refitting the speedo on my 73 - CR car, the "green" electric circuit stopped working So I isolated the white wire from the ignition switch and and at the fuse box and battery totally disconnected Put 12V down the wire and checked with multi meter - 12V See attached diagram But if I put the earth connection onto the battery - 0V Then lastly I checked the voltage between the car body and the neg battery terminal - 12V Did not quite isolate the white wire from the ignition as there were two wires running to the same lucar
  6. Gents 50yds from home, I've coasted to a stop with no ignition and no indicators??? A quick shove up the incline has her safely on the drive, but now, the questions begin; I have; - '75 plate ('74 built) '6' - luminition ignition (fitted by the PO) - Fuel pump running - No electrical life in the cylinders She has run well and pulled like a train since Clive Manvers sorted out the air and fuel delivery late last year Today she has started on the button, but, 7 miles and 3 starts later, she just died, quietly, with no fuss If it were just ignition, I would eliminate all th
  7. I have been behind my dash, to tighten the two bolts of the steering column clamp to the fascia. I have removed the speedo, but the tacho would not budge. I also wanted to test the Voltage stabiliser to see if its output is 10v, I then realised I have no power/voltage to all the "green" circuits. No voltage at the fuse box for that circuit, either side of the fuse. Looking at the wiring diagram ('73 CR) - there is a white wire running from the ignition switch to the fuse box for that circuit, I presume I have disturbed something. Question: Is the ignition switch wiring all enclosed
  8. It may be helpful for people to post their experiences of in-car cameras here ? Not a recommendation from me, just an on-line group review to kick off - they are not as straight forward as I had assumed ! http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/test-centre/photo-video/best-dash-cam-best-car-dash-cams-2016-3632857/
  9. My TR4 has been converted to negative earth and fitted with Alternator. Problem is when start engine, ignition warning light does not go out and ammeter shows slight discharge until I rev engine to 2000rpm. At this point warning light goes out and ammeter shows charging in progress. As soon as I take foot off accelerator and revs drop down warning light comes back on etc. So when car is idling there is a discharge showing on ammeter. I have changed alternator to see if this was faulty but got same result. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  10. Hi All Feels like I'm running out of thread in the side light indicator housing (stripped). Whats the fix for this? I assume there's an easy fix (bodge) and a difficult (proper job). Many thanks
  11. I need to look at my electrickery over the w/e. On the way up to Silverstone the wife (following in the support non-TRuck) pointed out that my brake lights (both) were not working. On the way back I noticed that the only dash light working was the new ammeter - which shone brightly - every thing else under the spell of the lord of darkness. Otherwise front and rear lamps and indicators were fine and no other obvious electrical 'outs'. Before I start poking around and making things worse, is there a common fuse for dash and brake lamps that might explain this coincidence/chain r
  12. The reason for this post is to warn others of something that may have been overlooked. En route to Classic Le Mans my CR failed to start after a coffee break. Turn key no ignition starter turned fine but no ignition. I connected a lead from a fused +ve I am using for my headlight relay to the fuseboard and got going, had to manualy break the circuit to stop the car but it got me there and home. I removed the ignition switch from the back of the steering lock fiddly but easy doable. On testing it I found it to be iffy on most connections. I ordered a repalcement which is now fitted and I am
  13. Sometimes the horn works, other times not. It's something to do with the area behind the steering wheel. Had it all apart again today, cleaned everything, spring pin checked for continuity, worked immediately until I turned the wheel and then it stopped working again. Turned wheel back and working again! Mot in a couple days time so must solve this. Anyone else had this issue? Thanks Bob
  14. I need some help from an electrical expert please. I need to connect a socket for the sat nav. My car is still +earth so I have to be careful. I will connect the socket pin to my earth and the socket body to a supply. Which would be the best connection point? I will also fit an in line fuse. What rating should it have? I hope that I am doing this the right way. Any advice would be very helpful. Thanks Richard & H.
  15. I need to use the Sat Nav in the TR but I have no socket. I can buy a double output unit from Halfords, but I will need to cut off the plug and wire it directly in to my car. I am also positive earth so I will rivet the unit to the underside of the glove box, to avoid any possible short. Where shall I connect for the power and earth and will I be able to make satisfactory connections after cutting off the plug supplied? The cable looks very thin. Has anyone else tried this ? There are some advertised for £1.20 including postage from Hong Kong. how is this possible? I would prefer to
  16. Hello, is this for real? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182158765074?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I have a pair in my 4a, if it is they are coming off to be wrapped in cotton wool!! Andrew
  17. I am trying to install an intermittent wipe function in my TR6. I would like it to work when the wipers are on slow, so I can switch the wipers on as normal (slow), then to use another switch to change them between slow-constant and slow-intermittent. I know many fellow 6 owners that would love this feature and indeed, I know many already have it. I have bought a simple Nagares time delay relay which came with the wiring diagram I have attached below, but I know I need more than this. I have read all the posts I can find in the forum on this topic and there seem to be quite a few people wh
  18. Hi All My indicators are working but there is no life from the green indicator in the dash. I can reach back and touch the back of the bulb casing and don't know how to disconnect it so I can check whats wrong. Do i have to pull the whole dash out? I bet this is an easy fix if you know what you are doing but i am i bit of an amateur and reluctant to force anything. Thank you guys and I really love all the chat and help on the forum!! Now i need some assistance. I have a 65 TR4a in white which i have owned for about 6 years. This was rebuilt to a very high standard by the Nort
  19. My TR7 V8 pop ups work fine except, on daylight flash, the lights come on but have gone off by the time they have popped up! Whilst up, the lights will come on while holding the daylight flasher. The main dashboard switch works fine. It's driving me nuts trying to find the problem. Any ideas anyone....please.
  20. I have just (finally) got round to fitting RHD headlights to my TR250 to avoid problems at its forthcoming MOT however they seem very loose behind the chrome rings. The old ones were a snug fit but even with the rings screwed down fully these will rattle around a bit on the road. A couple of solutions I have thought of: 1. Bend the loops for the indents on the lights out so they sit further out. ( Seems risky as something may break!) 2. Put some packing either in the ring or round the edge of the headlight. I have some aluminium tape which would do without creating a fire hazard!
  21. Two issues. First one is wiper motor running very slow on slow speed but ok on fast speed. I have fiddled around trying to line up commutator with floating bearings each end and also cleaned out all old grease that had gone hard. Problem can be seen with motor on the bench. Brushes and commutator look ok. Any ideas? Second problem is that the 3 wires are now 50 years old and need replacing. What size wires are recommended - 8 amp, 10 amp, 15 amp? I can get correct colour coded wires once I know what ampage I need. Keith
  22. Everyone knows that faults which are intermittent are the hardest to find. This motor would run for ages and then just refuse to start. After a while it would go again. Eventually the owner got desperate and sent it to me. It seemed fine at first. I gave it my usual clean, lubricate and service. Then it just stopped. I popped in a spare armature and off it went. My standard armature test soon showed an open-circuit but on close inspection this proved an easy fix. Over 50 years ago the production operator failed to solder this joint. This thing has survived all this time jus
  23. Anyone interested in ganging up for this? There's for close to 10K £ at retail price http://www.ebay.com/itm/triumph-tr-4-bulk-parts-/172035202964?hash=item280e18df94:g:64EAAOSw14xWJocA&vxp=mtr Edit: Had a phone call with the seller to inquire about specific parts i.e. grille and hardtop. He just sent me the pics below he had at hand....Enough for me to clic the "buy" button. Now the boring logisitic will start, everything must be out by the end of February. Will get and post more pictures of the treasure chest later on More pics....
  24. Just for something to do I'm going to fit a fuel pump relay in the boot. Fortunately when I trimmed the car I'd run some sleeving in and put a draw wire in. The question is though where do I pick up the live feed from? The positive lead has all the spare spade terminals used. So that leaves the back of the starter motor but to me that seems a bit untidy. Is there a positive lead available with more (large size) spade terminals fitted or will I have to go for one of those fancy battery terminals with the extra connections?
  25. I am in need of an original 4TR Regulator as above please, if anyone has one hidden away in the garage, Thanks in anticipation, Cheers, Conrad.
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