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  1. Cleaned the plugs and checked plug leads late, the night before going on a run on my TR 6 which has an Acuspark electronic ignition unit in the distributor. It ran badly the next day , losing power as the revs rose and coughing , spitting (Triple Webers). However managed about 100 miles leading a group of friends. Back at home I checked my TR6 and found that had accidently connected both wires of the ignition module to the negative terminal on the coil (Aldon Flame Thrower). Correctly connected with one wire of ignition unit on pos. terminal of coil and my car got its mojo back !!! . How did
  2. HA HA, ha ha, b*ll*cks. Went out for a lovely drive to a local pub yesterday early evening, enjoying the new alternator, narrow belt and electric fan. Had a good pint of landlord sitting in the sun. Empty lanes on the way back driving into the setting sun, then whoof - a load of smoke from under the dashboard. I impressed Hazel and myself by isolating the battery within about 5 seconds (even though the switch is deep in the footwell on her side) and having the fire extinguisher out in about another 10 (but I may be exaggerating). I didn't use the extinguisher as the smoke cleared. After c
  3. Slightly off topic - working on my 1984 Mini 25 which has a ballast wire system - The PO was a bit of a "maverick" Brake callipers fitted upside down (bleed nipples pointing down!) 2 brake compensators fitted etc, etc - because of this and as I'm working through the ignition system, can someone confirm that using a multimeter set to 20k OHMS, testing the Positive terminal and the HT lead terminal of the coil, if I get a reading above 1.5 (1500) that the COIL is a NON ballast type coil ?? The reading I get is 6.35 so I suspect that this is a standard coil (I cannot see any markings or labels
  4. How many amps should a standard alternator deliver? Is there a way of checking performance other than turning the headlights on and looking at the ammeter?JJC
  5. Hello, not strictly technical................ I am flogging a couple of old Bosch lights on Fleabay and there is interest from Japan, initial search brings up costs in excess of £200, with additional packaging the parcel will weigh in at 4kg and be around 600mm x 400mm x400mm, can anyone help?, cheers, Andrew
  6. A Coil Conundrum ! I've had this original Lucas red coil for some time with the thought it might make a good spare for travelling etc. Problem is I'm not completely certain about its suitability for a CR TR6. The label says "for use only with 0.9- 1.25 Ohm ballast" and I'm unsure what ballast a CR TR6 loom comes with - could someone advise please? It also claims to be a "12v High Energy Power Coil" and on a CR TR it will only see 12v for the start-up, then approx 8-9v I think when running. I've measured the primary resistance and it reads 2.3 Ohm, thats pretty much half wa
  7. kcsun

    Alternator

    What is the expected voltage from an alternator?? The ignition light goes out on my car and the voltmeter on the dash slowly creeps up to just over 13, checked with a digital meter on the battery terminals and depending on revs the meter only goes up to 13.5 ish volts? kc
  8. A question for any of the electrical experts out there ....... My TR6 alternator is simply marked as 14v 45A A115 type (it has a Lucas Electrik sticker with 24 026 on it). The concern is I'm only seeing 13v across the battery terminals at tickover, and only 13.8v when revved harder. If I turn the headlamps on the voltage drops back towards 13v again. I think this is 1v less than it should be, doesn't sound much difference I know but the battery isn't that old and I'm having to separately charge it. The alternator is under 2yrs old btw. Has anyone taken an alternator volta
  9. I thought it would be useful to post some words and pictures on how I recently fitted LED strip lights to vastly improve the illumination in my boot. Hopefully the pictures tell the story, but here are some points to note: The c.45 degree edge on the boot frame provides an ideal mounting point for self-adhesive LED strips 30cm long as the angle means they flood the boot with light when the boot is open. I used red heatshrink to protect and camouflage the wiring to the LEDs. The wires are fed into the space behind the boot card by using the boot hinge assemblies and connected
  10. I see there have been a few posts recently around this area so apologies but given the consequences of me getting this wrong I wanted an unambiguous thread. When I ordered my new wiring loom for BUO, CP series TR6, I spec'd an upgraded relay fed supply for the fuel pump, and feed for electric fan. All good I thought .............no the fuel pump and fan feeds were taken directly from the back of the starter motor ie the non load side of the ammeter so if it (the ammeter) was of any use when it was fitted to the car in '72 it not doing much good now. I'm planning to pull my cur
  11. Have started to install the dashboard and instruments on the 5 and have got to the rheostat. The hexagonal 'driveshaft' has a sprung button on it as do all the other controls of that type but the black control knob does not have a hole for the button to spring into. Is that normal and if so is there any benefit in drilling a hole. Obviously there is no 'pull' action on the rheostat as with the other control knobs? Many thanks, Tim
  12. Another question! Installed the new wiring harness, supplied by AutoSparks, and am now slowly connecting up. Have now realised that having asked for "the standard primary wiring harness and standard secondary harnesses for gearbox, overdrive" , and emphasised in writing that the car does have overdrive, the loom has nothing for gearbox and overdrive. I assumed that this would have been part of the main harness - am I wrong - is it supplied as a separate harness and not integral with the main harness? Your views welcomed as usual. Thanks, Tim
  13. Can someone help with a fuse rating. I have a relay for the two front spot lamps. The relay takes a signal from the high beam feed and then connects main power. The fuse has gone missing and I am not sure what rating would be correct. It is a coloured blade fuse. I have a card of different coloured blade fuses but can not see a rating on the individual fuses. I need to know the rating and the colour if significant. Thanks Richard & B.
  14. This fault was new to me, the engine wasn't running well, so I tried tuning carbs and ignition and checked the plugs. I didn't get any result and it seemed that it ran even worse after checking the plugs. This continued until I finally discovered that the brass insert in the cap, of one of the caps, was stuck on the plug. Checking the other caps showed that 3 out of 4 brass connectors were loose. Substituted them for considerably more expensive caps and the engine is now running as it should. So, advice to myself, stop buying cheap stuff!
  15. Does anybody have clear wiring diagram for a 5 please? Many thanks, Tim
  16. Hi Troops - a quick question that I hope you can help with. My temperature gauge has been over-reading for some while and I ordered a new 85 degree temperature switch from RS Components. The packet has arrived and it states 100 degrees and 100 is printed on the switch itself. I've been on the 'chatline' to RS and it appears there is an error on their website specification for this item (it clearly states 85 degrees). RS components don''t have 85 degrees, they do have 75 degrees. I'm obviously no techie so not sure what to do? Any advice very much appreciated as always.
  17. Keith66

    Headlights

    Hi All Looking at making the switch from std bulbs to LED’s and looking for some views and feedback. No issue for the interior and the exterior bulbs like indicators brakes etc, but unsure about headlights. My car currently still has the original type sealed beam units and I know they are not great so I do want to upgrade, but a few choices so I thought I’d ask for some feedback from those who have the diff options fitted. First and simplest would be to upgrade to Halogen units but does it enough improvement. Secondly Xenons, my understanding is that fitting Xenons alt
  18. This topic has been prompted by wiper-brush kits becoming available on eBay for much lower prices than hitherto, £12 as against £25 or more. And I bought a DR2 from 1958 with the classic destroyed commutator, caused by running with worn-out brushes. A few years back I'd have to store a motor like this until a new armature turned up. Both DR2 and DR3A wiper-motors will run to destruction without carbon-brushes. This one was running OK, if a bit squeaky. Then I bought some commutators from the US and could fix them. But after shipping, import cost and VAT these worked out to c
  19. Hi all, went to the garage to start the car and it won't start! It is a 73 PI CR engine with a Luminition system which I fitted 5 years ago and has worked perfectly until now. I turn the ignition on and there is 12v at the coil, I then start churning the starter motor and the voltage at the coil drops to about 9 - 9.5v. The engine does not fire, when I release the ignition switch the engine fires on the release and tries to start???? If it fires successfully the engine runs OK. I do not think there is any spark while the starter is churning but is a bit difficult to see as I have only one
  20. Hi all Im trying to source some cibie headlights. Looking at past threads 082441 seems to be the right part number but it seems they are no longer available. Ive ordered a couple of times only to find the order cancelled because they cant get hold of them. Ive got them on my TR4 and looking for some for my GT6. Any help appreciated. regards Bob
  21. Hi, Just wondering if anybody could point me in the right direction to buy a coloured wiring diagram for my TR7 1981 UK car. I have unfortunately tried to use the many websites that advertise TR7 wiring diagrams under google images , but most if not all turn out to be scams looking for payment card details and hidden monthly subscriptions. Very frustrating for your average classic car enthusiast. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks in Advance Paul
  22. More electrical gremlins on my 73 cr tr6! My horns stopped working and I found the fuse -35 Amp had blown. I replaced this and all was well. I checked for any obvious wiring issues and found none. On taking car for MOT I checked horn on the way and found fuse had gone again! I replaced fuse just before reaching the MOT station and it lasted for the test however by the time I got home the fuse had gone again! This fuse covers the horns,all interior lights and the headlamp flasher. All bulbs on interior lights (underdash, boot) are not fitted at the moment. the glove box bulb operated
  23. Hi I tried to start my TR5 which had been stood for a while and found whilst the battery was allowing the Bosch fuel pump to whir when I turned the key there wasn't enough juice in the battery to start the car - no surprises there. However having removed the battery, charged it up etc I then turned the key to find that the fuel pump is silent and clearly not working so the starter motor is clicking away with no fuel coming through. I have checked the fuses, I have checked all the wires connecting to the fuel pump but can't find any obvious issues. Seems very strange when all I have don
  24. Hi, I've done a forum search and a general google to try and answer the question I'm about to ask but end up going around in circles and getting more confused so I'm hoping there's a straightforward answer. I've got standard rear bulb holders and struggling to get a decent earth. I've run an extra ground cable to each bulb holder but still only some of the lights work consistently. I've read about people soldering an extra tab to the bulb holders, and others using stag bulb holders. My question is, do all stag bulb holders have the extra earth tab fitted as standard? Thanks,
  25. Hi All Some more advice please. My car has not run in a long long time, in reality it probably ran for less than 15 years before being taken off the road. So I’ve got what appears to be an original Lucas distributor. Do I just clean it up stick in new points and a condenser and put it back or get it refurbished by Distributor Doctor (or similar) or exchange it? (any other suggestions welcome) What slightly puzzles me is that if Distributor Doctor refurb it that’s £195 but if Moss (not usually that cheap) supply a refurb one on exchange its £165. I’m te
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