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  1. Hello, some of you may recall I fitted Efi to my 4a, this included an ECU which can be connected to a laptop enabling the user to monitor many aspects of the engines condition. My car has always run cool as per gauge, between 65 and 70 degrees C, only creeping above when stationary and soon brought back under control with the electric fan. I had to fit a second temp sensor to supply the ECU, today I took the car out with my son-in-law driving, me with lap top on knee, surprisingly, or not, there was a difference between gauge and ECU temperature of 15 degrees C with the gauge reading low, al
  2. Following my recent incident with what I think turned out to be a sticking cam follower I have been putting some miles on the car to confirm that all is well. The one thing I have noticed is that the engine - according to the temperature gauge appears to be running hotter. Since the only thing I have done is remove the head and the radiator but without changing anything that could affect the running temperature, I suspect that I have an airlock somewhere in the system. Is there any way to confirm this and more importantly get rid of it? Over the last couple of weeks I have covered
  3. So always hearing about electric fans and how they save 100hp blah blah. Well I was looking for an electric water pump for my Turbo powered F3 car as when she stops in hot weather after a burn the fans start going. But of course the water isnt circulating so I thought why not have an electric water pump to circulate the water one engine is off but fans are still going. Well after reading up about Hp saved and stuff I was wondering, has anyone ever fitted an electric water pump in their TR ? Why not? many want electric fans and an electric pump is the same principle, Hp saved and faster w
  4. I want to temporarily measure the coolant temperature accurately. My TR4A <seems> to run a bit hot, but I don't know if its just the gauge or something worse. So I am looking for a bit of kit that I can temporarily install to check the temperature against what the gauge is saying. Then can see if there is actually an issue. Any ideas? Ian.
  5. Good Morning Sages Getting air to the carbs? I believe I have a 4 engine with HS6’s and of course those mahoosive 'neighbour annoying' extractors sitting right underneath. I have the standard cardboard air cowl, so water temps fine and cool when poodling, but it gets very wheezy when hot. I don’t want to wrap/coat as the exhaust as it will be replaced in the nearish future. How are you venting air to the carbs (if you are)? I assume some sort of flanged intake then a hose directing air ? Recommendations, materials? Dia of hose to be effective? Demon weeks have these ? http:
  6. DaveN

    Radiator

    CR chassis. New Radiator bottom hose is tight up against the cross member. Now the bottom hose boss/pipe on the Radiator does have a slight bend as is correct but should it also be bent downwards allowing the hose to sweep up and thus clear the chassis? Its almost as if the rad brackets should be slightly higher (therefore allowing the rad to sit lower). The downside to this would mean the two stays would have to be altered otherwise due to triangulation the rad would not be vertical! Another minor point theres no way in its current configuration would the rubber isolation washers fit.! T
  7. Willie

    Brrrrrrrrr

    Hi Everyone. A seasonal conundrum - I can't get any heat out of the heater!! Scuttle vent lid OPEN, heater core backflushed and found to have a healthy water flow. New heater control valve fitted. Both heater hoses hot during test and heater box also pleasantly warm to the touch. Blower fan aking a blower noise so assumed to be working [negative discharge on voltmeter also suggesting it is running]. I assume the airduct control cable is pushed in fully to divert all airflow to the screen vent outlets? Only thing missing appears to be hot air!! HELP!! Best wishes Willie
  8. Sorry - SOLD I have one of the famous Everco 74648 heater valves available (new) if anyone wants one, brought over from the States by a friend as I have bought one to fit to my TR6 and replace the standard part. Will sell at cost (£22.34) plus P&P or bring up to Malvern - will be there Sat & Sun. Cheers Steve
  9. A company I came across several years ago, looking for component to make up a fuel pressure testing rig, and have subsequently used for odd requirements. They seem to have a vast selection of products, and by phone were knowledgeable and more than helpful . . . . . also have an ebay shop https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/ http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Venair-Silicone-Hose-World/Terms-and-Policys.html Usual disclaimers, I don't know the folks there, simply found them useful ! Cheers Alec
  10. I am gradually working through the usual list of suspects in order to keep the 3A running at an acceptable temperature. Yesterday I noticed that the temp gauge was registering a little north of 30 degrees. This on a car that has not moved for 3 weeks and was sitting in a cool garage. Just wondered if this is the normal resting position of the needle or whether this might be indicative of an over-reading gauge. If the latter, it would explain a couple of things. Anyone any knowledge? As a supplemental, what are the pair of dots either side of the 85 degree line? Never noticed t
  11. The subject of radiators comes up from time to time - cost of rebuilding etc. I've just had the Super Snipe rad rebuilt by Raysons of Yeovil, a firm I've used occasionally for the past 30 years. The original 1958 rad, now somewhat the worse for anno domini, I wished to preserve as much as possible rather than replace. Not that replacements exist for cars as rare as an S1 Super Snipe . . . . . The old Humber has a big radiator, 27" x 19" x 2½" . . . . . a lot bigger than TR, for example. Yank Tank size as Raysons put it.This one required a recore, and some judicious repair to the brass
  12. Hello all... Let's try to keep this to ourselves (I don't want those Peerless guys getting wind of this) I've started restoring a 1960 3A I know, SPLITTER! I'm just asking in case there's a good resource/cheat sheet of 'sensible/practical modifications' for people doing a complete nut and bolt rebuild. Does anything want strengthening/beefing up/adding/cutting off (I'm talking about the car) etc on either the body/chassis ? Are there any well known weaknesses or failings (I'm talking about the TR...) that can be improved upon without spoiling the originality (noticeably)
  13. Hi Anyone used these £145 alloy rads on ebay ? LEN
  14. Hi, I am thinking that i might like to have an air-conditioning kit fitted to my UK spec right hand drive, petrol injected TR6 which is a 1974 CR model. Does anyone have any experience with this and who is the best outfit to have this done by?
  15. Hi All, just trying to replace the wide fanbelt on my 1960 3a but struggling with the narrow gaps it has to pass through. 1. The aftermarket steering rack is v. close to the crankshaft pulley securing bolts, but I can loosen the rack mounts to get clearance there. 2. The gap between the cross brace and the crankshaft pulley is also less than the width of the belt, but I see Mr. Haynes recommends unbolting the brace to get the belt in/out. 3. Now I see the gap between the fan bolts and the radiator is also less than the fan belt width Mr. Haynes makes no mention of removing th
  16. Been doing a bit of research into a new radiator for BUO's rebuild. I must admit I knew there were to types the pre CP75000 and the post but I thought it was just a repositioning of the of the bottom outlet (although why I've no idea) but when Looking at alloy rads ( que some running for crucifix and holy water) sold by Moss the pre 7500 rads have the rad cap on the top of the rad wheras the post 7500 rads have the cap inset into the top of the rad, any ideas why ? Racestorations appear to only sell the post 75000 type http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/cooling-
  17. Olde Starts on the Button Olde Purrs Like a Kitten Olde Roars Like a Lion Olde Great Oil Pressure Olde No Smoke (honest) Olde no Oil Leaks Olde Good Water Temps Olde Bombed it Round the M25 Olde BMW Basher Olde Boomin Northern Soul on the Stereo Olde (lights even works in the dark!) Olde Maybe I Should Change my Mind? Olde Worth At Least £1/2m Well done gents. Another victory to strike up for 'TR Forum Restorations Ltd - No Challenge Is Too Hard'
  18. I have a CR car immigrated from the UK where it underwent an amateur (but looks, I think, relatively sound) restoration in the late 90s. Part of this was the installation of a Kenlowe fan. The switch/light for it under the dash was swathed in electrical tape which I thought was to keep the smoke in but after having a go at the dash recently and neglecting to redo it all, I found that it was actually to prevent getting burns from accidentally touching the contacts whilst it's running... I had always assumed that little box under the thermistor dial held a relay but given the amount of
  19. I was out in my TR3a yesterday and after returning it to the garage noticed that the electric fan was still operating. It turns out that the thermo switch has failed and is shorting to earth permanently. I have ordered a new switch from Moss but has anyone else had the same problem. Part of the fun of ordering the new switch was getting the correct temperature range. Up until it failed, I have been very happy with how the cooling system is operating, the engine warms up quickly and the fan only seems to come on in traffic. "Simples", I thought, buy another like the one I had. The on
  20. Having successfully installed the new speedo cable I have now moved to the next issue! I have recently had installed a new radiator - old one was seeping. At the same time a heater control tap was installed as the PO has plumbed it in to run constantly on. Even in the non-event of a British summer we seem to be having it was excessively warm! So new rad (4lb rad cap) new heater plumbing what could possibly go wrong! Well first the hose from the stainless steel pipe running along the engine block kept blowing off. (Seems to have been sorted by roughing up the pipe to give the hose mor
  21. No, please don't yawn! I know this has been discussed at length before - but we're all unique! (and yes I have reviewed previous posts first!) My issue is not with effective cooling when moving. With a small mouthed TR3 this is not an issue (or hasn't been yet!). However we are planning a continental tour next June and I don't want overheating in traffic to spoil it! The existing system is: no mechanical fan, narrow pulley conversion, a tweaked engine with SS extractor manifold which exudes heat and a new alloy radiator with an electric "sucker" fan which is manually operated (oh and
  22. Is this the right stuff ? No reference to Oats or barley
  23. Hello I am new to the forum having recently bought as TR3B. Since I got the car, I suspected the engine was running on a rather rich mixture as the car would start from cold without choke. So when I got a chance I pulled the plugs and found them to be black and soothy. I did not have time to do a full tune of the carbs, so I just gave the adjusting nuts both about half a turn to make the mixture leaner. Since then I have noticed two differences: 1. I need the choke for the first couple of minutes of driving (even though ambient temperatures here are 25-30 C here right now) and the engin
  24. HI all I have a overheating problem, I have tried flushing the system twice , but the strange thing is nothing ever comes out the drain plug on the engine only on the rad. If any body has any ideas would appreciate them. many thanks Steve.
  25. Hello fellow TR ers Being a very recent member of this forum I haven't read anywhere near all the posts concerning overheating, but there is a contributory factor not mentioned in the last two, but it is alluded to in a round about way by Bob in the last one. Bob said he removed his badges and spotlights. I gleaned the following snippet from an American lady who has a bit of a blog on her TR-ing adventures. I can't remember her name and have not been able to find her web page again, but credit goes to her. She points out that the holes in reproduction front grills are significantly sma
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