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  1. Hi all, Lost the clutch. Pedal to the floor and surprise surprise no fluid in the master cylinder. Car hasn’t been driven over the winter save for a couple of mile blast a couple of weeks ago. There is no evidence of fluid leak on garage floor but that aside inspection of the slave cylinder shows a lot of wear marks on the piston, even if the seal doesn’t look bad. Anyway decided that a new slave is in order, but the one removed has County S02 10 or SO2 10 and 7/8” on outer casting surface. I see that all the usual suspects have the standard 1” slave available with the exception of Revin
  2. Hi I dont use the forum very much, so please bear with me...... My '4 is in very poor shape but I'd like to get it mobile in order to move it under its own steam. Everything was working until a couple of years ago and It has sat awaiting my time, slowly deteriorating. The clutch hydraulics gave out around last December when I got in it to unstick the clutch. Clutch was ok previously. Yesterday I had a go at it, and, owing to lack of brake fuild, though I'd try to fill the clutch master with shock oil. Its quite light & pours easily. To my surprise I got a good pedal after a few
  3. Hi all Kind of a bit puzzled with a clutch hyrdraulics problem probably as I’ve never done one before. Please bear in mind all of the components are new until we get to the clutch cross shaft arm with the 3 holes. Now I’m not sure whether the master cylinder is 0.7 or 0.75 as the only thing on the side other than TRW is AM-03. So the problem is that when the clutch pedal is depressed the push rod does push out but just does not return to its original position when the pedal is released. Now this happens whether the slave pushrod is connected to the cross shaft arm or n
  4. Hi guys, Currently helping my dad out with his TR3 and we’re trying to get the slave cylinder attached back to the clutch lever however there is a gap of probably about 1 inch between the parts that need to go together (see attached photo). Has anyone ever had this problem before and if so, any ideas on what could have gone wrong/needs to be done? The holding down plate that the slave cylinder fits in is definitely on the correct side (checked with manual) so we’re struggling to come up with the reason why this is happening?! Any help is appreciated J
  5. Today took out the car for a New Year's drive, but after an hour had to return: it became increasingly difficult to change gears, and on the return even impossible to get into second, or at stand still into first gear without the motor stalling or grinding noises from the gearbox. The clutch pedal feels completely soft, and increasingly had to push the pedal deeper and deeper until no uncoupling even occured. Back home put the car on the bridge and pictures added below: the connection between the hydraulics of the clutch and the gearbox clutch lever seems broken; the rod is loose inside t
  6. Something strange going on and I cant quite fathom it. Doing a fairly long Rally in a months time, so just going round and fettling as necessary. Clutch free play was on the list as the pickup point seemed to have risen.... Free play adjusted, to 0.079" and then after a quick drive I have an inch of very soft pedal at the top of the stroke? Checked the movement of the actuating arm was 5/8" and all good. Does not appear to be a broken pin in the cross shaft. Bleed the system with difficulty, yes the bleed nipple is at the top of the S/C. Nice firm pedal at 09.30 yesterday morning. Just
  7. I have two old and used Borg and Beck clutch driven plates in my garage. Both still have a lot of 'meat' left on them. One is from a TR3a, the other from a TR4. Neither is any use to me as I now have a saloon O/D box complete with the 1" input shaft as opposed to the 1 1/4" TR one. Is anyone interested in having them (for the cost of P&P) before they go to the skip? Rgds Ian
  8. Morning. With the engine running and car stationary there is a grumbling from the gearbox/clutch. Push the clutch in and the noise stops. Release the clutch and it starts again. I can describe the noise as sounding like rotating metal against metal with a light touch. Any thoughts? Best. Paul.
  9. After lavishing money, time and effort on my 1972 TR6 this year in a number of areas. Famously eliminating my age old fuel smell problem and more significantly cash spent on my 132k miles engine to breathe new life into it. As well the gear box being extracted for primarily a noisy first gear, the lay shaft bearing had landed up in the overdrive with no additional damage thank goodness. All back together with a new clutch to suit. Whilst fettling with the cars induction over the past week or so to get things just right, I noticed the clutch master cylinder had dropped to almost empty, however
  10. TR PARTS FOR DISPOSAL In preparing for our imminent move from Aldbury to Thame, I have discovered the following: 1) Anti-Roll Bar, diameter 5/8” (15.5mm), distance between eyes 33.75” (86mm), some parts of fittings remain. GONE 2) Anti-Roll Bar, diameter 5/8” (15.5mm), distance between eyes 33.75” (86mm), slight bend, no fittings. GONE 3) Propeller shaft #1 (from TR2/3/4).GONE 4) Propeller shaft #2 (from TR2/3/4).GONE 5) TR4 flywheel with ring gear. Weighs 21 lb (9.5kg) – about 10 lb less than standard. Lightened by machining just over ½” (1.35mm) depth and 13
  11. Hi All, I am hoping someone will pick this request up and confirm a point of confusion before my TR4 gets the gearbox overhaul completed. WHICH WAY ROUND DOES THE CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING GO? Does the larger diameter flat face point outwards from the bellhousing as the original TR4 Workshop Manual illustrates? That is how the bearing is set currently, but in the next couple of hours we will either commit to that or have to open the assembly up and swap it round. I hope this reaches an authority on the subject in time!! Best wishes Willie
  12. I have a TR3a with a saloon gearbox and overdrive and am using a T2000 clutch which is only 8.5" diameter. Does anyone know if there is a 9" diameter clutch available that will fit the 1" diameter /10 no. splines of the Triumph saloon gearbox? As far as I can determine form the internet, most 9 inch clutches with 10 splines have a 1 1/8" diameter centre. Rgds Ian
  13. I've renewed everything on my brake and clutch systems. New discs, calipers, copper brake pipes and flexible s/s pipes. Which brake fluid should I use? When I fitted 'Coopercraft' four cylinder front brake calipers to my 1965 'E'-type Jaguar I was instructed NOT to use Silicon brake fluid ~ Why??? Tom.
  14. Just a couple of contacts which might prove useful for others. Although these are a couple of years old now I think the companies are still going. I had two LT77 gearboxes rebuilt at Hardy Engineering in Leatherhead. The proprietor is clearly an enthusiast and cares about his customers and their needs. He has a mechanic who specialises in the LT77 and seems quite knowledgeable himself. One box was well chewed but the other needed only a light fettling. Both together cost me about £800 if I remember correctly. The internal oil pump mechanisms get replaced with brass components as a matt
  15. Hi All When I acquired by CR series TR6 it was in boxes. I have slowly started to sort out what I have and what I don't. There was no clutch at all. I have just purchased a second hand Laycock clutch cover from my local Vintage car club. Can anyone advise if a Borg and Beck clutch plate can be used as I don't have one that can be sent away for exchange. The clutch plate would be a 8.5x 10 x1.25 What are the differences between the two - would I be able to find a suitable aftermarket one as no one seems to have even a second hand one. Also a bit more difficult being on the other sid
  16. Just to add to the list of clutch woes that sometimes afflict us, here's a couple more. Exhibit 1 is the clutch cover out of my daily driver Hurricane. This suddenly only gave me half a clutch one day. It felt just like the cross-shaft pin had broken, except it's a Spitfire 1300 which doesn't have a cross-shaft. If you look closely, you can see that the diaphragm spring has sheared. So having fixed that, I got back to putting the TR back together. When I took the engine out, the clutch was fine so didn't really look too closely. Now when I come to replace it I see that the clutch plate is b
  17. Hi All With a lot of help from a fellow club member,we removed the gearbox from my 1971 Tr 6 today. The reason for removing the box was because the drive started slipping, however it wasn't clear if it was the clutch or the overdrive (A Type). Either way the box had to come out. The clutch was fitted on 27th of April 1993 and has covered approx 95,000 miles. I acquired the car 4 years later and removed the engine and gearbox to replace the ring gear on the flywheel. I decided at the time to leave the clutch and only replaced the fork pin with a new hardened one. This decision has been vin
  18. At the week end I was able to borrow a 4 post lift. It has been puzzling me for many years that I have trouble with the slave cylinder. The ST manual shows the cylinder mounted on the rear side of the bracket and the lowest hole used for the connection. The Moss parts book says use the middle hole. I know some of the contributors to the parts book and they do not get things wrong. If I use the middle hole the rod is at an angle and wears out the slave on one side only, and then it leaks. I noticed in the parts book that there were two numbers for the bracket. 1 x Lockheed and 1 x
  19. This summer, I had the gearbox fully overhauled and a new clutch plate. I am now able to select first and reverse with no grinding noise. The change is not as smooth as i had hoped. I once drove TS2 and the gear change was very smooth. I want mine to be the same. I have a new cross shaft , new thrust bearing and new bearing carrier, and new cover that I had in store for 20 years. It is still chunky changing gear and we have covered only 300 miles. What parts control the smooth change that i am looking for? I have extended the slave pushrod to make it longer in case the clutch was n
  20. Happy new year all.. Few weeks ago i replaced my clutch slave cylinder and flexi pipe, then bought the gunson kit.. Noticed when bleeding the copper pipe wasnt sealing so replaced that..then put new rubbers in clutch master cylinder.. Bleed with gunson kit using 10psi from spare tyre, and got some air out system but thats it.. And there isnt even a bit of clutch pedal.. Any ideas? Thanks in advanced grant.
  21. I can not select reverse without crashing the gearbox on my 3A I have spoken to the gearbox specialist in the back cover of TRaction. He says that it must be the clutch. After all my troubles with the slave cylinder over the summer I am sure that the push rod is correctly adjusted. My gear knob will not lift up when I select reverse. Could this be the problem? Why does it have to lift anyway? The release bearing is making a low grumble and will be replaced this winter. Any advice welcome. Thanks, Richard & H.
  22. Gents I have a CSC (minus seriously knackered seals) available, should anyone want to reseal it. It is in reasonable nick, I think . . . . . I have just fitted a replacement (easier than doing the reseal) Going for the cost of postage, which is about four quid I think. If you want to collect it from Chelmsford, that's fine.
  23. I have been having a lot of clutch problems. Today I tried to fit a new flexible hose. It was a sunny afternoon and there was some spare time. So I carefully checked it against the existing. There is an adaptor at each end of the stainless pipe. These adaptors are not identical. There is one long one and one short. If you connect the short end to the slave cylinder it does not reach far enough inside to contact the seat inside. This is wher my existing leak is coming from. If you use the long end it tightens down satisfactorily. However the short end is not long enough to fit through the b
  24. I am planning to fit the new clutch to my 3A. This will mean the gearbox out and if the rear seal on the crankshaft is leaking the sump will have to come off. How can I support the rear of the engine so that the work can be done standing up using a 4 post lift. There is a built in lifting eye at the front but nothing at the back. Thanks Richard & H.
  25. Has anyone got advice on converting a TR3A spring clutch to TR4 diaphragm. I know the flywheel and extension will need machining. Is it worth it in terms of a lighter and more reliable clutch operation?
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