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Found 122 results

  1. All My brake lights stopped working this weekend. The fuse is good. Bulbs are good Tail lights work I have checked all the earth (body) connections I can find in the boot and cleaned / vaselined I have the brake light switch out and checked with a test light; it is working However, the switch looks old and feels fragile so I plan to replace it. I plan to buy Lucas or Intermotor, unless the forum suggests otherwise. . . . . suggestions? But . . . where else can I look for a resolution to the 'no brake lights' problem All advice gratefully received
  2. Good afternoon all Due in part to the previous Mr Bodger I have decided to replace all the brake pipes, basically to tidy them up and clip them properly I have bought new Kunifer piping manufactured to BS EN12249 rated IIRC to 3150 psi. (I will test this at work....just because!). However the end fittings! There are brass and what looks like plated steel available. What is the consensus on the best to use? And, as mine is a late model 6 I need metric end fittings for the calipers but what about the rest of the system? Cheers Dave
  3. The rear lights are now working - new base plate and bulbs to remedy the damage caused by the naff LED's. Q1 - to test the units when not fixed on the car I obviously needed to earth the socket - they weren't earthed before, should they be - the is a spare bullt on the plate which appears to be for an earth? The PO seemed to have relied on the screws through the base plate into the spire nuts for earthing ?? Q2 - still no brake light, even when the pedal is pressed hard, so going to replace the hydraulic switch. Can someone with my level of (in)competence replace it without having to bleed the brakes - is it a case of quick off, thumb over hole and quick on again ? The switch I have ordered is 21B291 (chassis No. 26000#) Moss doesn't seem to offer tapped or parallel options ? Also, I have read on other posts the suggestion of installing a copper washer - is there a specific type - again no suggestion in the boook. PS - Q3 - where will I find the switch on the car !
  4. Hi all, having just finished fitting a new rear brake pipe (dont ask) I have been attempting to bleed the brakes. This has never been easy on this car and I have always had more travel than I would like however this time I resorted to the eazybleed as the manual method did nothing. So I now have brakes but still with excessive travel so I currently have I piece of wood holding the pedal down as per Stuarts suggestion on an old post with the rear adjusters tightened right up. We will see if play is less tomorrow. My question is, the pedal moves the pushrod about 5-8mm before it touches the piston so can a stop be put behind the pedal shank to eliminate the dead zone or could an adjustable pushrod be used as I have on the clutch master cylinder. The car has an aftermarket Servo fitted. Thanks in advance. Chris
  5. I have posted before about a faulty brake master cylinder I fitted to my car,I have had it replaced with one that had been tested before dispatch and now this one has failed as well. This time while driving the car, Feed back before informed me that there have been problems going back over 2 years ago from a company TRW, this is the make I had fitted on both occasions, I have now fitted a non branded make as I have no other choices left. It was lucky this time I was able to stop with the hand brake, Regards Duncan
  6. HI Got a surprise advisory on brake balance my MOT. The rear off side is down on foot pedal to just acceptable, but hand brake is 100% equal and works well. The cylinders, rubbers shoes etc were all replaced both sides 5? years ago. Everywhere is dry, no leaks or splits and everything slides about OK. The brake shoes are barely worn but there is there is some slight what I would call "cratering". You can see them in surface and just feel with a fingernail some pits or craters about 4-5 mm long 2-3 mm wide. Lots of black dust. The car stops in a straight line and there is no pedal sponginess or pump up. Handbrake being OK suggests some sort of hydraulics problem but what? Would appreciate suggested "to do" list Mike
  7. Hi All has anyone had a problem replacing the seals on their TR6 /5 brake master cylinder? I have just opened my new seal kit to find the instructions don't even relate to the master cylinder that I have and the poppet valve is not complete, Thus I will have to use old parts to complete the repair to my cylinder seals. Not ideal when playing with brakes. Interestingly I also have a brand new Master cylinder again from Moss that try as I might will not allow me to bleed brakes. is it just me or parts are not supplied to a set standard anymore?. Andy
  8. Numpty question coming up, maybe having a blonde moment! Would someone be kind enough to post a photo and/or description of how the brake dust shields are mounted to the front??? Seems I cant see the wood for the trees with this one/ Thanks in advance, Richard.
  9. After months of work my hydraulic seas have given up on the clutch. I went to Moss and bought the repair pack. I had to buy two for the master cylinder as there are two sizes. One pack can be returned. The help I need is in identifying the cylinder on the car. The only number that I can read is 310 680 004 Girling. How can i find out the bore size. Thanks Richard& H
  10. Anyone interested in ganging up for this? There's for close to 10K £ at retail price http://www.ebay.com/itm/triumph-tr-4-bulk-parts-/172035202964?hash=item280e18df94:g:64EAAOSw14xWJocA&vxp=mtr Edit: Had a phone call with the seller to inquire about specific parts i.e. grille and hardtop. He just sent me the pics below he had at hand....Enough for me to clic the "buy" button. Now the boring logisitic will start, everything must be out by the end of February. Will get and post more pictures of the treasure chest later on More pics....
  11. Hello All, I've discovered I have a faulty brake servo check valve (non-return valve). The servo is an aftermarket TRW item supplied via TR Shop. I've contacted TR Shop & TRW requesting a replacement but neither can help, it seems they can only supply the valve with the servo, £100+ for a check valve and spare servo that I don't need, NO THANKS! The original valve doesn't fit the TRW servo, it's diameter is to large. Surely there must be someone supplying replacement valves, or has any forumites came across this already and found an alternative solution? Extremely grateful for any help. Regards, Richard.
  12. Hello All, Would someone be kind enough to post a clear photo of the correct routing of brake pipes? I particularly need to know the correct path they take from the bulkhead down to where they meet their adjoining sections at the chassis. Thanks in advance, Richard.
  13. I ordered a set of brass brake bleeding nipples for my 3A from Automec. They arrived this morning in double quick time. Excellent service! Tom.
  14. The casting on the passenger trailing arm that holds the flexible brake pipe is badly corroded. The brake pipe is fitted and fairly secure but I think with movement will come loose. I have tried washers either side which worked well but was unable to fit copper brake pipe due to taking up to much thread. Anyone overcome this problem ? Thanks Mark.
  15. Hello wise forum friends.. I have a fluid leak on my TR6 calipers so its obviously re-build time. I'm lucky enough to have a car hoist and good workshop, so will doing this myself. I've seen the various posts about quality issues with a few of the brake spares components (mainly master cylinders, seal kits, etc) So my main question is who would people recommend I source good rebuild kits from please? I've searched the forum, and also reviewed the buckeye triumphs brake caliper site. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Front/Front.htm Mine is a '69 car, so I expect would have the early (poor) rubber dust caps on and 16P imperial calipers (to be confirmed as perhaps they are not the original calipers now!). From buckeye it seems the only change to upgrade to the later better dust caps that clip to both the caliper and the piston is to renew the pistons with the wider dust seal groove type. Can anyone please confirm if that is correct? Is the extra cost to upgrade to stainless steel pistons worth it? given mileage is only 2000 a year, and summer only driving (majority nice and dry) Any other tips or points noted from previous experience gratefully received. On a related note I have an annoying rattle traced to the brake servo. Its intermittent and only occurs at idle (if you crimp the vacuum line when it is happening then it stops.) The servo appears to work OK. I see there's a non return valve on the pipe connection to the servo. Is that the likely culprit or could it be internals of the servo? (at £35+ for replacement non return valve I'd like to know before committing!) I see from photo records that the PO rebuilt the servo himself back in 2008. so what the probability that an error by him could have created the vacuum related rattle? Cheers in advance, James.
  16. I'd appreciate some advice on my rear brakes. A few weeks ago I took the TR6 out, only to find it would it would hardly go. It turned out that the right rear brake had stuck on. I took the drum off, made sure everything inside was OK and moving, put it back together, and all was well. Today, the same thing happened. So the MOT is postponed. Is there something I should lubricate in the brake area to stop this happening - or could it be a more complicated thing to fix? I am thinking it could be the hydraulic cylinder that needs replacing. Any advice would be welcome! Geoff
  17. Gents I plan to take a look at my brakes in the next month or do There's nothing amiss, as far as I am aware, just an annual clean and brush up. But . . . . . on the off chance I find that shoes or pads are needed, do I have to find "TR6" parts, or are there parts designated for other cars, that I can use that fit and are safe? Thanks
  18. All My brake lights now work very nicely, thank you. 1st thing I did was fit a new switch. Finally went for; http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/product/955/category/38 from AES The 1st switch they sent didn't want to work for me and, following a phone call Friday afternoon, a tested replacement was sent within hours and received at midday on Saturday. Excellent customer support If fitted and worked. I can highly reccommended the company and Ben in particular, who went out of his way to help. Following advice received (lots of it) from the forum, I have checked, cleaned and vaselined so many connections, I lost count . . . . . . . but, I have brake lights Note Is there a way I can bring this switch and supplier to the attention of the Parts Quality Initiative?
  19. Hello, I made an error and ordered standard caliper pistons instead of stainless-steel ones. The pistons I got are not chromed but have a matt dark grey finish that is supposed to be less prone to pitting. I could send the pistons back and change them for the SS, but twice shipping costs and VAT between Spain and UK is going to be expensive, I guess more than 50 pound. Are SS pistons so superior and recommendable? My TR3A is driven only very occasionally, and brakes components stay still during weeks. Thanks for your responses. Jesus
  20. Now I can drive my reassembled car I have noted that the brakes feel a bit dead and lack bite. I discovered that although the rear brakes were all new, shoes, springs, cylinder, pipework....after some use started leaking. I'm assuming as the car had been sitting round for 10 years that the seals had gone weak. Anyway they have been replaced with new cylinders and shoes etc. SO why are the brakes so weak, you need a real shove on them to get them to slow down and the do stop the car....but I have yet to get them to lock at any speed.....so whats up FYI New master cylinder new servo all new copper pipework stainless flexible hoses all round new discs new pads (just bought them) new shoes new rear wheel cylinders and shoes yes, silicone brake fluid....I couldnt face stripping my new paintwork(again) so.... new (but been on the car for 10 yrs) calipers, no they dont leak All of the above should mean good brakes but ....
  21. Found this and was impressed! Anyone know the car/driver/location? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DS0oS8tAdKE Regards Bill
  22. I note that one of our suppliers is listing the original metal sheathed hanbrake cable as NLA with a plastic sheathed item replacing it. Thinking it's probably time I replaced mine as handbrake operation has become increasingly variable and I'm pretty sure the original 40 year old cables are still in situ. Pros, Cons, recent experience anyone? Cheers, Jerry.
  23. I have two questions regarding the lockheed brake setup. My car is TS3445L, I need to know if the brake union was mounted to the vertical or horizontal tab on the axle housing. I also would like some more information on the brake levers that were changed at TS5442, P/N 106240, if anyone has a comparison picture of the new and old pieces that would be perfect.
  24. Never had this problem before,, but on the way back from Spa when braking at around 70 mph the steering wheel really started shaking. When braking at around 30 mph everything is fine. Any ideas before I start stripping things down and replacing bits by trial and error. Thanks in advance for your help. Nigel
  25. Hi Everyone Since the majority of my rebuild is complete I am desperate to finish off the few last jobs on my "snagging list" One of which is the handbrake lever. Although it work perfectly well, at some point in its life the lever has got bent. And constantly rubs against my leg. After much searching I am really struggling to find a replacement. New or used! Can anybody help or know of anywhere to try? Cheers Andy
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