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Found 128 results

  1. Nothing to do with me, but this isn't something I see very often . . . . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Girling-Restrictor-Valve-Discs-Triumph-TR3-TR4-TR4A-Old-Stock-but-untested/292392684380?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 Useful if you really want 100% originality ! Cheers, Alec
  2. As we all know the PI system requires manifold depression to operate correctly, and the manifold also has the brake servo claiming vacuum from it to boost the brakes. Has any one tried one of these electrically operated vacuum pumps instead of tapping from the manifold? Could kill two birds in one bush - boost brakes and not affect the manifold depression. https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/electric-vacuum-pump It says they are noisey in operation, so I would suggest mounting it in the boot with the Lucas fuel pump.....perhaps they would noise cancel (like my hearing aids) and there would be silence when driving. Cheers Peter W
  3. Hi all Would appreciate some help identifying a master cylinder - its a Girling with the numbers "875" and what looks like "64675575" cast on its side- photos below ( hopefully!) Any help much appreciated cheers Rich
  4. Is it correct to apply copper grease to the back of new brake pads? Tom.
  5. A couple of years ago I replaced my old but original brake reservoir because I was worried about it starting to leak. When I rebuilt the car I refurbished the original reservoir but it had quite a lot of rusting on the side that had reduced it to 'paper' thickness in places. The new repro reservoir started 'out of the blue' to leak a month or so ago just as we were about to move house and I have only just got around to removing it to fix the leak. I turns out that whereas the old reservoir was sealed by flat aluminium washers that were clamped firmly against the bottom of the can by the outlet unions, the new cans have an arrangement involving a nylon insert to the fitting attached to the bottom of the can and it was this insert/fitting that has given up the ghost. A quick search of the internet revealed that this is not an uncommon problem and on a Cobra Forum it said the solution was to use a product called Seal-All to seal the joint. Apparently it is resistant to everything including brake fluid. So I have some on order, hopefully to arrive tomorrow but in the meantime if you have a repro Girling reservoir be prepared for it to start to weep from the unions at the base. Another case of newer technology not always being better. Rgds Ian
  6. OK, you'd have thought I'd have learnt my lesson when it comes to fiddling with things I know little about, but I haven't and now find myself with a brake problem. As some might remember from a recent thread of mine, I was going to change my brake fluid, because what I had in there was at least 3 years old and quite probably a few years older. My brakes did seem to be working well and the fluid didn't look very dirty, but I thought better safe than sorry, so yesterday I set about the task. Never having done this before, I thought I'd read up on it, watch videos, buy the gear ... all I've which I did so I felt confident. Got the Easybleed kit, but couldn't get the proper cap (cheaply), so speaking with neighbor about it he said he had one of the vacuum type "bleeders" and said I could borrow it. So, watched the videos on it and seemed straightforward. Got to work, starting with bleed screw furthest from m/c. Fluid came out, but not in continuous flow, went to offside wheel, and the same happened. Yes, I'd removed old fluid from m/c first, but left some in their, and had then topped up with new. So, tried fronts (which are discs, drums at back), and they bled exactly how I thought they should. Fluid come out in continuous flow and went down in m/c, which I kept topping up. Soon fluid ran clear. All good then at fronts I think. OK, I thought, perhaps I'm not getting a good vacuum seal on the rears using this gadget, so I'll have a crack at the two person method. Pulled son away from video games, sat him in car, and told him to press brake as I loosened bleed screw and to lift when I tightened it. Again, some fluid came out in squirts, but not continuous flow and eventually it stopped coming altogether ... I'm now just getting air and brake pedal is spongy. We've done it over and over, but nothing. And yes, there's still fluid in the m/c ... that's just sitting there. Thankfully, one of our group members is going to pop over in the week and help, but I'd love to be able to fix it without putting anyone out. Have I made a simple error somewhere along the lines? Son said that when he pressed the brake pedal, that it went to the floor with the fronts, but only half way when I was working on the rears. Sometimes I just wish I could get a job right the first time
  7. Hello all... Let's try to keep this to ourselves (I don't want those Peerless guys getting wind of this) I've started restoring a 1960 3A I know, SPLITTER! I'm just asking in case there's a good resource/cheat sheet of 'sensible/practical modifications' for people doing a complete nut and bolt rebuild. Does anything want strengthening/beefing up/adding/cutting off (I'm talking about the car) etc on either the body/chassis ? Are there any well known weaknesses or failings (I'm talking about the TR...) that can be improved upon without spoiling the originality (noticeably)? (I'm certainly thinking about the rear crank rubber oil seal mod as no one would ever know except the people I get my driveway cleaning fluid from...) My chassis has already been powder coated (that was already done) and I intend to get the endoscope into the chassis tubes to preclude any nasty surprises later but now's the time to make any mods if any are necessary. I'm not aiming for bloody minded 100% originality to the absolute exclusion of every day practicality but I don't want to be adding ABS and IOBD2 either. The car will be used virtually every day in the same way I used my Warwicks/Peerlii in the past so it's got to be reliable and reasonably usable in modern conditions (i.e. crawling along at 2mph 50% of the time and having the suspension battered to death by 4" deep pot holes the other 50%. Once any modifications and repairs to the body/chassis are complete, my first job will be mounting the (etch primed) body on the chassis so that all the paint prep work can be carried out and panel gaps sorted. So for instance..... Where do I buy (or do I make) the best possible body mounting kit? I've seen talk on here of the old fabric impregnated rubbers being better, if this is true does anyone sell them? I'm sure I will have a million questions but I'll try to ask some of you in person as I look around all the 3A's at Malvern this year... Thank you for reading this far and if you have any comments that will be a great bonus! Jon
  8. All My brake lights stopped working this weekend. The fuse is good. Bulbs are good Tail lights work I have checked all the earth (body) connections I can find in the boot and cleaned / vaselined I have the brake light switch out and checked with a test light; it is working However, the switch looks old and feels fragile so I plan to replace it. I plan to buy Lucas or Intermotor, unless the forum suggests otherwise. . . . . suggestions? But . . . where else can I look for a resolution to the 'no brake lights' problem All advice gratefully received
  9. Good afternoon all Due in part to the previous Mr Bodger I have decided to replace all the brake pipes, basically to tidy them up and clip them properly I have bought new Kunifer piping manufactured to BS EN12249 rated IIRC to 3150 psi. (I will test this at work....just because!). However the end fittings! There are brass and what looks like plated steel available. What is the consensus on the best to use? And, as mine is a late model 6 I need metric end fittings for the calipers but what about the rest of the system? Cheers Dave
  10. The rear lights are now working - new base plate and bulbs to remedy the damage caused by the naff LED's. Q1 - to test the units when not fixed on the car I obviously needed to earth the socket - they weren't earthed before, should they be - the is a spare bullt on the plate which appears to be for an earth? The PO seemed to have relied on the screws through the base plate into the spire nuts for earthing ?? Q2 - still no brake light, even when the pedal is pressed hard, so going to replace the hydraulic switch. Can someone with my level of (in)competence replace it without having to bleed the brakes - is it a case of quick off, thumb over hole and quick on again ? The switch I have ordered is 21B291 (chassis No. 26000#) Moss doesn't seem to offer tapped or parallel options ? Also, I have read on other posts the suggestion of installing a copper washer - is there a specific type - again no suggestion in the boook. PS - Q3 - where will I find the switch on the car !
  11. Hi all, having just finished fitting a new rear brake pipe (dont ask) I have been attempting to bleed the brakes. This has never been easy on this car and I have always had more travel than I would like however this time I resorted to the eazybleed as the manual method did nothing. So I now have brakes but still with excessive travel so I currently have I piece of wood holding the pedal down as per Stuarts suggestion on an old post with the rear adjusters tightened right up. We will see if play is less tomorrow. My question is, the pedal moves the pushrod about 5-8mm before it touches the piston so can a stop be put behind the pedal shank to eliminate the dead zone or could an adjustable pushrod be used as I have on the clutch master cylinder. The car has an aftermarket Servo fitted. Thanks in advance. Chris
  12. HI Got a surprise advisory on brake balance my MOT. The rear off side is down on foot pedal to just acceptable, but hand brake is 100% equal and works well. The cylinders, rubbers shoes etc were all replaced both sides 5? years ago. Everywhere is dry, no leaks or splits and everything slides about OK. The brake shoes are barely worn but there is there is some slight what I would call "cratering". You can see them in surface and just feel with a fingernail some pits or craters about 4-5 mm long 2-3 mm wide. Lots of black dust. The car stops in a straight line and there is no pedal sponginess or pump up. Handbrake being OK suggests some sort of hydraulics problem but what? Would appreciate suggested "to do" list Mike
  13. Hi All has anyone had a problem replacing the seals on their TR6 /5 brake master cylinder? I have just opened my new seal kit to find the instructions don't even relate to the master cylinder that I have and the poppet valve is not complete, Thus I will have to use old parts to complete the repair to my cylinder seals. Not ideal when playing with brakes. Interestingly I also have a brand new Master cylinder again from Moss that try as I might will not allow me to bleed brakes. is it just me or parts are not supplied to a set standard anymore?. Andy
  14. Numpty question coming up, maybe having a blonde moment! Would someone be kind enough to post a photo and/or description of how the brake dust shields are mounted to the front??? Seems I cant see the wood for the trees with this one/ Thanks in advance, Richard.
  15. After months of work my hydraulic seas have given up on the clutch. I went to Moss and bought the repair pack. I had to buy two for the master cylinder as there are two sizes. One pack can be returned. The help I need is in identifying the cylinder on the car. The only number that I can read is 310 680 004 Girling. How can i find out the bore size. Thanks Richard& H
  16. Anyone interested in ganging up for this? There's for close to 10K £ at retail price http://www.ebay.com/itm/triumph-tr-4-bulk-parts-/172035202964?hash=item280e18df94:g:64EAAOSw14xWJocA&vxp=mtr Edit: Had a phone call with the seller to inquire about specific parts i.e. grille and hardtop. He just sent me the pics below he had at hand....Enough for me to clic the "buy" button. Now the boring logisitic will start, everything must be out by the end of February. Will get and post more pictures of the treasure chest later on More pics....
  17. Hello All, I've discovered I have a faulty brake servo check valve (non-return valve). The servo is an aftermarket TRW item supplied via TR Shop. I've contacted TR Shop & TRW requesting a replacement but neither can help, it seems they can only supply the valve with the servo, £100+ for a check valve and spare servo that I don't need, NO THANKS! The original valve doesn't fit the TRW servo, it's diameter is to large. Surely there must be someone supplying replacement valves, or has any forumites came across this already and found an alternative solution? Extremely grateful for any help. Regards, Richard.
  18. Hello All, Would someone be kind enough to post a clear photo of the correct routing of brake pipes? I particularly need to know the correct path they take from the bulkhead down to where they meet their adjoining sections at the chassis. Thanks in advance, Richard.
  19. I ordered a set of brass brake bleeding nipples for my 3A from Automec. They arrived this morning in double quick time. Excellent service! Tom.
  20. The casting on the passenger trailing arm that holds the flexible brake pipe is badly corroded. The brake pipe is fitted and fairly secure but I think with movement will come loose. I have tried washers either side which worked well but was unable to fit copper brake pipe due to taking up to much thread. Anyone overcome this problem ? Thanks Mark.
  21. Hello wise forum friends.. I have a fluid leak on my TR6 calipers so its obviously re-build time. I'm lucky enough to have a car hoist and good workshop, so will doing this myself. I've seen the various posts about quality issues with a few of the brake spares components (mainly master cylinders, seal kits, etc) So my main question is who would people recommend I source good rebuild kits from please? I've searched the forum, and also reviewed the buckeye triumphs brake caliper site. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Front/Front.htm Mine is a '69 car, so I expect would have the early (poor) rubber dust caps on and 16P imperial calipers (to be confirmed as perhaps they are not the original calipers now!). From buckeye it seems the only change to upgrade to the later better dust caps that clip to both the caliper and the piston is to renew the pistons with the wider dust seal groove type. Can anyone please confirm if that is correct? Is the extra cost to upgrade to stainless steel pistons worth it? given mileage is only 2000 a year, and summer only driving (majority nice and dry) Any other tips or points noted from previous experience gratefully received. On a related note I have an annoying rattle traced to the brake servo. Its intermittent and only occurs at idle (if you crimp the vacuum line when it is happening then it stops.) The servo appears to work OK. I see there's a non return valve on the pipe connection to the servo. Is that the likely culprit or could it be internals of the servo? (at £35+ for replacement non return valve I'd like to know before committing!) I see from photo records that the PO rebuilt the servo himself back in 2008. so what the probability that an error by him could have created the vacuum related rattle? Cheers in advance, James.
  22. I'd appreciate some advice on my rear brakes. A few weeks ago I took the TR6 out, only to find it would it would hardly go. It turned out that the right rear brake had stuck on. I took the drum off, made sure everything inside was OK and moving, put it back together, and all was well. Today, the same thing happened. So the MOT is postponed. Is there something I should lubricate in the brake area to stop this happening - or could it be a more complicated thing to fix? I am thinking it could be the hydraulic cylinder that needs replacing. Any advice would be welcome! Geoff
  23. Gents I plan to take a look at my brakes in the next month or do There's nothing amiss, as far as I am aware, just an annual clean and brush up. But . . . . . on the off chance I find that shoes or pads are needed, do I have to find "TR6" parts, or are there parts designated for other cars, that I can use that fit and are safe? Thanks
  24. All My brake lights now work very nicely, thank you. 1st thing I did was fit a new switch. Finally went for; http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/product/955/category/38 from AES The 1st switch they sent didn't want to work for me and, following a phone call Friday afternoon, a tested replacement was sent within hours and received at midday on Saturday. Excellent customer support If fitted and worked. I can highly reccommended the company and Ben in particular, who went out of his way to help. Following advice received (lots of it) from the forum, I have checked, cleaned and vaselined so many connections, I lost count . . . . . . . but, I have brake lights Note Is there a way I can bring this switch and supplier to the attention of the Parts Quality Initiative?
  25. Hello, I made an error and ordered standard caliper pistons instead of stainless-steel ones. The pistons I got are not chromed but have a matt dark grey finish that is supposed to be less prone to pitting. I could send the pistons back and change them for the SS, but twice shipping costs and VAT between Spain and UK is going to be expensive, I guess more than 50 pound. Are SS pistons so superior and recommendable? My TR3A is driven only very occasionally, and brakes components stay still during weeks. Thanks for your responses. Jesus
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