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Found 500 results

  1. Should the gap on top of the door be equal along its length, both my doors widen nearer the front. Is this what happens after years of slamming doors?
  2. I have two sets of mounting points on both a posts ,I assume I should only have one switch either side, looking through the parts book only one shows. If only one is needed which set of holes should I weld up. Mark.
  3. Hi Folks, looking for a definative answer and if at all possible a photo of the original TR6 seat belt fitting. The stalk a the floor end, pal in the group, his seems to come off at right angles to the bolt, thats through the floor. All looks a bit odd to me, or is this correct? John.
  4. Mark69

    Chrome

    Recently had a few bits zinc plated and took my door handles to have chromed, they said it wasn't possible for them to do these due to being white metal. Am I better to find somebody who can or buy new ones? Any recommendations gladly accepted. Mark
  5. Had a couple of quotes to rechrome door handles, staggered at cost. Replacement door handles less than half price. Wondered if any of you have fitted these and your thoughts on quality. Thanks Mark.
  6. On the rear floor panel ,just behind the chassis bridge fixing holes, there are two indents one either side. On my panel these have been repaired ( not very well). I want to repair and wondered if they are their for any particular reason, I can't think why. Can I replace with flat metal ?. Mark
  7. Hello, I am in the process of a body-off restauration of my 1970 CP TR6, and the chassis is not too bad overall (it has all fatigue cracks in the known places and some minor corrosion here and there, but it is severely corroded at the T-shirt area, bottom side only. The chassis is gritblasted, and the rotten sections are removed (see 1st picture). I measured the chassis and compared it with the chassis dimensions table from the Brown Bible; it is remarkable how staight a chassis can be after 40 years, all dimensions are within +/1-3 mm, so I assume acceptable. During welding (small sections, working cross-pattern), I noticed the chassis was deflecting from the accumulative weld shrink, so I stopped welding, and with hammering out the welds (peening), I was able to correct some of it. I have now supported the chassis below the repair area (see 2nd picture), and with some nylon straps I can pre-stress the chassis and I was able to correct the remaining deflection rather easily, going in the plastic range, so the chassis is straight again. Now my question: Since the upper side will not be welded (it is not corroded) the chassis will deflect, probably to unacceptable levels if I don't control the weld shrink, so I want to pre-stress the chassis. Does anyone know how much is needed? I realize the amount of weld shrinkage is depending on weld speed, sequence, weld size etc, so a fixed number cannot be given. Thanks for your help, Waldi
  8. Anyone interested in ganging up for this? There's for close to 10K £ at retail price http://www.ebay.com/itm/triumph-tr-4-bulk-parts-/172035202964?hash=item280e18df94:g:64EAAOSw14xWJocA&vxp=mtr Edit: Had a phone call with the seller to inquire about specific parts i.e. grille and hardtop. He just sent me the pics below he had at hand....Enough for me to clic the "buy" button. Now the boring logisitic will start, everything must be out by the end of February. Will get and post more pictures of the treasure chest later on More pics....
  9. The frame for my soft top appears too wide for the car. I can force the sides in to screw in the frame but then the rest of the frame will not fold down properly as the rest of the hinges snags on each other.. With the aid of a screw driver I can force the hinges past each other but all of this has damaged the trim. Any suggestions Alan
  10. I,ve raised the drivers window in such a way that it is stuck fast.Please help with a quick solution.
  11. Hello fellow TR6ers. The drivers' door on Troy (my 1970 TR6pi) is starting to sag, leading me to believe that hinge replacement will be needed soon. My question is, can the hinges be replaced one at a time,(with the door supported on axle stands), or am I going to have to bite the bullet, and remove the door- as instructed in the 'Brown Bible'? Many thanks, Paul.
  12. Hi All, I am in the process of fitting a new rear inner wing and I have had to replace the back corner of my deck panel which I am in the process of doing. I need to know if I should seam weld the edges highlighted in the photo. These edges did not seem to have been seam welded on the old panel I removed but they were very rusty so it would appear that they were not sealed and water got in. I will be spot welding the flat section to the top of the inner wing but this is not yet done in the photos. I thought of just spot welding them together then sealing the edges with seam sealer, but I would appreciate any advice. Many thanks, Sean
  13. Gentlemen, having read few horror stories about the SS trim piece being hacked while trying to remove it I decided that no screwdriver will make it anywhere close to the trim. Still I need to remove it. I'm faced with 2 options: cold or hot. Cold: Does anyone knows of any mixture that will help dissolving the black mastic? and how to apply it ? Hot: Has anyone tried a butane burner to generate a meltdown of the mastic? What are the risks for the trim? PS: The lid is aluminium. Thanks for your inputs
  14. Hi - sorry for all the 'New Topics' but we are getting right down to the nuts and bolts of the rebuild. The picture shows 2 blocks that came from the rear of the TR4A IRS chassis. I have no record of where. Can anyone enlighten me? Many thanks as always Paul
  15. Dear all. Will a CR chassis for on a CP car? Are there any differences apart from the overdrive brackets?
  16. I’m looking to fit a rear firewall to OGB (a TR2) as recommended by many. I know this topic has been dealt with or referred to a number of times and there are lots of encouraging comments and some photos of the how the bottom of the firewall is riveted to the floor but I can’t find any photos of how to fix the top. I’m OK with the general principle, aluminium angle to the floor and inside faces of the wheel arches to which the firewall is then riveted but I’m struggling with the detail of how to attach the top of it to the front of the rear deck and seal it. The rear cockpit liner (tank board) is fitted by pushing the top edge into bent strips under the rear deck. This locates the top edge of the liner under the front edge of the rear deck and then a couple of screws into the floor hold it in place. It would be really easy to just pop rivet the firewall to the front edge of the rear deck but it looks as if it gets tricky where the rear deck curves forward at the sides but also the nicely trimmed cockpit liner would have to be mucked about with and it would need self tappers on the top to hold it in place The photo below shows the space to be filled showing the tabs under the rear deck that the cockpit liner locates in (acknowledgements to Revington TR for the photo and who also describe fixing the top edge as being “the tricky bit”!) On the basis of a picture is worth a thousand words, does anyone have any photos of a firewall fixed and sealed to the rear deck and which also allows the cockpit liner to be fitted? Also any recommendations for sealant. Thanks Phil
  17. The weather is improving, and I retired a few weeks ago so it's time to venture into the workshop and continue work on the 2. I have fitted repair sections to both of my front wings. A ready made 12" section to the nearside, and a 4" home made section to the offside. The original edge wire is extended well into the new sections and mig welded at the ends of the seam. The seam itself is joggled and spot welded every 1". Question is..... what's the best way to finish the seam? 1. I could fully seam weld across either the inside or outside of the seam, but I don't want to risk distorting the wing. 2. I could just lead the outside and seam seal the inside. 3. I could use filler, but this would probably crack in time. How have you chaps done yours? Les
  18. I have managed to fit the new grommets using the tapred bolt crushing technique, but some seem to be able to push flat the washer to lock it in. I have tried using thumbs either side, also pushing with a wide socket, without success. Do I need to buy a few tins of spinach, or is there a secret technique ? Cheers
  19. Ive got 4 door locks and a boot lock but no keys for any of them. Suspect that I have two sets of door locks (TR6), seemingly in goodish nick. Boot lock also looks good, again no key. Is there anyway to find out what key fits or replace innards to match a key. Just seems a waste to dump all 5 of them......for the sake of a couple of keys and a bit of skul duggery.....
  20. mike3739

    TR6

    Hi Fellow TR6 owners is anyone in need of TR6 O/S front wing brand new in black primer with no rust. I will email photos obliviously, collection only from Birmingham 2 miles from Birmingham Airport & NEC looking for £350. Please PM me with your email address. Cheers Mike.
  21. My boot lid has been mended many times and has so much lead that it is heavy to lift. The internal corners have been mended too often and there is now a raised bump on the surface. So looking for an answer, I have just bought a boot lid for my 3A and it does not have the correct raised hinge plinths. It is smooth and has no rust damage.The paint has been removed and the entire panel treated for rust.It will fit perfectly. Vivdownunder used to have a friend who was making plinths. He seems to have disappeared and I am now searching for a supplier in the UK. My paint shop will have to make their own unless I supply some. Does anyone have an answer? Thanks Richard
  22. I am replacing the offside rear inner wing panel. It is a heritage panel from Rimmers but the fit is not the best and I would welcome some advice. For background I have replaced floor pans, inner and outer sills, and boot floor and sides and let in patches to the wheel arches. At the bottom of the B post on the inside, the panel does not sit back far enough to the wheel arch flange and the hole for the seat belt nut does not line up with the insert nut. See the arrows on the picture attached. The rest of the panel fits relatively well so I am wondering should I just drill out the hole in the panel to match the insert nut and weld it in, or is there some fettling I can do to try to get it all to line up? Thanks in advance for any help. Sean
  23. Just about to order floor panels from Moss, but came across Bastuk. Decent price at mo, although I can't click far enough yet to get a price including delivery. Anyone any experience re fit, quality, delivery etc
  24. Hi all, Looking for advice please on how to fold these tabs on the back of the floor pan up around the heel board. They have a double curve and I can't see that hammer and dolly is going to do anything other than make a big mess. Also is it best to drill holes in the heelboard and plug weld the fold or seam weld it once folded. Thanks in advance for advice. Many thanks, Sean
  25. I'm slowly clearing out my stocks of surplus sidescreen TR parts. Everything is For Sale from a top grade 3A gearbox to a new front grille, new Lucas screenwash bottle, new vent lid, new BL badges to pre-used fuel tank, door-handles, badges etc. More parts to follow. They're a click away here on Buy/Sell/Trade, btw our club's website has a far superior rate of successful sales for my TR parts than the dreaded eBay. Happy TR-ing, Pat. Memb No; 2110.
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