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Found 511 results

  1. Getting close to the end of a refresh with VHP, started as a engine bay repaint...........dont ask I got a bit carried away ! Anyway, the rear screen seal is as hard as Hades! Does anyone have a recommendation for a seal that fits and actually holds the screen in, the one I have does but it was a brute to refit it a couple of years ago and could do with replacing. Iain
  2. Mark69

    Boot Lid

    I have what sounds like a cup full of c##p floating around between the two layers of my boot lid. Is it possible to separate these without doing to much damaged so I can clean and treat properly. Your thoughts and ideas welcome. Mark
  3. I want to fit new 2500 badges above the quarter light on the rear wings of my TR5. It's a bit of detail that wasn't done during my rebuild about 20 years ago and I've just treated myself to some badges. So, is there a template that describes it's exact positioning relative to the quarter light? Like so many things, this may have been covered before but I can't find anything on the forum. Many thanks, Malcolm
  4. Crawfie

    Bonnet Respray

    The paint on my bonnet is really starting to look awful. For whatever reasons i have small blisters popping up and what looks like crazy paving under the top coat. Basically it looks like cr@p and needs repainting. Could the sages give me a general idea of the price I will be looking at ? I've contacted a couple of body shops and the prices have been @£200 per panel and £50 per panel too blend it in to the wings. I this reasonable ?
  5. You may recall that I recently renewed by bonnet dzus and washers, only to find it started rattling. I then fitted the recommended stops and spacers and fiddled about with their respective heights. It no longer rattles, indeed I would say, is so tight it is almost monocoque-like now ! However, I have noticed that the rear of the bonnet part of the hinge - where it rests atop the scuttle - is beginning to rub, I guess because the bonnet (hood) is now clamped lower at the front. In this chain reaction of adjustments, how do I raise the bonnet hinge before it rubs through the paintwork? Is it a case of just raising the stop and dzus anchor bracket further - or is it time for a fatter gasket under the scuttle part of the hinge ? TVM ps - olde smokey (aka the bondo b*tch) will be available at the TRR stand (is there one?) at the Silverstone Classic all weekend, please feel free to leave notes pointing out the missing bits !
  6. Afternoon again gents, Can anyone provide a photo of the matt black area behind the grill. Thanks Steve
  7. What is the technique to get my car back from the paint shop. It was a two week job involving the two front wings and the front panel. We have just passed week 11. The body shop have done a great job so far. The bonnet gaps are correct and the door gaps are even. The grille fits the front panel which now fits very well. I have been there three times and sent four emails over the period. I called last Wednesday with the letters for the front panel, so that they line up properly before painting, and asked him to finish it in a week. He said he would try. It was agreed that it would be done two weeks ago, but that did not happen. I rang at lunchtime on Saturday and he came to the 'phone did swearing and was angry, saying that the job was taking much longer than he thought and he was not charging me any extra. In order to maintain income he has to do other work. I can understand his position. If he is losing his temper then i will not call again. I must be down to emails now which his wife, who works in the office, only replies that he is doing his best. There is a Ford Capri and another old car gathering dust in the top workshop and when I inquired about them he explained that the owner did not care. I have made it clear that I do care but do not know what to do next. He did the two back wings before and the finished work was first class. HELP
  8. I have a quick question regarding the small "shelf" that is part of the inner front wheel arch assembly.(Mounted on that is another smaller one to which the brackets for the horns and horn relay are mounted). On my 4a the ones attached to the inner wing are the same and are about 10" long with curve indented in them. I noticed that on a friends 4a the drivers side is the same but on the passengers side, the curve is not in the pressing, it is straight front to back. Was there any difference between 4 and 4a inner wings? I have have viewed many engine bay pictures on the Internet, and cannot work out why there should be any difference from one side to the other, unless in the past there was a replacement inner wing fitted. So I ask if any knowledgeable members can enlighten me as to 1. what models had that difference, and 2. would any cars have one of each from new? Many thanks for your help. Andy C
  9. Hi, I would like to fit an original hardtop to my TR6. Could anyone help me with fitting instructions? Apparently printed instructions have been existing in the past... Many thanks, Dave
  10. Hi Working on a rebuild of a tr6 and it is a bit of a tail of woe that I won't both you all with. Anyway advice request. Having trouble with bonnet alignment its away right now but due back shortly. Seems my hope for the bonnet fit is a bit Basically to my eye it appears the front end is out of square and therefore the bonnet has not a hope of fitting with nice gaps all round. I think the dimensions are good just out of square. I wondered how movable the front outer wings are in relation to the inner wings? As I mull this it seems rigidity seems to come from the actual bolting of the wings inner to outer. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  11. I have replaced / renewed the half grommet and washer on my bonnet dzus's (original dzus's retained), as they were either missing or very rattly. Now the fixing doesn't rattle, but the new parts have had the effect of clamping the bonnet down very tight - too low, such that when driving the rigidity of the bonnet seems to cause it to rattle instead What is the best way to address, just add a thin washers to the the bracket that the dzus clamps into ? Thanks.
  12. Who supplies rear bottom wing repair sections? Mark
  13. I have been fitting my repaired front panel to the 3a after a delay at the paint shop. The panel fits well and I have spent two days fitting all the bumpers lights etc. The front grill was quite time consuming. The letters on the panel are tricky to fit with the panel in place and my fingers are sore from pushing those little clips. The real problem is that when I went to fit the bonnet catch, the front support bar has been fitted the wrong way so that the holes on the underside of the the bar are at the wrong side of the car. The obvious answer is to remove the front panel and start again. It is new paint, fits well and I want to be road testing the new water pump. I am sure that if I take it off there will be damage, scratches and problems. The question is how can I drill new holes on the underside of the bar from the engine bay? Is there some tool that might help to drill upwards.? Is there another way to fit the bonnet spring? Any suggestions welcomed. Thanks Richard & H.
  14. Hi, went for a spin in the sun today, car going great. However passenger side latch stopped working, door flew open, luckily passenger grabbed it. Can't see anything broken but the latch doesn't spring back any more (the part screwed to the door) . These seem to be NLA, so anyone go one willing to sell ?
  15. Hello all, Is this stuff any good http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-paint-coating-electroplating/automotive-paint/eastwood-paints/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-paint-black-946ml-us-quart.html ? Seems to be just what I'm looking for, I simply want to freshen up sections of chassis as I go along with little or no prep. Or is this just as good at a far lower price http://www.frost.co.uk/frost-chassis-black-paint.html ?
  16. Evening all Does anyone have experience of acid dipping body shells? Any recommendations? Jp
  17. Should the gap on top of the door be equal along its length, both my doors widen nearer the front. Is this what happens after years of slamming doors?
  18. I have two sets of mounting points on both a posts ,I assume I should only have one switch either side, looking through the parts book only one shows. If only one is needed which set of holes should I weld up. Mark.
  19. Hi Folks, looking for a definative answer and if at all possible a photo of the original TR6 seat belt fitting. The stalk a the floor end, pal in the group, his seems to come off at right angles to the bolt, thats through the floor. All looks a bit odd to me, or is this correct? John.
  20. Mark69


    Recently had a few bits zinc plated and took my door handles to have chromed, they said it wasn't possible for them to do these due to being white metal. Am I better to find somebody who can or buy new ones? Any recommendations gladly accepted. Mark
  21. Had a couple of quotes to rechrome door handles, staggered at cost. Replacement door handles less than half price. Wondered if any of you have fitted these and your thoughts on quality. Thanks Mark.
  22. On the rear floor panel ,just behind the chassis bridge fixing holes, there are two indents one either side. On my panel these have been repaired ( not very well). I want to repair and wondered if they are their for any particular reason, I can't think why. Can I replace with flat metal ?. Mark
  23. Hello, I am in the process of a body-off restauration of my 1970 CP TR6, and the chassis is not too bad overall (it has all fatigue cracks in the known places and some minor corrosion here and there, but it is severely corroded at the T-shirt area, bottom side only. The chassis is gritblasted, and the rotten sections are removed (see 1st picture). I measured the chassis and compared it with the chassis dimensions table from the Brown Bible; it is remarkable how staight a chassis can be after 40 years, all dimensions are within +/1-3 mm, so I assume acceptable. During welding (small sections, working cross-pattern), I noticed the chassis was deflecting from the accumulative weld shrink, so I stopped welding, and with hammering out the welds (peening), I was able to correct some of it. I have now supported the chassis below the repair area (see 2nd picture), and with some nylon straps I can pre-stress the chassis and I was able to correct the remaining deflection rather easily, going in the plastic range, so the chassis is straight again. Now my question: Since the upper side will not be welded (it is not corroded) the chassis will deflect, probably to unacceptable levels if I don't control the weld shrink, so I want to pre-stress the chassis. Does anyone know how much is needed? I realize the amount of weld shrinkage is depending on weld speed, sequence, weld size etc, so a fixed number cannot be given. Thanks for your help, Waldi
  24. Anyone interested in ganging up for this? There's for close to 10K £ at retail price http://www.ebay.com/itm/triumph-tr-4-bulk-parts-/172035202964?hash=item280e18df94:g:64EAAOSw14xWJocA&vxp=mtr Edit: Had a phone call with the seller to inquire about specific parts i.e. grille and hardtop. He just sent me the pics below he had at hand....Enough for me to clic the "buy" button. Now the boring logisitic will start, everything must be out by the end of February. Will get and post more pictures of the treasure chest later on More pics....
  25. The frame for my soft top appears too wide for the car. I can force the sides in to screw in the frame but then the rest of the frame will not fold down properly as the rest of the hinges snags on each other.. With the aid of a screw driver I can force the hinges past each other but all of this has damaged the trim. Any suggestions Alan
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