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Cars Owned:

  1. I have rubbed the casing flange to bare metal where the parts book indicates the number is, but there is nothing there! Can anyone advise where I will find it? All that is on the casing near the vent is TC2 [in upside down position!] Yours hopefully Willie
  2. I am fitting a different ratio to my back axle. The new pinion has etched on it a dimension.(83.71) Can anyone help by telling me what this refers to. It does not appear to be the distance from the pinion face to the crown wheel centre line. The 4.1ratio cwp removed(in good order) is now surplus-any offers?
  3. I just overhauled the front suspension and as part of that installed Mr.Moss’s uprated axle/bearings/hubs. All went well until the last one, the damn bearing wouldn’t fit on the axle. Could I get the blighter out, could I hell, I even tried swearing at it! In the end I had to take the assembly to Moss so they could press it out. A 20 tonne press later it finally yielded.... after pushing the nut down the thread! It had only been installed a couple of days.......Cold welded! The axle was 0.003 oversize. Moral.....trial fit first before committing! TRrials and TRibulations
  4. Folks, I'm about to pull the rear axle on my green TR4 which has an original Salisbury LSD fitted. The current axle is shot for a number or reasons (courtesy of a DPO welding the nuts to the axles... ) so I am going to fit an American Tr4a live axle for it's preferred strength but have the LSD rebuilt & fitted into the new axle. My question is - who in the Country is best to go to for a rebuild on my Salisbury LSD? Thanks
  5. Hi all After re-building a 5, I had an annoying (not much, but enough) whine from the diff. We had refurbed the original diff, but only with new seals, gaskets etc. There was a little play as expected. The original diff must have done 85K+, but we felt it was worth just putting it back to see what sort of condition it was really in. Well it it whined especially, around the 50mph mark on or off load, it was much the same. Anyway a while back, I had my 6 diff re-built. That was whining too, I took it to a specialist (I won't shame them yet) but it was re-built with a new crown wheel and
  6. Hi All, I am looking for some assistance with rear end noise. While I appreciate it is a common issue in older models, its now happening on the TR6 too. When driving yesterday there was a noise from the back end of the car which grew louder fairly quickly. It gets worse as I move up through the gears. I have been under the car today and cannot find any loose bolts or see anything obvious which may be catching as the prop shaft/axle turns. There is a little bit of play on the nearside rear wheel if I rock it from top to bottom but I wouldn't say its a huge amount. The offside is sol
  7. A friend has fitted the CCD driveshafts to his Stag, unfortunately one of the CV joint gaiters needs to be replaced and he is struggling to undo the driveshaft hub nut, any tips?
  8. Hi all, After 44 years (the car that is.. Ive done more!) I think its time to review the driveshafts and hubs on my TR6.. especially as I get various rear end noises, clicking, the odd (small) clonk on taking up drive etc.. and when I investigated the driveshafts there is definite play in the sliding joint.. Ive also read various alarming stories about hub failure, and I dont fancy the consequences! The question is... what option to go for.. The car isnt used hard.. no track days etc.. just regular driving, with the occasional overtaking of the slower traffic 😉 :-)
  9. Hello, after just 100 km....going from nearly 0 play to this.....any thoughts? Jochem
  10. I have finally got around to installing the new 3.45 CW&P that I obtained yonks ago. My TR3a has got a 2.2 litre engine along with a slightly hotter cam; a TR4a head, manifold and carbs and a Phoenix exhaust. As a result it has always felt undergeared. I have set the pinion to what I think is the right depth using my new pinion depth gauge (thanks Bob Le Brocq) but it's not straightforward because the top of the pinion (which is where I am measuring from) is not absolutely level. It varies by about 2 thou across the pinion, so I have set it somewhere about the middle. Attached a
  11. I have recently acquired a 1930's to 1940's Pinion Depth Gauge for Buicks. See the attached photos. It was all rusted up when I got it but I have been able to free off the micrometer and it is still accurate - its only a very fine thread after all so there isn't much that can go wrong with it. The two discs are designed to fit in the bearing caps for the crown wheel making it easy to set the depth of the pinion from the CW axis. As is to be expected the discs are too large for a TR3a/TR4 axle. Hence my need for some assistance. I don't have a lathe. I also can't be positive abo
  12. Hello all... Let's try to keep this to ourselves (I don't want those Peerless guys getting wind of this) I've started restoring a 1960 3A I know, SPLITTER! I'm just asking in case there's a good resource/cheat sheet of 'sensible/practical modifications' for people doing a complete nut and bolt rebuild. Does anything want strengthening/beefing up/adding/cutting off (I'm talking about the car) etc on either the body/chassis ? Are there any well known weaknesses or failings (I'm talking about the TR...) that can be improved upon without spoiling the originality (noticeably)
  13. Hi everyone Heading says it all really - looking for diff complete with front and rear mountings, condition not really important, as I simply want to use it as a jig/template for resetting/refurbing the diff pins and bridges on my chassis. Why don't I use my existing one, you may well ask? Well like an idiot, I've done things in the wrong order and had it rebuilt - it looks the dogs do dahs, so much so I don't want to spoil it by constantly trial fitting it in an hostile welding/grinding environment - hence why condition is not important so long as it is complete. If it is serviceable
  14. We was leaving for the ferry to France the Friday before last and as I pulled away there was a graunching noise from around the prop shaft area. The day before I filled up wth fuel and everything was good but when I went around a corner I heard a loudish clonk which I assumed was something in the road, from then on home still everything was good, loaded the car up in the morning and off we went when this graunching started. It sounds worse in 1st eases off in 2nd nothing in 3rd or 4th but the diff is sounding noisier than usual. I had the gearbox rebuilt last year and it's only done 2000 mil
  15. Alloy front hubs. What is the teams concencus on standard fitting, or get the spacer and shim mod kit or go for the bigger bearings and new upgraded stub axle?
  16. Anyone got a tip how to mount the rear axle in an empty frame (no engine, no body weight to help), leaf springs make quite a resistance. Thinking of removing rear shackles, fix the axle and try to bend down the rear of the spring to fit the shackle back. /Inge
  17. How much movement should there be in the differential. I was fitting a new spline to the rear wheel when I noticed that there is some free play when you move the wheel. I will measure it later today. I think that it is still adjusted as when new and is probably due for an overhaul. Please advise. Thanks Richard & H.
  18. I started the fitting of a Rover SD1 axle to my 7V8 FHC over some 20 years ago but it stalled due to various other mods. My aim was to use the Rover axle with the additional track and 3.08 ratio. Fitting TR7 axle brackets and V8 propshaft the car now drives.I have finally managed to get to try out all my endeavors. I am now faced with a design problem I had not foreseen. I had presumed the main central axle castings of 7 and SD1 were similar seeing as the crown wheel and pinions are interchangeable. Not so! I have noticed that the propshaft drive flange on the Rover axle sits approx. 1"(
  19. Having just covered 2000 miles in the sunshine of France I have returned with a need to improve the cruising experience. So the question is how do I alter the gearing to reduce revs in top gear. I have a late '71 6 with A type overdrive, I know it's possible to put in a foreign box but I like the overdrive and wouldn't like to lose it. I have considered the pipe and slippers version with a burbling V8 but I'm just not old enough for that yet! Any thoughts??
  20. Please could someone tell me the width (backplate to backplate) of the TR2/3/3a Girling back axle (TS commission numbers) and the TR4 Girling back axle (BT and CT commission numbers). I have searched the forum and the web, but cannot find this information. Thank you Jonathan
  21. Needing to replace a front wheel bearing, I've decided to do both regardless. Question is, what is the quality of the bearings from the usual suspects, or should I source from somewhere like simply bearings? Dave
  22. I've just started to strip down the driveshafts today and when I removed the rubber boots I was surprised to see they are different. First indications are that the splines are in good condition with very little wear and so I'd like to re-use them. Can anyone cast light on which (if either) is the original TR4a driveshaft and what the other one is off? Thanks, Barry
  23. Ok those of you that are regular readers of this forum will probably by now have realised that i spend far to much time surfing the web, probably a symptom of having a 'challenging' desk based job that I have to escape from time to time ! Anyway I've just been looking at an article which suggests changing the standard 3.45:1 CWP out for a 3.7 and then chaining the OD ratio from the standard 'A' type 22.5% to 28% gives lower ratio non OD gears for hooning about whilst providing a slightly higher ratio in OD top for cruising, has any body carried out this mod and was it worth the effort.
  24. Could anyone help with a solution? We have a few TR's in from the USA and have noticed that there is a lot of what we are classing as a Tar or like Underseal on the chassis and running gear. Does anyone know what it is and also if there is any solvent or chemical we could use to dissolve it? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks ian
  25. Hi All Since I seem to get sensible and good answers I thought I'd just keep asking questions to get help with the rebuild of my Tr4A (solid axle). When considering the differential, there seems to be two on offer, a 3.7:1 and a 4.1:1. What are peoples opinions on this. A quick and crude calculation: In direct drive (1:1gear ratio) with the wheel diameter = 0.645 m at 4000 RPM, this should result in a speed of 80 mph for a 3.7:1 differential. This is very rough as it doesn't account for resistance. Is there any benefit for going for a slower diff (i.e. the 4.1:1)? Or if you are pu
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