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  1. For those of you who have used ARP head bolts, have you retorqued them or not? The manufacturer states: "Do I need to re-torque my head bolts or studs? If you follow the ARP installation instructions, there should be no need to do a re-torque. However, it may be necessary under certain circumstances if the gasket manufacturer’s instructions require it, particularly if a fire ring has been installed. ARP recommends not doing a re-torque on a hot engine." My engine builder says I should.
  2. Thought a few techies might be interested in the following pictures to have a guess at cause. As you can see all the exhaust valves stems have a very light white coating. A few clues to help you on your way. All 6 are identical, the plug colours (as much as you can tell with modern fuel) are in the nice mid brown shade. I run permanent AFR logging on both banks of cylinders, they never go lean, apart from at gentle cruise (no load) say 2-2.5K when I allow the AFR's to hover in the 15-16 band. About 1300 miles since last winters light rebuild, new shells, new rings, cleaned
  3. My car has been with Crown Classics for a few days to sort out the bad running. Just heard back from them, and my worst fears were realised. A new camshaft is required. Everything else was checked recently when a new thrust bearing was fitted, compression is really good and equal. The engine was rebuilt several years ago by the infamous engine builder that many people were using at the time. He has since disappeared from the Triumph scene after many people had problems with his work including camshaft failure. Although I had other serious problems, I thought I had escaped the camshaft prob
  4. Interesting article on pistons etc http://www.wbclassics.com/tech/tr6/engine/triumph-tr6-cast-piston-comparison
  5. OK, there probably isn't a definitive answer as trawling through the Forum seems to indicate but I'll ask the question anyway. When I get around to putting my engine back together, what CR should I be aiming at? Six pot, 2.5 with a CP camshaft. +20 overbore running EFI. Standard head & exhaust. Standard pump fuel. Road and the occasional trackday use. The answer will be between 9.5:1 and 11:1 but that's quite a range which I'd like to narrow down Jerry
  6. Hi All, I'm new to the Register so I'll just throw my thoughts out there for any kind mbrs who might help. I have a 1980 TR7 with a buick 231 ci v6 engine (3.8L). I'm doing almost all the restoring myself but before I go too far, I thought it may be best to seek out this forum for those of you that have way more experience than me. Most of my questions have to do with available options for stronger or better parts due to the increased performance I have over the stock 4 cyl engine. I'll just throw out a few topics if anyone can make some good suggestions: 1. what low profile hood scoop with a
  7. In the maintenance manual it give a road speed for a given engine speed, not in RPM but ft/min. Something like 2500ft/min piston speed and 85 mph. Is this a recommended max crz. speed. For engine life. If so I better ease of the gas a bit!! Dave
  8. I've been hunting down an odd noise from the TR5 engine and having exhausted the usual suspects pulled the lump and started to strip it down. It seems that number 3 has a crack in the cylinder wall. I need to strip the rest of it but I'm thinking that the block is probably scrap. Particularly odd is that number 4 was significantly down on compression but I can't see an issue, yet number 3 was fine. One of the local group has a 2 litre six pot that might be available - what are the differences between 2 and 2.5 blocks (apart from the crank/conrods)? Alternatives might be get
  9. Hi chaps Does anyone have the ignition timing data for a TR6 CR model. I believe the engine is all standard! It has a Pertronix pick up in place of points. It also has a new crank damper I picked up in the states, and yes I checked the null line agrees with TDC. Currently with the engine idling at circa 800 rpm I have strobed it and set to 11 deg BTDC this changes to about 29 deg at just over 2k rpm. The manual mentions nothing for PI cars except static timing.
  10. Hi all I don't suppose anyone knows where I can get 12 new injector seals for inside injectors? I wish to refit on two engines as the condition of the ones I have are unknown. Thanks in advance. Andy
  11. Hello, I wonder, if there is someone who really knows why Triumph the CP manifolds has changed to CR. What is function of the bulge, in the channel, and the front balance pipe. For the balance pipe, I think it is to flatten the depression peaks caused by the 311399 camshaft. The bulge in the channel, I think is to make sure that the injected fuel, are better mixed. What are you think? Thanks, Rien
  12. I've been reading some of the threads relating to batteries today, as I'm thinking of upgrading mine. There's lots of information on the subject, but I'm still unsure about what is best. I see that "CCA" seems to be one of the most important things, so I was looking at batteries that are good in this respect. I found this one: https://www.tayna.co.uk/Optima-Blue-Top-Battery-BT-Slim-4.2-P436.html It's the correct size (almost - about 4mm deeper) and correct terminal layout, but it's CCA is 815 A instead of my current 570, and it's 50 Ah instead of the AH (20h) I have. And so I thought it m
  13. I've seen and followed the advice of so many queries on this forum relating to starting difficulties with the PI engine that I thought it worth posting my most recent experience on the subject. After years (yes, years) of apprehension before every cold start, I turned to the only item on the car related to the starting procedure that I had not previously changed - the battery and hey presto, the problem was solved in a trice. To be clear, the battery had been replaced a while ago, but I had paid no particular regard to its performance characteristics, just so long as it was the right s
  14. Hi Folks Anyone Know or have 6 cyl block open that they could look at. Block just back from shop and I'm in process of deep clean, and yes folks even after a hot chemical wash those oilways are filthy!. Anyway am cleaning the oilways and realise that I don't know how No 3 main journal gets its oil feed, or rather I thought I did in which case I have a real problem, so need a sanity check from someone. The oil gallery is cast down the side of the block, at the position of each main there is a grubscrew/filler plug from which there is a crossways drilling that then intersects a
  15. All Triumph sixes are fitted with a crankshaft damper, in the form of the pulley. These viscous dampers are, more than a little, mysterious and ill-understood. The online magazine RET (Race Engine Technology) Monitor has published a couple of short articles recently that may be of interest: https://www.highpowermedia.com/RET-Monitor/3850/damping-vibration https://www.highpowermedia.com/blog/3870/more%20on%20dampers John
  16. Just got my new thrust washers from Scott Helms, beautifully machined, and IMO much better than the ST originals. So if your doing your wear checks and need new..... Highly recommended! Sent an email got a reply within a couple of hours, payed by paypal emailed back next day to say they were ready to be manufactured and arrived a week later. http://www.customthrustwashers.com No association just a very satisfied customer.
  17. Looking to replace the small end bushes on a straight 6, are they a home DIY replacement with the internal diameter being good enough as purchased or do they need to be machined to fit (reamed)? When I inspected I found no.5 had rotated and the oil hole wasn't aligned, could also press out with thumb! Thanks
  18. I am restoring my TR250 and have installed all the electrics, today I fitted the battery to try things out. when I got to the indicators, strange things happening, the only thing that works is the hazards and then only when the indicator switch is on (right and/or left) but no dash warning light (hazard or indicator) and only with the ignition only, when I remove the hazard flasher from circuit, the indicators work right /left (and the warning light) but won't flash? The only thing that's not yet in circuit is the front indicator lights (as I haven't fitted the grill) but I can't see how this
  19. I recently had an entire engine re-build at a shop and have spent the last week re-installing the engine into the car. When I tried to start it, it would turn over but not start. I pulled a spark plug and no spark arced to ground. I have 12 volts going into the coil at the wire lead into the + side, but on the coil terminal it goes to 9V. On the negative side, with the terminal lead to the distributor off, I read 9V at the tab. As soon as I put the wire end on the tab, the voltage goes to zero. The positive side has also has a lead to what looks like a ballast resistor, which I grounded to
  20. Being just about to build a new engine, I bought some Graphogen. I've used Camlube before on bearings, thinking that the added lithium will protect for the first startup, but graphite would seem theoreticaly at least to be better. The Instructions on the tube say that it may be used on "All working surfaces....especially cylinder walls and piston rings" Really? Won't that promote glazing of the bores? I'll be grateful for views from the Delphic oracle that is this Board. John
  21. No doubt some of the more technically minded on here can advise on how accurate the film is, but it looks pretty impressive to me! Regards Peter
  22. I'm sure someone is bound to feel this topic should be in another section, but this one seemed as appropriate as anywhere to me, and we don't need a major debate on the issue. As some Forumites will be aware, I do occasionally have old clutch covers and plates properly reconditioned. The chaps who do these for me are most reliable, I’ve used them personally since the 1980s, and in serious quantity business wise when I was motor factoring during the ‘90s. They are primarily ‘trade’ suppliers, by no means the cheapest, but then you do get what you pay for. Changing times, the independent
  23. Hi Guys Can anyone tell me where I can get hold of a replacement step down hose which brings the size of the bosch fuel pump down to the size of the fuel line, on my set up it looks like a piece of garden house. Cheers Carl
  24. A bit of a controversial title, but looking for some feedback either positive or negative! Whilst I'm looking at this in respect of a 2.0 Ltr Triumph 6, I think the same issue applies to the 2.5 engine. I'm also talking about triple CD or SU carbs not triple Webber/Delorto's as they would have 6 choke/throttle barrels. My conundrum is that I know that the twin CD150's on my 2.0 are close to their limit viz what the engine now needs, and also the adjustable needle choices available are very limited. So do I look at a better twin carb set up, or look at some triple carb set up.
  25. Does anyone know if the new 6 cylinder rod bolts (UKC2598) currently available from the usual suspects are up to scratch? Or have any suggestions for alternatives? I'm in the process of building a 2L version for my Vitesse and though it probably will see the wrong side of 6,500k occasionally, it's strictly a road car so I'll not be hitting that sort of rpm (legally) in any gear above second or holding it for more than a few seconds. I know the original bolts were decent quality and have a couple of sets - both used and with unknown history though they look fine and measure the same lengt
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