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  1. I am about to start the re-assembly of my TR3a engine. As part of the work I had the machine shop remove the ally core plugs at each end of the oil gallery so that they could give it a good clean. So my question is, what is the recommended procedure for replacing these items? Do I cut a slot in one end and screw them in as tight as possible with a large screwdriver before removing any outstanding stub with an angle grinder? And what sealant should I use? I have JB weld, Araldite rapid epoxy, Loctite 270, Wellseal and Heldtite. I don't want there to be any possibility of a lea
  2. I have two old and used Borg and Beck clutch driven plates in my garage. Both still have a lot of 'meat' left on them. One is from a TR3a, the other from a TR4. Neither is any use to me as I now have a saloon O/D box complete with the 1" input shaft as opposed to the 1 1/4" TR one. Is anyone interested in having them (for the cost of P&P) before they go to the skip? Rgds Ian
  3. Whilst tidying some stuff the other day I 'found' my compression tester which I bought back in the early 70s and hardly ever used. Anyway, as a displacement activity from further tidying, I thought I would carry out a quick test. The engine was stone cold and I got the following results: 160psi 165psi 165psi 165psi I then repeated the test after putting a couple of squirts of oil in the bores and got 170psi 175psi 175psi 175psi All of these figures were repeatable. I then carried out a search of the forum to find out whether or not the lower reading on No: 1 is significant and it appea
  4. Spin off from a recent forum discussion, I noted that Helen Gill is offering on the 'bay a nos OE Stanpart 57113 . . . . which fits all wet-liner 4-pots, TR2 through TR4A. The only wheels I've seen in recent years have been repros, which didn't impress me any more than do some of the timing chains currently available. As it happens, Helen tells me she has a modest box full of these OE chain wheels . . . . well worth grabbing one, I'd suggest, if you are planning an engine rebuild, at least in my view. No I don't know just what she wants for one, but if a repro is £33 I'd expect to
  5. Having recently fitted a Pertronix set up to my TR3a, I have been experimenting with the timing. I indexed the front pulley when I rebuilt the engine so it is a fairly straightforward task to check the timing with a strobe - I don't have one of the fancy modern ones that allows you to read it off the light. I have set the plug gaps to 32 thou and have found that the engine runs best and at its smoothest with a nice clean pick up from low revs and no pinking with the timing set to 10 deg. BTDC at idle (800 rpm) with the vacuum advance removed. My calculated CR is 9.2:1 and I am usin
  6. Here's a pdf of the talk: https://supertrarged.wordpress.com/2017/07/10/how-does-an-su-carburettor-work/ There's information about SUs ( and Stromberg CDs) that will probably be new even to most SU experts: 'mixture spread'. ======== May I thank those of you who braved the sauna-like conditons in the Friesen Shed. And may I apologise that you could not hear me. I do not have a loud voice and the PA for the arena defeated my best efforts. In my defence I had requested months before that a lapel mic and amp-loudspeaker be provided. It was not there. So I have suggested to the powers tha
  7. hi my friendly engine builders, finally stript the engine, biggest problem was the 4 inner head bolts, after trying different methods j resulted in taking the pots out, welding nuts on the stud and playing heat on the thread, using a 1 metre bar they finally gave in, I did try soaking them in paraffin but the threads were dry in fact nothing seem to enter the stud hole, I can understand why people run into trouble, if the stud is soft, you have had it. I had already made my mind up if it snapped i would have gone to a machine shop to have it removed the stud is just to long to us
  8. OK, as with previous posts...... 30 mile run a few weeks ago - fine (apart from oil cooling rad bursting on way home) (now replaced) This weekend, start up to warm engine oil for change. Run for 16 minutes. Fine, no rough running. Change oil. Try to start next day - nothing. Today drain fuel from tank and stick in Treg, put in newly bought fuel, 20 litres, even swap fuel in horizontally positioned float chambers to give it an early chance. No start. Battery is fully charged. HT leads are pretty new and good. Pull spark plug and turn over - no spark. Che
  9. Changed the oil cooler rad' and fittings today, then changed the oil / filter. Between the two I started up and ran for 16 (in case the nosey neighbour and EHO are reading) minutes to warm the oil. It took a while to start but once running seemed fine (albeit slight smell of fuel in engine bay). After changing the oil and filter I tried to fire it up to check that all was well under pressure. Oddly wouldn't start - battery charged. Kicked the tyres, still no start, so had a look around the engine bay to check fuel and sparks. Noticed that the front float chamber wa
  10. Evening everyone, I've had the good fortune to come across another sprint engine for my Dolomite (as the current installed engine has spun a bearing ) I've begun a precautionary strip down to make sure its a healthy engine, and a friend, who is very knowledgeable with all thing diesel and marine, came round, took one look at the piston crowns and bore wall tops, and explained that the rings were probably seized (not rotating) and/or worn out and it was called 'piston wash' where the hot gases can escape past the rings in spots, and cause the carbon sealing ring to burn away and the crown
  11. Cracking day at Castle Combe on Tuesday but not without a few issues. OGB is a TR2 with twin Weber 45’s and a few other bits but with a standard mechanical fuel pump. First two sessions, the engine’s on song, running well and pulling hard. Towards the end of the second session the engine cut out and I coasted in. Enlisted the help of Carl and Dan from Revington TR (thanks again guys) and it proved to be the pivot pin on the pump lever had fallen out resulting in no fuel to the carbs. Swopped in a new pump, another session, on song again, problem sorted. Went out for the next se
  12. I have been refurbishing a four cylinder TR head that I acquired a while back and the final stage was to get the face cleaned up with a light skim. I was quite surprised when the garage/machine shop carrying out the work advised me that it had a 5 thou bend in the middle. Obviously this is easily skimmed off but my question is "how does a cast iron head get bent." I can understand it happening with an aluminium head because it has a much lower modulus but cast iron is a pretty stiff material, so what causes it to bend? Rgds Ian
  13. Happy New Year to everyone. My TR3a has an aluminium head, not for performance reasons, but because my original head was scrap; I needed a replacement and the first that was offered was aluminium. Earlier today when I started it after a few days standing idle, it kicked out a lot of white smoke from the exhaust initially before settling down to idle perfectly without a trace of further smoke of any colour. Could that be the head gasket leaking slightly? And moving on from this, I haven't re-torqued the head since I rebuilt the engine say 1500 miles ago, (I forgot). I can't rememb
  14. Dear All, Roger Williams' book "How to improve TR2 - TR4A" mentions that the front main bearing should be slightly undercut to relieve stresses, as has also been suggested on the Forum if modifying an engine. The rear main has this feature machined from original manufacture. Can anybody advise as to why it was not incorporated at the front main when new, and also how it is "better" than ensuring smooth radiussing? Thanks Mike
  15. I am fitting the timing chain cover soon. There is a stud through the cover in the middle. There seems to be some sort of washer or seal under the cover before the bolt goes on the outside to hold it all in. How should I seal this join. It is easy while the front panel is off and very tricky after full assembly. Any suggestions for any other improvements or maintenance, while I can reach easily, would be helpful Thanks, Richard (H is out)
  16. My old pal Martin Jay (Distributor Doctor) asked me recently for my thoughts on tyres for his TR3. It is back on the road after a rebuild that took rather more years than anticipated - Martin founding Distributor Doctor was one good reason, the chaps rebuilding the body was another, and not so good, reason . . . . eventually Martin and yours truly liberated the car and it went to Stuart in Cornwall for a proper job . . . . . Meanwhile, the costly classic tyres purchased more than a few years back seemed to be possessed of more tread than grip. Old problem, on a limited classic mileage
  17. Hi all. On my TR4A, I had to replace the clutch, throwout bearing and carrier, cross shaft and pretty much everything inside the bell housing as the previous starter motor blew up and sent all its springs into the housing causing all kind of mess. Since refitting the new stuff I have found a loud grinding noise whenever the clutch is pressed. This happens when the car is both in and out of gear, when even the slightest pressure is put on the clutch pedal. I am trying to think what it is, and I know it can't be worn parts as they are all new so the only answer is that I have installed s
  18. Just got my new thrust washers from Scott Helms, beautifully machined, and IMO much better than the ST originals. So if your doing your wear checks and need new..... Highly recommended! Sent an email got a reply within a couple of hours, payed by paypal emailed back next day to say they were ready to be manufactured and arrived a week later. http://www.customthrustwashers.com No association just a very satisfied customer.
  19. I would like to fit an Inertia cut off switch to the SU electric pump on my TR3A. I notice that the Land Rover Inertia switches are very cheap to buy. Are they suitable for what I want? Tom.
  20. Further to my article regarding 'new' inlet manifolds. My friend has just told me that when his garage removed the manifold they found the manifold to cylinder head faces were not 'true' and allowed air to be drawn in! Some light machining was necessary! ('new' parts quality ~ I think not!) As I recommended previously, go for a good second-hand manifold every time. Tom.
  21. Another rare opportunity to buy a Triumph Italia, this time at auction: http://www.oldtimergalerie.ch/e/auction/Juni2014.htm June 7th in Switzerland. Further details to follow on this car
  22. Morning Everyone, I don't seem to beable to find anything much on the usual websites, and what there is seems to vary between 60, 55, 54, 34 and even 13 (degrees) Yes, 13 degs on one website for a well known classic car magazine! I'm guessing for a standard 4 cylinder it should be one the higher figures, but can anyone tell me from any factory/workshop manual/bible they might have, what the correct dwell should be please? Also I gather that some people are changing the 4 deg BTC to nearer 8 deg BTC because of lead free fuel. So should the dwell be any different now for the same reason
  23. Not sure which to forum this might typically be posted: http://bringatrailer.com/2014/06/02/1964-triumph-gtr4-dove-coupe/
  24. A very early Italia in truly amazing concours condition is now available for sale at a much reduced price. Silver over black interior, this car was the subject of a no-expense spared professional restoration and retains the condition as displayed at the Ville D'Este concours before the car was brought to England and registered with the plate '59TR.' My detailed investigations conclude that the car is the only known surviving roadworthy 'show' Italia from 1959 with many unique features not found on the subsequent production models. £80,000 including the private plate. Serious collectors may
  25. Some great colour photos from the late fifties including colour photos of the factory production line. https://www.flickr.com/photos/cheesepocket/sets/72157628639064911/ Cheers Graeme
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