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Badfrog

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Posts posted by Badfrog

  1. Hi all,

     

    Having a '63 TR4, the car was positive earth. Some 20-30 years ago I was enticed into getting negative earthing, as the car wa equipped with a dynamo while I wanted an alternator for long range all-seasons driving.

    I turned the battery , the ammmeter and coil wires around, hit the key and kept driving ever since. Regulators (big one and small dashboard unit followed silently).

    Years later, I installed NipponDenso units for alternator and starter motor, and the driving kept on, no worries.

     

    I have the dates for factory changes somewhere if required.

     

    Badfrog

     

    PS: Phew, took me some time, even at 400%, but I did it. Could be typos.

  2. Hi,

     

    I use 165 on 5.5J with great success. I once used 165 on a pair of 6J rims at the rear. it looked weird and worked the same: easy skid on har corners.

    The true problem is what do you do when you dream of 6J's and want them no matter what.

     

    Badfrog

  3. I'd go along with Alec: 20-50W was the "sport oil" reference. A good example was the Valvoline "Racing". Expensive but so chic in the boot. Then, Castrol R 40W was flashy, too.

    For the average banger driver, the kick was 40 or 50W in summer and 30W in the winter. A sure way to go as it was the recommendation for sporty Austins in the '30s. You had to account for the distance between walls and rings ...

     

    Badfrog, but whazzat smell?

  4. Hi,

     

    Thanks for the enlightment.

     

    I'd like to mention something that happened with my 122S Volvo. I built a breather tube "to the road" once and made it a trifle too long. This elicited a sort of "whistle" effect in the tube and the draft under the car aspirated all the engine oil in 5 minutes. I saw the oil pressure gauge falter and killed the engine immediately. Checking the dipstick: engine was empty.

     

    So beware of dimensions.

     

    Badfrog

  5. Hi,

     

    If you don't mind the biochemist speaking, the keyword here is thermal oxidation.

    Anytime you heat ethanol in the presence of air (oxygen 21%) what you get is acetic acid.

    You can pick up from there about metals, alloys and synthetic polymers.

    And of course, whatever the brand, continental fuels are all 5% ethanol except the infamous E85-10 which is 10%.

     

    Badfrog

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