petertrs
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Posts posted by petertrs
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Thanks for the reply Peter and also the link.
Having talked to Steve of S&S it appears that the end float is not uncommon and is more to do with the manufacturing tolernces of both the shaft and housing locators for the bearings.
However having found the end float it continues to dwell in my mind when driving so I will continue to investigate and would welcome any other input.
Peter
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I have a V8 engined, 5 speed TR7 with the semi floating rear axle. Does anyone know what the end float should be for this axle. To my mind I have too much end float although no oil leaks or bearing noise.I understand that replacing the bearing assembly can be tricky - any advise or experience. Is the end float established by a collapsable spacer or shims. The Haynes manual isn't any help.
Thanks,
Peter
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Excellent viewing - when men were really men!
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Very enjoyable. Thanks Hamish, I', amazed that you keep digging these up.
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I have also suffered from this problem, twice over the last three years or so!
It started after I replaced the master cylinder and then servo when addressing a variable braking issue that developed about 8yrs after a total rebuild of the car. The first longish journey after replacing the servo resulted in me grinding to a halt on a motorway. Letting things cool down and then slighly loosening the m/c from the servo got me home. In short I hadn't checked the adjustment of the servo pin and it was protruding too much. The Haynes Manual gives a measurement as does 'Buck Eyed Triumph'. Getting a good pedal bite whilst not preloading the hydraulics is a delicate balance.Talking to some UK TR companies their approach varied but one sensible approach is to take off the m/c reservoir and measure when the tipping valve actuates. I set mine up on the bench with depth guage and monitoring the tippng valve. All was well for about a year and then the same happened. The position of the piston in different master cylinders does vary in dimension.
Having rechecked everything and also monitoring the servo for 'creep' for about an hour with the engine running I couldn't find the issue. After a few enquiries the best I came up with is that there was a period when TRW master cylinders were supplied with dodgy valves. ( I also discovered that TRW and Lucas Cylinders all come off the same production line.) I rebuilt the M/C with all new inards and 18 months down the road all appears well (so far). Interestingly an article inTR Action a couple of issues ago detailed a similar issue with a TR6 during a holiday to France - attributed to the fauly batch of master cylinders.
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7 minutes ago, John Morrison said:
Thanks Paul,
Peter tell me more?
John.
Will send you an emai John.
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One that you can view in South Cumbria John - but it will cost you!!
Peter
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Another thing worth checking is the overdrive switch on the selector housing. I have experienced one of these creating a similar sporadic fault.
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If the ignition warning light holder insulation has failed it will stay on and also cut off the alternator. Try pulling the holder out of the speedo housing and see if the light (now yellow bulb) stays on or acts as it should. This may not be your problem but well worth trying. Brings back painful memories!! If you replace the ammenter with a voltmeter it is easier to see what's happening.
Best of luck.
Peter
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All this historic reading still awaits you for the New Year!!
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More things to pass on to a good, or not so good home. These are all boxed with each box containg two years. All in very good condition.
Obviously too heavy to post so collect from LA6 (South Lakes) or I travel to Chester regularly so could help in that direction.
Too good to go to the tip and some great reading.
Free, but small donation to a childrens charity would be great.
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Carefully stored for too many years - maybe to remind me of the sailing dinghy being towed behind my 3a.
Free to anyone who wants it. Just pay the carage or collect from LA6. Will dismantle for packingif required.
Peter
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Does anyone have a set of manifolds that are surplus to their requirements? If so please PM me.
Thanks
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Thanks Dave, I have just read your post and it sounds familiar. It was John in the workshop at TRBitz who advised me how to set the servo a few years ago, but I guess it will now prove to be defunct - but more tests to do!
The comment about servo's and silicone fluid in the replies to you were puzzling as I can't see how the fluid gets to the servo unless the m/c is leaking, but will have a look.
Peter
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About 3 yrs ago the brake servo failed and I replacaed it with an aftermarket servo from a well known supplier. I then discovered the joys of trying to set the servo output pin to the correct dimension so that the brake response was good, whilst avoiding the brakes not fully releasing. After much measuring and some road testing I achieved this, applied the locktight and breathed a sigh of relief.
After several thousand of miles, including a recent trouble free trip to Scotland, all appeared well. UNTIL this week. Travelling down the motorway in busy trafic in the usual reduced lane area, I appeared to be loosing power, followed by unusual wheel vibrations. Being about 2 miles from a service area I decided to stagger on to safety. By this time it was obvious that the front brakes were firmly on and very fried - lots of smoke and melting of paint, seals etc. By the time the very helpful AA man arrived things had cooled and I had slightly released the master cylinder from the servo to get the car rolling.
Stripping things out yesterday the brakes and hub bearing obviously need a complete rebuild. The puzzle is what was the root cause? The servo pin setting hasn't moved and the master cylinder tipping valve appears to function/release under air pressure. One suggestion is that the servo is 'creeping' slowly as the vac. isn't balanced in the unloaded position. I have yet to try to replicate/test this.
Has anyone else experienced a similar issue with aftermarket servos or other words of advice to add.
With thanks,
Peter
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Having tripped over these many times it must be time to clear them out. And no, they are not for a LandRover.
The first wheel is 6 X15 Gemini (England) wheel which came as a spare for my TR6 many years ago. I have never seen another one, but maybe somepone out there has three.
The second also came as the non matching spare in my TR7 and is obviously an MG 15 inch wheel. It has on it a brand new Avon tyre, but that's probably afew years old now.
Both wheels are free to a good homes. I live in the NW close to Jnct 36 of M6, but do travel to Chester regularly if that helps.
PM me if interested.
Peter
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Sounds a very good approach.
Peter
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Thanks for all the replies. My concers were similar to Neil's - how to drain it if necessary and also how to monitor the level through the filler hole in the steering tube, but I will give it a go.
Peter
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I have just gone through the hassle or removing my steering box to replace the oil seal that had decided to give up the ghost. before I stick the nose cone back on I am contemplating filling the box with Penrite Steering Box Lube instead of the tried and tested Hypoy EP Oil. Has anyone any experience or opinions of this 'semi fluid' grease?
With thanks,
Peter
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Good to know that you are all home safely and that the cars performed very well. Particular praise to Alan who readied his 'new' TR250 for the journey and was confident enough to go for it.
Nice to see that Ken & Chris continue the romantic approach!
Next time it will be snow chains for the grand accent of Stelvio north face. All very scenic. Well done.
Peter
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I have recently acquired a TR7 V8 with an Alley Roll bar fitted, but the rather nice hood cover hasn't been cut to fit. The local trimmer wasn't helpful. Does anyone have a template that I could buy/borrow or even an old cover that I can experiment with? Any help gratefully received.
Peter
TR6 wheels
in For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250
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