gnotte
-
Content Count
117 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by gnotte
-
-
Hello Don, I didn't know that this spring loaded upgrade was so efficient, thank you to let us know.
Having a look at the Revington site you have 3 pictures showing how it is made and to me it doesn't look
too difficult to make one by yourself so sparing £50.
regards, Guy
-
Hi Littlejim,
can I suggest you to buy a complete gearbox all sync with the overdrive, so you will have the switches, and
correct output shaft (mainshaft) and the correct adapter plate.
You can be surprised by the cost of a single gearbox part even a second hand mainshaft will cost more than a full standard gearbox. Keep your gearbox for parts until you are sure the new one is correct.
Outside this full gearbox , you will need the dash switch, and wiring and a relay, the solenoid usually is part of the gearbox. You will also need another speedometer cable.
Guy
-
Hi,
I used Rustbuster (epoxy paint) to brush paint the outside chassis, and sprayed the inside first with Dinitrol RC800 (rust inhibitor) followed by a Dinitrol 3125 cavity wax.
More info on site http://www.rust.co.uk/
You can also paint all suspension/steering engine parts with Rustbuster by adding more thinner.
Guy
-
Hi all,
there is a repair kit you can buy at Frost or Rustbuster ....but it is not cheap and you can reduce the cost buying only the POR 15 epoxy putty which is the major component of the kit.
Have a look at these two related sites :
http://fedora.net/falconaut/tech/steering_wheel.html
http://www.thebugshop.org/bsfqstrg.htm
regards, Guy
-
Hi Mickm,
can I suggest you read / print articles OverdriveA01.pdf and OverdriveA02.pdf at the following address:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/TransRebuild/
they give a working procedure for adjusting solenoid.
regards, Guy
-
Hi,
I put the correct wiring diagram in a previous post submitted on Feb 11th 2006 by Don Elliott and called:
Assembly of Lucas wiper motor.
have a look at this post .
Guy
-
Hi Tim,
there was a very nice article about overdrive on the site Buckeye triumphs but it disappear.
I have a copy of it and can forward it to you, just give me your mail address.
At the end there is a troubleshooting section with everything you need .
Guy
-
Hi Neil,
it could be interesting that you post the possible causes you know.
thanks, Guy
-
Thanks Chris,
What a site !!!!! MGA GURU never seen a so complete site with
a lot of interesting topics for Triumph owners too.
Guy
-
Hi Meno,
this is what I have seen in an ebay object description :
I have added the in-line fuse that appeared in the secondary lighting circuit(parking & dash lights) sometime around TS50,000
Guy
-
Hi Chris,
what is the brand of the silicone you use and do you wait until it is dry before fitting or do you press
everything with the head when the silicon is still wet ?
Guy
-
Hi Adey,
bad luck having such problems when you try to fix with new parts is very frustrating.
What is the brand of your liners, and what is the size ?
I am quite affraid about what happens to you as I boot my set of liners and pistons more then one year ago,
it will not be possible to exchange it, should the same thing arise to me.
I never imagined this could happens and just store them without any control.
I have not see any informations about the distance between the top and the flanged face, how can you say that it is out of .010" is it just by comparing with the others ?
Guy
PS: to the paraffin club, I have been in a shop where they sell heaters and on the box of a heater in was
written in several languages the heater run with paraffin in english and petrol in french, petroleum in german. So, we can close the investigations, and thanks to all folk involved .
-
Brydon, we don't know yet about the Adey's engine but we give him some time to test it by speaking about paraffin...
Don, in Belgium, beer is not in the solvent category but in the lubricant that's why we drink it so much, just
to keep the body off jaming.
But now there is a study to make cars running with beer, with the petrol prices raises it will become cheaper.
Mychael, I will not discuss about the fact that you have the best kangaroo in Australia but about the beer,
you will have to visit us and then you will know.. we have a brewery every square mile and we produce beer as much as the Arab Emirates produce petrol , but not like them, we drink it..
So, back with my paraffin group.
Perhaps I am confused with the fact that sometimes you call the fuel as petrol, in Belgium they are two different products. We call essence = fuel
petrol = ? may be paraffin, it is a clear product used on small eater.
So, if you don't use petrol name for other product then fuel, probably petrol (french) is paraffin and we got it.
Unless Jonglar comes and says your petrol is not my paraffin !!!
-
So Marvmul, have you an idea of what it could be in Belgium ?
-
Alec and Jon,
with your help I can relate paraffin with a belgian french product, it is not kerosene, but it is ethanol
(ethyl alcool) that we commonly call in french: Alcool à brûler.
Thank you, Guy
-
Hi,
thanks all for how to clean water ways infos.
By the way, I have seen that Paraffin is widely used to clean engine in the UK.
For me it was the solid stuff you use to make candle, but I have seen they are a lot of Paraffin product.
I cannot find the exact translation of this cleaning product in french.
Can someone help me or describe me the normal use of this product.
Thanks, Guy
-
Hi Chalky,
I boot mine at TR Shop Link: TR Shop
and take the 60 spokes, more rigid than the original 48 spokes and which can fit 165/15 or 5.90 tyres.
Regards, Guy
-
Hi Adey,
you say that you removed a ton of sludge in the water ways, did you use any product/tool for that and how do you de-rust the area ?
I have to change the liners too and being a little anxious about the way to clean the inside properly.
Regards, Guy
-
Hi Alessandro,
at the first page of the Original Triumph book by Bill Piggott there is a picture of Tr3a seats which looks
very similar with the ones you have.
If you want I can sent you some pictures I have, just give me your email address.
Where are you from in Italy ?
regard, Guy
-
Hi Meno,
the TR3 Instruction book says that for 165/15X you should have 24 Lpsi at front and 32 Lpsi at rear
Regards, Guy
-
Hi Don,
I am happy I could be of some help to you, you help us so often, I use a Nikon coolpix, it is not expensive
and have a nice feature which is macro that give very good results at short distances.
So, enjoy your project Don, it is probably your best medicine.
Bye, Guy
-
Don,
I have a DR2 - 75371D in my garage and will have a lock at the wiring and take some photos to-morrow.
Regards, Guy
Hi Don,
I have sent you several photos of the wiper motor by mail ( corrected the post, it is well a 75371D) .
Hereafter is the wiring diagram I have made, I put it in the post as it could be of interest for someone,
it doesn't appear in any documentation.
Let me know if you receive the 15 pictures, and feel free to come back to me if any pending questions.
Guy
Take a full screen to see the text correctly in the thumbnail's
-
Don,
I have a DR2 - 75371D in my garage and will have a lock at the wiring and take some photos to-morrow.
Regards, Guy
-
Hi Don,
I have two different, push-on type, of them, if you give me the part number stamped on the plate, I can see if I have the same and sent you some picture of the inside/outside.
Guy
reconditioning a steering box
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Hi all,
I agree with you the Mark Macy site is excellent, the only missing topic is the replacement of the worm,
and you can complete the doc with the post I submitted last year (search in the TR2/3/3A forum after worm fitting) the very good answer I got from Les will complete the gap.
regards, Guy
.