gnotte
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Posts posted by gnotte
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Hi all,
I have posted the second part of the gearbox overhaul in my blog at:
http://www.tr3a.be/blog , I highly count on you to participate and give me your advises, your input will be very appreciated.
To comment put the same pseudo as you use in the TR Register forum, the mail address is not necessary unless you need a personal answer.
Thanks.
Guy Notte.
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You must have a super size freezer.
I suppose you can have the same result by pressing the seal rounded between two square plates around 20" x 20".
Guy
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Running oils: Castrol running oil N° 2 and Penrite running oil SAE 20W/50 if you don't know where to buy you can try www.scparts.co.uk .
regards, Guy
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Hi all,
I have posted the first part of the Gearbox overhaul in my blog at:
http://www.tr3a.be/blog , I highly count on you to participate and give me your advises, your input will be very appreciated.
To comment put the same pseudo as you use in the TR Register forum, the mail address is not necessary unless you need a personal answer.
Thanks.
Guy Notte.
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Firing the engine is probably the most stressed moment of the restoration , but what a satisfying feeling.
Compliment Menno.
Guy
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Hi ,
Marvmul thanks for the tips about the way to improve the water pump can you tell me what kind of better seal you can fit in the water pump and where you can buy it ?
thanks, Guy
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Thank you Frank and Menno, and I wish you the best for your restoration too.
Menno, sorry I don't speak dutch and I agree with you that doing the restoration and keeping the website up-to-date is very demanding, but that's so pleasant to share this activity with others that I wouldn't miss it.
Bye, Guy
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Hi Meno,
there are one center bracket (601984) and 2 side brackets (601964) to hold the dashboard, I have a scuttle wood
and will look tomorrow if these brackets are still there.
Bye, Guy
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Hi all,
I am now back on my Tr3a restoration after spending the last 3 years in building a new garage and a home extension.
As the forum is not the most adequate way to relate the rebuild, I have done a website containing what was already performed at http://www.tr3a.be and a blog to relate the current activity at http://www.tr3a.be/blog , I highly count on you to participate and give me your advises, your input will be very appreciated.
To comment put the same pseudo as you use in the TR Register forum, the mail address is not necessary unless you need a personal answer.
Thanks.
Guy Notte.
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Hi all,
I finally got the answer to my question on the Roadster Factory website.
In fact the terms symmetrical/assymetrical apply to the dog teeth.
"There are thirty dog teeth on each gear, and later dog teeth are larger, stronger and more symmetrical than earlier dog teeth. Earlier gears have only eight out of thirty symmetrical dog teeth, while all thirty dog teeth are symmetrical on later gears."
Hope it can be of interest for you too.
Bye, Guy
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Hi all,
I have read this from one of the Roger Williams book
" The syncro hubs differed during the course of the (long) production run.
Earlier boxes were fitted with 'asymmetrical' gears, while the later boxes used 'symmetrical' gears .
The terms apply to the type of synchro hubs fitted to each gearbox ".
can someone explains me what is asymmetrical VS symmetrical hub and how they can been identified.
Thanks, Guy
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Hi Menno, have a look on this post http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index....115&hl=fuel
bye, Guy
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Hi Meno,
many thanks for the wing beading infos, is that the product you are speaking about ?
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?pro...amp;subCatID=47
Bye, Guy
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Hi Flash,
you can have a look here : http://www.teglerizer.com/mgstuff/lucastuning.pdf
to understand the lucas distributor principle.
Bye, Guy
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Great job Meno,
it looks like that only the carbus need to be removed in order to put the body on the frame..
Can I ask you to take pictures and explain me how you fit the wing beading.
Bye, Guy
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Hi Meno,
you also have to consider the size of the tyres you want as 48 spokes are 4j wide so it means 155/15 or 5.60/15 tyres with 60 spokes 41/2 J you can fit 165/15 and with 72 spokes 51/2 J you will fit 185/15. The last one is large but it is a current tyre, so better choice and cheaper.
Concerning the spacers some says they add stress on the suspension parts, I am myself going to use spacers as I like the possibility to fit steel wheels if needed.
I have measured with my wire wheels and you need the 6mm spacers. The problem is that they are very expensive for what they are. So, I am looking for an alternative.
Concerning Tr Shop if you want to order, you better have to use a fax because the response time with email could take a week, an advantage with them is that the shipping price for the wheels is lower .
Bye, Guy
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Hello,
nice informations from viv about the wing beads fitting, I was believing that you should first fix the bead on the wing and then install the wing .
Is this way not recommended or not possible ?
thanks for your advises.
Guy
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Jonlar,
I easily removed my stuck piston using compressed air directly connected to the galiper entry hole, to avoid
the piston poping-up you just have to insert a piece of wood of the correct size between the pistons.
Regards, Guy
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from your TS24528 number you should have the steady post type (#61 not #60 as you mention), you have the earlier type and to remove it you just have to push on the spring and turn the front cup washer 90° in any direction, this will release the pin, beware that only the whasher should be rotated not the pin.
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Hi Keith,
as you are new in the Tr3 mechanical/electrical repair, can I suggest you acquire a Moss catalog which is the bible for
locating parts in the Tr, you can have a hard copy for free the first time you order some parts, or you can download a free copy in pdf format from their site at : https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/TR253-67.aspx
As you are facing an electrical problem, a wiring diagram can be of some help too, here is a site where you can have a
pdf format of the wiring diagram http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf
As you will see, the electrical wiring of the bracking light is very simple, the light is permanently connected to the ground and the other side go to the brake switch which is directly connected to the fuse box.
So, as you have a permanent contact, that means that the switch is always making contact, probably due to rust/dirt or the two wire on the switch are shorted together.So, have a lock in the Moss catalog to see how it looks like and follow
our Don advices.
Regards, Guy
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Thank you to all of you, as always your answers are very adequate.
Cheers, Guy
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Hello all,
when you regrind the crankshaft for a normal road usage engine is it necessary to have it hardened ?
thanks, Guy
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Hi Frank,
Nice restoration, please continue to make us aware of your progress in the forum.
How did you managed to put so much pictures on the forum.
The member limit is 500k and I calculate you put in 1.600K of pictures in this post.
Thank you.
Regards, Guy
TR4A Engine Stand
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
The screws going in the cylinder block are 5/16" UNC, the length will depend of your stand probably 2" to 3", there is no whitworth in TR cars, only UNC and UNF.
Regards, Guy