gnotte
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Posts posted by gnotte
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Hi Mark,
I have one scuttle wood off the car, if you still need additional informations let me know.
Guy
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Thank you Tony and Peter, now I am a bit more confident to drill these holes as a mistake on this part means a new bottom engine replacement.
Regards, Guy
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hello,
you got it Rod they are Deves rings, they were included in a liners & pistons kit, the pistons are labeled County.
Just in case your picture disappear the website with full instructions is www.deves.com
Once again this forum proved his efficiency.
Thank you all for taking care of my problem.
Regards, Guy
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Hello,
I am fitting County rings on piston and have no problem with rings set 1 and 2
But do not see how to fit the third set labeled 5600-D3 and composed of 4 rings: 2 flats one ondulated and another octogonal.
Can someone tell me how to have this set properly assembled on the piston ?
Regards,
Guy Notte
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Thanks Tony but my question was how to drill the holes,I have drawn two red dots on the photos of the cap to show how I imagine the in and out site of the hole will be, is that correct ?
regards, Guy
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Thank you for your fast answer, in fact the red dots are done by me on the pictures I have taken of my cap., here is the figure I received with the kit.
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Hello,
The kit fitting instructions says that " You have to drill 2 extra 3/8" dia. oil drain holes in the bottom of the rear main cap, one each side of the original at a similar angle. This will remove all unecessary pressure from the seal and will not affect you oil pressure or the main bearing lubrication ".
But the figure provided do not shows if the holes have to be parallel to the original hole and in that case it should look like the red dots on the two pictures (notice that the red dot are done by me as a projection for the holes.)
Can someone who had the opportunity to see these holes confirm or invalidate this proposal.
Regards,
Guy Notte
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Hello,
Thank you to Andrew who pm me the coordinates of David who sales the oils seal fuel pump in the UK.
He kindly sent me the correct seal in Belgium, but I don't know how many remains as he told me that someone bought him a full box.
Do not use email to contact him as he has currently some problems with his computer.
Here is the Phone/address of David
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/carljdavies/Bearing%20Contacts.htm
Bye, Guy Notte
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Hello,
Thank you to Andrew who pm me the coordinates of David who sales the oils seal fuel pump in the UK.
He kindly sent me the correct seal in Belgium, but I don't know how many remains as he told me that someone bought him a full box.
Do not use email to contact him as he has currently some problems with his computer.
Here is the Phone/address of David
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/carljdavies/Bearing%20Contacts.htm
Bye, Guy
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Hello,
are there any better or equivalent alternatives to Shellac to seal the rear main bearing cap engine ?
Guy
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Thanks Rhodri and Don,
I heated the ring at 220°C and at the second try it was succesfull.
Using the G-clamp method is really tricky as when you hammer the ring the clamp become loose and goes away and when you introduce the ring it has tendancy to go fully down on one side that make it impossible to introduce the opposite side, so at my last try I fitted a spacer to keep the ring as much parrallel to the flywheel as possible then I maintained the ring with a L shaped iron bar to stabilize the G-clamps when hammering.
Don, my ring is a NOS that I bought in the US and it is probably more difficult to insert than a used one . My car is near of yours as it is TS24900.
Cheers, Guy
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Hello,
to-day I cannot succeed to fit a shrink-on ring gear to the flywheel using the 3 G-clamps method recommended in the service guide.
I heat the ring in an oven at 120°c half an hour and put the flywheel for one hour in the freezer, before to fit the ring I spray some W40 on the flywheel side to ease the process but it was not possible to insert the ring, I retry the full process 3 times, but unsuccessfully.
Now I have some doubt with this method, did someone who successfully fit the ring using this or another way can give me some tips.
Thanks.
Guy Notte
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Hi,
the oil seal is located at the bottom end of the diaphragm axle, it is located under a metal washer that is crimped by 3 recesses in the aluminium bottom center, with a small screwdriver and hammer, carrefully remove the recesses and that will free the washer followed by the seal
Guy
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Hi,
probably yes, but the people who sale them is currently away for 2 weeks, as soon as I can contact him, I will post all the infos .
Cheers, Guy
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Hello Dave and Andrew, did you record the name and phone of the guy who sells these seals @ the Tatton Park classic Shows.
I need it too and would like to contact him.
Thanks.
Guy
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Hello Ondrej,
with 3 AF spanner sizes you can do 95% of the TR3a, they are the 7/16, 1/2 and 9/16 and I suggest you have all the spanner/sockets kind such as combination and open spanners and socket drives of 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 for those 3 sizes.
For the Czech Republic I will have a look at Germans and Italian tools such as Hazed, Beta, Usag.
Regards, Guy
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Many thanks John, I put a few rubber lubricant on the seals instead of SBF and the piston goes in by hand easily.
Cheers, Guy
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Thanks all for your comments, at least I know that it should be an easy fit.
There are some more thread that debates the use of SBF and it was not my intention to reopen the discussion about it, there are people against and other using it for many years without any problems, as I renew all the brake system I think it is the good time to give it a try.
Stuart, you are probably true, pushing the piston through the dust cover is very strong and then it jams against the sealing ring, so, that looks like the seals are too thick.
Nipple and bridge pipe are removed and all the oil ways have been cleaned with compressed air.
Johnny250 and Angelfj did you use a special tool to fit the piston or could you insert it by hand ?
I will reorder a new set of seals.
Guy
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Hello all,
having spent some days cleaning ,derusting, brushing parts, I decided to take a break today and to rebuild the galipers, an easy small job I was thinking...
The cylinder bore was perfectly clean, I trial pushed the piston without the seal to ensure it enter freely in the bore and it did ,I then fit a new sealing ring and new dust cover and lubricate them with silicon brake oil and then try to push the piston through the seals but after 4 hours of frustation I have been unable to fit a single piston.
Is there someone successfull with this task who can give me some tips.
Guy
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Hello,
one should be aware that making electronic circuits working in the range of 5° to 25°C is not difficult, but having the same circuit working reliably from -10° to 50°C is far more critical and so a good shematic with the best quality of components are necessary.
Guy
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Put them in hot water for some minutes will ease the process a lot.
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Ian,
take a Moss parts catalogue on the external gearbox page, record the part number and the quantity, then go to the hardware & consumables page, near the end of the catalogue and from the part number you will know the thread, length and diameter of the screw or bolt you need.
If you haven't a part catalogue there is one online on the Moss site.
Bye, Guy
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Hi,
I have discovered a very interesting topic about doing and fitting your seat cover.
http://xjguy.com/triumph/diy_tr3a_seat_covers.pdf
Enjoy it, Guy
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All the tests I have seen (Practical Classics, Mechanical Cars, System D...) about rust treatment was always win by Dinitrol products, here is a seller in UK http://www.rust.co.uk/dinitrol-products.cfm .
Bye, Guy
Fan woes
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Hi Richard,
please do you know from which car make the shorter fan extension is coming ?
Thanks, Guy