TRbeginner
-
Content Count
134 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by TRbeginner
-
-
The only real way to replace the bracket is to take the gear box cover off then remove the right hand bolt from the gear box rear mount, the new bracket has a captive nut welded to it that takes this bolt.
Stuart.
Stuart,
Understood - will do the job in line with your suggestion. I was trying to avoid the tunnel removal route, but happy to follow guidance from those in the know! Will let you know how I get on - next week probably.
Regards
David
-
Stuart, thanks - I understand the assembly now. Unfortunately on mine, a previous owner has used a rubber strap to attache the gear box hangar to what is left of the original flange attached to the gear box. This flange appears to have fatigued and broken on the 90deg bend. I have no problem trying to fit a new exhaust mounting flange to the rear gear box mount but to do this it would appear I have to drop the gearbox mount and raise the gearbox to access the nut which is holding the remnants of the broken flange if I am fitting the new one at the same point. Is this correct? I cant see another way of accessing the fixing point above the gearbox mount. Hope this description makes sense!
Thanks
David
-
The top system is all TR5 and CP TR6 the intermediate bracket fits on the rear gearbox mounting for "A" type overdrive, this bracket may well be missing from your car. The next one down is for a CR series 6 with a "J" type overdrive hence the different bracket. The lower system is TR250 and has the same "A" type intermediate mount off the gear box as per TR5 early 6.
Stuart.
Stuart
Thanks for explaining. Just a further clarification if you dont mind please....In the Moss top diagram it shows that the intermediate/front pipes are sold as separates, however they appear to be fixed by a welded flange behind the hangar. Would you expect them to be joined or separate (the part nos imply separate which is inconsistent with the diagram)? If separate, would you expect the second pipe to have a hangar (it is not shown).
Regarding the middle diagram (TR6), both pipes are shown separate, identical items, but with no welded hangars,
The reason I am trying to clarify is that I have been offered a stainless system, previously fitted to a TR6 for my TR5 and I am trying to understand if the differences are significant.
Many thanks
David
-
Exhaust system hangers for TR5/6
here is one I wrote earlier....and Pete Taylor illustrated
Cheers
Peter W
Peter,
Thanks - that's the best breakdown I have seen, however it raises a new question. My car is a TR5 PI (CP.....) which according to the diagram should be the top system - tell me if I am wrong please. However there are no hangars or fixing points on my exhaust/body in the intermediate/front pipe area (contra to the top diagram), indicating my system is as per the middle diagram (CR & CF models only!). Looking at the top and middle diagrams, I cant see why one system needs support in the intermediate/front pipe area and the other doesnt. Any thoughts?
Thanks
David
-
Hi David,
Can't offer any guidance on the exhaust issue, but when it comes to radios you might be interested in this . . . http://www.chromelondon.com/
Not inexpensive, as you'll see, but some nice period pieces.
Darren
Darren
I guess this is the easiest way to get what I want - just trying to keep the cost down. They look good appropriate and I may come back to them if nothing shows on Ebay - thanks for the suggestion.
David
-
An ebay search for "vintage car radio" throws up lots of possibilities, it's how I came by my Pye with FM. Here's an example:
Thanks Pete, Im coming round to the view that a used FM conversion (likley from Ebay) may offer me the best value solution closest to my requirements - thanks.
David
-
Regarding the radio, you can get a switch put in the tuner to accept an aux line in (mine's all the way to the left) then just plug your phone or ipod into that. Think cost me £20
Thanks for the idea - have to say I hadnt thought of that so will give it some consideration. Guess you're dependent on 4G reception, which is probably more patchy than FM. Tend to be more of a radio listener in the car so not really interested in MP3 players etc.
-
Hi there
Bit of a mix of topics here!
I'm about to change the silencer on my TR5. The current box has a hole blown in it. Fortunately I was given a new spare mild steel box when I bought the car so am fitting that while I decide whether to undertake a body off repaint and other work, maybe a stainless exhaust. For the current situation can anyone guide me as to the best (original?) clamping method where the mild steel tail pipes joins the middle section of the system eg standard U clamp, single clamp etc and where to buy (if unusual item)?
Also looking to replace the radio and want to stick with a period or period looking set (Radiomobile, Motorola etc), but want FM ideally - does anyone have any experience of the old sets that have been converted to receive FM etc etc? I'm not interested in cassette players.
Thanks
David
-
Hi All
Well, after three years of work and other distractions, I got the '5' back on the road a couple of weeks ago. Along the way your help was invaluable in term sof brakes, rear suspension, drive shafts etc, so many thanks for that. It was off the road longer than anticipated, so, whilst it is now running well, it is not running 'properly'. There is a misfire/popping/degraded performance as you accelerate up through the rev range, until above 2000rpm when the misfire clears and it pulls well.
Prior to putting back on the road, all the ignition components were tested, and replaced where neccessary, including coil, distributor cap, plugs, points, leads. Timing was checked and found to be OK. Compression tested and found to be excellent. Injectors tested and OK (two replaced). Plugs are a healthy brown colour after running. An old Colortune seems to indicate mixture is OK, however fuel consumption is excessive.
My next semi educated guess is that the problem may be related to over fuelling at low revs - this could be why everything smooths out at higher revs when there is more demand. Can anyone confirm whether this sounds reasonable and suggest how I check this - I have no experience of messing around with metering units etc and am somewhat uncertain about diving in!
All other thoughts welcome - I am running out of ideas
Many thanks in anticipation
-
All
Better late than never I hope! Thank you to all who replied to my initial message on this thread re spline damage to the drive shafts. The weight of opinion seems to be in favour of deliberate damage in the past and to replace with Proptech items. I guess you have confirmed my gut feel re the damage - I just didnt want to believe it myself initially, so thanks for that. What I didnt say was that having acquired the car in 2010, taken it off the road in the intervening period to replace suspension bushes and upgrade the brakes and been distracted by work pressures in the meantime so I have had little chance to drive the car. My plan was always to get it on the road for a summer to 'get to know it' before embarking on a body off restoration. So....despite your recommendations to replace the shafts I have recently got the car back on the road with the existing driveshafts which I intend to replace as part of the bigger project. Currently there are no apparent problems - watch this space!
Apologies for the time it has taken to reply as since I started the thread, I have also had to fine time for a total knee replacemen op, which 'kneed'less to say has been a bit of a distraction.
So I'm now back on track to start 2014 with the car taxed, MoTd and back on the road for the shakedown period. The only fly in the ointment is I need to be able to bend my new knee sufficiently to get in the car!
Once again, many thanks for all contributions, all useful and appreciated. Will follow up next year when the new shafts are in place.
Have a great Xmas and 2014
David
-
Guys
Really appreciate your help with this...its been a bit of an eye opener...seems to be a unanimous verdict. Sort of disappointing. I was sceptical when my mate mentioned deliberate damage, but you have all backed him up.
One more question....the other side is in good nick, so can I get away with buying one or do they only come in pairs?
Thanks
D
-
Rob
Thanks for quick reply....you're suggesting that they ARE deliberate rather than caused by mechanical wear/breakage?
-
Hi all
As part of a rear suspension/brakes overhaul, I removed the drive shaft assemblies without problem from the trailing arm and diff housing. The splines on the inner end of one trailing arm were damaged (see image attached) - each spline contains a couple of 'dings' which seem to occur in matching pairs.
I have the following questions :
- Has anyone seen anything similar to this before?
- Is this typical of the damage cause when a drive shaft pulls out when the car is moving? It doesn't look like it is to my (albeit inexperienced) eye.
- A friend of mine (ex TR2/4a professional restorer) suggested that the dings may have be made deliberately (matching pairs) to remove the play on a loose set of splines - any thoughts on this?
- Do I risk further damage by using a file or slipstone to attempt to repair the splines or am I best leaving as they are and refitting, or indeed replacing with new?
Any light shed on this topic would be appreciated.
Thanks
David
- Has anyone seen anything similar to this before?
-
Darren
Thanks for this
You were corect. However when I look at the Moss site, there appear to be no wire clips for the larger boot. Do they not use them?
Also, the reason the problem arose initially was because there were no larger boots fitted when I took ownereship of the car - what youve never had, you never miss! So I was completely oblivious to the them. How neccessary are they?
Thanks again
David
Hi David,
I don't think the large boots need any ties around them. They cannot slip outward as the concertina boots on the splined shaft stop them in that direction, and the shoulder on the inboard part of the driveshaft stops them moving in towards the diff. I expect the reason they're fitted is to stop muck and spray thrown up from the rear wheels from getting on the UJ.
This pic may be helpful, taken during the strip down of my TR6.
Just thought I'd add that I had no problem fitting either of these boots/gaiters. The first time i did them with the driveshafts on the bench, but I had to do the gaiters a second time just before i got the car on the road as the first set perished and split into about five pieces in within 6 months before the car had turned a wheel.
Whether they're necessary or not I guess is a matter of opinion. Personally I think it's certainly a good idea to have the gaiters on the splined joint to keep water and grit out and the grease in. The large inboard joint - probably less important, but I expect it does provide an element of protection to the UJ.
Hope that helps.
Hi David,
I don't think the large boots need any ties around them. They cannot slip outward as the concertina boots on the splined shaft stop them in that direction, and the shoulder on the inboard part of the driveshaft stops them moving in towards the diff. I expect the reason they're fitted is to stop muck and spray thrown up from the rear wheels from getting on the UJ.
This pic may be helpful, taken during the strip down of my TR6.
Just thought I'd add that I had no problem fitting either of these boots/gaiters. The first time i did them with the driveshafts on the bench, but I had to do the gaiters a second time just before i got the car on the road as the first set perished and split into about five pieces in within 6 months before the car had turned a wheel.
Whether they're necessary or not I guess is a matter of opinion. Personally I think it's certainly a good idea to have the gaiters on the splined joint to keep water and grit out and the grease in. The large inboard joint - probably less important, but I expect it does provide an element of protection to the UJ.
Hope that helps.
Darren
Thanks for all this experience and information you have passed on. I'll let you know where I get to
David
-
Hi David,
Sounds like you've got the boot that goes over the inboard universal joint (item 14 in this picture http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=12293). What you need is item 15 for the splined joint.
Regards,
Darren
Darren
Thanks for this
You were corect. However when I look at the Moss site, there appear to be no wire clips for the larger boot. Do they not use them?
Also, the reason the problem arose initially was because there were no larger boots fitted when I took ownereship of the car - what youve never had, you never miss! So I was completely oblivious to the them. How neccessary are they?
Thanks again
David
-
Guys
Firstly, thanks to all of you for the help. Not just for the answers to my (possibly naïve) questions but the additional advice.
I guess I was mislead by not having the covers fitted in the first place. Are they recommended?
The reason I wanted to replace the gaiters is that one of them is badly split - however Roger indicates they are not really necessary?
Sounds like fitting them is the Devils own job, however Im here to learn and do the job properly so I'll probably give it a go - wont be for a couple of weeks though. Will let you know how I get on.
Thanks again
David
-
Hi All
Just putting the back end together on my 5 and intended to replace the rubber gaiters on the splined drive shafts. I ordered some from a well known parts retailer but unfortunately had problems - the gaiters were 'plain' in design rather than convoluted/concertina style and bear a close resemblance to a sink plunger without the handle (5in dia at wide end, narrow end a good fit for the splined shaft tho).
The retailer insists that this is the correct part....am I missing something glaringly obvious? If not, please can anyone suggest a supplier that will provide something closer to the original part in design terms ie convoluted shape, correct diameter etc. I would have thought a 'standard', even if remanufactured part would be available...but where from?
Many thanks
David
-
A successful conclusion using 14mm threaded rod and a couple of nuts to ease the 'ears' evenly apart as per Tony's suggestion, ,then tapping with a hide hammer to make final adjustments. Definitely a tip worth remembering.
Thanks to all who replied.
D
-
Neil
I was joking about the big hammer - dont want any chassis damage!
David
-
Thanks all for the advice and tips.
I think Im going to try in reverse order of force - grease, bolt, adjustable spanners and then big hammer - depending on degrees of success. Will report back shortly!
David
-
Hi all
I have recently fitted Superpro bushes to the trailing arms on my '5'. I'm now trying to refit the arms into their brackets which are already in place on the car. With the bushes being new/harder and possibly a few thou wider than the originals I am having trouble relocating them into the brackets. Is there a knack to this or is it a question of controlled forced (I am conscious that that the arms are aluminium and wont stand significant asymetric shock forces - maybe Im being TOO gentle!)?
Any thoughts welcome eg is it easier/possible to fit the arms to the brackets off the car and then offer the complete assembly up to the chassis to locate with the trailing arm bolts?
Thanks all
David
-
Did you ever sell this?
-
Chris
I was in a similar position last summer. I'd wanted a TR4A since two friends at university years ago each acquired one. I started looking seriously last summer after a chance meeting with a TR enthusiast at a local Show, and soon convinced myself that a TR5 was the way to go.
Id concur with comments below - I looked at some examples that were on the face of it OK, but underneath were a mess and would have cost a fortune in terms of repairing poorly executed body/chassis restoration work. In the end I decided to look for an example with original and solid (if cosmetically untidy) body and chassis at the expensive of not so good mechanical bits. Some of my decision making was also based on 'gut' feel about the owners too - this filtered out a couple of 'good/very good' examples (their words not mine) that were maybe not so good underneath the good presentation.
Eventually I bought a car that I have been very happy with - a fair price for a genuine car that needs work, is usable, but where nothing is 'hidden'. I also had lots of good advice from other TR Register members - what a great group of people.
I guess that the approach depends on your skill set and budget - my approach has worked for me.
Good luck.
Hi friends
Have recntly bought a TR6 as the 6 has always been my first love? But, as I have studied the Triumph marque further the TR5 is, in my opinion, probably the most desireable TR.
I am going yo veiw a TR5 on Monday and i know the guy has owned it for 30 years. I am 100% sure it has not been restored but am informed that it is MOT'd and running etc... I saw the car for the first time about 2 years ago and was very interested but the owner was not intersted in selling at the time. I have kept in touch via email and it appears that the time for a sale could well be here
I want to veiw with my head and not my heart so am looking for guidnace on how to approach the veiwing. I have read that when I meet the seller I should not veiw the car straight away but look at the history file etc? Should I go withn a structrued list of questions? If so, what should they be and in what order??
After the veiwing I want to be in a position where I can walk away to consider everything... Should I get a "Heritage Check"? Any suggestions would be most welcome.
Any advice would be greatly appreciatted
Thanks
Chris
-
Chris
Forget the history file - check the car thoroughly especially the inner body and the chassis - if this is not right then you will spend more than the purchase price of the car to put it right - simples....
If you're not sure, take someone (or pay someone) to check it out for you properly - as it is likely to be a rather expensive purchase the cost of a proper inspection (£250 ish) could save you an awful lot of grief and hopefully highlight any potential money pits - mechanical work can be fixed relatively easily but major bodywork is costly!
TR5's rust just as bad as any other Triumph's so beware! They can be a nightmare!
Don't let your heart rule your head..!
Be Warned - I have inspected lots of TR5's from £3k to £40k and some of the more expensive ones have been badly restored by amateurs (and professionals) - The market tends to dictate the prices but this means people with shabby cars still think their cars are worth the same as properly prepared professionally restored cars - they are not!
Remember - if it looks to good to be true - it normally is...!
Sorry for sounding a bit negative but "Buyer Beware"
Regards Mark
Exhaust clamps & radios
in TR5/250 Forum
Posted
Stuart
I said Id get back to you when the job was complete - slightly delayed starting but completed the job this morning. The replacement of the bracket was straightforward and the fitting of the new stainless system from the TR Shop went very well. Thanks for your pointers early on - it could have been a more painful experience.
All the best
David