Osbert
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Posts posted by Osbert
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I have a fairly standard 4a, it has a non standard inlet manifold, standard Su's and from what I understand a standard engine. I have had the suspension all uprated with adjustable shock conversion and a slightly stiffer springs. I have been thinking of just trying to uprate it a bit in the "BHP department". Should I go for a couple of webers, if so what sort, a livelier cam perhaps? If I am doing this do I need to update the diff and drive shafts? And maybe disc brakes on the back. I'm not looking for rally performance just making it a bit livelier. Suggestions welcome.
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Thanks this is most helpful, I have received the one that looks like m68890 but the one on the car at the moment looks more like mb108f.
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I ordered GAM 215a, looks like a late BL one
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I have a door mounted mirror on my 4a. Quite an elegant thin rectangular ish shaped one. Anyway managed to clunk my lawn mower against it the other day and cracked the glass. Been looking for a replacement and settled on one from Moss.
It arrived today and is described on the invoice as a Mini one!?! no mention of this by the way when I ordered on line, also no mention of this in the catalogue. the part i oredered is and i don't think it will look correct.
Can anyone recommend the correct period mirror? Please send me a part number or link and I will be very thankful.
Regards
Chris
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A few years ago my father made some walnut knobs and we sold them for help for heroes on the forum . . .Made bout 250 quid. If you send me your knob, so to speak, I'll get the old chap to give it the once over. The results will be very good, he will sand it, coat and polish it. You will be left with a very shiny knob that will match the walnut dash. We will happily do this free of charge. Pm me and I will give you the details of where to send it. Regards Osbert
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Apparently, according to the article...... " you buy a TR because you drink real ale, smoke a pipe and want to add hairs to your chest perhaps compensating for the one's falling out up top" ........ mmmmm! .....Btw I def don't smoke a pipe!!
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Check it out, they are doing a weekly article on classic cars ...... This week it's the "macho" TR6!
Cheers
Chris
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Perfect! Thanks v much
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I have recently purchased a set of 4 bonnet buffer wedges to put on my 4a. I already have two (1 on each wing) and they are situation about 8 inches along the wing from the A post. My question is are the original ones in the correct position and where do the other two go?
Cheers
Chris
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Wow that was magic. Good quality picture too btw.
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My tr4a has just developed a high pitched "budgie" tweet noise, jjust as I depress and release the clutch. It only happens for about the first and last inch of the pedal depression and release. It also does it when gear is in neutral. Any ideas what cause might be.
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Roger
Thanks for the advice. I think i'll let the pro's sort, my days of tinkering are over, a trip tp the local TR specialist I suspect.
cheers
Chris
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My near side door was shutting but would not open without a gentle push on the door to release the catch. The chaps i use to do the repairs said he thought it might be the locking mechanism. I have just had one delivered from TR Shop(great service by the way)and I have fitted it myself.(this is quite an achievement for me) Unfortunately I was not been able to get the door to close properly so I began adjusting the retaining catch but no matter where I put it the door would not shut properly.
Then i thought lets unscrew the retaining catch to have a look and as I did it I was surprised to find that the back plate has fell down inside the panel presumably into the sill. Ouch!!... How on earth do i manage to retrieve this part and put it back on the car as it appears to be closed off? Surely they didn't fit this catch and then build the car around it? Is there access under the car?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Chris
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I asked pretty much the same question 2 days ago on the TR4 forum. Much pricier quote for mine though. I got a quote from Derby Plating but they come recommended and are regarded as very high quality. There seem to be advantages in both chrome and stainless. I guess if you want authenticity and easy shineyou go chrome , trouble free and longevity then stainless may be the best option.
Cheers
Osbert
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I was thinking of getting the bumpers on my TR4A rechromed. I got a quote and it is circa £850 to do a "top quality" job. I have looked at on line prices for new front/back bumpers and overriders and for chrome ones I am prob looking at £1000 all in. Then I found stainless ones which are much cheaper.
My question is what are the pro's and cons of stainless as opposed to chrome?
Cheers
Osbert
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thanks all, good to know it is right and proper and great to know the history behind this.
Cheers
Osbert
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I am new to TR ownership but noticed the ammeter on my '66 TR4a was a Lucas one, whilst all the other dials are Jaeger. I thought that perhaps it had been replaced over the years and then never paid it anymore attention, until yesterday when i was watching a TV prog on Discovery Shed called "Classic Car Club" (worth a watch by the way, apart from the rather over the top Garth from Waynes World lookalike). Anyway on the show they featured a TR4 which had the same dials, all Jaeger apart from the ammeter which was Lucas..
My question is
Have all TR4's and A's got Lucas ammeters or were the Jaeger ones dodgy and got replaced by Lucas?
cheers
Osbert
Bumpers
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Bought a set for my 4a, arrived within a week, spoke to the owner who is from Birmingham. Everything was good. Interestingly they do tarnish on the rear, presumably from exhaust gases, but rather pleasingly a bit of metal polish brings them back beautifully.