matthewpetzold
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Posts posted by matthewpetzold
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I've seen and followed the advice of so many queries on this forum relating to starting difficulties with the PI engine that I thought it worth posting my most recent experience on the subject.
After years (yes, years) of apprehension before every cold start, I turned to the only item on the car related to the starting procedure that I had not previously changed - the battery and hey presto, the problem was solved in a trice.
To be clear, the battery had been replaced a while ago, but I had paid no particular regard to its performance characteristics, just so long as it was the right size and "looked right" under the bonnet. It was always capable of turning the engine over so never occurred to me that there might be a problem.
The moment of realisation arrived at Goodwood's recent 73rd Members Meeting when I went to leave at the end of the day and despite repeated attempts the engine would not start and the battery eventually died. Luckily a friend had a jump start power pack on board which he had recently fully charged. We applied this to the problem and the engine fired first time.
I immediately researched the issue and discovered that the jump start in question had a cold start rating of some 500 CCA (cranking amps I believe) - next stop was batteries, and mine turned out to be rated at 265 CCA - not great. It turned the engine over well enough, but did it have enough oomph to drive the fuel pump properly as well ? I plumped for a LUCAS replacement, their top of the range battery is called FUSION, and the one which will fit a TR5 or 6 is the LF096 model. It costs £140 but more importantly has a cold start rating of 760 CCA - bingo, my car now starts every time on the button, it is hard to exaggerate the difference this makes to the whole experience of driving it ! - I know that £140 is quite a lot of money for a battery but in the scheme of things and considering what else I have spent in my attempts to cure the problem it is well worth it.
I presume the issue with the PI engine is compounded by the need for the fuel pump to be able to draw sufficient current to provide the necessary fuel pressure to enable the engine to fire. A lesser battery may appear to be spinning the engine well enough but is this at the expense of the fuel pump's requirements - I'm no technical expert, but this explanation seems to make sense to me.
Please note that the battery recommended LUCAS LF096 has terminals the wrong way round for a TR (like 95% of today's batteries), but will fit easily enough with the terminals to the rear next to the bulkhead, the battery leads are long enough for this (well, mine were). It is also light (and therefore non original) in colour - easily remedied by a couple of coats of satin black before installation, together with one of those LUCAS battery stickers sold by Moss.
Hope this is of some use to somebody.
Matthew
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What fuel pump system are you using ? My 5 has Bosch pump and ran on persistently. I tried everything even suspecting the pump relay which I changed to no effect. I then tried removing the relay from the circuit and bingo, immediate and total cure, no more running on. No one has been able to explain to me why this should be, maybe both relays were faulty but unlikely.
Anyway if you have a relay in the fuel pump circuit, worth a try to isolate it.
Matthew
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I don't think it will be the voltage regulator as, like Ian, my fuel gauge operates correctly. The temp gauge is also behaving as expected in that it shows increased temperature when car is stationary, moving slowly in low gear and/or in hot weather, when coolant temperature will be rising. It is just the extent of the movement in the indicated temperature that is annoying. The thermostat which controls the electric fan does not cut in even when temp gauge in the red, so if we assume the kenlowe thermostat is correct (a big if I know) then the gauge reading must be wrong. The engine continues to run normally even after long periods of idling in traffic, but I don't find the gauge reading very reassuring..
Conrad - thanks for the offer of an alternative sender which I will happily accept - please let me know how I can make contact directly with you - I know there is something called a PM but don't know how that works !! - afraid I'm a bit new to this game (TR Forum, not TRs !)
thanks
Matthew
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My TR5 Engine runs at "normal" temperature (i.e. in centre of dial) in all regular conditions, but increases at the slightest sight of traffic jams, especially so in warm weather, and will eventually reach the stop at the far right hand end of the gauge which is, to say the least, slightly alarming. However, engine continues to run normally, and electric fan (Kenlowe) does not cut in. Cooling system condition is first class, new radiator, hoses and so on, no leaks or loss of coolant. I have had the temperature tested in situ when hot and been advised that there is no problem with cooling, so must be something to do with gauge or sender.
I first tried an alternate gauge which displayed exactly the same reading, and then a new sender - from Rimmers GTR108 - this resulted in an even higher reading even in "normal" conditions.
I have been advised that the senders currently supplied are made in the Far East and may be inaccurate, but that it might be possible to obtain an alternative original type (Smiths ?) which would be more accurate.
Can anybody shed any light on the problem, or advise me where I might be able to find a Smiths sender unit ?
Many thanks
Matthew
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Thanks for all the tips on this - I will try repolishing and the Mini sill strip and see what turns out best
Matthew
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I have had two Karchers, both of which proved to have limited life. Now using a STIHL RE128 Plus - this is more expensive at £200+ but has so far been as good as gold, and being STIHL I would expect it to go on and on. It is electric just like Karchers, though most STIHL products are petrol of course. I believe they may do other washers but not sure whether mine is "entry level" or not.
Matthew
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Another question on Surrey Tops - the chrome or stainless steel trim piece fitted to the rear of my roof section is in fairly poor condition. My understanding is these are not available new, and I'm guessing that looking for good second hand is probably a lost cause. Does anybody have any suggestions of a suitable alternative to use, or any experience of resuscitating an elderly original ?
Be grateful for any thoughts
Thanks
Matthew
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Thanks Conrad, all fitted now, and plenty of clearance as you said. Used bolts for the front fixings rather than the recommended studs, seemed simpler to do it this way.
Cheers
Matthew
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Sorry to raise this topic again. When I remove the hood frame from my TR5, I find that there are 5 captive nuts below the deck panel the same thread size as the studs on the rear screen frame. What is the standard procedure for dealing with these nuts ? If I simply drill out the threads, will the studs on the frame be long enough to fix through these nuts, or do the nuts have to be removed completely ?
Thanks in advance for help on this
Matthew
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Has anybody out there got an unused Windscreen Frame to Scuttle Sealing Rubber (part number 650130) for a TR4/TR5/TR6 that they can sell me ? It seems that this particular item is out of stock in all the usual places (I have tried Moss, TR Shop, Rimmers, Revington, TRGB) and there appears to be some delay in resupplying.
Hoping to repatriate the windscreen with the car next week so be very grateful if someone could help me out, or I will be forced to use the old one.
Thanks in anticipation !
Matthew
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Thanks for all the advice on this.
To adjust windscreen rake, I presume in theory it's possible to slacken off the fastenings on the support brackets behind the dash and push / pull the frame as required ?
Matthew
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I am planning to install a Surrey Hard Top (from a TR4 I believe) to my TR5 which is currently configured as a soft top car, and there are a few questions I'm sure someone out there will have the answers to.
TR4 rear screen has seven studs underneath. I presume the central five will line up with the soft top mounting points on the TR5 deck - do I remove the outer two studs before fitment, or does the deck have to be drilled for these ?
I presume also there must be some form of fixing on the front edge each side once I've removed the B Post capping pieces - how exactly does that work ?
Will the screen fit onto the TR5 deck as is, or do the soft top poppers (three each side) have to be removed first to give enough clearance ?
I know the windscreen capping must be changed - how should I provide access for the roof bolts through the frame surround ? Is there an existing hole simply covered with trim on the soft top version ?
Be very grateful for someone's knowledge on all of this before I proceed with this project
Many thanks
Matthew Petzold
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Many thanks for the helpful comments. I will revert to standard springs and see how we get on.
Matthew
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My TR5 runs on Revington uprated springs (400ib/in front and 450 rear)and AVO adjustable shock absorbers all round, and suspension is fully polybushed. However, even with dampers at their softest setting, whilst the handling is excellent and very precise, the ride is rather too hard for my liking, especially on our wonderful local country roads ! My inclination to improve comfort is to switch back to standard springs - does anybody out there agree or have a better idea ? Be grateful for any tips - thanks, Matthew
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The dark brown primer was a standard GKN Sankey as opposed to Triumph finish.
5" rims certainly existed, but were uncommon and perhaps fitted only to very late TR5s and possibly some early 6s. Ex-dealer parts books sometimes have hand written annotations relating to rim sizes, as evidently confusion could occur with 4A, 5 and 6 alike.
Cheers
Alec
So Alec, so would the "correct" finish for a TR5 be silver, or the brown primer finish as described by Richard earlier ?
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Hi all,
as far as I learned the 5 should have 5" wheels and the early 6 should have 5.5" wheels.
Best regards
Sugar
Not my understanding - I believe all TR5/TR250s had 4.5" wheels, and TR6s 5.5". I suppose it's possible that the switch from 4.5" to 5.5" occurred before the change of model as they are definitely interchangeable, and tyre size the same. I do not believe there was ever a 5.0" wheel used as original equipment
Rgds
Matthew
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Hi Matthew,
I obtained a complete set of steel wheels from a one owner TR5 - he converted the car to wires very soon after purchasing the car.
All the wheels are stamped Sankey 4.5J x 15H in the base of the rim well and finished in a dark primer all over.
I assumed the same as you, as they were to be covered by the Rostyle trim that is why they were left in a primer finish.
Regards, Richard
Hi Matthew,
I obtained a complete set of steel wheels from a one owner TR5 - he converted the car to wires very soon after purchasing the car.
All the wheels are stamped Sankey 4.5J x 15H in the base of the rim well and finished in a dark primer all over.
I assumed the same as you, as they were to be covered by the Rostyle trim that is why they were left in a primer finish.
Regards, Richard
Hi Richard - so is the colour of the dark primer finish the same as or similar to the brown primer that Triumph / Leyland body parts were supplied in ?
Rgds
Matthew
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I am planning to re-commission a set of original 4.5" TR5/TR250 wheels. Like most second hand wheels, they have been painted at some time and are various shades of silver, although the inner rim surface and the rear of one wheel are more of a brown primer colour. Does anybody know what colour these rims would have been ex-factory ? My inclination is to assume that silver would be correct but since the entire rim would have been "unseen" once the correct wheel trims were in place, I suppose it is possible that Triumph might have left them effectively unpainted. Any advice gratefully received, thanks, Matthew
TR5/250 original steering wheel on ebay
in TR5/250 Forum
Posted
Hi All - I currently have two spare TR5 / TR250 steering wheels listed on the TR Register Bought & Sold website. They both have original centre pads with the "acorn" retaining nuts mentioned above.
I also have a remade centre pad listed. This is the same as the one shown on the eBay steering wheel listing. Construction material is different from original and the rear is fitted with three screw threads rather than the studs of the original item. Having said that, none of these differences is visible from the front and the item itself is a very good and well made copy - at least as well made as the original item !! I recall these being listed by Moss some years ago - the item listed today 812651PAD is only the outer vinyl covering that you fit yourself.
Happy to consider offers on any of these items if you need them
Matthew