Nick
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Posts posted by Nick
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Hi Nick
I have sent you PM re the Diff.
Cheers
Mike.
Mike you have PM...
Cheers,
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Not a original crown wheel & pinion?
Not sure Neil.... i've had the car for 4 years and got various bills with it and no mention of diff work but who knows really?
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Not a original crown wheel & pinion?
oops!
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Stan,
Ah... i get that now about the drain/fill plug.... thanks.
The garage were delivering the car back home at the time of the failure so i wasn't in charge at the time,,, but no bang reported and i know by the fact that it's only a 50yd drive that they were probably doing 10mph max!.
I did wonder about the weakest link theory though.... insides of the diff probably mush.....!
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Roger,
Pinion is still in the diff so difficult for side elevation but i'll see what i can do over the weekend...
Cheers,
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Thanks Ivor,
The broken threaded end of the pinion is still in the nut... complete with the split pin!
The diff casing seems to have been modified at some point as there is filling /level plug tapped into the side ... i checked it a few months ago and there seemed to be a good quantity of some good clear stuff inside so i'm at a loss to kow what has occurred?
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Hi guys,
The good news is that the TR passed its MOT with flying colours....
The bad news is that 50 yards from the garage on the way back the diff locked and has sheared the pinion just before the thread.... wierd as was running silently and perfectly 'til then.
But there we go.... pleasures of TR'ing i guess.....anyone got a decent diff for sale?
Cheers,
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The bigget toughest you can get - just had one go at over 7k. And this was an uprated one for racing! Just beef it all up till it stops breaking or other bits do
Cheers for that...
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4-5 hours labour and £30 ish materials
hth
Tom
Thanks Tom...
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Hi guys,
Whilst looking a bit further into rear end noises i have noticed that my front right diff mounting pin has come loose and the bracket is broken ....others look ok at the moment...
Welding is completely beyond my skill level so the question is whether to remove the diff, drive shafts etc myself and wheel the car 50yds to the local garage for a repair or to drive the whole thing carefully to a TR specialist and let them do the whole thing.
I will want all the mounts strengthening/boxing as usual.... anyone any thoughts and roughly what should the repair cost at a specialist... assuming the chassis is basically sound which i believe it is?
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If you are going to the international,John Sykes of TR Bitz sells Hardy Spicer uni joints at a very good price(at least he did two years ago at the international)Gkn branded are also very good.Have a look inside the cups to see the thickness of the needle rollers.
Good Luck,
Looking forward to going this afternoon as I missed last years due to a health problem.Only missed about three since 1985(sad or what!)
Regards Harry TR5 Nutter:lol:
Thanks Harry,
Can't make the international i'm afraid
Will check out TR Bitz.
Enloy the weekend...
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Hi guys,
I need to replace an inner driveshaft UJ...
There seem to be a lot of greaseable ones out there ranging from £15 to £35 (for a "Heavy Duty Hardy Spicer unit" from Moss)
Tempted to go for the more expensive option... anyone got any thoughts or recommendations?
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Dear Nick,
Fitting the roll pin(s) is pretty straight-forward, I just used my Power Drill and a nice sharp 6 mm dia twist drill. This is how I did it, but forgive me if I am telling "Grandma how to suck eggs" :-
• Assemble the cross shaft, the release fork and the taper pin. Make sure the taper pin is a snug fit in its tapered hole and everything is lined up nicely. I used a touch of grinding in paste to bed things down, but be careful - it is very easy to overdo this and end up with a scrap taper pin!
• Locate the roll pin hole so it is possible for a future owner to remove the roll pin if ever necessary.
• With everything securely clamped, drill the assembly for the roll pin, making sure the hole passes through the shaft centre line. Don't forget the eye protection!
• Dismantle the assembly and refit inside the gearbox/clutch housing
• Fit/tap in the roll pin (2 in my case). They will probably be a tight fit and you might have to grind a larger lead- in chamfer on the pin to get it started in the hole.
• For extra strength, I fitted a 3.5 mm dia roll pin inside the 6mm pin.
The bill for all the bits: new shaft, taper pin, roll pins, foam strip, a new clutch plate, gaskets, gearbox oil seal, spigot bush, spring washers, prop shaft nuts, gearbox oil, etc etc and any other bits it is wise to replace while the gearbox is out, came to about £180.
Minimum ordering means I have loads of roll pins left so if you, or any other member want a few, let me know.
Regards,
John
Cheers John,
Might take you up on the offer of the split pins...
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Hi Folks,
The normal belt and braces mod for the taper pin is to fit one or more roll pins as pointed out above.
However, how about this for an alternative that leaves the cross shaft untouched.
Locate where the top of the taper pin is in the fork. Drill&Tap holes forward and aft of the taper (just below the top of the taper.
Insert 2 grub screws one fore & one aft to bite against the taper pin thus stopping it flexing.
There are more complicated ways but the above is simple.
Roger
Thanks Roger... interesting alternative...
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Dear Nick,
You might be interested in my experience of the "clutch not disengaging properly" problem.
Soon after buying my TR6, I had to have a new starter ring fitted and I took the opportunity to have the gearbox overhauled and have an overdrive fitted. I overhauled the clutch myself, doing all the usual recommended improvements including fitting a new tapered pin. Much to my annoyance, some 4 years/8000 miles later, my clutch started getting "sticky" and making a strange creaking noise when I depressed the clutch pedal. Gear changing became more and more difficult and the slave piston was alarmingly near the end of the cylinder. Curiously, the clutch was very smooth when I released the pedal to re-engage the drive so the car was still drivable. Eventually I bit on the bullet and removed the gearbox to see what was going on.
The cause of the problem was the classic broken tapered pin. I used the "drilled hole- punch" method to remove the remnants of the pin and found the cross shaft had been damaged. The fracture in the tapered pin was located 5 mm from the threaded section and appears to me to be a bending stress failure. A simple calculation based on the force needed to operate a Laycock clutch – Buckeye TR250/TR6 Clutch Release Measurements – shows the tapered pin to be highly stressed at this point.
I spoke to the usual suppliers to try and source a double shear taper pin assembly but without success. I suspect these may no longer be available. Instead, I purchased a new"up-rated" taper pin and a new cross shaft from Moss. Apart from possibly the material of construction, the pin arrangement is identical to the failed pin. After carefully fitting the new tapered pin in the new cross shaft, alongside I fitted two BS 1760 – CS70, 6 mm dia. spring steel roll pins with 3.5 mm dia. spring steel roll pins fitted inside them. Slight overkill as the roll pins alone should have a factor of safety of at least 15.
600 miles further on, everything seems to be OK. If the clutch fails again, I will definitely eat my hat!
Finally, three other points:-
1. I used the expanding Compriband foam seal strip for the gearbox cover as recommended by Jules, Forum Topic "Sealing gearbox cover to floor"# 5, 18/2/10. Very easy to use and seems to be very effective.
2. When reinstalling the gearbox and overdrive, I removed the steering wheel and suspended the gearbox with a short rope sling supported from a steel bar resting on an axle stand and a screw scissor jack, both sat inside on the car floor. This made manoeuvring and lining up the gearbox an easy single handed 20 minute job! An axle stand was positioned underneath the gearbox just in case.
3. One thing I am surprised about is the amount of wear seen on the pressure plate spring fingers. This is the problem discussed on "Buckeye TR250/TR6 Clutch Release Bearing Woes". I am still wondering what to do about it, if anything. I would be interested in any members' thoughts on this matter.
Best wishes,
John
Thanks for that John,
Great detail in the post...
I'm hoping the temporary fix will last me until some wet weekends in the autumn when the 'box" is coming out to see what's occurring...
Any more info on the fitting of the roll pins? Do you just drill through the fork and the shaft at some appropriate point and knock them in?
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I fitted the Revington adjustable master pushrod, and changed to the 0.75" master at the same time. As Roger says, more movement - 15% to be imprecise - but the clutch is not heavy, and disengages with minimal down-pedal.
Two years / 6,000 miles ago now.
I think this is a worthwhile mod, one can adjust any backlash out of the system.
However, agree it may not help for long if used as a sticking plaster on some lurking problem.
Ivor
Ivor,
Agree completely with ypur comments here.
I would be interested to hear how you arrived at your "imprecise" 15% calculation?
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Are you aware that replacing your .75 cylinder with a .75 will make the pedal heavier.
I eliminated all the play in the clevises and pins etc on my 1970 CP and changed the .75 cylinder for a .70.
Result---- clutch now works perfectly with standard linkage and a much lighter pedal.
Hope this is of some help
John
Yes thanks John...i have heard about the heavier pedal issue, will be interesting to feel what the difference is..
.75's are £50 cheaper... so enough money left over to buy some weights to build up the left leg if neccessary
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Hi Nick,Beware of your tempory fix as I did the same as you and unfortunatly I came home on the back of an AA truck.
Barry.
Hi Barry,
Thanks.. i'm being very cautious at the moment and not straying far from home.
Did you just replace the spring on yours or perhaps the whole cylinder... if the latter did you go for .70 or .75... just wondering?
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I have been following this with interest as I have a very similar problem on my 7. I have been putting off pulling the gearbox for about two months! What is the best way to check for crank thrust washer/bearing problems?
Allen.
I checked mine visually by first trying to lever the crank backwards with a bar on the pulley and then just watching for any movement on the pulley whilst an able assistant depressed the cluch pedal... fortunately nothing to see so at least the thrust washers hadn't dropped out.... would have been obvious movement. To measure properly you need to set up a DTI gauge on the pulley... never done it myself but sure i'm sure i've seen pictures or read something about it on the forum.
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I have a simular thing happening on my saloon. I can put it in gear when the engine is not running. When the engine is running no chance. The garage mann has just come down with his trailer and picked it up. I have movement from the slave so we are thinking the worse i.e. the strengthened pin holding the fork in place has broken. He said he will check firstly with his endescope. At least it means he will not be taking the gearbox off without a reason. Don't forget the G/B on the saloon has to be dropped down. A lot of work.
Thanks Peter,
Endoscope sound a good idea... wonder if you can get it on the NHS...
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Before you start to rip out the gearbox check that the master cylinder is giving you a full stroke as I had a similar problem and it was the spring inside the cylinder,it had broken in half.
Barry
Thanks Barry,
Good call.. will check that out.
Regards,
Nick
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Hi guys,
Thanks for all your thoughts and advice here.
Just as an update... i know must be only a temporary fix but I have at least got the car running again by fitting one of the Revington adjustable master cylinder push rods. I know there ae differing opinions here about this "fix" but i have to say that whilst recognising the fact that there must be some underlying cause to need this in the first place it has (for minimal cost and effort) put the car back on the road whilst i think about the next step. Clutch does work fine now (at the moment) in all respects....
Reckon i'll replace the .70 master with a new .75 (with standard push rod) when i'm next tinkering to eliminate that as a possibility.
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Roger,
Good thought... tried that and no play evident... can even feel resistance and spring back from the plate.
Wonder if the fork can move on the shaft but still remain solid?
TR6 Differential
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Thanks Neil.... appreciate that