John Thornton
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Posts posted by John Thornton
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Hi Alan, I am not changing to aluminium just going for a new standard radiator. The one fitted to the car has sprung a leak in the core and a couple of years ago I had to make rapid repair to the seam where the neck connects to the header, this involved a section of copper pipe and solder but doesn't look all that good. I do have another rad with a good looking header but the core is split in a few places and the brackets have rusted through at the bottom. My original plan was to use the header off the spare and the brackets off the rad in the car with a new core but that was going to cost too much and take Ruby off the road for too long, hence a new rad.
I do want to keep the crank hole as my spare engine has the bobbin and wide belt setup and I also have a starting handle and guide, Also, I don't live too far away from A&E so sprained thumb/wrist should be manageable.
Anyway I have now ordered a new rad from Moss as there is some discount currently and I have worked on 'you get what you pay for'.
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I am replacing my long neck radiator (with crank hole) and wondered if anyone has used the SC PARTS products, are they ok?
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I need to fit a new radiator to my 1962 TR4 and was wondering if any of you guys have tried the long neck radiators with starter hole being sold by SC Parts, they are cheaper than Moss and Rimmer but are they ok?
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Thanks Roger.
Regards
John.
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I need to replace the front brake disks on my 1962 TR4 and wonder if there is any advantage in using cross drilled and groves, geomet finished or just standard disks for road use car? I am also thinking of using green stuff brake pads and possibly matching these with green stuff brake shoes on the rear drums. Can anyone offer some advice?
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I had the same problem but it was the Rev counter in my case. Once the noise started it continued until I turned the engine off. I disconnected the cable on the back of the Rev counter and tied it up behind the dash clear of all cables etc. before taking the car for a test drive, this eliminated the speedo from consideration as the noise did not reoccur. Eventually solved the problem with a few drops of light oil in the Rev counter, around the cable entry moving parts.
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Thank you for the advice and interest in this obscure subject.
Having an autumn break in the Lake District this week (autumn colours and early morning sunlight is fantastic) but before I set off I purchased a starting handle, when I get back home I will measure the car and the handle. Fingers crossed
I will let you know what I find out!
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Can anyone let me know the length of a TR4 starting handle?
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Thanks for all of the information, it looks as if the gauges are as Alan and Roger say so I will take the dash off (wooden) and investigate further.
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My 1962 TR4 has domed glass instruments but apparently no instrument lights other than for the speedo and rev counter! I have only looked at the oil pressure gauge so far but can't feel any cables to other gauges.
Firstly, is this correct?
Secondly, I am planning on lighting all instruments with LED - MES lights, is it simply a case of drilling the back of the gauge casings to take claw type bulb holders. Has anyone done this?
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I am a bit nervous of switching into overdrive with the accelerator hard down as I don't want to break something, instead I just dip the clutch, which works well for my style of driving.
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Just a quick note to let you know that having had the overdrive refurbished by Overdrive Repair Services and run the car for a couple of weeks the overdrive is ok now. The change into overdrive is harsh but I am hoping the at that will settle down.
Thanks for all the help.
John
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Thanks for the advice guys, I am in the process off removing the gearbox cover to have a look at oil levels and gearbox removal. I will let you know how I get on.
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Whilst pushing along in third gear I engaged overdrive which resulted in a loud chatter of what sounded like gears trying to mesh but not quite getting there, on the second attempt in top gear all went well but whilst cruising the overdrive started making a considerable noise. At low power the overdrive appears to engage and work correctly but with a bit of throttle applied the noise starts. Any ideas!
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Thank you for the help, it's all sorted now.
Cheers.
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Thank you for the information and advice. The duct were fitted to my car incorrectly and without demister hoses, so I was a bit puzzled. I will put things right tomorrow. Cheers.
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I am fitting the demister ducts to my TR4 but would like to know which is left and which is right. Can someone let me know if the hose connections should be nearest the doors or nearest the centre of the car? I have tried fitting the ducts both ways but the hose on the drivers side looks to have a very tight bend when the duct connection is to the centre of the car!
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Yes they have re-designed it and its a much better fit albeit slightly fatter than original. Fitted in about twenty minutes dry with no real struggle using a bit of thick earth wire. The screen has a Bastuck name on it.
Stuart
Thanks Stuart, that sound good to me.
John
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John
Not always as straightforward as you'd wish. Beware, some replacement windscreens on the market don't fit perfectly. I used a professional fitter and we tried two well known brands before finding one that would fit and even that wasn't perfect needing a fair bit of sealant. Also, screen rubbers vary, in some cases the rubber compound is too hard making the job difficult. Good luck!
Thanks Bill.
I had assummed that a the size of the screen would be reasonably standard.
John
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I have just fitted a new screen to a 6 and the seal is much better than previous and is a good fit all round. Moss supplied (and the tinted screen is a good fit as well.)
Stuart
Thanks Stuart, I was looking at the Moss screen. Did you use a new Moss rubber seal?
John
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Hi John,
welcome to the forum.
Try and re-use the original rubber seal. It will have the correct shape and make life easier.
Roger
Thanks for the advice I was going to cut the old windscreen out but I will now try to remove the old rubber in one piece.
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Hi guys'
I am new to the use of the forum but would appreciate some advice.
I need to replace the windscreen on my 1962 TR4 (933 UXE if anyone knows the car) before the MOT and fancy having a go at replacing it myself. I have read that it is possible to replace the windscreen and rubber seal using liquid soap and cord, to help pull the seal over the frame when presenting the new windscreen from the outside of the car. Would anyone be able to confirm that this is the best way to achieve the installation and offer an opinion on just how difficult this job is?
Cheers.
John
Radiator
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Cheers Alan.