John McIver
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Posts posted by John McIver
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If upgrading to electric washers, the car may need to be swapped to negative earth. Jags of the early 60's with electric washers were neg earth.
Plunger washers continued as an option for the TR4 and became standard on the TR4A. First recall seeing electric washers on a TR5 mounted on the firewall just behind the LH inner wing..
Viv
Hello Viv,
My 3a of the 60's had the Lucas Screenjet unit and the car was positive earth. The current TR's washer system died and has not been replaced.
John
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I have a fully restored steel hardtop and hope to fit it sometime in the near future. A tip advised to me was to fit the window rubber to the aperture and then cut off the excess. This is then cut into small pieces and used as a guage by placing them at intervals around the aperture.(My understanding is that the rubbers from The Roadster Factory are long enough to allow this practice.) This then clearly shows the amount needed to be trimmed from the window to allow a good fit. It was also suggested not to cut the window material as it may well crack, but rather to use a belt sander along the edge and certainly not across it.
My hardtop has been trimmed with normal headlining material and my recollections from an earlier TR life is that there were two anti-drumming straps sprung across the interior side to side. My current top does not have these and I would appreciate learned opinions as to whether my thoughts are fact or fantasy.
Regards,
John.
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Hello Graham,
The TRA judges and Don Elliott's post are well supported by the photo on page 35 of the Owners Handbook.
Regards,
John
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Moss U.S.A. advise that their sidescreens are as original and made by the original manufacturer. They also advise that some hand fitting may be necessary. The sidescreens that came with my car were not very old and are in very good condition, but are an atrocious fit and consequently have not been used during my ownership. How I wish for the fit that was on my 3a in the early 60's, neatly tucked into the windscreen frame groove and sealing perfectly against the hardtop.( Interestingly, the US source is a lot cheaper than UK at todays prices.)
John
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Hi Mike,
If you refer to the Australian TR register's Technical Section, there is a comprehensive article on fitting the sedan gearbox/overdrive to the TR2/3.
Regards,
John
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Hi Dan,
When you were fitting the Proex silencer, did you weld the intermediate pipe to the unit or, did you clamp it at the engine pipe and silencer? I haven't been under there yet, but I presume that the joining pipe would fit into the engine pipe and silencer, therefore allowing clamping at both joints.
Regards,
John
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Most likely many TR's out there are like mine was, with the bell crank centre and spindle very worn. Mine was to the point where the assembly would kick nearly 1/2" sideways before there was any action. Removal and inspection indicated .026" wear on the shaft and a lot of slop in the centre sleeve of the crank. Not a good scene and the fix is really simple for those with access to a lathe.
Firstly I machined up a spindle of 5/16" diameter, with a step down to 1/4" dia. which I threaded 1/4" UNF. I then held the mounting plate in the lathe by the spindle and drilled and tapped it 1/4" UNF. The excess of the old spindle was cut off and the two parts screwed together, leaving sufficient thread to put a lock nut on the back .
The bell crank was drilled to 3/8" and a thin bushing inserted to effect a perfect fit, free to turn with minimal clearance.
Careful measurement for the split pin position and a simple and very effective repair was completed.In conjunction with a new short rod assembly, the throttle action should now be as good as it ever was.
Cheers,
John
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The ball ends on my car are somewhat worn, but perhaps not as badly as your pictures. My research indicates that they are part of the vertical link and are shown in the Roadster Factory catalogue as part of p/n 148496.
Regards,
John
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The last time I removed a TR3 gearbox was some 46 years ago to replace the cluster and first sliding gear. The job was done in a week-end with the assistance of my father and I don't recall any significant grief in the replacement procedure. However, I do remember thinking that if I had to do it again at some stage, I would remove the engine/gearbox as a unit. The gearbox with overdrive is quite a heavy component to refit and there is not a lot of room to work in as most of us know. Add 46 years to 23 and at 69 I'm probably not going to do another, but if the need occurs it will be apron off and both out together. I would much rather work from above than below at this stage of life.
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Good Morning/Afternoon all,
Progessive refurbishment leads me to replacement of the top and bottom rubbers of the windscreen. This task I have no experience in whatsoever, and I seek the wisdom and knowledge of those well versed in the practice.
Thanks and regards,
John
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Interestingly, if you scroll down to "similar ads" there is another black TR2 that shows the front universal joint grommet in it's correct original location, sited through the carpet. This is a feature which seems to have almost disappeared in the mists of time. Indeed, at the last concours I attended some years back, there was not one of the cars that I looked at showing the grommet, all being hidden by the carpet. I imagine this anomoly has been created by the carpet suppliers not cutting the appropriate hole and owners/restorers not realising that the factory fitment was indeed through the carpet and not below. No doubt some will say that the carpet gets greasy over time, but for anyone seeking originality, thats where it should be.
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Hi Ian,
This is a little past the event, but I was reasonably certain that there was a sketch of the capilliary route that I had seen somewhere. Sure enough, there it is on p4 of the cooling system section in the workshop manual.
Regards,
John
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It is difficult to understand that only Ian Cornish has mentioned the most obvious way to stop run on. That is, to simply put the car in 1st gear with the brakes applied and let the clutch bite gently as the ignition is turned off. This method used over fifty years ago on my MG TC and still applicable on the TR now.
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Like kiwi-jim, I too checked the terminals on the Bosch coil fitted to my TR by a PO. The car is wired as original with +ve earth and, sure enough the power lead was on the +ve terminal. All this after I had replaced the complete loom some months back and had simply reconnected the leads as they were. One never stops learning.
Thank you Ian.
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Hi Ian,
A minor correction to my earlier post. I mentiond that the guages in my TR were as per the schematic on P48 of the owner's handbook; this is not correct, they are in fact as per the wiring schematic shown on P32 of the electrical section in the shop manual. This is oil and temp on top, amps and fuel below, L&R respectively. I presume the oil guage is in it's original location as the car was built LHD, it being of the 3b variety. The others may have been altered during it's conversion to RHD prior to my ownership. So we have three differing locations for the guages listed in the S/T publications, with only the picture on P8 of the handbook being apparently true to form and in line with Stuarts' post.
Regards,
John
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Hi Pete,
I would like to echo Viv's comments, and say that I think it's the perfect combination of both fronts. I have always thought the TR2 much more attractive than the 3a with it's dollar grin.(A little reminiscent of the 105E Anglia.) Your front also takes away the longer headlamp pods, which I think detracted slightly from the earlier cars pleasing lines.
Regards,
John
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Hello Ian,
I have been down this path some months back. I suppose there may be a "factory correct" route originally, but I used the keep it simple method, by following the most practical course avoiding any sharp bends and cable tying where applicable. My TR has a Claytons heater assembly fitted, so it's probably not the same unit and the guage layout may differ as well. My oil and temp. are on the top and it would appear from the oil pipe shape and fit that it has always been that way. (The picture on page 8 of the hand book and the schematic on page 48 show the guages in differing locations; mine are as per page 48.)
Regards,
John
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Hi John and others following the 18 inch TR-2 silencer project:
Well, the 18 inch Proex is installed, and it sounds great! A definite uptick in the "rort" and bark as it goes through 2500 to 3000 rpm. It is a deeper note as well, and it just growls with a bit more muscle behind it. I love it, and it is not so much louder that it draws any more attention than it already did. It also simplifies things under the chassis and is a cleaner fit as the system and bracketry was designed with the 18 inch in mind. I used the TR-4 bracket near the gearbox mounting as recommended. I couldn't find the two-piece early TR-2 bracket, so I made a concession to originality and went with the better engineered TR-4 bracket.
Aloha
Dan
Hi Dan,
Nice to get your feedback on my research and the positive result of your purchase. Sounds like just the result that you were looking for and I now look forward to the same original sound from my TR in due course. I hope you will follow up with the fore-mentioned video clip when able to do so.
Regards,
John
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The overdrive you have now got fitted - is it an A type?
Did it come from a TR sports car or a saloon car?
I recall the Triumph 2000 / 2500 used an A type with a different sized speedo driven gear to the TR. (the qty of teeth cut in the anulus shaft may be different too)
I would get your speedo recalibrated to match the vehicle axle ratio and tyre size. That would get the whole thing correct. Simple task for you to carry out ratio checks and send the information with your speedo to a specialist.
PM me if you need to know how to do the ratio checks as per the Smiths Instruments instructions.
Cheers
Peter W
Hi Peter W.
I have contacted the installer of the overdrive who tells me that it is from a TR.
I would be pleased if you could send me the instructions for the ratio check, thank you. My email address is; jadem@internode.on.net
Regards,
John
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Ian C.
An email sent to the address given in your last post has been returned as undeliverable. Could you please verify or send the info. via my profile which has a contact box therein.
Thanks,
John
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Ian C.
Thank you for your response.
At least I have the correct speedo head for the fitted tyre equipment. I am not familiar with Newsletter 29 etc. Perhaps you could email me the relevant section on axle ratios please.
Peter W.
Yes, the o/d is an A type and works superbly on all three gears.
I have no more idea than you, of what it came from. The fitment was done prior to my ownership and I am sorting out all sorts of miscellaneous problems progressively.
Thank you, I would appreciate an email of the Smiths Instructions to which you refer.
Hi Viv,
I am determined that we will get to the bottom of this. I have emailed Geoff K. asking him of the origon of the o/d if known. I have a N.O.S. driven gear of 15 teeth believed to be for all TR2-3; this is yet to be confirmed.
Regards,
John
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Good Morning All,
The speedo reading on my TR is incorrect.
My understanding of the handbook is that the correct mph per 1000 rpm is 20 approximately on 165 tyres. The instrument has been overhauled and calibrated to 1216 cable turns per mile, which is the given figure on the face. This figure is a mystery, as most others appear to be 1180. I recall that my 3a in the 60's read 3000 at 60 in direct top gear and 75 at 3000 in O/D. This is in line with the handbook. However, the current car reads at least 10 mph under the specified figure, indicating approx. 30 at 2000.
The tachometer is correct, having been verified electronically off the distributor and also by the repair shop. Jacking up the rear axle and comparing tailshaft to wheel turns was inconclusive, probably due to differential action. At this stage I presume that the axle ratio is 3.7, but this is not confirmed. The car was originally non O/D but now has it fitted. Given a figure of 1216 cable turns per mile, I would expect to get 12.1 in 17.6 yards, but three tests indicated only 8.7 turns over that distance. Maybe an incorrect driven gear has been installed at some stage and, can any reader please confirm the number of teeth on the specified driven gear?
Would any responding 3b owner please check the figure written on their speedo below the mileage recorder.
Thanks and regards,
John.
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Also on TCF 2650 L, a late build 3b of 1962. Although the RHS one is somewhat squashed.
Cheers,
John
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Don,
I think the post refers to Lucas p/n's, not S/T.
Regards,
John
Clip On Overtaking Mirror
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Check out the Australian TR Register for sale section. One of our members makes what you are looking for.
Question: What is a "Sage One"?