TR6man42
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Posts posted by TR6man42
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OK, I'm no longer a member, having sold my TR6 several years ago but I assumed there would be an Archive section, sorry about that. However I took a photocopy of this article which is in front of me now.
It was penned by a Roger Mew and printed in Technicalities, unfortunately the date is not visible on my photocopy, and yes it was later than 2005.
Hope that helps,
Regards,
TR6man42
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Why don't you look in the 'Archive' section of TRaction? There was an article under 'Tech talk' printed some years ago on this very subject giving parts required, wiring diagram etc.
With fraternal greetings.
TR6man42
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Anybody any news of present location of ABW 210 G, a 1969 CP TR6 in red?
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I have a pair of Quinton Hazell UJ's part no: QL-403 greasable, still in original packing. Can't remember whether these were for the propshaft or the driveshafts of a TR6. Any of the experts on this forum could enlighten me?
Regards,
TR6man42
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Many moons ago I purchased a glass-fibre tunnel from Racetorations (are they still about?). This was in two parts c/w with appropriate covers/seals over the speedo g/box and front propshaft greasepoint etc. This didn't require hacking, bodging to fit and being in two parts meant you could remove the rear section to replace speedo g/box or overdrive solenoid without having the pain of removing the whole lot! It would appear the quality of this replacement item offered by the spare parts industry has deteriorated over the years, compared to the excellent Racetorations item.
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Sympathise with your having to sell 'your pride & joy'. I sold mine in 2010 using "Eclectic Cars" at Weston-on-the-Green, Oxfordshire. Run by Suart Kilvington and Simeon Cattle as they were not very far from me. I got what I wanted for it, they got a load of commission & I didn't have to deal with 'time wasters/tyre kickers or test pilots'! Courteous service with a great selection of real sports cars/interesting classics under their roof. Recommended, providing your happy to pay their commission?
With fraternal greetings,
TR6man42
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Hi Webmaster,
I'm TR6man42 on the forum. A responding member has advised me that my Inbox is full. How do I manage this & clear out unwanted messages please?
My 'e'mail is: timoates23912708@yahoo.co.uk. I don't use Outlook Express.
Regards,
TR6man42
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Have just 'e'mailed you using your BT address.
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Hi, will 'e' mail you, can't get a picture through on this forum. As to speed of reply - I'm bored!!! Have just tried posting photo's using your outlook express 'e' mail & my server keeps coming up with an error message & stops posting! Do you have another address which doesn't rely on Outlook Express? Alternatively PM me with a postal address & I'll send you some fax type prints.
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Hi, will these do?
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Hi, I had this done on my CP by a local welder using a kit supplied by TR Revington. Worked very well for me. Can supply photo's through your 'e' address as I don't know how to insert them on here, not being a computer geek!
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Why not try fitting that fiddly top bolt from the front i.e.insert from the engine compartment instead of fiddling from within the car? You can adjust the length by packing with flat washers.
It worked for me as you can start the nut using your 'rubber' fingers from outside the car! Thinks-the mention of rubber should get a response from 88V8 in due course!
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The corner pieces around the ends of the 'flying buttresse's' are available new from TR Shop at Chiswick. Leastways, they were 18months ago when I replaced mine!
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88V8 - Seems to me you've got your foot in your mouth, so to speak. In a previous post you said and I quote: "The pipes are not exposed to the sun, I think the car will perish before the pipes do"! Not to worry unduly though, perhaps it's the way your mother put your hat on?
Regards,
TR6man42 aka Colonel Buffy Trumpington Smythe of the 1st.Bengal Foot & Mouth Lancers (retired).
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Err, I ran a longer rubber pipe from the right side under the dash to the left side, then joined both with a T piece to a single pipe exiting thru' the scuttle. Also fitted a fine mesh grille underneath the hinged vent lid to prevent leaf entry, of which there were none! Roger so far over?
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Notwithstanding the previous views expressed by said learned TR gentlemen, I adopted the following solution for my CP TR6. Sorry, can't show any photos as the car has now been sold!
Why is anybody persevering with routing rubber pipes through the wing bodywork which can then perish & hey presto you have a problem again.?
I blocked off the holes in the inner panels, adjacent to the outlet pipes from the plenum chamber and then routed both rubber pipes from either side of the plenum chamber via a Rover supplied T piece to a single pipe which then exited through the scuttle, left hand side, and was clipped to the engine bay adjacent to the battery and finishing down near the clutch slave cylinder underneath the car. I think the hole in the scuttle I used was either for the rev.counter drive or oil pressure line, I forget, anyway whichever it was I rerouted it!
A neat result and no water got in the front wings/sills as I also fitted plastic underwing liners. An alternative suggestion?
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As indicated previously, I fitted a GRP ducting from Racetorations which was a good fit & looks attractive. Another plug for RCT, I also fitted their two piece GRP gearbox tunnel with inspection ports, another good product.
Regards,
TR6man42
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Morning gents,
The front air vent drains directly into the inner wing. I've seen the mod to extend the air inlet drain tube thru the splash guard. What about the drain channel infront of the vent? This also runs direct into the inner wing area. Has anyone applied a modification to redirect the drain water from this area?
Cheers
Steve
I fitted wheelarch protectors so instead of routing the drains through the splashguards I joined the two outlets together from the plenum chamber via a BL T-piece and routed via a single drain tube through the scuttle, exhausting just to the left and below the battery tray on the passenger side(RHD) car. The now open holes in the inner wings I filled with a rubber bung, each side. Works perfectly for me.
TR6man42
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It is from a post CR5001 TR6 PI engine
Assembly number UKC1420
Peter W
Many thanks for that info. Peter W
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To all the pundits cruising this forum,
I have a TR6 cylinder head of unknown history which I would like to identify i.e.is it an early CP head, later CR head etc.,
The following info is stamped on the head:
Serial no: 219015 followed by V3297 then of course STANPART followed by 313247 and 189 3 4E6. Inside the area covered by the rocker cover is stamped BIL & N4.
Can anybody indentify which head I have please?
With fraternal greetings,
TR6man 42
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To all TR6 sages and especially IanHoward, success at last!
Solution - go to friendly private garage 1/2 mile down the road, pass over bottle of red wine, in return for 2 minutes use of air impact wrench = job done!
Much heartache would have been avoided if I'd taken the IanHoward advice first and not last, ah well, c'est la vie.
with fraternal greetings,
TR6man42
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88V8,
Thanks for the photo and the technical info., I'm learning more by the minute! Can you enlighten me as to what size socket I should be using to remove this unusual bolt? At present am using a 1&1/8" but it's not a perfect fit, would a 28mm/29mm be more appropriate?
I take your point about using a pusher but I don't have the space having fitted an oil cooler, yes I know, a fool and his money are soon parted, there are so many siren suppliers out there!
Many thanks,
TR6man42
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To all who have offered advice so far, thank you very much. I'm no further forward at the moment but I do have a clearer idea of how to proceed.
88V8 - I hear what you say concerning the fan extension, to leave in situ after removing the engine yellow fan but then you can't fit the radiator c/w electric fan behind it into the available space! So the fan extension has to be removed c/w long bolt.
A drastic solution has occurred to me - grind/cut head of bolt off as no longer needed. Remove fan extension, I am presuming this is not threaded to accommodate the bolt? Fit two locknuts and remove remainder of bolt as torque required to remove will be considerably less, n'est pas?
Regards,
TR6man42
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Hi All,
Am in need of some assistance from all those TR6 sages out there. Have begun to fit a Revotek fan kit to my car. The problem is I can't get the fan extension bolt out, do I hear what a surprise! I have the car chocked, handbrake on, gear lever in 4th.(top) gear, using a 1/2"sq.drive torque wrench set to 100 ft.lb and the bolt won't budge. If I need additional leverage how do I get it without removing the bonnet and/or the detachable chassis member?
Further, when I do get this bolt out I can't find a figure for the short bolt replacement to be torqued to!
Final thought - why is this bolt torqued to such a high figure, it's only securing the pulley wheel after all?
Any advice appreciated,
Regards,
TR6man42
Distributor pedestal for P.I. and non P.I TR6.
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Can anybody give me the part nos for the above subject please? Unable to identify from either the Rimmers or Moss catalogue. Many thanks in anticipation,
TR6man42