Richard
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Posts posted by Richard
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I have just checked the glass bowl on the fuel pump on my TR4a and it is full of ****,as there is no fuel filter on these cars I intend to fit an in line Purolator fuel filter,with replaceable elements in the fuel line , any suggestions as to where this would be most effective,I would think between the tank and pump so the pump and carbs are protected
any suggestions would be appreciated
regards Babs
Babs,
I've used a small Jaguar paper filter for years in my 4A. They're inexpensive and small enough to fit in the glass bowl. Be sure to elevate the fuel line prior to removing the glass bowl and be prepared for the possibility of a little fuel spillage when you first release the glass bowl clamp.
Richard
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Hi Everybody-does anyone out there know what the original veneer on a '67 4A would be?
Mine is in good sound condition & I don't particularly want to remove it unnecessarily,
but my doortop trims are in poor condition & I intend to make new veneered ones to match the dash.
There are a number of veneers that would do, but it would be nice to get an exact match
TIA-Richard
TIA-Richard,
According to Bill Piggott's book "Original Triumph TR", Copyright 1991 by Bay View Books Ltd, page 93 "...the one-piece dashboard (TR4A) was now in polished walnut veneer...". I own a 1966 TR4A, CT-65074-L, built 25 January 1966. The dashboard veneer is indeed walnut but not stained as dark as newer replacement boards. Original 4A dashboards were lighter in color than currently seen on many restored cars with new or refinished dashes. Piggott's books with their fine photographs are a good source for determining originality.
Richard
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Hi Im Jason and currently working on a TR4. Im from asia so i have to source my parts overseas. Ive heard good reviews with moss motors and british victoria...how about the company The roadster factory? I need a company that can take advantage of lot orders, because I plan to order everything that I need in one shipping to save on shipping costs. Thanks
Jason,
Over the years I've ordered several parts from the Roadster Factory and they've always been as advertised and well packaged - the largest order being 5 Dayton wire wheels, knockoffs and hubs shipped from their Pennsylvania headquarters to my home in Washington. They often have good specials and parts which Moss U.S. may not have.
Richard
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Hi Im Jason and currently working on a TR4. Im from asia so i have to source my parts overseas. Ive heard good reviews with moss motors and british victoria...how about the company The roadster factory? I need a company that can take advantage of lot orders, because I plan to order everything that I need in one shipping to save on shipping costs. Thanks
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Does anyone have any idea how long lever shocks (TR4A) may last before requiring rebuild or replacement? If they don't leak, can they be assumed to be ok? TR4A solid axle is a very stiff riding car and it is difficult to tell how much dampening the shocks provide. Many thanks for any comments.
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Re gearbox conversions: This is another company that produces gearbox conversion kits. I am unfamiliar with them but the fellow that did my conversion with the California sourced conversion, is familiar with the New Zealand firm, has been to their factory, and is very impressed with their product. Could it be less expensive for Great Britain and European residents to buy from the NZ company (import taxes, duty etc.) rather from the U.S.?
Here's the link:
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Here is a link to the price page.
http://www.hvdaconversions.com/pgs-final/o...fo-contact.html
You will also need to source the garbox after you have the kit
Cheers
Alan
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For some reason the link for the 5-speed transmission conversion does not work when copied and pasted into browsers. Please try this instead:
http://www.hvdaconversions.com
Apologies for the bad link address
Richard
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Hi Richard,
Loks interesting, but the link doesn't work (at least, not for me)
AlanR
Alan,
It appears the letter "l" was inadvertently not copied to the "htm" or dropped at the end of the link . Please try this:
http://www.hvdaconversions.com/pgs-final/t...conversion.html
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Just an FYI for anyone considering a 5-speed or a 4-speed with overdrive for their TR. I just switched out my non-overdrive original 4-speed (1966 TR4A) for a 5-speed Celica transmission and the car has been transformed! The transmission is superb - short throws, cockpit looks absolutely stock, and rpm's at 60-65 mph dropped from approximately 3000-3200 rpm to 2200-2500rpm. Lightened flywheel, smoother clutch and now with a transmission known for going well over 200,000 miles. Here's the website for the fellow who developed the kit:
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Richard,
Have you check the gearbox attachments, especially rear bushing ?
Is the whole engine/ gbox/ axle aligned?
Is the chassis straight?
A front sway bar is a very nice improvement. Rear sway bars generally get removed after some time and everybody has a different reason for that. Does not appear very rational. It just seems a useless gadget. I have no personal experience.
Cheers,
Badfrog,
Thanks for your comments. I think the problem must be somewhere in the list you provided although to the best of my knowledge, the chassis is straight (never involved in an accident - I'm only the third owner of the car and I know the other two). In the interest of drivability, comfort, and engine life, I'm going to commit TR heresy soon in that I'm going to change out the car's non-overdrive 4 speed for a Toyota Celica 5-speed. It fits perfectly, no cutting or welding and the cockpit remains absolutely stock with no visual clue to the changed transmission. I'll keep the original 4 speed should a future buyer (although I have no intention of ever selling the car) wish to return the car to it's original transmission. With this change (also involving a lightened clutch), I'll address the alignment issues you've mentioned. Thanks again.
Regards,
Richard
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Richard: They claim to be able to manufacture NEW Bluemel wheels. Have you or anyone you know used this firm. The sources for REPRO Bluemel wheels seem to have dried up. I had a wheel on order for my 3A at the Roadster Factory. After several months on back order, I got an email from them stating that they were no longer available.
Frank,
No, I haven't used this firm. My '66 TR4A has an original wood steering wheel purchased new with the car at the TR dealership in San Francisco (it was a dealer installed option) and therefore I do not have an original bakelite wheel. Good luck with the restoration - I think restoring it would be better than a reproduction.
Richard
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Hi
Ive just bought an original steering wheel for my TR4A -well it looks original!! (16" dia)
Has anyone ever renovated an old steering wheel.
Would welcome members advice/experiences of how they tackled it - I know there are steering wheel renovating packs available but not sure how succesful they are.
Thanks
Dave
Dave,
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Does anyone have any information or experience with solid axle TR4A's that exhibit a "twitch' or yaw to the left during rapid upshifts/downshifts or rapid throttle reductions? I've owned this car for over 15 years and have had it inspected numerous times to no avail. New rear springs and bushings (first rubber, now polyurethane) have been installed, it has had a 4 wheel alignment, lever shocks serviced, no leaks, new Dayton 60 spoke wire wheels (replaced original steel wheels), Michelin 165x15 tires. Yaw does not occur if upshifts/downshifts are accomplished very slowly. Slight yaw if throttle reduction is gradual although it is never consistently the same. Tubes to differential have been inspected as has the entire rear axle. Distance pieces and securing "U" bolts are in good order and secure.
Any thoughts on installing front and rear sway bars on this car? Would sway bar installation minimize or in any way reduce or affect this tendency to yaw during rapid throttle reduction?
Thank you.
RMerrell
TR4A Lever shocks
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Darren,
Thanks for the reply. I, too, have upgraded my 4A with new rear springs, poly bushings, and both front and rear stabilizer bars but I still feel a slight yaw to the left on rapid throttle reduction or power on upshifts. The yaw has been significantly reduced and the only thing left to change are the lever shocks. Mine are the original from the factory, circa 1966 and although they don't leak, it is difficult to tell what's going on inside. I get a pretty rough ride over undulating pavement and hence, I'm going to go ahead and install new shocks. This yaw or twitch has been a real mystery to all who have driven and worked on the car. Hopefully, new lever shocks will solve the issue.
Regards,
richard