[1972 TR6 buy a new engine or recon existing engine?]

Hi there

 

I had the same thoughts about twelve years ago. I know it's a long time but the principle might be the same.

 

I looked around at recon./ rebuilt engines from the usual sources and decided to get my own done. I researched a lot and eventually went to TRGB ( no connection whatsoever I hasten to add). They charged about K 2.5 which I thought was quite a lot but it did include a new complete clutch and starter motor. it had a few teething problems with a minor oil leak but the motor is now still running superbly well after thirteen or so years with no problem. However the thing that made most difference to the performance was an unleaded conversion from Peter Burgess in Alfreton Derbyshire, £500. Great increase in MPG and performance. I then fitted an Aldon Igniter elec. ignition and got more improvement, £70 approx. Next came a Bosch pump from TR Bitz and new injectors and a lot of friendly advice from Malcolm Jones at Prestige.

 

That a brief summary. it might help or provoke more thoughts and response.

 

Happy thinking!

Phil

[Metering unit problem]

Apologies for a somewhat obvious question. When you fitted the new injector did you bleed it and was there a nice round cone shape of petrol vapour mist on a piece of white paper, or nothing at all.

Cheers

Phil

[Wire wheel balancing]

I realise you are a long way away but this might help if you ring them for advice. Frank Watts tyres in Sutton in Ashfield has an on car wheel balancer. It is like a sideways on vacuum cleaner wheel belt which lays against the tyre, spins it and shows the results on a screen.

 

Works a treat for IRS cars as well, but I believe it is rare to find a garage with one.

Cheers

Phil

[TR6 no starting some mornings]

Ian

I suppose some guys are just born lucky!!!

 

Happy motoring for another thirteen years.

Phil

[electrical problems - no starting]

Thanks for info - will investigate

Phil

[TR6 no starting some mornings]

Thanks Roger - will try that. Could use an old E string I suppose !!

Cheers

Phil

 

 

[TR6 no starting some mornings]

Thank you all very much for your helpful comments. Very sorry for the late reply after you had taken trouble to reply, have had lots of other things to do. Will try to work out what is the cause. At the moment all is well with the ammeter needle in the correct position when running - Yesterday it showed too much charge when running, but started this am. OK

Cheers

Phil

 

Will let you know as/when progress occurs.

[electrical problems - no starting]

Hi Peter and Steve

 

Firstly a sincere apology for the very late response to your very helpful reply. Have been very busy with new band. Will try what you suggest Peter. I am in Ashover Steve.

 

Those pics. bring back memories. The photo is at the Iron Door just of Dale Street, Feb 1962 - up for school next morning!

 

Cheers

Phil

[TR6 no starting some mornings]

Evening all

Symptoms;

Three times in past 6 weeks would not start in morning. Battery completely dead. leave car 1 or 2 days seems ok - leave car 4 days or more - dead! Start car with jump leads, ammeter shows big charge whilst running - far too big. Three places have checked alt. and batt. Alt. showing charge to batt. at approx. 13.9; batt. showing good condition and charging about just under 14. All say both seem OK.

These symptoms are variable and the ammeter is sometimes almost normal, other times between Ok and full charge; too high I think

About three months ago I fitted a new pet. pump relay to a Bosch as the old one blew. Originally I fitted the terminals wrongly and had a massive discharge. Changed the to and from terminals and all seemed OK. Could this be the prob?

have fitted new wiper switch - couldn't get Clears Hooters so Lucas. Haven't yet filed out metal dash but all works well. Does this switch earth to metal dash?

Am I correct in thinking something is running to earth and draining the batt.

Any help or thoughts would be much appreciated. I am not very well up on matters 12v. electrical. Can change mechanical bits and play a Hofner bass guitar OK, but that's about it!

cheers

Phil Rylance

[electrical problems - no starting]

Evening all

 

Symptoms;

Three times in past 6 weeks would not start in morning. Battery completely dead. leave car 1 or 2 days seems ok - leave car 4 days or more - dead! Start car with jump leads, ammeter shows big charge whilst running - far too big. Three places have checked alt. and batt. Alt. showing charge to batt. at approx. 13.9; batt. showing good condition and charging about just under 14. All say both seem OK.

 

These symptoms are variable and the ammeter is sometimes almost normal, other times between Ok and full charge; too high I think

 

About three months ago I fitted a new pet. pump relay to a Bosch as the old one blew. Originally I fitted the terminals wrongly and had a massive discharge. Changed the to and from terminals and all seemed OK. Could this be the prob?

 

have fitted new wiper switch - couldn't get Clears Hooters so Lucas. Haven't yet filed out metal dash but all works well. Does this switch earth to metal dash?

 

Am I correct in thinking something is running to earth and draining the batt.

 

Any help or thoughts would be much appreciated. I am not very well up on matters 12v. electrical. Can change mechanical bits and play a Hofner bass guitar OK, but that's about it!

 

cheers

Phil Rylance

[CR TR6 comm.no.]

Thanks Michael.

 

Will look at plate and log book, neither of which i have seen. The number is 30 from the end of the 1972 cars build ( 664), thus enabling free road tax - just!!

 

cheers

Phil

[CR TR6 comm.no.]

Hi all

 

My friend has a CR 6 with the comm .no. CR 634 D. We can find a build date of between 18 Nov. 72 and end Dec. 72 but we don't know what the D stands for.. Any help most welcome.

Cheers

Phil

[Bosch Fuel Pumps]

Hi there

Ring Malcolm at prestige - good guy!!!

Cheers

Phil

 

Malcolm G Jones Tel/Fax (01978)263449

[Rechromed bumpers versus new]

Hi Brian

 

A quick response.

 

I had three new front bumpers via a well respected TR supplier/garage/workshop. They all went back as unsatisfactory - He completely agreed with my decision. Eventually I pulled out a bit of damage and thoroughly cleaned my old unit. Looks OK. The new repro ones had very thin plating which the prep work showed through.

 

Phil Rylance

[head mods, which is the best head]

Hi David

A bit of a late response - only just seen your post.

 

I got my 150 head done by Peter Burgess in Alfreton. It was his top range job, £500 - stage 2ish! He said I should get 25% more of speed, bhp or MPG. I was rather dubious but he was absulutely correct. The car used to do 19 round town and 24 on a run. Now it does 23 and 31 and runs beautifully. Mind you the engine has been rebuilt and an Alden igniter electronic ignition fitted. Peter Burgess knows his stuff!

 

Good luck if you've not already started

cheers

Phil

[My First TR6]

Nick

 

To avoid confusion, is your leak at the Lucas pump in the boot, or at the Lucas Metering Unit next to the distributor.

 

If the former then you probably have a seal/ ring gone on the pump shaft which is quite easy to replace. If the latter then it possibly the return fuel pipe( 8" curly black pipe) which can be re-sealed or replaced quite easily and cheaply. Good luck with your nice looking car which would appear to be a 150BHP CP car from pre.73

 

Cheers

Phil

[What tyres]

Hi Paul

 

What Richard says is spot on. I found 185s right for the original 5.5 rims but now use 195 on 6". Both suited the car well. As for make; every tyre fitter I have ever talked to says the Michelin are the finest tyres you can buy. I have used them for apprx. 10 years with no problems whatsoever. They seem to be about £250/260 fitted which I consider OK. My wife has Toyo on a MX5 and says they are fine, cheaper two.

 

Happy new tyres!

Phil

[Difficulty starting after Layup]

Interesting reading all round.

A few years ago I had similar problems and whilst fiddling with the distributor - I broke it. I couldn't find a Lucas anywhere so my local Lucas agent sold me a "brand new" 1972 AC/Delco six cylinder distributor which he assured me would work on any 6 cyl. Triumph. A friend made a very minor adjusment to the fitting bracket and I simply bunged it on. It fired up straight away and worked well. A few weeks later I added the appropriate Alden Igniter electronic ignition. Once again I bunged it in and away it went. Later came a Bosch pump from John Sykes, a metering unit from Gary Bates and a bit of TLC from Malcolm at Prestige ( the most underated bass guitar player in Wales!). Now to the point! After standing anything from one day to five weeks I pull out the choke, switch on without any waiting and fire up instantly to all six and the car has never run as well in my twelve years of ownership. I went to Rimini without a missed beat last year, did 31.5 mpg and used the German autobahn as a speed trial for the fastest run ever. I suppose I have been lucky and have just clicked with the setup. I am on BP6ES, use 95 din. octane on an unleaded Peter Burgess head.

 

PS It can still be a tiny bit of a pig after standing one to two hours in the summer, but I suppose you can't have everything can you?

 

good wishes with your fiddling

Phil Rylance

[brake drums skimmed]

hello one and all

 

My drums are a bit old and scored. I have been advised that new ones are not made from the best of materials and thus am thinking of skimming the old. I have found a local engineer who wants £30 for the job. how much should I have taken off( first skim) and what is the general opinion /advice.

Cheers

Phil

[TR Enterprises]

Hi Graham

 

Ref.TR Ents

 

Steve Hall and his guys are thorough and extremely experienced in all matters TR. They will talk and offer advice on the best way to tackle your work. I would recommend a chat with Steve or Simon and take it from there.

 

Cheers

Phil Rylance

[towing a caravan]

Hi to you

 

Best advice is to go to any good caravan dealers/spares/accessories shop and see what they have which could be used or adapted to suit your 6.

Measure your 6/measure your caravan. Possibly all the convexity in the world will not help if your van is too wide- you will possibly need to have a mirror position approx. one foot outward from each wing.

 

Hope you get sorted

Phil Rylance

( ex caravanner now TR6 owner!)

[Rev counter knock knock]

Hi steve

 

Ref. rev. cable.

 

detach cable from distributor by screw thread nut on side-detach other end from guage( bit of a mess about under dash!) check both ends are square and in good nick and are well sited into the respective holes on dist. and guage before you start to screw - do not cross thread which is all too easy. if not square, renew cable. There are two lengths- if I remember Moss do a slightly longer cable which is what I would advise. Dodgy cable equals erratic needle movement!

 

cheers

Phil Rylance

[Rear bodywork]

Neil

 

Refr. wet when standing

 

A lot of TR4,5,6s let water in when standing in the rain, not necessarily when moving. the rain runs down the windscreen frame and enters the car at the extreme lower front end of the window. Get a watering can and pour water down there and you will se what I mean. My six is totally water free except when standing in heavy rain. I do not know of the correct way to fix this. Others on this site may well read this and offer advice, other than the obvious of try not to let it stand in the rain.

Cheers

phil

 

 

PS / Try to take off the front and rear wings ( bolt on ) and you will see a lot more of your car and its problems. If the inner wings are not good, then probably the sills are also poor which is not a cheap job. If it's inner wing problems I would advise going to a recognised expert. Good luck.

[good tyres]

4 Pirelli 195/15/65 on wheels. Top quality winter tyres but will fit and suit all round motoring. From Merc. C class 1999 model. Tyres used for 6 months ( approx 5000 miles)and thus have lots of excellent tread.

 

£ 60. in Derbyshire

 

Phil Rylance -

[Buying a TR6 and what to look for]

Hi Dave

 

When you look at something thirty five years old you will obviously look at the exterior and see what the world can see as well. If it looks tatty on the outside then it will be the same underneath. Expensive!!

 

Some further points to consider.

1. inspect all panel joints, plus the rear bottom of the front wings and the front bottom of the rear wings - where the dirt collects.

2. look carefully at the joints where all the wishbones join the chassis for metal spliting etc. - critical!!

3. Inspect the joints of the trailing arms to the rear chassis - lots of stress here!

4. Take a magnet to the strip of bodywork along the join of the rear deck to the top of the rear wings. Filler means bad news later on!

5. Get a torch - crawl upside down under the dash and look up to the under side of the air intake - plenum chamber. All should be bodycolour or primer without underseal at all.

6. Inspect all joins of panels under the bonnet down at the bottom of the wheel arches and at the rear of the under bonnet scuttle.

 

I suppose it's all common sense really. You will find many different 'experts' will tell you many different things. Take the best of the advice and ignore all the 'know all' comments. Explain ti the seller that you trust him to give you a fair deal, and if possible buy from a register member or recognised supplier.

 

I wish you well in your purchase

 

Cheers

 

Phil Rylance