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warwickgt

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Posts posted by warwickgt

  1. It does seem confusing this extract below is from  tfl site . I checked my two cars 1965 and 68 a few days ago and it said exempt. Now today not exempt and need to pay . It may be I need to register to get exemption. 

    Historic vehicles

    You can apply to stop paying vehicle tax if your vehicle was built more than 40 years ago. This date moves forward on a 40-year rolling system. Assuming the rules stay the same, when the ULEZ launches in April 2019, vehicles built before 1979 will be eligible to apply for historic vehicle tax class.

    All vehicles that have a historic vehicle tax class will be exempt from the ULEZ. This tax class excludes any vehicle used commercially (for example, coffee vans or street food vans).

    In line with the existing LEZ discount all vehicles registered before 1 January 1973 will be exempt from the ULEZ, regardless of commercial use or otherwise.

    If your vehicle meets the above criteria and is registered in the UK, it is automatically exempt and you don't need to register with us. If your vehicle meets the above criteria but is registered outside the UK, you are also exempt, but will need to register with us. Details on how you can register will be available closer to the time.

  2.   I wish I never asked. I thought I might get a list of points to ask or things to check. All I have got is pysicobable. And not reading my question. I only want a well built reliable, to standard specification engine No super duper flywheels, compressions of the head, crank end float. (I would hope a decent workshop would deal with that or at least explain the measurement of mine and how in or out of spec it is and how they would deal with it) makes of pistons.

    I think I now have found my answer in the workshop manual. It tells you about an engine rebuild so I will use to bench mark. 

    Thanks all for trying. Think you all a bit to behind the norm for me. 

  3.   I wish I never asked. I thought I might get a list of points to ask or things to check. All I have got is pysicobable. And not reading my question. I only want a well built reliable, to standard specification engine No super duper flywheels, compressions of the head, crank end float. (I would hope a decent workshop would deal with that or at least explain the measurement of mine and how in or out of spec it is and how they would deal with it) makes of pistons.

    I think I now have found my answer in the workshop manual. It tells you about an engine rebuild so I will use to bench mark. 

    Thanks all for trying. Think you all a bit to behind the norm for me. 

  4. Good evening all. I need to have an engine rebuilt. What questions would you ask prospective companies who I might contact to carry out the work, to help me understand what they will do in a rebuild and so I can gain confidence in a there work and me a good engine. I am not looking for any power increase just a well executed reliable engine to last the car another fifty years. 

    Regards

  5. I had the same question about the S when I rebuilt the axle in my Warwick. In the case of the 2523 and the 2523-S, the difference is in the Housing Fillet Radius. This is the cup part that seats in the housing to the shoulder inside. The S is 0.06 in radius and the other is 0.05 in. Not a lot of difference but if the radius doesn't clear, the load will be on the edge and not on the flat of the cup against the shoulder. I went with the engineers and put in the 2523-S.

     

     

    Thanks for the info. I have taken hub apart now. Bearings ok. Only going to replace the shim. Then put back together.

  6. Hi All Clever people in Peerless Warwick Land

    Last MOT I had advisory in rear wheel bearing play on my Warwick. Now its that time again for my MOT. So I need to do something. From the "whats it off page" on the Peerless-gt web site it gives you the bearing type.I think they are the same for both cars? If they are they are:-

     

    Timken 2523S & 2585.(Race & Cup) These two parts assemble to make one bearing, 4 complete bearings are needed per car.

    Great. Off I go and try to order some. bit of a shock then. I have spoken to a recommended bearing supplier. He tells me list price ( He said he could do some discount) the bearings are £250.48 Plus VAT. I fall on floor as I had looked up normal TR3 bearing prices. The bearing people say also Listed is the same bearing without the S in the decription. These are £73.60 plus VAT. The dimmensions are exact the only differance is the weight. The S is 10g lighter. Timken will not tell him the differance as the worry people phone get advise and buy cheaper ones.

    Has anyone got any knowlege if I must have S or not.Or what is the differance of S or not S. Even if I have cheaper non timken would they last would be my worry to.

    I await the knowlege from the learned world

    Thanks

    Duncan

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