Jack Horner
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Posts posted by Jack Horner
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If you haven't looked in the Buy / Sell section, a low port head is needed for a TR2 Engine rebuild. Someone must have one sat away that's still useable. Come on fellows take a look as the summer will be over soon.
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Thank you all for your recommendations. My engine was collected last night. Just have to hope there are no nasty suprises waiting .
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Richard has yours been modified to run without the FO8's ?
Pulling the engine out today so will be dropping it off somewhere next weekend all being good.
Thanks for the recommendations.
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Maybe you guys should start a thread about Damp start and not hijack this thread for an engine builder.
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Thanks for the replies people and for the PM's, keep them coming. I am going to pull out the engine Easter weekend and will get it booked in as soon as its out. Have had a few quotes back from some of the people mentioned and am waiting on some others.
regards Jack
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Pm me your email address and I will send you some pictures.
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Looking for a good engine builder to fully recondition my TR2 engine. I am based in the North of England so local would be good, but do know some do offer pick up and return.
So if you have used someone and feel that you can recommend them then please let me know.
Has anyone used K and N in Kent?
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Well Rimmer's sent me another new rocker shaft, but found I couldn't adjust the tappets with the new rocker arms fitted. Had to wait for the pedestal spacers and then fit and set up.
Just fired her up and the rattle has now gone. The old shaft and rockers didn't look too badly worn, but you live and learn.
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I know, this sort of thing should't happen. But with one manufacturer selling to more than 1 supplier it seems it isn't just Rimmer's who have these shafts.
I was just going to drill out the holes on my bench drill, but to be honest i am not going to use it. The oil holes have been drilled all over the place, some are touching the edge of the flats other in the correct location. Whilst it would probably do the job, I haven't paid for probably.
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Just tried to assemble my new rocker shaft and new rockers. Fist thing is that the oil feed holes for the arms in the new shaft are only 1mm and in the old shaft they are 2mm. The second problem is that the holes for the mills pins is too small to even get the pin started. Got on to Rimmers and they had a look at the stock on the shelf, and they have the same problem and they are getting on to the suppliers on Monday. Deep joy.
What size should the holes be, aprox 1mm or 2 mm.
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Going to order a new shaft and rocker arms with bushes, as its £9 for a new arm with bushes or £3 per bush.. Couple of questions.
Standard shaft, or is it worth paying more for the Tuftrided shaft?
And the same question from above, stick with springs on the shaft or fit the solid spacer kit?
regards Jack
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I have the same noise on mine. Just like tappets, maybe a bit louder. I have tried the screwdriver to the ear and then placing all over the engine. but I cant trace where its coming from. I even started to think it was external to the engine.
Are the spacers kits worth fitting on the rocker shaft, or should I stick to springs, as I will probably just order up a new set of arms and shaft.
regards Jack
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You said turnover was reluctant. Check the lead from your solenoid to starter motor. Mine was slightly loose at the starter motor end, and I had all the symptoms that you are listing. Tightened it up and it was like having a new starter motor. My fuel is over 6 months old and the car started ok.
As others have mentioned, heating the plugs is always a good starting point. I do it on the gas stove.
Regards Jack.
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OK , Head back on and covered the valve gear with lots of oil. Engine started up and i ran it for about 5 minutes. . Good oil pressure about 70 dropping to 50 as engine warmed up. Oil comes out of the holes in the rocker arms, but its more of a dribble than squirting. .It may well be that I just need to go and get it nice and hot and check again as the oil was still not hot and it was about 7C in the garage.
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OK, Thanks, thought I was missing something.
I haven't done them and the car has probably done about 1000 miles since I got it. Last time I did the tappets (probably a year ago) there was plenty of oil around the valves.
I have filled up the oil gallery that runs from the top of the block to the camshaft (rocker oil feed) , the oil runs away slowly while watching.
Jack
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Sorry but could you explain. "Can Bearings in the block" ?
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Thanks guys, I will try again once I get the head back on, Just need to wait for my new mills pins to turn up, so i can put the rockers back on.
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Looks like I may have a problem then.
The head oil way is clear and I have just stripped down the rocker assembly. The manual says that you can remove a screw in the end of the rocker shaft and then clean it out, but mine looks like it has blanking plugs pushed into it at both ends and and no screw (yes I have removed the end caps).. I clan blow air through all the holes in the shaft and rocker arms. The rear pedestal hole is also clear.
Jack
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Just had a problem with top end noise which sounded like an exhaust blowing, but wasn't the exhaust, manifold.
Removed the rocker cover and had the engine running, the noise was a lot louder and stopped when I pulled plug 1, found that the exhaust valve guide on that cylinder was gone and the valve could be moved from side to side, so hope that is the cause of the noise.
I am just about to refit the repaired head, My question is how much oil should I be seeing with the engine running. The car has been sat all winter and their was not a great deal of oil pooled around the valve area, When I was running it with the rocker cover off, I can't say I noticed any oil being sprayed about or anything. What Should I be seeing, should it be just be a dribble of oil from around the rockers?
The oilway in the head is clear to the rocker post and I was getting good oil pressure.
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The original radiator has 20 tubes and 4 lost to the starter handle hole, hence 20%.
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After having my radiator repaired twice allready for leaking around the filler stem, I am considering fitting a new one, as it has just started to leak again. Looking around Rimmers do one for £303 including VAT, but it looks to have the starter handle hole. Has anyone purchased a new radiator lately and what sort of price did you pay. For anyone who has fit an alloy one, do you think paying the extra was worth it.
Totally fed up of taking the front off of this thing, I am off to look for a 2CV
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The tube on the penrite bottle can be screwed into the top cover, and then you can realy squeeze in the lube, which should push it back up the column, past the upper race. Just warm the bottle up first.
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Hi Lou,
'Right and Left' is fine if everybody is pointing the same direction - as you state "sitting in the car".
OS & NS are fine but differ from country to country.
Port & Starboard is far better as Port is always on the left when looking forward.
UNLESS you are on an aircraft carrier when the ship has Port/Starboard but the aircraft have left/right
(According to QI)
Roger
Dont belive everything on QI, Aircraft use Port and Starboard and so does the space shuttle. They even use the same colour lights as ships.
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Do you have the heater fitted, if not this might acount for about a pint of your missing water.
Low port head
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
It's cracked,