[Door Gaps - Dilemma]

Yep

Burn the book

 

 

Hi Neil

 

Understand your sentiments but not sure i can do that...... might be better using you guys on the Forum!

 

Cheers Dave

[Door Gaps - Dilemma]

I'm working on the offside trying to fathom out the best way of sorting the door gap issue.

 

At the top of the door I have a 1/2" gap and at the base of the door its 1/4"; this is after I've jacked the body up off the chassis and slipped in 4 spacers.

 

The rear section of the chassis now exposed below the valance approx 1 3/4"; is this acceptable.

 

The rear wing seems to be reasonably well positioned so there does not appear to be much adjustment available.

 

I know the front wing could be nudged further to the rear to close the gaps but then the front of the wing would not align with the front tip of the bonnet!

 

I've read a section in Roger Williams 'How to Restore a TR4A' (p57).. he talks about cutting all but the top flange of both rear chassis legs for about 50", then jacking up the chassis until the door gaps are correct and then re-welding the chassis. Any thoughts?

 

Dilemma is do I attempt the chassis adjustment/lead load the edges of the doors or jack the body even further (would then have to adjust the bumper stays!)

 

Any ideas anyone.

[Ride height]

Exactly 40cm from wheel center to underside of wheel arch.That is 15.75".

 

 

Georgie

 

Thanks .. would be interested to know where you found this info!

 

David

[Ride height]

Can anyone tell me what the ride height is re the front suspension i.e height from ground to underside of wheel arch)

 

i've firred new standard springs but the gap between top of wheel and u/s arch is 4.25" which looks excessive.

 

I'm using standard wire wheel with 165 R15 tyres.

 

Thanks Dave

[Front Suspension]

Hi Alfred

Thanks for the reply...........yes checked the wishbones they're fitted correctly.

I'll check the stop though...... overlooked the 'adjustable' bit!

[Front Suspension]

Need some help please

 

I've refurbed the front suspension and now attempting to put it all back together!

 

I'm having probs with the top ball joint/vertical link. I've compressed the spring got the tapered pin in the top of the vertical link and checked for free rotation of the link.

 

Problem is, when I release the compression on the spring the link won't rotate;I've also noticed that the steering 'stop' is tight up against the spring plate.....not sure whether this is a problem.

 

Might be something basic that I can't grasp so any suggestions would be welcome.

 

• 
  
• 
  
• 0
  

 

• Back to top
  
• Quote
  
• MultiQuote
  
• Edit
  
• Report
  

 

[Chassis Paint]

I've just stripped the suspension on my TR4a; having de-rusted the parts, can anyone recommend a protective paint treatment. Also would the parts have been matt or gloss?

 

Thanks Dave

[Side/Repeater units]

Hi Dan/Bob

I also read the article in TR mag and understood that the profiling was not as sharp as it should be.

[Side/Repeater units]

Can anyone give an opinion regards the quality of the units that are currently available from our usual parts suppliers.

I notice that prices vary from about £200-£247 depending on the supplier and that the chrome base can't be bought seperately.

[Trunnion Pin]

Hi Bob/Graham

 

Thanks to you both for taking an interest; yes its a 4A.

 

I'll try applying heat to the trunnion - I'm quite useful with the big hammer.

 

Thanks

 

David

[Trunnion Pin]

I'm rebuilding the front suspension and have come to a bit of a full stop.

 

I've bought a trunnion refurb kit but the original bolt/pin is seized; I've used plenty of WD and Plus Gas etc but don't seem to be having much success.

Has anyone had this problem - don't particularly want to have to buy new trunnions.

[Suspension]

I'm renewing the suspension on my 4A and looking for advise re bushes, shock absorbers and springs. Don't do competition work just normal road use.

I've heard that nylon bushes give a hard ride - not sure whether thats true or not.

Any advice welcome.

[TR4A Front Springs]

As you look at the picture, the two nuts together on the left are locked together above the large washer on the top of the turret once you put the threaded bar up through after you have removed the shocker. The angle plate sits between the four studs under the spring pan and the tube and then the large washer go on next to give you clearance to work below the trunnion with the lower nut being held with a spanner whilst you use a socket drive on the two locked together nuts on the top. This means you can use the compressor on a fully built car. Once assembled through the spring wind the compressor up until the suspension starts to approach the point where the lower arms are nearly horizontal. This is so you can remove the inner nuts on the lower spring pan easily as they are clear of the chassis by then.

Stuart.

 

Thanks Stuart - I've made the spring compressor and it works a treat; one more q if thats ok. On lower wishbone, as well as the bolts, there is a stud (item 45 of Fig 5 in suspension section of w/shop man)can't seem to remove the nut without the whole thing turning- there seems to be a rubber 'bing' on the upper surface of the wishbone. Don't want to force it out without knowing a bit more about it.

Regards, David

[TR4A Front Springs]

As you look at the picture, the two nuts together on the left are locked together above the large washer on the top of the turret once you put the threaded bar up through after you have removed the shocker. The angle plate sits between the four studs under the spring pan and the tube and then the large washer go on next to give you clearance to work below the trunnion with the lower nut being held with a spanner whilst you use a socket drive on the two locked together nuts on the top. This means you can use the compressor on a fully built car. Once assembled through the spring wind the compressor up until the suspension starts to approach the point where the lower arms are nearly horizontal. This is so you can remove the inner nuts on the lower spring pan easily as they are clear of the chassis by then.

Stuart.

 

 

Thanks a lot Stuart I'll give it a go.

 

regards

David

[TR4A Front Springs]

Hi Stuart

 

Thanks for taking the time and trouble to post the pic of the home made compressor; at the risk of seeming an idiot can you explain where the components fit relative to the spring. I assume that the angle bracket fits under the spring - what about the 'tube' member.

 

Thanks David

[TR4A Front Springs]

I'm wanting to renew the front springs but don't want to go to the expense of buying the TR spring removal tool.

 

Can anyone out there advise me how to remove the springs without this tool.

 

Thanks David

[Soft Top]

Anyone know how to clean the perspex windows - not really scratched or turned 'yellow' but slightly opaque. Have used soap and water to no avail, even tried a bit of meths in a descrete corner.

[Jaeger Speedo]

No experience of them, but this is one company

 

http://www.jdo10.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/page2.html

 

Mal thanks for the info - I'll give them a try.

David

[Jaeger Speedo]

Are you sure it is the speedo at fault? It's often the cable or the drive out of the gearbox.

Is the needle stuck on zero or part-way round the dial?

Try a spare known working speedo if you can borrow one.

Otherwise, JDO are reliable (Lynda's TR4A has one rebuilt by them) and many others have used Speedy Cables.

 

Hi Brian: t yes he needle is at zero - I will check with a spare as you suggest, but thanks for the info.

Regs

Dave

[Jaeger Speedo]

My speedo has seized; anyone out there know of anyone who can refurb

Thanks

[Sidelight and speedo failure]

Can anyone help with this little problem.

Suddenly my sidelights (front and rear) are'nt working; indicators aand brake lights ok

I did have the petrol tank off and forgot to to connect the earth tab - did this thinking it would solve the problem but no luck.

Fuses all OK

Then the speedo needle won't register.

 

Can't understand whats happening!!

 

Any ideas??

[Steering Wheel]

I have done a few steering wheels and after buying a very expensive kit from Eastwood to refinish them I gave up with it and use ordinary body filler for any cracks and then prime and paint with ordinary cellulose black. My 4a wheel has lasted for 15 years done like that and still looks as good as new.

Stuart

 

 

Hi Stuart

Thanks for the reply. I don't suppose you can recall what primer you used can you and the name of the cellulose?

 

Many Thanks

 

Dave.

[Steering Wheel]

Thanks for the post: can you recall whose paint you used?

 

Cheers

 

 

David

[Steering Wheel]

Hi Richard

 

Thanks for the contact - I'll give them a call

 

Cheers

 

David

[Steering Wheel]

Hi

 

Ive just bought an original steering wheel for my TR4A -well it looks original!! (16" dia)

 

Has anyone ever renovated an old steering wheel.

 

Would welcome members advice/experiences of how they tackled it - I know there are steering wheel renovating packs available but not sure how succesful they are.

 

Thanks

 

Dave