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theredtr6

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Posts posted by theredtr6

  1. Hi Fireman,

     

    Thanks for the suggestion - While Im not sure - I believe that the spacer conversions DONT replace the end springs on the TR6 they just replace the intermediate arrangement with the long conventional coil springs - but I am happy to be wrong if anyone could confirm than I have the answer :-) to the problem

     

    Steve

  2. Hello again Forum,

     

    So reaching out for some TR intelligence on the latest 'issue' on my refresh rebuild- On teardown 20years after my original rebuild .....I noticed that the Rocker shaft seemed worn in spots and also the rockers were not as nice and easy to rotate as the should be more than likely this will have caused by the old culprit of oil starvation to furthermost rockers I had decided to replace my rocker shaft and rockers, and over winter acquired a set of MOSS 'bushed' rockers thinking that these would be a good upgrade from my exisiting original type 'plain' rockers. So tonight I started to transfer over my pedestals, springs etc and put together the new assembly - Falling at the first hurdle Im afraid ...Looking at the first rocker (no12) which is cylinder number 6 where the oil feed comes up .... it is located in the end pedestal and has a 'spring' washer to locate it inbetween the pedestal mounts - same as the other end of the shaft with rocker no 12 or 1 depending on your counting - So the issue is this - The rockers should be absolutely beautifully smooth on that shaft offerring minimum stress back down into the cam and it is until you put in that spring washer it then becomes a massive friction - Now with my vernier guage I measure 2.2mm (sorry for metric) clearance between the rocker end and the pedestal and while its difficult to compress that spring washer with a vernier its almost an interference fit and causing severe friction between rocker and pedestal - Now trying my old rocker in place its slightly better but still not satisfactory - so this issue has been there on my first rebuild and perhaps 'normal' I have no idea why i didnt spot it 20 years back ...- However my question is this has anyone ditched these spring washers and either got some other washer or shimming arrangement to reduce this - Or perhaps rubbed down the faces of the pedestals ...Anyone been here before ?

     

    www.mytr6.co.uk

     

    Thanks

     

    Steve

  3. Hi Rien,

     

    Thank you that is exactly the sort of info I am looking for - So Moss lightened followers are off my list now -

     

    On the followers with a drain hole - I think the concept is simple and a good one re cam lube - someone told me they are weakened with this relatively minor hole - I notice that TR Enterprises do these - I will ask them who supplies them -

     

    Re the lube - O yes I agree with that..

     

    Thanks

     

     

    Steve

  4. Hello Forum,

     

    Well the cold weather has put my rebuild enthusiasm on ice for a few weeks but now im off and running again - So having just got my block and crank back from the shop Im turning my attention to the parts of the engine I will replace - Cam Followers - now does anyone have an opinion here on

     

    1) Standard kit

    2) standard with hole to allow oil drain

    3) Moss lightened followers..

     

    So like most people I understand that its good to have light and strong followers so with that basic principle anybody got anything postive or negative to say re these three variants or any others?

     

    Thanks

     

    Steve

     

    www.mytr6.co.uk

  5. Hello again - Thank you again Gents for the responses and also the very generous offer of the hoist etc from PJ - See PM - The engineering task of bonnet removal is not a challenge its simply the hassle of a two person job and the storage and fanatical refit to obtain the bonnet lines etc... I have decided to try and sit back over Xmas and whilst rebuilding suspension during the free time available reflect on if I really want to remove the engine or not.....It just cries out to removed sitting within that expanse of open space

     

    The comment regarding having the engine in front of me to tinker with measure and no doubt further ponitificate on removing caps to check bearings is exactly the dilemma - I have little doubt that the very OCD that started with simple road spring replacement and has got me here - could with engine removal find me right at the end decided for or against throwing in a rebore -simply because its in front of me and I definately WILL NOT be doing this again ....and of course with the engine out well maybe better spruce up the engine bay with a paint refresh ....and so it goes .....on and on and on -

     

    Happy Xmas !

  6. Hi Ron,

     

    Yep - I have been considering this but never having taken an Engine out with a hoist - I really dont know if its a tricky job or not - My original rebuild was from scratch...I did wonder how 'manageable' the engine on a hoist is and accidentally hitting the bonnet/baulkhead/wings - Just have no experience on this...Sure if its tricky then questioned answered

     

    Thanks

  7. Hello,

     

    So my 20 year rebuild refresh is getting out of hand anyone interested please visit www.mytr6.co.uk

    Its one of those things which started as a cosmetic refresh and you may recognise the OCD symptoms..."Well i have come this far so I may as well do this etc etc "

     

    Anyway so here we are now with the suspension removed, the diff removed, the gearbox removed, the cylinder head removed, the steering rack removed, the rad removed - There is not a lot left !!!

     

    So the dilemma is this - I am now contemplating that instead of struggling under the car to get the sump off and manipulating jacks and supports and the old bones complaining about crawling around on a concrete floor - Will I just be done with it and just take the engine out now !!

     

    So it seems and easy question and given the now open engine bay it is absolutely a no brainer in some way - However I would have to hire/buy a hoist and i dont have a lot of room in the garage now and it would mean faffing about with the jack under the engine also an area that I dont want to contemplate is removing the bonnet - Dont ask why I just dont - for storage - for assistance to do it - for refit - A number of reasons - Yes yes mark the hinges for refit - Aware of all that - But I just really dont want to do it...

     

    To the question -

     

    Has anyone tried to remove engine only - without cylinder head - without removing the bonnet - using a modern hoist - Is it possible ??

     

     

    Thanks

  8. Hello again,

     

    I have already got an alloy cover fitted to my car - However It has always to my mind been a somewhat imperfect design and fit - a) because there is inclined to be a weep from the joint where the filler neck enters into the housing and B) also anytime I have had the cover off its been a frustrating slow job getting that * gasket to sit uniform around the base - Soooo i have decided that along with all the other new bits I'm buying over Xmas I will secure a new cover -

     

    I recall that long time ago at an International weekend I saw a cover that had a rubber ring type seal seated into a groove and this struck me as a great solution at the time the only reason why I didnt buy was because I really didnt like the more rounded style of the cover my existing unit having a more sharper edged look - Anyway I wondered if anyone knows of these designed covers and where I can get them and if your experience has been positive or not - Thanks

     

    Steve

  9. Well hello forumites - Ponder on this if you will and welcome your responses - So I rebuilt my whole car about 20 years ago and at that time it was a complete ground up nut and bolt jobbie - Have the website and the pictures ...anyway 20 years on I have decided to do a refresh as I have a few niggles that I want to sort ...It started off that I was just going to take down the suspension have the springs recoated and replace the adjustables - Anyway it has mushroomed as these things do and Im now exploring oil leaks and have decided just to pull out the diff /OD and gearbox - Not just quite there yet but thats another story - At the age of 53 I also have 2 young girls 7 and 5 that require shipping to parties and ballet and other such activities ....anyway the jist of the question is that I have like most cars have drips from the bellhousing - So we all know that this will be the rear seal (actually it could also be the oil gallery plug but I doubt that) and so my simple question is this ......and this needs to be based on actual experience plse ...My recall of 20 years ago when building on the bench and not in -situ seems to have me questioning why this cannot be replaced with gearbox out but engine in place....All my manuals and also threads I have looked at suggest that the engine needs to be out but I dont think so...

     

    Logic being that the flywheel is of course accessible when box /clutch is out and following removal the engine plate ( maybe thats the issue ? It cant be removed?) and thereafter the seal housing is accessible of course removing the two sump bolts which thread into into it ...Teeerrahhh...

     

    What am I missing?

     

    Thanks

  10. Guys,

     

    Hugely appreciative of the responses -

     

    Note The battery looks the business and I will have a look down at my local halfords.

     

    Regarding the bonnet catch plate - well I have to admit I was not actually meaning this type of release I was meaning with the auxiliary cable - However this is a much better option BUT its not stainless...I'm sure what I saw was stainless and had the two cables linked onto a single pivot- Now if I can locate the stainless catch plate then I will get a stainless lever made as per this template - BUT where is the stainless original?? Mystery deepens- Soemone must have seen them apart from me?

     

    Thanks

  11. Hi,

     

    TR6 - Wonder if anyone can help me please, I recall seeing at the international weekend someone selling the bonnet catch plate which of course bolts on the bulkhead which was manufactured in stainless and also had the auxiliary cable for standby release in the event of failure- However at the time I did not take any contact detals - Anyone advise plse?

     

    Also looking for some steer regarding a replacement battery - Sadly I had my very expensive genuine 70's look battery linked up to a conditioner for the past year and it appears to have overheated and is now gassed (unfortunate choice of terms) however I just want to get a good reliable unit locally or via mail order which will do the job- Any good experiences to report?

     

    Thanks

     

    Steve

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