jmarm
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Posts posted by jmarm
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I would appreciate some help with the following two topics
1) During my recent shake down trials I have en-counted a clutch hydraulic problem which is to be resolved with new master and slave cylinders. Should the mounting lugs on the slave cylinder body be on the engine side of the bracket or on the bell housing side of the mounting plate. My Haynes clearly shows it on the bell housing side but I seem to recall when I tried to fit it this way the threaded plunger arm passed to far through the yoke bracket.
2) I have fitted a rack and pinion steering mod which is based on a tr7 rack. the system give me beautiful steering but when I release the steering wheel it tends to want to go left. under normal driving the car behaves fine and I am not aware of any undue pressure. Tyre pressures and tracking have been checked and found to be correct. incidently the car is fitted with wires.
Any Ideas please !
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Many thanks for the prompt and useful replies. It would seem I should not need to buy anything on Sunday. The various details will enable me to sort the gauge. Once again many thanks john Armstrong
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With the show on Sunday in mind I wonder if anyone can help me. I am now almost complete with the restoration of my TR3a but am encountering problems with the fuel gauge. The problem I think centers around the sender unit as one minute the tank shows as full the next it is empty. I have installed the correct signal wire and an earth from the tank unit to the body of the car. When the unit is out of the tank I can make it operate but only when the arm is over half way through its arc. The units are those which were in the car when I bought it so I feel they should be correctly matched. Can anyone help please ?
Dash unit is a Jaeger FG2530/20 tank unit FT3331/02
Thanks John A.
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I have, following some instructions that I think came from America, fitted rack and pinion steering to my TR3a. The system is based on a TR7 rack. I am encountering a problem now I am at the testing stage and could do with talking to someone who has also completed this mod. A call on 01257 452257 would be appreciated or an e mail Thanks John A.
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That's the way to do it!
Always works for me, but make sure you start off straight, remember to back-up every few turns and don't go too fast ,otherwise the plastic will melt and clog the therads on the shaft.
To brian and Peejay
I did wonder about this method but felt the internal dia of plastic insert was a tad small but I will re-investigate
Thanks for the help John A.
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John-
I tapped a gearshift knob my father made me a few months ago for my TR3A project - it is a very fine thread, 7/16-32.
Regards,
Randy
Thanks randy I will try John A.
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As the results of my last request were brilliant so I will try another. There is a very fine thread on the top end of my gear lever which I am unable to define. My new gear knob has a plastic insert which requires tapping hence the query.
John A.
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I think you will find they are No10 unf * 32 tpi (10-32tpi) NOT 2BA
Cheers
Peter W
Thanks Peter I can now cross that job of my endless list!!
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I've just checked mine and I'd say they were 2BA
Ash
SORRY ASH THEY ARE NOT 2BA BUT I NOW HAVE THE INFO THANKS
JOHN A
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Can anyone tell me the screw size used to mount the rear view mirror on my 1962 TR3a.
Thanks John A
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sorry Menno cannot make the picture out at all John
I received my Sony Bloggie mini camera today and this is my first attempt. No hidden Attenborough, I'm sure... Perhaps this answers your question. Click on the picture. Let me know if it works!
Menno
EDIT: buffering will take some time on various computers. (It's 18.6 MB)
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According to the Moss catalogue the heater hoses on the TR3a are identical. The outlet from the tap on the offside is much higher than the connecting point on the bulkhead. Fitting the hose as supplied creates a restriction in the pipe. Has anyone dealt with this problem and what was the solution Thanks
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I'd be very surprised if you can find any seat that will give you
more leg room.
After all, the TR3A seat back is quite thin and close to vertical.
The late-style body with squared floor will always be a restriction.
It's easier with the earlier style body. I used to slide the seat
right back, off the end of the slides (with a packer under the seat
base) and only then did I have enough leg room.
MX5 seats are a popular choice as an alternative but I can't see then
giving any more leg room. In fact, I would expect less. It's not just
the squared rear floor that you would have to worry about, but the
MX5 seats are wider, I think, at the wheelarch so that would become
an additional restriction.
AlanR
Thanks guys I suppose it is not leg room I needed it is my desire to have the steering wheel a little further from my chest. I can manage if I have to Cheers John
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I am sure someone will have asked this question but here goes. I am wondering about changing the seats in my TR3a to another type, has anyone any suggestions? I am a tall guy and would like a little more leg room in order to increase the distance between my chest and the steering wheel. Mine is a late 3a and at present I have the original seat back touching raised cross piece at the back of the seat.
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Thanks Malcolm That is the article
Probably not exactly what you'r looking for but there's an article in the technical section of the Red Rose group website.
Not service instructions, but does include an exploded diagram and tuning advice.
Worth a look anyway!
Malcolm
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I would appreciate a little help. Sometime last year I think there was an article on the forum about servicing Armstrong Shock Absorbers.I did actually copy the item but have completely mislaid my copy. I seem totally unable to work the search facility and furthermore I have no idea how to search for any archived items. can anyone recall the item and advise me thanks JMARM
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Frank Thanks for your reply Being a LHD car the area round the servo certainly looks very full. My TR3a space is quite adequate Thanks for your interest JOHN A
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Thanks for your reply will look this afternoon John A.
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As part of my restoration work on a TR3a I want to install a servo unit. I have just final fitted my main body section and am looking for advice on the location of such unit. To the Left hand side of the engine above the petrol pump is one possible location or alternatively mounted underneath the body body on the drivers side in the region of the petrol tank and adjacent to the three way brake connector. Any comments or suggestions welcome Thanks
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Robsport speak in riddles first comment was..wouldn't fit a second hand part then quotes me for both new and s/h.
I have located a lad in lancs who can help me thanks to both of you for replying John A.
Hi John,
If Alec cant find any, Robsport must have loads as I spotted a few in a car about to be weighed in for scrap at the weekend,
Cheers
Ian
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I am looking for a used lower steering arm from a TR7 in order to modify my TR3a steering Can anyone help please. I am located in south Lancs but am travelling to Oxford this weekend tel 01257 452257
The part number in Rimmers Cat is TKC1084 Thanks John Armstrong
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Speedy Cables based in Swansea refurbish classic instruments. I have no idea how much. I'm just a happy customer
TT
Thanks Tony will speak to them John A.
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Hi 'jmarm'- I had my machinist buddy cut and weld the upper arms from my 3B, to give 1.5 deg neg camber, based on dimensions given in one of the tips books...(can't recall which one and how much we removed, but it's not a lot). Anyway, after a long delay, I'm back to restoring the car and have installed Revington's front suspension kit and R&P steering, instead. Net result is that I have a set of arms I'd be happy to send you if you'll cover the cost of shipping and tell me where you'd like them sent. Let me know and we can swap info in an email. Kevin
Kevin, It is a pity you do not have that dimension or cannot remember which book the detail is in. We have shortened the upper fulcrum pins giving 1deg approx I think I will pass on using your arms as the alteration is fairly easy to do. Just to avoid complication my pal and I are working on 2 TR3A,s
I
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9/9
Sir
For what it is worth, Revington TR (UK) sells a kit that allows you to slide the Arms forward or back for positive or negative camber, a bit expensive and requires spot welding after adjustment is obtained. And there is an individual (Gary Horstkorta) here in the USA that makes infinately adjustable arms using your old arms with hemi-joints welded in. You can check them out at flyingbrickproducts@comcast. net or vintage.racer@comcast.net
Regards, Dan Cronin
Dan, I cannot open Flying brick nor see anything relevant on vintage.racer We have shortened the existing upper fulcrum arms by 6mm and re-built . this seems to give 1deg which is an improvement
JOHN A
Brakes and steering
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
:rolleyes:Thanks for your replies I understand the steering reply but the location of the slave cylinder still confuses me. The car is fitted with Discs on the front so it may be necessary to shorten the push rod. I cannot understand why this should be necessary unless Moss or other suppliers sell 2 different Cylinders
Thanks John A