GoGuy
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Posts posted by GoGuy
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Nothing wrong with that colour and not that far off from one or two of the obscure 1 yr only blues that Triumph used originally.
Stuart.
Hi Stuart,
Thanks for your professional input. I must admit that I was tempted to pen a suitable retort to the original critic, as I was certain that a mid-blue had been offered by Triumph in the mid-fifties. I was not able to source a colour swatch, so picked the mid-blue Azure as a best shot. I considered Apple Green, but my wife is from Grimsby!- (Bad luck for trawlermen!) Regards GoGuy
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See revised ad. in For Sale section for a real bargain!
Regards
GoGuy
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See revised ad. for my 3 in 'For Sale' section, with updated info. and REDUCED PRICE!
Thanks
GoGuy
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Hi,
Use the gearlever from a Triumph 2000/2500 saloon, but you will need to shorten it to suit. Worked fine on a 6 that I had. However, an overdrive logic box from Revington is a better bet in my opinion and is easier to use, but a more costly option.
Regards
GoGuy
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And oil! which is the actual question?
Providing the units are in useable condition - no leaks visible - try draining off the existing oil and re-filling with Penrite No. 2. This should give a firmer ride. Certainly it improved my 6 and for a very cheap outlay.
GoGuy
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I have just sucessfully sorted out this problem on my TR3. I bonded a sheet of 1mm thick aluminium to the whole centre section using Tiger seal adhesive. Ensure that the underside of the bonnet is de-greased and clean metal.
Fix the aluminium with the shiniest side visible, so that engine heat is reflected back - looks good too!
GoGuy
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Hi,
Thanks to all those who replied - just going into the garage armed with tape measure and drill!
GoGuy
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Hi All,
My TR3 is being re-sprayed tomorrow and I have a problem with the positioning of the badge. The area under the badge was corroded, so it was cut out and re-plated. In so doing, the exact original position of the badge was lost.
Could some kind person give me a dimension from the top of the 'mouth' to the lower edge of the badge?
Thanks
GoGuy
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Where abouts are you based. I'm tempted. Have a wood rim mota lita but need it's about to go back into the garage for more work so needs a wheel to get there etc.
Hi, Sounds interesting. Pity I'm not nearer - East Yorks. The Motolita wheel is one that I had in mind, so is of interest. No great hurry, as I am just starting basic prep. for a respray and also have some brake upgrade work to deal with. Hoping to be on the road by the end of July. Let me know if this works in with your plans.
Regards
GoGuy
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Is anyone interested in swapping my good original steering wheel, (no cracks or damage) for a good condition woodrim wheel, complete with boss to accept original indicator/horn assembly? Wheel needs to be 15" diam., flat and preferably with holes rather than slots, in nice condition. Column is non-adjustable type, by the way. Cash adjustment either way, if necessary, depending on quality of item offered.
GoGuy
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Hi Peter,
Ivor (88V8) swore by it. Apparently it works very well. As to where you buy it that is another problem.
Roger
Usually stocked by any good caravan accessories dealer - very effective product!
GoGuy
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I have just bought a TR3, in good running order, but in need of some correction to panels and a respray. The main problem is that the front cowl is from a 3a.
A long shot, but has anybody got a TR2 or 3 front cowl in decent order to swap for my 3a version?
Thanks
GoGuy
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This is what I keep in my 4 (as found in my dad's garage many years ago). Fits under quite nicely. Not exactly sure what it's from but a bit of research suggests it might have been a 50's Morris GPO van.
Widely issued with Landrover Series vehicles. Excellent stable jack made by Shelley, using a long bar and wooden though handle to operate. Check Ebay under Landrover Series spares. Usually some every month at around £20 or so - sold one myself a couple of months ago.
GoGuy
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Guy
Hope and trust you are keeping well... I had the three K&N's on my car for approx a couple of years - I did not notice any issues with the potential 'hot air' being used being directly above the exhaust manifold; my thoughts (as on an earlier post) were that once the car was moving at speed, cooler air would be available and it would only be in slow/stationary traffic that the hot air would be taken in... Does this actually matter? Possibly/probably not at these slow road engine speeds. That is not to demean the merits of a good cold air feed from the grill area, just that from my experience with the three K&N's did not appear to cause any issues at all in normal circumstances.
I only returned back to the original set up when the car was used on a photo shoot and I never put the three filter set-up back on - I decided to sell them as I reckoned they would only sit in a cupboard...
Cheers
Ian
Hi Ian,
Good to hear from you - hope the move from Yorkshire hasn't depressed you too much!! As you may remember, I' m a bit of a Weber fan, but I thought I would try to stick with the PI this time and see what could be done to improve things. I have no wish to go all radical and start messing with fancy injection systems etc., but simply try to eradicate,or ease, simple basics such as air temperature and intake imbalance.
I have come to the conclusion that the removal of the plenum and providing air-flow via K&N fliters must give some advantage, if only by virtue of equal air intake.The provision of cold air - which I already have via a direct 100mm feed- is a must and the reduction of warm air into the cylinders can be much improved by manifold wrapping or a manifold blanket, together with a good heat shield carried through to the radiator to keep warm air the engine side of the shield. The removal of the fan and provision of an electric 'pusher' fan on the nearside of the radiator should also help.
I don't expect a dramatic increase in power, but merely to know that I have optimised the arrangement is sufficient benefit in itself.
GoGuy
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Guy,
If you can provide that cold air feed, great, but so many fall at that fence and don't bother.
I attacked the equal air problem by making the plenum tube twice as wide, as well as adding a K&N-type cone filter, rather than the 'dustbin'. Either style of filter makes it much easier to get that cold air!
John
Hi John,
Interesting approach to the problem! I am seriously considering using triple K&N R-0990 filters, which should address the equal air problem, as well as wrapping the exhaust manfold and fixing a heat shield. I could also make the cold air ducting more efficient - possibly by using an electric duct fan. The total removal of the plenum also makes access to the throttle linkage-(CP underslung)- much easier.
Regards
Guy
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Hi all,
I am considering modifying the air intake provision on my CP model PI. I removed the original mini-dustbin arrangement last year and fitted a large cone type Ramair filter to the plenum end. I also provided a 4" dia. cold air feed to the front of sald filter. Whilst this set-up seems OK, I am concerned that the air available to the rearmost throttles is likely to be less than the feed to the front throttle body and probably warmer too.
Can anybody recommend the removal of the plenum tube and replacing with 3 separate K&N,or similar, filters, again with a cold air feed, so that a more equal air supply is provided?
On previous 6's I have installed 40DCOE Webers. As I was using a Cannon inlet manifold with long intakes, I was not able to fit K&N filters, so used ram-pipes with fine screen mesh to keep out the more damaging particles. Perhaps a similar set-up could be used on the throttle bodies?
Any comments or recommendations would be appreciated.
Regards
GoGuy
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My engine clatters very badly on initial start up when cold and when idling at the end of a run when hot. Oil pressure is good, and it has a spin on oil filter. Any ideas of the possible causes?
Hi,
Check your flywheel for loose bolts - I speak from bitter experience!!
Good luck
GoGuy
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A really stupid question. Having finally come to the stage in my restoration of fitting the seats back in the car ( original tr6 seats ) I find I cannot push the seats back far enough on the runners. The reclining handle/seat holder are hitting the b post. What am I doing wrong. I have tried swapping the seats so the handles are on the tunnel side but this seems to cause problems with the seat belts.
Can anybody offer any advice. My car is a 1975 model
Thanks Andy Taylor.
Hi Andy,
Use the front bolt hole on the outside mounting bracket and the rearmost hole on the inner mounting. This will slew the seat position such that the recliner handle passes the B post.
Regards
GoGuy
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What we have all been doing is getting a spare plug and joining the gauge to it with an adaptor.
The plug also retains the sping and plunger so I dont think you can simply screw a gauge in directly.
Hi Alan,
Thanks for that suggestion - seems like a sensible solution.
Regards
GoGuy
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Be in here along with loads of other useful stuff:
Hi Alan,
Sadly the info. is not clear in their Part 4 - it only refers to an adapter they made to fit another adapter previously fitted! I know that I have seen the info. I'm looking for some time ago on this TR Reg. site, but so far can't turn it up.
Regards
GoGuy
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Time to sort out my non-operating A type overdrive. Can anybody confirm the size and thread type necessary to connect a suitable pressure gauge so that I can confirm what, if any, pressure I'm getting? If that turns out to be OK, then I can work my way through all the other suspect areas.
Thanks
GoGuy
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I am in the process of rebuilding and uprating my 6 suspension. Check out Rimmers price for a pair of Koni front shocks - £195 delivered! That is virtually the same price as Moss are charging for a pair of Spax, not including delivery.Moss are also listing Koni at £144.95 each, plus delivery!
It pays to do a bit of research on larger items - my Konis are due for delivery tomorrow!
Happy GoGuy
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Hi,
Can someone please confirm the correct strobe timing for a standard CP engine? Is it 8
degrees BTDC or 11 @ 850 rpm?
Thanks
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I'm still on the lookout for an indoor carcoon, but would just like to check that the size 3 is suitable? it's described as "MGB size" so should fit a '6 but just wanted to make sure it would be ok? anyone?
Thanks
Simon
Hi Simon,
Be aware that Carcoon offer two 'Size 3' items. Their size 3 Large will be OK for a 6 at 4.25 M, but only by about 20Cms, the smaller 4.0M item is definately too small. That's why I just sold my 4.0M size 3!
GoGuy
Air Filters
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi Marc,
I did this conversion 2 years ago. There were some concerns being expressed regarding the possible starvation of air to the rear-most cylinders when the standard plenum set-up was used, and the fitting of triple K & N filters seemed a logical way of solving this. I fitted a 4" dia. cold air feed pipe to the front grille directing the flow across the filters. Heat wrap around the exhaust manifold greatly reduced the under-bonnet temperature. The air-flow valve is fitted with a small 2" dia. filter. A further refinement could be a heat shield across the exhaust manifold, if there are still concerns regarding temperature.
The installation looks neat and tidy and improves under-bonnet access to some degree. I cannot claim a noticeable gain in power, though the induction roar is more purposeful! I also sold the plenum and rubber feed pipes on Fleabay, so the conversion cost was more than halved!
Regards
GoGuy