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Posts posted by Mike Graham
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Don’t see a posting about this sad news. Charles Runyan of TRF passed away this past weekend. A great loss to all Triumph enthusiasts.
https://www.indianagazette.com/news/...0f2029c1e.html
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I got tired of mine flapping even with all the stock bits used. I bought a piece of foam insulation meant for 3/4 inch water pipes. It is about 4 ft long and about 2 inch in diameter and quite pliable. I stuff it in with the flap and it holds everything snug. Doesn’t hurt anything and can’t be seen. Cheers, Mike
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Many thanks for sharing. Cheers, Mike
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Thanks very much for sharing! Cheers, Mike
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13 hours ago, Lebro said:
What a great find.
I don't suppose you would consider scanning the whole thing so we could all have a copy !
Bob.
Yes, I am sure a number of us would be interested in a scanned copy of both booklets mentioned in this thread. Cheers, Mike
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Thanks for sharing. Cheers, Mike
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Hi Keith ... glad it worked out for you. Enjoy your drive! Cheers, Mike
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Gosh, and I thought I had stuff I'd forgotten about ... nice find! Cheers, Mike
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Had similar issues bleeding the clutch. Tried everything suggested here with no luck. What I found to work was to create a dummy top plate with a air valve in it. I applied a little pressure with a hand bicycle pump. Once there was some pressure, opened breed screw and out came the fluid. Once you do that problems are gone. I must have spend 2 weeks fiddling with this before I decided to take a new approach. Good luck and let me know if you need more details. Cheers, Mike
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I’d just be happy you seem to have found the fault. Cheers, Mike
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My backing plates (early 56 TR3) had provision for springs but none came with car. I added some after much debate. Here is a link (https://photos.app.goo.gl/EJWNt4m6SDWmXVVs8) to a picture of my backing plate showing part number and spring attachment point. Also page from parts catalogue showing how parts changed over time. Yellow mark shows wear I was worried about in case springs were causing issue after installation. Cheers, Mike
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Nice ... wonder if they will make their way to Canadian market? Cheers, Mike
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Thanks for the links. Bob, interesting that your controller failed too. Perhaps an issue they are not acknowledging. Cheers, Mike
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Rod, does someone sell a pipe with the thermo switch attached, or do you mean you can add one yourself? Bought a Revotec fan kit via Rimmers and the thermo switch quit working after about 500 miles. Revotec is not willing to replace switch so looking at other alternatives. Meanwhile, on-off switch under dash works fine. Cheers, Mike
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This is sad news indeed. First met Don online while restoring my 56 TR3. During the restoration Don "dropped in" to our home in 2011 to see how the restoration was going and to give me a ride in his 58 TR3 to "encourage" me with my work. Later I met him at several British car shows and we always had great visits together. He was always engaging and helpful. A real loss within the TR3 world. Here is a picture from 2015 when our TR3s were together in Ottawa. Cheers, Mike
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Hi Rod
Here is a table I put together when trying to sort out brake lines on my early TR3 (with Lockheed brakes) with Goodridge. Not sure they are the same as TR2, but perhaps this will help.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4IFCEBJqw2GDNMH83
Cheers, Mike
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Not a 3A, but I added DRLs a couple of years ago to my TR3. Mounted a couple of LED strips (from China on eBay) to a piece of flat aluminum stock and wired to come on with ignition. Acts as badge bar for our club badge as well. Not a great picture, but only one I can find right now. The LEDs are pretty bright head-on and of course draw very little current. Cheers, Mike
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Some additional discussion here if you are interested
In any case, definitely some push rods exist with different size holes.
Cheers, Mike
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The holes on the push rods of my very early 56 TR3 had unthreaded holes of different diameters. I was unable to find any clevis pins from the usual sources to fit properly. I ended up buying some SS clevis pins and had them machined at a local shop to the correct stepped diameters. You are not the first to run into this issue. I was involved in a discussion on another forum about this very issue. Hope this Google picture link works.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/OjNhSJ0u1Tnw5UMy2
Cheers, Mike
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You are welcome Alan. Hagarty Insurancce has also published a very useful series of articles by Rob Seigel on various aspects of vintage car electrics. I included them as technical articles on our website (http://www.ovtc.net/technical-articles.html). Links to the original posting are included in all articles. You may find these to be useful as well. Cheers, Mike
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Here is the link to using a multimeter if anyone else wants to have a look. Cheers, Mike
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Nice pictures. Really like the head-on one. Cheers, Mike
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Careful filing of the cable part of the angle drive seems to have worked for the time being by reducing the size of the square cable. Will see how long that lasts. AlanT's solutions seems like the best option.Cheers, Mike
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Hi Bob. Thanks for the reply. Sorry my reply caused confusion as I was not clear what car I was talking about. The OD is in my TR6 not my TR3. Would be nice to not use AD, but too tight turn in TR6. When I get my A type back together plan to add to my TR3. Cheers, Mike
Sad News
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Thanks John. I tend to stick to the TR3 part of the forum. Cheers, Mike