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Mike Graham

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Posts posted by Mike Graham

  1. Working on body of 56 TR3. The area around the hole for the gas tank filler feels like it has a even depression around it. Is that how it is supposed to be, or should it be flat and smoothed out? I'm guessing flat and smooth, but would like confirmation. Cheers, Mike

  2. I contacted Mark at Macy's garage to ask if they had the grill surround and also to let him know about the one now provided by Moss. Here is his reply (copied with his permission):

     

    "I bought one of those surrounds from the UK about a year ago. Moss USA also picked them up soon after that. I can tell you that they don't fit the opening. Tried them on the 5 smallmouth aprons I have here, and they weren't close enough to fit any of them, even with extensive re-work. The mouldings are shaped wrong so that they won't lay into the openings as they should, and they are short of tucking into the 4 corners by 3/8 to 1/2 inch in each one. Plus, the profile is way off as they are flat on the top surface for most of the width. I sent mine back, and should you decide to try them you should probably budget for shipping in both directions."

     

    This is not meant to any way to be a negative thread about this Moss product, rather I'm sharing these comments to be informative and to seek further input from others who may have had more success with this surround. I'd like to order it, but if it is not likely to fit I don't wish to go through the frustration and cost of shipping the part back and forth across the Atlantic.

     

    Anyone had good experience with this part or come up with an other solution to the surround?

     

    Cheers, Mike

     

    FYI ... it appears Macy's has the joint covers and attaching hardware, not the actual surround, at least according to the website:

     

    http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/other_tr2_3_parts.htm#TR3 Grille Moulding Joint Covers

     

    Cheers, Mike

     

  3. I'm missing at least one part of the chrome surrounds on my small mouth (think it is the upper one). I know these parts are NA from regular suppliers. Has anyone managed to fabricate something that works well? Any hints or suggestions most welcome. One option is to finish the front of the mouth smooth when I do the body work. I can always redrill the holes if I come across the necessary parts later. Cheers, Mike

  4. Hi Peter

     

    Not had this specific problem, but with my TR6 it used to jump out of gear (not OD as that was not an OD transmission) when I down shifted into second. I was running redline synthetic fluid and a number of people have encountered similar problems. I wonder if it might be a fluid issue. In my 6 now I have second transmission with a J-type OD using 30 wt non-detergent oil and no more jumping out of gear issues and the OD works fine. Others with more experience may have better suggestions, but changing fluid might be worth a try.

     

    Cheers, Mike

     

    I have read (many times!) the excellent articles on the A Type overdrive on the TR Register Technicalities CD but I am still stumped with finding the answer to my overdrive problem. I have an A Type overdrive mated to a TR4A all synchro box which is fitted into my TR3A. The overdrive was reconditioned by Overdrive Repair Services (Sheffield) in May 2007 and I have been assured by the company which sold the overdrive to me in 2009 that it had only done 50 miles before it was put into my car; it has subsequently covered a further 850 miles.

     

    The overdrive engages in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears but almost immediately disengages of its own accord. I have tested all the electrical circuits and the solenoid is holding the plunger in on 12v load. I have now fitted a pressure gauge to the overdrive which registers 400 psi when running in 2nd gear at about 1500 - 2000 rpm. The pressure drops to 300 psi as the overdrive engages and then quickly recovers to 400 psi but the overdrive does not stay engaged (ie the revs rise to indicate that this has happened)

     

    I have adjusted the isolator switches as per the Triumph workshop manual, adjusted the selector spring locating screws to be flush with the gearbox lid (which has made the gearchange much easier) and adjusted the solenoid operating lever (by putting a 3/16" rod through the lever into the overdrive casing).

     

    I am running out of ideas and before I embark on a gearbox/overdrive out exercise, I would appreciate any thoughts on overcoming my problem.

     

    Many thanks

     

    Peter

     

  5. Did some more research on this and for everyone's information it seems these bolts are 10 x 32.

     

    Cheers, Mike

     

    Anyone know off hand the thread size of the 4 screws that hold the door striker plate on 56 TR3 ... part number 500166 (looks to be about 1/8 inch).

     

    Thanks, Mike

     

  6. If you go down to the bottom of each separate forum there is a blue line that says filter forum options. Click on this and it will reveal how far back you can view post. if you wish to go all the way back then change to view all.

    Stuart.

     

    Thanks Stuart ... that worked great. Cheers, Mike

  7. Thanks Don.

     

    Yes, I was aware of the lack of letters. I think what happened is that in an earlier life the car was in a fender-bender and as part of that work the nose was fiddled with ... the raised portion above the mouth was smoothed out as far as I can tell. That needs be put back to look original. No doubt I will have many questions. Here is one ... does anyone have a picture of the part of the door latch that goes on the post on an early TR3? I have located the chrome parts that attached to the doors but can't see the other parts in my boxes of bits and pieces. A visual guide would be useful. Thanks.

     

    Cheers, Mike

     

    Welcome to the Forum of the TR Register Michael. I have been a paid-up member of the Register for 23 years now. Ask all the questions you have and we'll try to help with our replies.

     

    For what has been done so far, it looks very well done. But before you get the body painted, you will want to MIG weld all the holes across the front apron (valance) because TR3s never had those holes for the letters across the apron. Look at three examples shown here.

     

    They only started putting on the letters with the TR3A in late 1957 when they changed to the wide grille as seen on my 1958 TR3A at Brittania Bay in 2005

     

  8. I have not had a door/boot key for some time. Thanks to this thread, I just noticed that the key codes are on my heritage certificate. Where can the appropriate key blanks be obtained? Do all locksmiths have access to these blanks and then just look up the code in some database to cut the key? Advice from anyone who has gone through this would be appreciated. Cheers, Mike

  9. "It should be on the front facing the starter so it gathers the starter bendix cog into it,otherwise

    it will tend to hammer at it and eventually knock it off like mine had!"

     

    I agree that the ring gear should be faced this way, but I think that they were often installed the opposite way (that is how they are done on the TR4 I believe as the starter pulls "in" to engage rather than "out"). When I rebuilt my engine and transmission, I too made sure the ring was reinstalled the "correct" way with bevel facing the starter. Shortly after I got the car back together the ring gear came off. No damage but quite a clatter. Fortunately, it happen in the driveway. Took the transmission back out, removed the flywheel, reinstalled the ring gear, and took it to a local welder who tacked it in place on the flywheel. I've had not problems since. May not be the ideal solution, but it has worked well and I've not had to take the transmission out again ... other than to install a j-type OD :-)

     

    Cheers, Mike

  10. I have come across a set of seats from a 93 Honda Civic. Has anyone had success fitting these in a TR6? I need to measure them myself but the seller says they are: from base to top of headrest is 38", depth is 23", and width is 20 1/2". How much different is this from the Miata seats in terms of dimensions? Brackets would no doubt have to be custom made to fit tracks. Ideas and sugggestions most welcome.

     

    Cheers, Mike

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