chrisredtr6
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Posts posted by chrisredtr6
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Yep, will do thanks Peter. I need to get myself a fuel pressure testing gauge..
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Thanks Quentin, I'll give this a try - although cannot do until after the weekend as we're away visiting friends.
I checked the vacuum hose to the MU, and it was ok - no splits or anything. I still need to check the fuel pressure - but your method sounds like an option too. I'll PM you for the manual. Thanks for your help!
Cheers,
Chris -
By way of a follow up I think that the PRV is not working correctly - but measuring the fuel pressure is going to be my only way to solve this. I've read quite a few postings on making your own pressure guage - is this still the most cost effective way? Or can anyone recommend a decent off-the-shelf guage that will not break the bank
Thanks again.
Chris
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Hi Peter
Thanks for the reply - I'll take a look and report back
Regards
Chris
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I removed the cover and it all seemed to be moving freely inside, so hopefully corrosion isn't causing a problem here. I've tapped the prv too but still plenty of black smoke. Any other ideas greatly appreciated, regards chris
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Thanks Peter for your reply I will take a look at this.. and report back..
Kind regards
Chris
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Hi Peter
I did check this - and because the cable is a bit on the old side the lever was slightly 'on' giving slightly more fuel so I disconnected it completely (engine was warm) thus the lever returned completely. But I started it again and still the black smoke. It didn't seem to make much difference.. (But I'll be getting a new cable on Monday)
Chris
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Dear forum
I know its been a while but the stale fuel was definitely the culprit. I drained the old fuel out and put a couple of fresh gallons in and it fired right up. So a useful reference for anyone as this is an easy thing to overlook. Thanks for the replies on this.
However whilst it starts no problem now and is firing on all 6, its running far too rich, as its chucking out black smoke and the plugs are blackening straight away. Is there any adjustment with a metering unit? I remember telling Neil Ferguson when he reconditioned it that it was for a 125hp car so I'm assuming it is set correctly. Assuming the metering unit is all good I thought that the rich mixture is perhaps due to lack of air as opposed to too much fuel. So I took off the 'Triumph' embossed inlet manifold to expose the butterfly valves and none of them are jammed or sticking. Is it likely that these now need to be calibrated or adjusted to the new metering unit?
Chris
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Tony,
Thanks for the reply- I think you're right. Oh well at least I don't need to buy any de-greaser for a while..
Chris
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Dear forum,
A bit of expert opinion needed pls.
Car: 1974 CR TR6 with recent Bosch fuel pump and PRV from Moss Europe.
In December 2011 it conked out and after detective work it was time for a recon metering unit, and new injector seals. So replaced these last spring via Neil Ferguson and Chris Witor respectively.
However, due to being too busy and one of the worst summers ever in terms of weather I didn't get the chance to bleed the system correctly and actually get the car started last year.
So, fast forward to the weekend just gone, and the first free weekend I've had for ages I bled at least four of the injectors as per the great instructions on the forum. The car wouldn't quite start though (although very nearly, it was definitely firing)..
The last time I put petrol in it was Dec 2011. Is it likely that the octane levels have dropped over the last 16 months and this is the problem? The tank is nowhere near full btw. I've read lots of stories about unleaded only lasting a few months before causing probs so I'm wondering if this is the culprit?
Thanks all in advance.
Chris
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Thanks all, for £30 its probably worth a pop.
Chris
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Thanks Shezbo for the advice,
Cheers
Chris
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Dear forum
I'm looking to fit an electronic ign to my tr6, and have come across this one.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230502781798&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Has anybody used one of these and would they recommend this particular brand?
The reason I ask is that I was expecting to pay a bit more than £30 although if Accuspark is a good make I will go for this.
Or am I better off spending slightly more on a different brand?
Thanks
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Sorry Bill I was typing my reply when you posted.. Thanks for the advice, Malcolm at www.prestigeinjection.net providfed the answer.
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Wow what a great service. A new No.3 pipe is on its way tonight in the post. The old pipe ends are exchanged for new, total cost about a tenner!
Thanks for the tip
Chris
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I discovered today that I have a broken nylon injector hose (number three) the other 5 all seem sound. I am trying to get hold of (so far in vain) a single replacement pipe for No 3, do you know if this is still available?
Moss Europe sell it by the yard but no stock for 2 weeks, and Rimmer Bros say its no longer available, saying that the only alternative is a set of 6 braided hoses.... Whilst I've no problem with braided hose I don't really want to spend over £100 to replace only one broken plastic pipe..
I asked Rimmer Bros if standard rubber hose (fuel injection grade) would suffice and they said they didn't know. Has anybody here used rubber hose successfully?
Chris
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Thanks for the replies.. I think I need to get my hands dirty!
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I've noticed that the rear axle is leaking on my TR6 and it looks to be the drive shaft oil seal. I've two questions -
Is this a complete axle-out job to get at the seals? (I've not had the TR6 for long and have yet to get my hands on a haynes manual...)
Or better still has anybody used a stop-leak oil in their back axle that works by expanding the rubber seal? I've used this on my volvo in the power steering and it worked fine, but I've not found a product that works for back axles too...
thanks in advance
Chris
Injectors and poss stale petrol
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Thanks Robin - really helpful,
Regards
Chris