shunty
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Posts posted by shunty
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Hi, Have a tr4a that I acquired a few months back, it was partially stripped down, now being re assembled, can anyone out there tell me the correct order of switches for the five holes on the centre dash panel, I think its [starting from the o/s] choke cable,ignition switch, wiper switch, washer pump, and heater fan, ?. trouble is were do the 2 cables go that control the heater flap and the heater valve on the engine. it also leaves a rheostat switch [i think that goes between the speedo and rev counter] as well, but that could be disregarded. any advice/help much appreciated
Regards Derek
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Hi Rich, thanks for the info, yes clips are for sale, make me an offer, I see there available from moss, are the originals better?.
All the bits came from a garage ( not commercial just some ones house literary ) the carbs and manifold con only b e something todo with triumph, jag, Ferrari , or pre bmc . I have 4 dustbin full of bits I think I will empty them out and start again
Regards Derek
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Hi All, thanks for your replies, and thank you Stuart for yours. David if your interested in them they are on ebay, [have been since Sunday] some one on there said they were not triumph which is way I asked the forum.
Once again Thanks to everyone
Regards
Derek
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Hi Pete, no but a new set plastic ones
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Hi all get your thinking caps on , have rebuilt tr and have now done 350 miles. It starts from cold perfect, after a run and the tr is left for 10 mins on start up a mis fire for 10/15 seconds then all okay ( bloody annoying) . Have a new tank, boschfuel system, exchange metering unit, exchange injectors All Fuel system parts new. No water loss. ( thought maybe a crack head)Take out plugs no fuel or water on them. Leave car to get cold engine starts perfect. Any ideas. When you drive it it runs perfect no misfire just as it should.
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Hi snowy, had a problem on no5 backfiring through inlet, tried the usual ,balance , air leaks, comp test all okay finally took head off gasket showing signs of a blow between no 5 and 6 cylinder,( didn't show up on comp test) . Head skim , refit and all okay, hope that helps
Derek
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Hi Conrad, engine was good I only change valves and guides, it had good oil pressure, 107000 miles and used very little oil so best left to something goes, at least you can get at the engine without to much bother.
Hi nuts and bolts £7000, no double it and some.
Derek
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Thanks Guys, and Conrad its a must for a wheel free ramp I wouldn,t have attempted it without one.Just make sure you have some good G clamps to hold the chassis to the ramp arms when you build up the fron suspension. And Pete it was Saffron but have owned the car for 30 years and I like blue so sapphire it was at least it's a colour from that year.
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Hi all, Joys of rebuilding a tr6 part 3, after 18 months and a budget of £7000 ( which went in the first three months, don't ask me how much I've spent). On Monday the hood gets fitted and then down for Mot light adjust, track adjust and on the road for summer?. It's not the best complete overhaul but I've enjoyed doing it and would certainly do another, and for all you people out there rebuilding there cars get stuck in and do it, if I can anyone can. Some photos attached.
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Hi all, cylinder head now back from machine shop (all carried out F O C) although no blame on there original workmanship. Refitted head, cleaned up Rocker cover rough edges, fitted new fuel tank ( aluminium) well second one, the first new leaked at the seam. Connected battery and yes away she went on all six cylinders . Happy Christmas .
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Hi All , Sunday morning my mate Nick turns up to do some upholstery ie rear wheel arches, what a a job, meantime I take of cylinder head off and remove all valves except no 3 which is jammed solid. Question, Having fitted a new aluminium rocker cover and on inspection the inside seems to be very rough on the casting and a lot of jagged edges at oil cap, maybe a bit off swarf from that caused the problem?. Anyhow back to machine shop Monday. Removed fuel tank and yes leak a union around the brazing. anyone know what the aluminium tanks are like, Remington £330, moss £325, tr shop £ £265 are they are made by the same firm? Or are the Remington ones the best.
Hi Paul all I can say is you must have some patience and God luck.
Derek
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Hi Robin, should be back on the road March time , and yes I,m the second bottle of red.
Derek
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Hi all, some of you may know I,m rebuilding my tr6 started last. November and still ongoing, so far so good , all chassis and body shot blasted/ primed, repaired painted, All back together. New fuel system (Bosch) practically new everything, budget gone out the window, start engine everthing fine, all running okay, ten minuets and engine cuts out. Pump stops working, re move pump and test on bench, jammed solid, reverse polarity, pump works, connect up correctly pump works?. Refit to car start engine runs fine, aft ten minuets Rev up engine starts to misfire and sounds like a tr6 diesel. Remove rocker cover no 3 inlet vale jammed open, managed to get collets of and remove spring and find valve is jammed in guide. (This is after head and valve guides have been replaced at much expense). Also have a fuel leak at the tank outlet so tank has to come out again. One consultation at least I.ve found the problems. What i,m getting at is don't let the problems get you down go indoors have a glass of red wine and start again tomorrow. Thank god I.m now retired. Oh buy the the way i,ve just treated myself to a MGRV8 but that's another story
Regards
Derek
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Hi Pete, spring was jammed, as I said good job it was fused,pump reach its limit and fuse went. Joys of owning a tr6
Regards
Derek
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Hi Robin, Thanks for advice but have solved the problem, took out the pressure relief valve strip down and there it was, and old rubber o ring,tucked in the spring [where o where did that come from I've had the car since 1988 and never touched the valve before] cleaned up valve refitted check pressure [160lbs, re adjust to 105lbs] and all working okay.
surprising what a god dinner and nights sleep can achieve?
Regards
Derek
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Hi, I was just about ready to start the tr6 today after a year of complete rebuild and colour change, new bosch fuel system and pipes etc , exchange injectors, refurbished metering unit, decided to connect the new fuel feed wire through a fuse, [thankfully] , turn the ignition on fuel pump runs crank engine [does not start], also pump stops turning. check fuse [blown]? problem. If I disconnect the return pipe from the metering unit there is no fuel going back to the tank. if I disconnect the return pipe at the pressure valve there is fuel coming out.Have fitted a pressure gauge and its showing 105 psi, as soon as it hit that pressure the pump stops working even if I by pass the fuse?
Have now gone indoors for dinner. any suggestions
Regards
Derek
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Very interested give a call on 07850436215
Regards
Derek
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Hi All
anyone any suggestions on replacing or modifying the the springs on the door remote control. Its the one at the end near the door lock,
its on rimmers catologue page 144 no 37 the spring is in front of 41. they are no remotes available unless anyone knows different ?.
Any help appreciated
Regards
Derek
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Hi, Anyone know of a good gearbox repairer ,near Portsmouth/Southampton, I think it's just a bearing noise everything works okay, including over drive. Just noises when you accelerate.
Have completely dismantle the car for a rebuild (by the way it's a 1972 TR 6 CP with A type o/D) . Have owned the car for 25 years thought about time it had overhaul. Believe it or not every nut and bolt came undone
Regards
Derek
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Hi, had the same trouble a while back, trace the fault to the cable to the back of the ign switch that feeds the electronic ignition. the spade connector was okay but the wire to it was broken inside the plasticwhere it was crimeped. took me ages to find, hope this helps. Derek
Switch's on TR4A Dash
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Hi Tim. Thanks for that, will go and find the Facia support frame and hopefully problem solved
Regards Derek Hunt [coincidence same surname]