mckellen
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Posts posted by mckellen
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A brilliant day - thanks Kevin for making it happen.
A couple of snaps from me - too busy driving and queuing to spend much time with the camera. Let me know if anyone would like high-res copies.
...anyone have a pic of PYY 124D or AOR 519B? Would be greatly appreciated.
Phil
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Thanks everyone for the positive responses and the practical advice (PeterW - I would never have thought of that!). I think I will have a go at fitting a new custom loom myself ...time to start planning!
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I have just learned (or rather been forced to accept!) that the wiring in my car is not all that it should be and will need some overhauling in the near future.
I have a '65 US 'live axle' TR4A which was converted to RHD c1990. I think the loom was replaced then as it seems to fit in all the right places (but how can I tell for certain?) It has since been treated to an alternator, electronic ignition, a car radio etc. It appears that at least one of these modifications was not done 'properly' and, although everyting now works, it's all a bit 'Heath Robinson'.
My dilemma is whether to replace the whole lot with a new, custom made, loom - adding future provision for brighter lights, phone charger, sat-nav etc. or just to replace the post-1990 additions correctly.
The former I might attempt to do myself; the latter would certainly need a relaible auto-electrician.
Any thoughts, opinions or advice would be most gratefully received.
Thanks in advance.
Phil
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Some photos from earlier today - please let me know if Ive got any details wrong, or if you can fill in any blanks!
Cheers!
Phil
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I have the same Draper ball joint splitter and it makes light work of ball joint splitting. I considered hitting my TR hard with a hammer and decided agaist it - just in case I broke something!!
I also went for the soft option, and it's a great bit of kit ...but I did buy the pickle fork type as well, just in case!
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Thanks guys, I'll attack it with renewed vigour!
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Hi all,
Is there a knack to separating the outer tie rod end from the vertical link? ...I don't know what's going on in there and don't want to overdo it!
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Thanks for all your help and advice. The weights will be coming off at the next opportunity and in the meantime I'll keep looking for a local-ish balancing man. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Thanks again,
Phil
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I've just had all four tyres replaced by a local garage which was highly recommended by one of the glossy clasic car mags for their quality of service and experience of classic cars.
The fitter balanced the wheels on the usual balancing machine and whacked a load of weight onto each wheel. Previously there had been no weight on any wheel. The result is severe wheel wobble, the car is almost undrivable at about 60mph.
I don't want to go back to the fitter as I think he is totally incompetent, I don't think he could get the car running right in a month of Sundays - I should have left when he looked at the spinners and asked if I had a hammer 'to get these things off"! He then looked surprised when the first reached the end of the thread and crashed to the floor!
Two questions: (1) does anyone know a specialist in the Sussex/Horsham/Billingshurst area that I can rely on to do a proper job and (2) I'm tempted to take off the weights, would this be a mistake?
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Phil
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Where to start? The car has finally started, so thank you all for your ideas and assistance.
You were all sooo close, but the cigar ultimately goes to my father for this gem "it [the solenoid] is probably stuck, have you tried a hammer?". A couple of gentle prods and a sharp whack with the wooden handle of an old hammer and ...she turned over.
OK, so I had to jump start her off the Volvo, and yes, I need a new battery, but you all knew that already...
I have learned a lot this week...
... there is apparently something called "ghost voltage" or why a 12V battery can have 14V in it, and why it's "flat" even with 12.4V
... not to trace electrical circuits with a finger placed on each component whilst you ponder it's function, at least not while the wife is sitting in the car. To be fair, she "thought it might start that time".
... and that dad's brain has not yet turned entirely to mush, so the care home and my plans for a cruise will have to go on hold for a while
Thanks again.
Phil
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Hi John,
I think we may have briefly met at a garage in Cowfold (a while ago)? I was having a service on a BRG 4A. Anyhow, can't make Gurston, but will keep an eye out for you around Goodwood, and will make sure to say Hello.
Regards, and good luck,
Phil
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Guys,
Apologies for not coming back sooner, swamped with work this week! Lots of great advice, I 'll try and have a go at it over the weekend, and let you know how I get on.
Many thanks,
Phil
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I have a 65 4A with -ve earth, electronic ignition and ...no signs of life. There is 12.4V across the battery terminals, the ignition light lights up ...and dims when I turn the key, otherwise nothing. I suspect the starter solenoid (or the ignition switch?) or connections thereto. Where do I go from here? Is it possible to test the solenoid on the car?
Any help or suggestions greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Phil
TR4A electrics
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Hi all,
I have a couple of (probably) unrelated electrical problems and an almost complete lack of electrical know how...
1. An intermittent loss of the wiper / indicator / brake light circuit over the last few months. Typically everything is fine when I try to trace the fault, but not when I want to drive the car... At the weekend, I noticed (more by luck than judgement) that the circuit is fine with the ignition in the 'accessory' position, but fails in the 'on' position. A duff ignition switch?
2. More recently, the ignition light is staying on. I have a 45A alternator; 30/30 ammeter (which I have never seen move
). 12V+ across the battery terminals, rising with engine revs to about 13V (dodgy memory - needs checking). Lamp dims with revs., as you would expect. Dodgy alternator?
Any help would be most gratefully received.
Phil