kob666e
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Posts posted by kob666e
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Have made the decision to go with twin Weber 45 DCOE on my mildly tunned engine, polished head and high lift cam. Now comes the next problem! There are a world of suppliers out there all selling these carbs with the same choke and jet set-up. Can anyone advise on the correct choke/jet combination for my engine?
Most common set-up;
36mm choke
4.5 Aux venturi
F 16 Emulsion tube
145 Main jet
155 Air corrector
55F8 Idle jet
45 Pump jet
Justin....
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How obvious should it be to the ear when a TR is pinking?
Andy,
it will probably sound like a tin of nails!! Thought it was timing chain rattle until I got my timing right, made a hell of a difference in power output. Keep adjusting the timing and driving up a hill in top gear from 30 mph. After a few goes you will soon know what it sounds like.
Justin.
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Try some self tapping screws if you can't find the spire nuts which are probably already installed behind the trim.
Justin
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Shuey,
have had to put up with a rear end clunk since I finished rebuilding my 4A, replaced everything bar the drive shafts. Dealt with Surf 4 Autos, paid £145 plus postage, they look pretty good to me but have yet to fit them, another winter job! Also got Hardy Spicer UJs from jumblemaster,quite reasonable.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TRIUMPH-Stag-TR6-200...1QQcmdZViewItem
Justin
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Thanks for the links, saw the Revington Italia, looks good. Afraid I can't access Colins white 4A bebuild, but will persevere. Was hoping to put something together myself, pick up all the bits, have a contact to do the wiring. At the moment still swaying towards the Webers, just bolt and go (to an extent) and slightly more original (to a lesser extent!).
There's a long winter ahead of us yet......................
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Have been toying with the idea of putting twin 45 Webers on my 4A. Talking to a local rally enthusiast who has throttle bodies on his Civic has got me thinking, is it possible to fit the more reliable option of throttle bodies onto a 4A?
Justin
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Thanks for all that, primed the pump yesterday and it definitely made a difference. The fuel pump has to be the most unreliable component on a TR4, (I may have to eat my words now!) Firstly the fulcrum pin came out and left me stranded, then the sump filled with petrol (low oil pressure on starting got me alarmed!) and now those dammed little rubber buttony thing-a-me's are causing me grief!! Lost count on how many times I've ripped it out, I'm on my second rebuilt pump by now, may just opt for an electric pump, any comments/suggestions?
Justin...
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My rebuilt TR4A has a reluctance to start when left idle for more than about 24 hours, I think she goes into a state of hibernation! Maybe she is sulking or suffering from lack of attention, if only the blasted sun would come out for more than five minutes she'd get loads of attention!
Anyway, the starter spins the engine well with the help of a Transit battery, plenty of oooomph!
The problem seems to be lack of fuel, where does it go to while she sleeps? It takes a good 30 to 45 seconds of cranking before there is any sign of life (sounds familiar
), but once she fires everything is fine and has no problem starting again until parked up. Is the petrol evaporating? Doesn't smell like it. Do I need a non return valve to stop the juice flowing backwards? Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Justin.
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Had/still have the same sort of problem on occasions with my 4A. Only happens at start up and after a few dabs on the brake pedal, only it's not confined to the rear brakes. Have been told by a Jensen brake expert that the problem is servo and is quite common, I usually stop the car, shut down the engine and pump the brakes to release the vacuum build up....... and off I go! Has yet to reoccur once the car has warmed up.
Justin
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It's a personnal choice and up to the individual and the image you are trying to create. I ditched my 4.5j x 15 painted wires, with 185 Avon classic tyres, (fun if you enjoy unpredictable motoring!!) for a more meaty looking centre lock 5.5j x 15 Minilite with 195/15/65 soft rubber for dry weather use, you still maintain the approx. circumferance of the origional 155/15 tyre. And oh boy did it change the look and the handling immensely, and always a talking point when someone looks at the car. Also I was able to keep the splined hubs and a wire as a spare.
They cost about the same as chrome wires, are easier to keep clean and are made in the UK.
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Just a few days ago the off side mirror followed suit, when I met a truck travelling at the same speed as myself, it left the vehicle in what can only be described as a hurry, went into orbit and ended up on the verge amazingly in one piece but a bit scared.
Priceless.
Rob.
Sorry about the typo, I meant scarred, although it probably was scared ****less!!
Justin..
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I am looking for an alternative to Tex mirrors.
I inherited a pair of gleaming rectangular Tex mirrors with my TR4A and after 18 months of dedicated work I lovingly fitted them, they looked and worked, as well as a mirror can, wonderfully. Within two months, about the time it takes the plastic plinths on these mirrors to perish, the near side mirror came loose and soon ended up buried a bush!
Just a few days ago the off side mirror followed suit, when I met a truck travelling at the same speed as myself, it left the vehicle in what can only be described as a hurry, went into orbit and ended up on the verge amazingly in one peice but a bit scared. And yes the plinth was brittle with age (12 months!), cracked and unable to competently do the job it was intended for.
I know our roads (Ireland) are a bit rougher than the Tex test track but I cannot keep replacing the mirrors at this rate. Are there any other make of mirror that will fit the same holes as the Tex? Or should I put in a standing order for new mirrors?!!!
MInilites
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Centre lock minilites...................