kob666e
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Posts posted by kob666e
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Pretty sure the Jensen has unf to unc. If there are no other suggestions I'll have a look tomorrow.
Or you could try these lads: http://www.motalia.net/index.php?cPath=1_263_461
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Hi Mac ~
I used Wellseal between the cover and gasket but dry fitted the gasket to the head. No leaks!
Hope this helps?
Cheers ~
Tom.
+1
Fit gasket to the rocker cover first, apply a bit of sealant and then hold gasket in place until it has bonded (upside down with a bit of weight otherwise the gasket will 'walk')
The paper gaskets are fine when used with a sealant, I prefer Wellseal.
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Not sure if it's relevant but when the PO fitted the exhaust to my 4A they were a little short, they exited the car between the rear valance and the bumper, and the smell of fumes in the car was bad.
I fitted short tailpipe finishers to extend the exhaust past the bumper and that solved the problem.
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Get a machine shop to cut the centre out of a used spinner, you can gladly have mine but the postage will probably cost more than getting it done locally.
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My tuppence worth: I've no perspective of size but how about trying to push it out, plate on the bottom, strong bolt that will fit snugly inside, screw a nut fully on to bolt and then push it out by undoing the nut?
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I went for knock-on Minator minilites, easy replacement and kept a wire as a spare, to keep down the cost, rather than buy 5 bolt on minilites.
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Was also hoping for a drive over Christmas, but the roads were too busy:
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I have a Lucas L661 tucked neatly under the bumper:
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Namrick are very helpful if you ring them up and ask the length of the shank on a bolt, have done this several times when ordering and seem to remember did much the same when I replaced the trunnion bolt, as previous owner used bolts with too short a shank.
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I needed to shorten the front springs on the CV8 (ride height was way too high), took them to a coil spring expert where they shortened and 'scragged' the springs (don't ask!). Not expensive, about €100 for 4 springs, peace of mind because it was done by the people who knew what they are doing.
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Or contact The Chain Man http://www.the-chain-man.co.uk/products.html
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Soak it in diesel for a few weeks, way better than WD. (beaten to it!)
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Myles
As far as I know most cigar lighters are the same size more or less.
On my 4A I made a bracket that fits under the dash hard up again the H frame on the passenger side.
This keeps the cable for the GPS out of the way so you don't catch it when changing gear
Dave
I did likewise, although mounted onto bracket below the glove-box and out of sight, and left the redundant washer in place.
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+ 1 and a much better price than SC
Had bad experience with SC parts.
Bought a set from CCD 12 months ago and found him a pleasure to deal with, highly recommended. Can wait for the development of his power steering....
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I use Wuth cavity wax, both rattle can, for inside the doors and other intricate areas, and their compressor spray option.
It does not need to be heated, and with a sheet on the floor to catch drips, is easy to apply and does not cover everything in the vicinity.
Any that gets onto paintwork needs to be cleaned up with white spirit before it hardens.
http://www.shopwurthusa.com/wurthstorefront/Chemical-Product/Protective-Wax/Cavity
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Bought a Clarke CIR450B cordless 450 Nm at the beginning of the year, handy money (€150) but not very well made, you can feel the join of the two halve in the handle moving when it's under heavy load, but it's fine for occasional use, has plenty of battery life and reasonably quick charge. Don't think I would have changed the clutch in my 4x4 pick up as easily without it.
It's up to most jobs that my air impact wrench wouldn't do (not enough air!) but for the real stubborn stuff (16 years of dirt, grime and cow sh!te on the subframe) a 2' breaker bar gets it started .
I'm sure the top brands would be better, but for less than half their price the Clarke impact wrench is hard to beat. They also do a corded one for less than €100.
http://www.clarkedistributors.ie/index.
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If you are going to push on the nut turn it the other way so the flat part is taking the force, and keep going, had nearly 30 tons on a Jensen hub. And as been stated make sure the flange is properly supported, or you'll end up like Niall!
It has to come off one way or another, you can't stop now, in for a penny...in for a pound......
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This is all good stuff, I had not realised that the centre part could slide !
There are two sections to the adaptor with oil cooler, first part fits to the original filter head, next the sandwich plate and then the filter which tightens everything up.
Without the oil cooler there is only one section, which should be a tight fit onto the original filter head. The filter only has to be tight enough to seal itself.
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Tecalemit filter head:
Had a spin on filter kit with oil cooler that was very difficult to seal, the sandwich plate (where hoses were connected) would float until the filter was fitted and this was what tightened everything up. I was like King Kong trying to get the filter tight enough to seal!
I have now fitted a Moss kit, new O ring, bit of loctite, tighten the centre bolt up nicely, fit filter and no leaks, what a joy!
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I did come across uprated ones on the web some time ago, but I can't remember where.
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Wellseal on head gasket, applied to both surfaces, and yes the centre holes should be oval
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Remove the bolt holding the exhaust to gearbox, loosen the exhaust clamp holding the Y piece (if you have one) or any other clamps in that area. This should then give you enough room to twist the headers out of the way and use a timber wedge to hold them back.
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If you can get your hands on some Red-Kote: http://www.4secondsflat.com/Fuel_Tank_Sealer.html
Bought some a few years ago, but can't remember where. Also Moss's Slosh Sealer is much the same stuff.
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Fitted CV joint d/s and uprated hubs from CDD and feel much more confident with the handling, and no more worrying about UJs or rear hubs.
http://classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk/cats.asp?cID=4&carID=1
Sump bolts
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Front left corner is where mine weeps, and the front centre bolt which is very short (piece 37) http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-mod. Park it facing up hill
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I made a few oval washers to spread the load for half a dozen bolts at the front of the sump, also managed to whack out most of the distortion!
No matter what you do oil will still find it's way out of a Triumph....