Tinman
-
Content Count
64 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Tinman
-
-
Mike,
I use EP90, when I changed the rack gaitors I put EP90 in them this oil worked its way throu the rack
-
Hi James,
I have found that the best way to clean a rad out is to back flush it, also I have cleaned out cooling systems using 2% caustic solution although great care needs to be taken if you try this.
My own car the temp gauge will sit at 1/4 when not in traffic but stop start it shoots up to just over 3/4 and the kenlow fan seems to just about manage to keep there!!.
I recall being told that the type of anti freeze can cause problems but can't remember why or who told me could be something to do with the anti freeze in a ally stag engine? maybe the better informed on the forum could comment on this
Regards
-
Click or more of a lower pitched clonk? is it a single click with the transfer of load on over-run or click, click, click on a trailing throttle? If, as you describe, you really have satisfied yourself that everything in the drive train is OK, I would have another serious look at the diff mounts & the top cross member (the bit that holds the springs) using a good lever/pri bar, torch & a mirror (to look at the top of the cross member); cracks & broken diff mount pins can be difficult to spot with the diff in position. Failing that are you sure it’s not just backlash from a worn diff unit, have you checked the oil level? Are you sure the rear brake shoes & springs are correctly fitted/located?
[/quote
Gents,
Thanks for the advice I have re-checked the diff mountings and the pins for cracks etc along with the rear gearbox mounts, these do look a little suspect and have been put on the winter repair list.
As for the clonk/click on the over run I must now conclude that the halfshaft splines have a little wear in them especially the N/S. I cleaned the old grease off and re-packed with a heavy lithium grease this appears to have solved the problem as the clonk/click has now gone. I took the 6 for a serious flog round and no clonking or click, this may only be a tempory solution, I have two spare shafts that will be ready to fit over the winter. The splines on the half shafts are something that are over looked on service and I think maybe sometimes the wrong type of grease is also used
Anyway the Tinman and his beloved red6 are back beware over the back holiday cos we are going blow the dust off.
-
Having developed a clonk, loud click from the rear end when dipping the clutch or taking the lead foot off the gas I have investigated the problem.
I found every thing tight flange bolts, diff mounts, wheel nuts, shocks and conversion brackets etc, no sign of any thing in the drums/brakes, wheel bearings seem fine with no play, UJs fine both on the halfshafts and the prop I re-greased the UJs along with the spline on the prop shaft. The only thing that looked slightly worn where the rubber bushes on the rear anti roll bar so this was removed. Took the car out for test drive only to find that its still has the clonk/click.
Back to the drawing board checked the swing arm mounting bushes these are fine. I have stripped, cleaned and re-greased the halfshaft splines and hopefully if it ever stops raining I will test the car again tomorrow.
I am at a loss I can't understand why it clonks only on the over run? there is no noise when re-accelerating
any ideas or suggestions would be welcome before I scrap the damn thing
I have a love/ hate thing with this car Its no wonder leyland went bust
-
Hi Tinman, ive never even heard of nippon denso plugs ,i presume their is a number denoteing which plug is suitable, as far as i know mine is a standard head and camsaft together with a standard exhaust,do you stillthink it may make
a difference or are they mainly used for uprated engine like yours.
John m
John,
I use Denso Iridium Power IW16. You can read up on http://www.carsparkplugs.com/denso. There are many other sites on the net that cover this subject also.
They are not cheap but I feel they have made a great improvement to my car.
I see no reason why the can't be used in a standard engine set up to good advantage. I would have never believed that a spark plug could make so much difference.
Tin
-
Hi John,
If you think the plugs are causing your problem try a set of Nippon Denso plugs. I run a gas flowed head sports exhaust and a fast road cam. I found my engine ran smoother and slightly increase fuel ecconomy when I used Denso plugs
-
Hi Tin. It's really not a good idea to hijack someone else’s thread, particularly a live one, it causes confusion & can be upsetting for the OP;
start your own thread & you will get a better response.
Richard,
well I'm so sorry you feel I was "highjacking a thread"
As I have a similar problem I intended to add useful contributions as well as hopefully gain useful information. When I have found the problem with my own car even if it means a total strip, insection and rebuild of the back end I will be very happy to post my finding and experience to help anyone who cares to read it.
Simon apologies if you feel I have highjacked your thread,
watch this space I hope to have sorted my clonking by the weekend
regards
Tin
-
Hi all,
My 6 has developed a clonk or a loud click when I change gear, dip the clutch or as soon as I lift mt foot off the throttle.
I do not suspect the diff mounts as I replaced them over the winter.
any further ideas or advice would be good and hopefully save me time and effort before I start ripping the back end down
Tin
-
Well actually I'm moving my insurance to Towergate there cover is slightly better provided they have no problems with the agreed value
I totally agree with you as an existing customer my old company should have made sure they offered me their best price not tried to rip me off.
But it does pay to shop around We do live in rip off Britain after all
-
Hi All,
I received my insurance renewal today and got the shock of my life at the price, so decided to call Towergate for a quote which came out 60 quid less. Phoned my company back and told them I didn't want to renew because I'd had a lot better quote within the hour they had phoned me back and beat Towergates price.
So chaps it pays to shop about saved my self sixty quid or about two tanks of petrol.
-
Hi Eli,
I run period wolfrace slot mags on my six I use 1/2 inch spacers front and 1/4 inch rear. The front spacer stop any contact of the tyres on the body work lock to lock!!!
As for polishing if yours are in a dull or bad condition when you get them start off with something like 1200 grit wet & dry and metal polish to break the oxidization and finish with auto sol metal polish to get the shine. I usually polish mine with auto sol and then use auto glym wax to stop any oxidization of the ally.
I had the wheel nuts made by a friend who owns a leathe Stainless steel hex bar machined, drilled and tapped.
The wheels look great but take some elbow grease to keep looking shiney
-
Hi Harry,
I run twin SUs with gas flowed head and higher compression ratios I too get run on not quite to the same extent as you discribe but run on never the less. As suggested try running a colder spark plug.
If you find anyone that supplies fuel cut off units for SU carbs please let me know because I could do with a couple
-
Hi All,
I've just got my car back from the paint shop and I must say it looks fantastic They have done a stunning job superb
anyway I asked what polish to use and they recommended Auto glym or a polish I've never heard called Race Glaze.
As to the time after paint before waxing I can wax it as soon as I need to which will be ina week or so when its all back together.
Oh happy days bring on global warming and a scorching summer
-
Hi,
not sure about the spare wire it could be the original that the luminition replaced just a guess. As for your intermittant ignition problem I had the same thing happening on an old VW it took me ages to solve it.
It turned out to be a faulty Ignition coil change it never had any more trouble
-
Hi Paul,
I don't think you can get the carb positions wrong due to the fact that the throttle linkage fit between the two carbs.
The "L" & "R" I think defines which side the throttle linkage is mounted on the carb left or right side of the carb body
Hope this helps
-
Hi Paul,
like Graham it took me several years to find my TR6 in the condition I wanted and at the budget I had, I was very lucky to find a car in the condition that mine was, Having said that I usually spend around £500 a year on maintenence and improvements,
If your spending your hard earned pennies make sure you get a good inspection and take someone with you who knows what to look for in a TR6
-
Hi Tinman,
Just a littlte point about Towergate and the Register scheme - they include UK and European Breakdown cover in the price - whereas it seems from your note that Mr Flux seems to charge extra for it!
Also, as Ian Cornish pointed out, you have the option of 25% or 50% on top of the agreed value as a Reinstatement option, which is pretty handy if you have to rebuild the car and is, I believe, not offered by any othe Insurer.
Geoff
Thanks for that My insurance is due soon, think I'll give Towergate a ring even though I can't make it to Le Mans this year and I need to up the value of my car as its have a bare metal repaint as I post this and its costing me a Kidney
-
Hi,
My car is also fitted with oil cooler and electric fan, When motoring along the temp runs at normal in stop start traffic the temp soon rises and the fan cuts in. The normal temp depends on what stat you have fitted summer or winter stat?
As to the oil pump not sure Rimmers or Moss
-
For me I can't fault Adrian Flux, I fessed up to all the modification I have on my 6 and they did not have a problem with them. They had no problem with agreed value just asked for pictures. Also they arranged european brake down cover at a very competitive rate which as it turned out was first class when a front wheel bearing let go in france last year on the way home from Le Mans,
I guess the cost of insurance is really just a post code lottery so just shop around
regards
-
Hi,
Seems about right to me as its costing me about 6 times that for the whole car. after I have stripped it ready.
Make sure you check out the people you are trusting to do the work, take a look at some examples of there work, ask around to find people who have jobs done before.
Nothing wrong with cash if you trust the people you are paying.
I should have my car back in a couple of weeks cash job I checked out the paint shop they come highly recommended
-
Your car looks sweet jobster and its interesting that it has never had any body/chassis repairs
We could say that if spark plugs or light bulbs are changed then the car is no longer original but that would be stupid and extreme.
My own car is far form original due to the mods to the suspension and engine etc but like jobsters car it has never had replacement panels or repairs to the chassis Although it will be going for repaint next week
It appears from the number of replys that cars such as Jobsters are very rare indeed.
I'm not a purist if a replacement part keeps a classic car on the road and looking good then I'm all for doing it
I was just interested how many 6's have never had major body chassis repairs, When considering the weather and the amount of salt used on the roads I'm not supprised that there are not many
regards
-
Hi all,
just a point of interest who's TR6's have never had any replacement body panels or chassis repaired or welded due the old ferous beetle ?
I have a passion for classic cars the TR6 being my first love/hate, But how many first class cars are totally original.
Weld repair the tub replace the wings, weld or replace the chassis sure these cars look great but can they be classed as original.
Looking forward to your comments
-
Thanks for the advice guys Think your right a new screen is the way to go
regards
-
Hi All,
As I've just managed to crack the screen on my TR6 I'm in need of a replacement anyone who can help please feel free. I'm willing to travel reasonable distance to collect
Is it possible to buy new screens if so form where ?
The love hate relationship I have with my 6 has just taken a turn for the worse, At the moment I could save my money and brake the heap of junk up for spare parts.
Its no wonder Leyland and Triumph went bust how the hell they managed to assemble these cars on a production line is beyond me.
Fed up and depressed
Heat Shield
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi Gents,
very interesting, I to have looking at ways of getting cool air to the air filters/intakes on my carbs.
I guess you use the fan at low speeds to induct cool air But does this not cause any problems with ram air effect? or air swirling around the filters causing fluctuations in the mixture?
To prevent the effect of ram air action on my twin carb set up using K&N filters I have blanked off the front third of the filters, this I find helps with the ram air at speed but does not solve the problem of inducting cool air at low speeds.
What or how do you control at what speed the fan kicks in? Where did you get the fan from?
regards