[TR6 hammering sound from engine...]

Big end bearing was the issue, I assumed due to a dry start or blockage etc..?

 

I had everything out in bits and the crank was going to need yet another regrind so i decided to bite the bullet and spend some cash on improving the bottom end.

 

Racetorations supplied a new steel crank, lightened conrods, new cam, flywheel..etc... On re-assembly it was obvious all was not right as the crank was very tight could not easily be turned by hand so they checked it with a blank shaft of the correct diameter which had the same issue revealing my underlying problem was the block was very slightly warped/twisted. This was perhaps due to a previous overheating episode before my time. So all apart again and the block was line boared plus installed cam bearings.

Also had Racetorations fit their bottom end brace kit, which will further strengthen the bottom end.

 

I plan to get it set up on rolling road next month and will let you know how she does.

 

FIngers Crossed!

Steve.

[TR6 hammering sound from engine...]

Rather late to the party here, but one observation:

You mention that #2 had been sleeved previously- that says to me there's been a previous accident of a similar nature, only more severe.

I'd be looking very closely at the crankshaft oilways & their alignment.

If you would like it inspected, I am half-an-hour away. PM if so.

Regards

SPMPW

Hi sorry i missed the offer of coming to have a look when i first read your post, I would really appreciate your input and will PM you.

Cheers Steve

[TR6 hammering sound from engine...]

Rather late to the party here, but one observation:

You mention that #2 had been sleeved previously- that says to me there's been a previous accident of a similar nature, only more severe.

I'd be looking very closely at the crankshaft oilways & their alignment.

If you would like it inspected, I am half-an-hour away. PM if so.

Regards

SPMPW

Thanks, i know the history of the #2 cylinder: I had it rebored when I last had the engine out about 8 years ago, which exposed a small defect/pitting so we sleeved that cylinder. I didnt however change/check the oil pump, live and learn!

 

Engine is out now and the crank is being reground and balanced next week so hopefully back on the road soon.

 

Just in case i'm about to make a similar error on this rebuild.... is there anything else you guys suggest i do whilst i have the block stripped down?

 

Regards

Steve

[TR6 hammering sound from engine...]

Im now thinking the loss of Oil pressure may be the cause of the BE failure rather than a side effect.

[TR6 hammering sound from engine...]

Hi There,

 

Based on what you guys have been suggeting, below is some more background that may help:

The car is a NA imported in 94, i bought it as an unfinished project 10 years ago, about 7 years ago

1. Engine completely stripped and rebored and #2 was sleeved, new pistons.

2. Crank ground and balanced and mild fast road cam new push rods and follows.

3. Head skimmed to increase compression 10:1 (74 CF engine), new valve seats and polishing.

 

Ive used it sporadicall doing only a 3k miles before i took off the road last sept

The engine probably went a max of 4 weeks without turning over enough to get the oil pressure up.

 

I decided to switch to Emerald EFI instead of the webers, really impressed with the kit, its transformation of the cars drivabilty in the 30 miles i have completed.

 

I finished the new fuel system last month The engine has done 10 miles with the car in gear on the ramps ( I was checking my sticky clutch was sorted before i put the interior back together) so no load and very few revs and at least a couple of hours on tick over whilst getting the basic setup right.

 

So i think it had a reasionably sensible run in ahead of the failure.

 

On the question of oil pressure, it normally holds good pressure on tick over but i noticed by the time i had limped home it was down through the floor on tickover.

 

Im glass half full.. now im over the initial depression.. at least it will give me an opportunity to get the engine and head finished off, as the budget didnt allow last time round.

 

 

Will probably have the engine out next week so will make sure i update you with any other findings on this thread, on that note thanks again all for your helpful pointers!

 

Steve

[TR6 hammering sound from engine...]

Thanks everyone for your help, I have arranged for the chap that rebored the engine and reground the crank for me a few years back to come out and have a look whilst the engine is still in to see what he thinks about the bottom end, from the state of the BE shell is suspect the crank will need some attention.

 

Just when you think your back on the road

[TR6 hammering sound from engine...]

checked big ends on number 2 cylinder have looked healthier...

[TR6 hammering sound from engine...]

No. There are 2 TWs. Both half moon and sit opposite sides of the rear crankshaft bearing, just as yours are .....correctly fitted. There is no bottom half.

ahh thank you for that, I guess im going to be missing the internals of big/little end or main bearings judging by the debris in the sump.

[TR6 hammering sound from engine...]

I assume there should have been a bottom half to my thrust washers and not just the top half?

[TR6 hammering sound from engine...]

dont realyy know what im looking for in terms of wear.

[TR6 hammering sound from engine...]

A couple of photos,

 

[TR6 hammering sound from engine...]

so I think im getting closer to the knocking issue, I took the sump off and found lots of bits of shedded metal in the bottom!!! which i assume is the remains of my thrust washers rather than a bearing? both top halves of the thrust washers are still in place. Im keen to know if this means something major or has anyone had this happen and not seriously damaged anyother bits? Also what sequence would you suggest I should be working to for further inspections.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Steve

[TR6 hammering sound from engine...]

Hi Steve,

 

Nobodies asked, is the knocking synchronised in time with crankshaft revolution or much faster (likely camshaft ).

 

Micky

The noise is higher pitched and fast, in time with tapets at tick over. As you go up the revs it slows to more like crank speed and becomes a much louder banging noise.

[TR6 hammering sound from engine...]

Thanks fo the suggestions, hopefully something simple!

[TR6 hammering sound from engine...]

Loads of great advice thanks all,

 

i just had it ticking over with the rocker covers off and its best described as a loud tapping @ 600rpm which turns into a proper hammering noise at anything above 1500rpm. i had hoped it was just a head gasket as suggested but the noise is too severe and metalic me thinks for it not to be the bottom end.

 

I guess the best plan of attack is to get the sump opened up and hope nothing horrible falls out!

 

regards

Steve

[TR6 hammering sound from engine...]

Thanks, I removed the rocker cover and ran on tick over, nothing appearers broken or sticking.

[TR6 hammering sound from engine...]

Fuel is fresh, its run fine in the garage on the ramps it misfired a little due to the set up not being perfect but it was only today 20mins into its first road test that the issue really started.

[TR6 hammering sound from engine...]

 

Hi All,

 

After 6 months off the road fitting EFI amongst other things, I took the car out for a test drive /shake down today ahead of its rolling road next week. The standard tr6 map that was installed worked ok to get fired up but the timing was definitely a little out.

 

 

After 10-15mins i put my foot down and got a tapping/rattle at 4000 revs onwards getting quite shrill at above 5000 rpm as soon as I backed off it eased but I decided to limp home and over the next 10 miles it got progressively worse. It now sounds like i have an angry dwarf with a hammer in the engine above 3000 revs and a fairly loud clear tapping noise on tick over.

 

Something has clearly gone quite wrong in the engine but i wanted some help to try and establish whether its head or bottom end.

 

I have checked compression which was +/- 5psi 170PSI on 1,3,4,5,6 and 140psi on 2. all spark plugs where light brown and similar.

 

Regards

Steve

 

 

 

[Respray recomendations]

Hi,

 

Im looking for recomendations of a good bodyshop to prep and spray my Trt6, its currently red ontop of red ontop of the original magenta and i have decided on silver/grey so probably needs quite a bit of prep work!

 

Im nr harrogate North Yorks, any recomendations welcome.

 

Thanks

Steve

[Should I invest inEFI?]

yorkshire Triumphs, they use someone local for the rolling road dont know who. Dont get me wrong they did a great job on ALL the other stuff its just its not running great and they did say they thought my webers were not the best type for the TR6 ( although i did buy them as a TR6 kit which is a little frustrating!).

 

THanks for your help as always.

 

Steve

[Should I invest inEFI?]

Hi there, I have triple webers on my 6. Its been set up twice now on a rolling road and still has massive flat/ dead spots at low revs. I'm seriously considering the revington efi conversion, it's very expensive and I don't want to throw good money after bad but I have no plans to sell my car so if it makes a massive improvement to the drivabilty Might be worth the investment?

 

Really interested in getting your thoughts, Am I giving up too soon on the webers? Has anyone done the same?

 

Thanks

Steve

 

[rear shock conversion and tyre sizes]

Guys i REALLY appreciate the comments,below is the plan:

 

SPAX all round

 

Racetorations rear suspension bracket conversion

 

195/65/15 Brand TBC

 

Shiny new 5 spoke 6j 15 revolutions

 

Slightly lowered springs : Front 6.50" Rear 8.65 - both 420LBS

 

With poly bushes where required.

 

Any concerns shout out, please !

 

Thanx

Steve

[rear shock conversion and tyre sizes]

Hello All,

 

After two years off my TR6 project I'm delighted to be back on it! but before get my spanners out i thought i better start picking your brains, i have made too many mistakes in the past trusting what Mr Moss told me I should buy to improve the performance of my TR.

 

Im about to embark on the supension/ brakes and wheels. The car set up is completely standard currently, although one side appears 3/4 of an inch higher than the other at the front? I would like to improve the handling without destroying the ride, can you please give me your considered opinions on what lengths to go to?

 

Im considering:

1. Rear shock conversion

2. Polyurethane bushes

3. Slightly firmer/lower Springs

4. Revolution 5 spoke alloys 6/15

5. 205/70/15 tyres

 

What would you advise before i go rushing off with my credit card!

 

Steve

[correct rocker gap ?]

Tim, the clearance was in the OP

 

Inlet Clearance: 0.022"

Exhaust Clearance: 0.024"

 

Sounds like that concurs with your numbers too.

 

Stan

 

 

WOW what a difference!! that has made to they way she runs

 

Thanks guys.

 

Steve

[correct rocker gap ?]

Hi All, I have fitted a fast road cam and wanted to double check the correct gap between the valves and rocker gear... i seem to remeber that standard gap setting are not enough and wanted to get some other advice.

 

Cam details from the website are as follows if it helps:?

 

Inlet Timing: 37-63

 

Exhaust Timing: 74-28

 

Duration: 280 degrees

 

Lift: 0.288"

 

Installation Figure: 103 degrees

 

Inlet Clearance: 0.022"

 

Exhaust Clearance: 0.024"

 

Power Band: 2500-6000

 

 

Thanks

Steve